^sity  of  California 
bhern  Regional 
[brary  Facility 


SOUTHERN  BRANUin, 

(UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA, 

LIBRARY, 

ILDS  ANGELES,  CALIF. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/documentsrelatinOOjeffiala 


©dcummts 

Relating  to 
THE    PURCHASE  &  EXPLORATION 

OF 

LOUISIANA 


DOCUMENTS 

RELATING   TO 

THE  PURCHASE 


EXPLORATION  OF 

I.  The  Limits  and  Bounds  oi Lou- 
isiana. By  Thomas  Jefferson. 
II.  The  Exploration  of  the  Redy 
the  Blacky  and  the  JVashita  Riv- 
ers. By  William  Dunbar. 

Printed  from  the  original  Manuscripts  in  the  Library 
of  the  American  Philosophical  Society  and  by  direc- 
tion of  the  Society's  Committee  on  Historical 
Documents. 

BOSTON  and  NEfF  TORK:  Published  by 
Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Company.  1904. 


.  U  L  i:  >.[ 


COPYRIGHT  1904 

BY  THX  AMERICAN  PHILOSOFHICAI.  SOCIETY  HELD  AT  PHILADELPHIA 

FOR  PROMOTING  USEFUL  KNOWLEDGE 

ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 


Published  June  1904 


FIVE  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  COPIES  PRINTED 


NUMBER     If-  If  O 


■J 


351 
[    I    ] 


PUBLISHERS'    NOTE. 


THE  two  documents  now  first  printed  in  this  vol- 
ume have  been  for  nearly  a  century  in  the  cus- 
tody of  the  American  Philosophical  Society.  The  first 
is  a  paper  written  by  Thomas  Jefferson  while  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  which  gives  a  summary  of 
the  various  claims  of  France,  Spain,  and  England  to 
territory  in  the  Mississippi  Valley,  and  lays  down  the 
boundaries  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase.  The  original 
of  this  paper,  in  Mr.  Jefferson's  own  hand,  was  de- 
posited by  him  in  the  archives  of  the  Society  in  Phila- 
delphia, where  it  still  remains.  The  second  Is  the 
manuscript  known  to  historians  as  the  Dunbar  Jour- 
nal, the  importance  of  which  has  been  generally  re- 
cognized, though  but  few  have  had  access  to  it.  The 
Journal  was  kept  by  William  Dunbar  of  Natchez, 
on  a  voyage  of  exploration  which,  in  company  with 
Dr.  George  Hunter,  he  undertook  by  direction  of  the 
President  in  1804,  as  a  part  of  Mr.  Jefferson's  states- 
manlike plan  to  survey  the  vast  new  territory  just 
coming  into  the  possession  of  the  United  States.  This 
manuscript  was  presented  to  the  Society  by  Daniel 
Parker,  Adjutant  and  Inspector-General,  U.  S.  A.,  on 
the  1 8th  of  July,  18 17. 

The  Journal  of  William  Dunbar  is  comparable  to 
the  more  famous  Lewis  and  Clark  Journals,  which 
were  likewise  placed  in  the  keeping  of  the  American 
Philosophical  Society  at  the  instance  of  Mr.  Jef- 
ferson, and  like  them  is  a  contribution  of  the  first 


[2] 

order  to  the  history  of  the  earliest  exploration  of  the 
country  west  of  the  Mississippi.  Dunbar  himself  was 
a  man  of  note,  and  has  already  been  honored  in  his 
native  state  as  "  the  first  scientist  of  Mississippi." 
Born  at  Thunderton  near  Elgin,  Scotland,  a  younger 
son  of  Sir  Archibald  Dunbar,  he  united,  as  so  many 
eminent  men  among  his  countrymen  have  done, 
practical  and  scientific  abilities  of  a  high  order.  He 
settled  in  America  in  1771,  and  became  a  successful 
planter.  Later  he  held  important  trusts  under  the 
Federal  government,  was  a  correspondent  of  Thomas 
Jefferson,  Sir  William  Herschel,  David  Rittenhouse, 
and  other  famous  men,  and  made  many  contribu- 
tions of  importance  to  the  scientific  interests  of  the 
country,  then  in  their  infancy. 

In  addition  to  the  Journal  and  the  paper  already 
mentioned  on  the  boundaries  of  Louisiana,  the  vol- 
ume includes  the  letter  from  Mr.  Jefferson  transmit- 
ting his  manuscript  to  the  American  Philosophical 
Society,  with  some  mention  of  the  circumstances 
under  which  it  was  written,  and  an  extract  from  Mr. 
Jefferson's  message  to  Congress,  transmitting  a  sum- 
mary of  the  Dunbar  Journal.  The  portrait  of  Mr. 
Jefferson  is  from  the  original  by  Thomas  Sully,  which 
now  hangs  in  the  rooms  of  the  American  Philosophi- 
cal Society  in  Philadelphia.  That  of  Mr.  Dunbar  is 
from  the  portrait  at  "  The  Forest,"  Dunbar's  estate 
in  Mississippi.  The  map  is  a  photo-lithograph  from 
the  copper-plate  engraving  of  Nicholas  King's  great 
map  in  the  War  Department  at  Washington. 

In  printing  these  rare  documents,  care  has  been 
taken  to  preserve  the  peculiarities  of  spelling  and  the 
quaint  abbreviations  which  were  characteristic  of  the 
writing  of  the  time. 


[  3  ] 

The  acknowledgments  of  the  publishers  are  due 
to  the  American  Philosophical  Society  for  its  cour- 
tesy in  permitting  the  use  of  the  manuscripts  here 
printed,  and  also  of  the  portrait  of  Jefferson  by  Sully ; 
to  the  Secretary  of  the  Society,  Dr.  I.  Minis  Hays, 
for  his  assiduous  care  in  the  difficult  task  of  com- 
paring proof,  verifying  names,  etc. ;  and  to  Mr.  Wil- 
liam Dunbar  Jenkins  for  the  copy  which  he  has 
kindly  furnished  of  the  portrait  of  Dunbar. 

Boston^  May  9,  1904. 


The 


LIMITS 

and 

BOUNDS 


OF 


Eoutsitana 


By  Thomas  Jefferson 


mWml 


[7] 


To  PETER  S.  Du  PONCEAU, 

Corresponding  Secretary  of  the  Literary  and 
Historical  Committee  of  the  American 
Philosophical  Society. 

Monticello,  Dec.  30,  '17. 


Dear  Sir 

^       ^       i^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

^ 

*       ^       ^ 

<^ 

^ 

i^ 

^ 

^ 

1N0W  send  you  the  remains  of  my  Indian  vo- 
cabularies y  some  of  which  are  perfect.  I  send 
with  them  the  fragments  of  my  digest  of  them, 
which  were  gathered  up  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
where  they  had  been  strewed  by  the  plunderers  of  the 
trunk  in  which  they  were.  These  will  merely  shew  the 
arrangement  I  had  given  the  vocabularies,  according 
to  their  affinities  &  degrees  of  resemblance  or  dissi- 
militude. If  you  can  recover  Cap  Lewis' s  collection, 
they  will  make  an  important  addition,  for  there  was 
no  part  of  his  instructions  which  he  executed  more 
fully  or  carefully,  never  meeting  with  a  single  In- 
dian of  a  new  tribe,  without  making  his  vocabulary 
the  ri  object.  What  Professor  Adelung  mentions  of 
the  Empress  Catherine' s  having  procured  many  vo- 


[  8  ] 

cabulartes  of  our  IndianSy  is  correct.  She  applied  to 
M.  de  la  Fayette y  who,  thro  the  aid  of  Geni  Wash- 
ingtoUy  obtained  several :  but  I  never  learnt  of  what 
particular  tribes.  The  great  works  of  Pallas  being 
rare  I  will  mention  that  there  are  two  editions  of  it 
the  one  in  2.  volsy  the  other  in  ^.  vols  ^?  in  the  library 
I  ceded  to  Congress ^  which  may  be  consulted.  But  the 
Professor  s  acc^.  of  the  supposed  Mexican  MS.  is 
quite  erroneous,  nor  can  I  conceive  thro'  whom  he  can 
have  recieved  his  information.  It  has  probably  been 
founded  on  an  imperfect  knolege  of  the  following  fact. 
Soon  after  the  acquisition  of  Louisiana,  Gov^  Clai- 
borne found,  in  a  private  family  there,  a  MS.  jour- 
nal kept  (I  forget  by  whom^  but  by  a  confidential 
oficer  of  the  French  government,  proving  exactly  by 
what  connivance  between  the  agents  of  the  Compa- 
gnie  d'  Occident,  &  the  Spaniards,  these  last  smuggled 
settlements  into  Louisiana,  as  far  as  Assinais,  Adais 
etc.  for  the  purpose  of  covering  the  contraband  trade 
of  the  company.  Claiborne  being  afraid  to  trust  the 
original  by  mail,  without  keeping  a  copy,  sent  it  on 
after  being  copied.  It  arrived  safe  and  was  deposited 
by  me  in  the  ofiice  of  state.  He  then  sent  me  the  copy. 
On  the  destruction  of  the  ofice  at  Washington  by  the 
British,  apprehending  the  original  might  be  involved 
in  that  destruction,  I  sent  the  copy  to  Col°  Monroe, 
then  Secretary  of  State,  with  a  request  to  return  it, 
if  the  original  was  safe,  &  to  keep  it,  if  not.  I  have 
heard  no  more  of  it.  My  intention  was,  &  is,  if  it  is 
returned  to  me,  to  deposit  it  with  your  Committee,  for 


[9] 

safe  keeping  or  publication.  While  on  the  subject  of 
Louisiana^  I  have  thought  I  had  better  commit  to 
you  also  an  historical  Memoir  of  my  own  respecting 
the  important  question  of  it's  limits.  When  we  first 
made  the  purchase,  we  knew  little  of  it's  extent, 
having  never  before  been  interested  to  enquire  into  it. 
Possessing  then  in  my  library  every  thing  respecting 
America  which  I  had  been  able  to  collect  by  unre- 
mitting researches,  during  my  residence  in  Europe 
particularly,  and  generally  thro'  my  life,  I  availed 
myself  of  the  leisure  of  my  succeeding  autumnal  re- 
cess from  Washington,  to  bring  together  every  thing 
which  my  collection  furnished  on  the  subject  of  it's 
boundary.  'The  result  was  the  Memoire  I  now  send 
you,  copies  of  which  were  furnished  to  our  Ministers 
at  Paris  and  Madrid,  for  their  information  as  to 
the  extent  of  territory  claimed  under  our  purchase. 
The  New  Orleans  MS.  afterwards  discovered,  fur- 
nished some  valuable  supplementary  proofs  of  title. 

I  defer  writing  to  the  Secretary  at  war  respecting 
the  observations  of  Longitude  &  Latitude  by  Cap'. 
Lewis,  until  I  learn  from  you  whether  they  are  re- 
covered, and  whether  they  are  so  compleat  as  to  be 
susceptible  of  satisfactory  calculation.  I  salute  you 
with  great  esteem  and  respect. 

Th:  Jefferson 


[ "  ] 


A  Chronological  Series  of  facts 
relative  to  iLouiStaua* 

1673.   OPAIN  declares  war  against  France. 
>^  4.   Russers  Mod.  Eur.  68. 

Joliet,  an  inhabitant  of  Quebec,  &  the 
Jesuit  Marquette  descended  from  Can- 
ada down  the  Missisipi  to  the  Arkan- 
sas in  33°.  &  returned  to  Canada.  8. 
Rayn.  158.  Hennepin  N.  D.  293. 
1675.  LaSalle  goes  to  France  to  sollicit  au- 
thority to  explore  the  Misipi.  Joutcl 
xvii. 

1678.  The  peace  of  Nimezuen.    4.  Russ.  92. 
LaSalle  returned  from  France  to  Canada 

with  Tonti  to  undertake  to  explore 
the  Misipi.    Joutel  xviii. 

1679.  He  builds  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the 

Miami  of  the  lake.    Hennepin  Nouv. 
Decouvertes.  171. 

1680.  Jan.   He  builds  a  fort  on  the  river  Illi- 

nois.   Hennep.  N.  D.  223.    Called  it 
Crevecoeur. 
Feb.  29.    Hennepin  with   2.  men  leave 
the  Illinois  to  descend  the  Misipi  in  a 


[    -2] 

bark  canoe.  Hennep.  N.D.  228.  241. 
Visits  the  Arcansas  258.  The  Taensas 
263.  Reaches  the  sea.  272.  Returns  to 
the  Illinois  294.  349.  Nouv.  voyage 
96.  I.  Du  Pratz.  4. 

1 68 1.  La  Salle  visits  fort  Crevecoeur  &  leaves 

a  garrison  there  of  15.  or  16.  men. 
Tonti.  147. 

1682.  La  Salle  &  Tonti  went  down  the  Misipi 

&  named  the  country  Louisiana.  He 
went  to  the  mouths  of  the  Misipi,  ob- 
served their  latitude,  &  returned  to 
Canada.  Joutel  xvii.  xx.  Tonti  153.  i. 
Du  Pratz  5.  2.  Dumont  258.  says  in 
1679. 
They  build  a  fort,  called  Prudhomme, 
in  the  Chickasaw  country  60.  leagues 
below  Ohio. 

1683.  Tonti    155.   Reach   the  ocean   Apr.   7. 

1683.  lb.  191.  They  have  60.  persons 
in  their  company.  Set  out  on  their  re- 
turn Apr.  II.  1683.  lb.  196. 

Soon  after  this  some  Canadians,  enticed  by 
the  flattering  accounts  of  the  country, 
went  &  settled  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Misipi,  &  on  the  coast.  2.  Dum.  260. 

1684.  Spain  declares  war  against  France,  but 

concludes  at  Ratisbon  a  truce  of  20. 
years.  4.  Rus.  141. 


[  '3] 

Jul.  24.  La  Salle  sails  from  Rochelle  with 
4.  vessels  to  seek  the  mouth  of  the 
Misipi  by  sea.  Joutel  2.  Tonti  140. 
He  had  with  him  1 00.  souldiers  &  of- 
ficers, in  all  280.  persons.  Hennepin 
Nouveau  Voyage.  12. 
1685.  Feb.  18.  La  Sale  landed  in  the  bay  of  S! 
Bernard,  or  S!  Louis.  Joutel  32.  i. 
Dupratz  6.  Tonti  245.  2.  Dum.  259 
Builds  a  fort  there.  Tonti  245.  276. 
Left  100.  men  there  Hen.  N.V.  23. 
130.  persons.  Joutel  45. 

Apr.  22.  He  sets  out  with  20.  men  to 
seek  a  new  place.  Tonti.  249. 

June.  He  makes  a  2^  settlement  fur- 
ther up  the  river.  70.  persons  go  to  it. 
Joutel  49. 

July.  They  abandon  the  first  fort  &  go  to 
the  2*^.  Joutel.  51.  Called  it  and  the 
neighboring  bay  S!  Louis.  Joutel  54. 

Tonti  descends  the  Misipi  with  40.  men 
to  meet  LaSale.  Tonti  220.  recon- 
noitres the  coast  20.  leagues  East  and 
West  of  the  mouth.  On  the  iour  de 
Paques  (Easter)  they  set  out  on  their 
return.  222. 

Tonti  builds  a  house  on  the  river  Arkansa 
&  leaves  10.  Frenchmen  there.  Tonti 
225.  Joutel  says  6.  men,  4  of  whom 


[  h] 

afterwards  returned  to  Canada.  Joutel 
151.  This  becomes  permanent.  226.  i . 
Dupr.  6.  and  is  afterwards  included  in 
Law's  grant,  who  settled  it  with  Ger- 
mans in  1 71 9.  2  Dum.  68. 

1 686.  Apr.  22.  LaSale  sets  out  for  Illinois  by 

land.  Hennepin  N.V.  39.  but  returns 
to  Fort  Louis.  lb.  63. 

1687.  Jan.  7.  He  sets  out  again  with  20  men. 

Henn.  N.  V.  67.  Is  murdered.  Joutel 
99.  Henn.  N.V.  'j'j. 

LaSale's  2f  fort  at  S*  Louis  is  afterwards 
abandoned.  Tonti  329.  Coxe.  39. 

After  the  death  of  LaSale,  Cavelier  his 
brother,  with  7.  men,  set  out  for  Can- 
ada. Joutel  132. 

July.  They  find  the  house  on  the  Ar- 
kansa  built  by  Tonti  with  only  2.  men 
remaining  in  it.  Jout.  151.  They 
leave  one  of  their  company  there. 
157.  They  strike  the  Misipi.  Joutel 

158. 

Dec.  3.  Tonti  sets  out  from  the  Illinois, 
&  descends  the  Misipi  a  2^  time.  Tonti. 
317.  Finds  LaSale's  2*!  settlement  broke 
up.  329.  Finds  at  the  Coroas  2.  of  the 
7.  French  men  who  had  separated 
.  from  Cavelier  after  the  death  of  La- 
Sale.  331.  Returns  to  Illinois.  331. 


[  '5  ] 

1689.  War  commenced  by  Spain  against  France. 
4.  Russel.  228. 

1696.  Spain  established  a  post  at  Pensacola.  9. 

Reynal.  128. 

1697.  Sep.  20.  Treaty  of  Ryswick  4.   Russell 

248. 

1698.  D'Hiberville  discovers  the  mouth  of  the 

Misipi.  by  sea.  2.  Dum.  260. 
He  is  made  Governor.  2.  Dum.  260. 

He  establishes  a  colony  at  Mobile,  & 
Isle  Dauphine.  260. 
1 70 1 .  The  war  of  the  Spanish  succession  begins, 
France  &  Spain  being  allies.  4.  Rus. 

171 2.  Sep.  14.  Louis  XIV.  grants  the  exclusive 

commerce  of  Louisiana  to  Crozat. 
Possession  &  extent  described  Joutel 
196.  2.  Dum.  260. 

171 3.  Mar.  31.  Treaty  of  Utrecht  establishing 

the  49*!'  degree  of  lat.  as  the  division 
between  Louisiana  &  the  British 
Northern  possessions. 

1 714.  Mar.  6.  Treaty  of  Rastadt. 

171 5.  The  French  establish  Natchitoches  on 

Red  river  &  build  a  fort  35.  leagues 
above  it's  mouth.  2.  Dum.  65. 

1 71  5.   The  Spaniards  make  settlements  at  the 
Assinais  &  Adais  on  one  side  &  at  Pen- 


[  '6] 

sacola  on  the  other,  i.  Dupratz  9.  13. 
14.  (this  was  7.  or  10.  leagues  from 
Natchitoches)  to  restrict  the  French 
limits.  I.  Dupratz.  14.  278. 

1 71 6.  Crozat  cedes  his  charter  to  the  West 

India  company.  2.  Dumont.  6.  260. 

1 71 7.  The  company  sent   inhabitants   to   Isle 

Dauphine,  where  were  some  settlers 

before.  2.  Dum.  7. 
Hubert  and  Page  settle  at  the  Natchez. 

2.  Dum.  60. 
Fort  Rosalie  is  built.  2.  Dum.  60. 

171 8.  Two    other    vessels    are   sent   there.   2. 

Dum.  8. 
France  and  England  declare  war  against 
Spain.  Quadruple  alliance.  5.  Rus.  6. 

1 71 9.  The  French  take  Pensacola.  i.  DuPratz 

189.  2.  Dumont  9.  The  Spaniards  re- 
take it.  191.  12.  The  French  take  it 
again,  ib.  195.  18. 

France  and  Spain  make  peace.  5.  Rus.  7. 

France  sends  800.  settlers  to  Louisiana. 
DuPratz.  xlviii. 

Old  Biloxi  is  settled.  2.  Dumont  34. 

Isle  Dauphine  is  evacuated  &  every  body 
removed  to  Old  Biloxi,  except  a  Ser- 
jeant &  guard  of  10.  men,  2.  Dum. 

36.  37- 


[  17] 

New  Biloxi  is  settled.  2.  Dum.  42.  43. 

A  cargo  of  Negroes  arrives  at  Old  Biloxi. 
ib. 

The  grantees  now  settle,  every  one  on 
his  own  grant,  to  wit,  at  Old  Biloxi, 
Bayagoulas,  Point  Coupee,  Natchez, 
Yazous,  Arkansas,  Black  river.  2.  Dum. 
44. 

New  Orleans  is  laid  off,  30  leagues  above 
the  mouth  of  Misipi,  where  some  set- 
tlers from  Canada  had  already  settled, 
&  the  seat  of  government  is  fixed 
there.  2.  Dum.  47. 
1720.  A  fort  on  the  Missouri  is  built  &  gar- 
risoned. 2.  Dum.  74.  Called  Fort  Or- 
leans. JefFry.  139. 

DelaHarpe  &  Dumont,  with  22.  men, 
go  300.  leagues  up  the  Arkansa.  A 
fine  country.  Salt  springs,  marble,  plais- 
ter,  slate  &  gold.  2.  Dum.  70. 

1722.  The  Balise  is  established,  &  a  fort  built 
on  piles.  2.  Dum.  ^j. 
The  Spaniards  attempt  a  settlement 
among  the  Missouris,  but  are  all  mas- 
sacred to  the  number  of  1 500.  2.  Dum. 
282. 

1733.   France,  Spain  &  Sardinia  commence  war 
against  the  Emperor.  5.  Rus.  27. 

1735.   Peace  is  made  5.  Rus.  29. 


[  i8  ] 

1736.  The  French  build  a  fort  at  Tombicbee. 
I.  DuPratz.  85. 

1743.  The  Family  compact  made. 

1748.  The  Treaty  of  Aix  la  Chapelle.  5.  Rus. 

187. 

1762.  Spain  enters  as  an  ally  with  France  into 

the  war  against  England. 

Nov.  3.  France  cedes  Louisiana  West  of 
Iberville  to  Spain  by  a  secret  treaty, 
and  East  of  Iberville  to  England.  Pre- 
liminary treaty.  The  King  of  France's 
order  to  L'Abbadie. 

1763.  The  Treaty  of  Paris  is  made. 

1783.  Great  Britain  cedes  the  two  Floridas  to 
Spain. 


Limits, 

IN  1680.  the  nearest  settlements  of  Spain  were 
on  the  river  Panuco,  100.  leagues  West  of 
the  Misipi.  Hennep.  N.D.  274.  Coxe  115. 
Coxe's  Carolana.  4. 

In  171  5.  they  make  the  settlements  at  Assinais 
&  Adais,  &  Pensacola.    i.  DuPratz.  9.  13. 

14.  278. 

In  1722.   they   attempt   one  on   the   Missouri 


[   -9  ] 

which  is  prevented  by  the  Indians.  2.  Du- 
Pratz  157.  2.  Dumont  282.  JefFry's  hist,  of 
the  French  Dominions  in  America.  139. 

DuPratz  sais  *  the  coast  is  bounded  to  the  West 
by  S!  Bernard's  bay,  where  M.  de  la  Salle 
landed.'  and  again  *on  the  East  the  coast  is 
bounded  by  Rio  Perdido  etc.  a  little  to  the 
East  of  Mobile  etc.  i.  DuPratz.  216.  and 
*the  ked  river  bounds  the  country  to  the 
North.'    I.  DuPratz.  272. 

2.  DuPratz  301.  says  *  Canada  lies  to  the  North 
of  Ohio,  &  inclines  more  to  the  East  than 
the  source  of  Ohio.*  [Consequently  the  Ohio 
was  not  in  Canada,  and  must  therefore  have 
been  in  Louisiana,  as  these  two  provinces 
were  co-terminous.]  And  again  *the  lands 
of  the  Illinois  are  reputed  to  be  a  part  of 
Louisiana.'  lb.  His  book  was  published  in 
1758.  and  the  translation  in  1763. 

The  Translator  of  DuPratz,  in  his  preface,  says 
*  the  mountains  of  New  Mexico  run  in  a 
chain  of  continued  ridges  from  North  to 
South,  and  are  reckoned  to  divide  that  coun- 
try from  Louisiana,  about  900.  miles  West 
from  the  Misipi.  Pa.  xi.' 

171 2.  The  great  document  establishing  with 
precision  the  boundaries  of  Louisiana,  is 
Louis  XIV's  grant  of  this  date  to  Crozat.  to 
be  found  in  the  translation  of  Joutel.  196. 


[  2°] 

1763.  Treaty  of  Paris  Art.  VI.  France  cedes  to 
England  the  river  &  port  of  Mobile  &  every 
thing  on  the  left  side  of  the  Misipi,  which 
she  possesses  or  ought  to  possess  except  the 
island  of  N.  Orleans:  and  Art.  XIX.  Spain 
cedes  to  England  all  she  possesses  East  or  S. 
E.  of  the  Misipi.  Thus  all  Louisiana  E.  of 
the  Misipi.  is  acknoleged  to  England,  and  all 
English  claims  West  of  the  Misipi  ackno- 
leged to  Spain. 

England  divides  the  country  South  of  Georgia, 
&  East  of  the  Iberville  into  two  provinces. 
East  &  West  Florida,  by  the  Apalachicola. 

1783.  England,  by  Art.  V.  of  the  treaty  cedes 
to  Spain  la  Floride  Orientale  ainsi  que  la 
Floride  Occidentale. 

Spain  re-establishes  the  government  of  Louisi- 
ana as  before,  &  the  government  of  Flor- 
ida ;  that  part  of  what  the  English  had  called 
West  Florida  being  under  the  Governor  of 
N.  Orleans,  &  the  rest  under  the  Governor 
of  Florida.  See  the  Baltimore  American 
Patriot.  Vol.  i.  N?  97.  This  is  confirmed  by 
M.  D'Azara,  Spanish  Ambassador  at  Paris 
who  told  mf  Livingston  that  Mobile  made 
a  part  of  Louisiana.  See  Liv's  letter  to  Mon- 
roe. Paris.  May  23.  1803. 

Spain  retrocedes  to  France  by  the  treaty  of  S! 
Ildefonso. 


[  2'  ] 

1803.  Apr.  30.  France  cedes  to  the  US.  Loui- 
siana with  the  same  extent  that  it  now  has, 
&  that  it  had  when  France  possessed  it,  and 
such  as  it  ought  to  be  after  treaties  passed 
subsequently  between  Spain  &  other  powers. 

*  Objections  des  Commissaires  Anglois  sur  Tin- 
certitude  des  limites  de  I'Acadie  etc.  *  Les 
limites  propres  et  anciennes  de  I'Acadie 
s'etendent  depuis  Textremite  de  la  baye 
Fran9oise  jusq'au  cap  Canseau.  L'objection 
d'incertitude  sur  ces  limites  ne  pent  done 
tomber  que  sur  celles  de  I'interieur  des  ter- 
res.  Dans  de  pareils  cas,  la  regie  la  plus  usitee 
et  la  plus  convenable  est  d'etendre  les  lim- 
ites dans  I'interieur  des  terres  j usque  a  la 
source  des  rivieres  qui  se  dechargent  a  la 
cote,  c'est  a  dire  que  chaque  nation  a  de  son 
cote  les  eaux  pendantes.  C'est  ainsi  qu'on  en 
a  use  a  la  paix  des  Pyrenees  pour  fixer  les 
limites  entre  la  France  et  I'Espagne'  etc. 
I.  Memoires  de  I'Amerique.  116. 


[  ^3  ] 


AN 


Examination 

INTO 

The  boundaries  of  Louisiana. 


THE  French  having  for  a  century  and 
a  half  been  in  possession  of  Canada, 
and  it's  inhabitants  penetrating  to  the 
remote  waters  communicating  with 
the  S!  Laurence,  they  learned  of  the  Indians 
that,  in  the  neighborhood  of  those  waters,  arose 
a  great  river,  called  the  Missisipi,  running  due 
South  to  the  sea,  and  through  a  fine  country 
unpossessed  by  any  white  nation.  In  1673.  ^^ 
Sieurs  Joliet  and  Marquette,  two  Canadians,  un- 
dertook to  explore  it,  descended  the  Missisipi 
as  far  as  the  river  Arkansa,  in  3  3  °  &  returned  to 
Canada.  Their  account  of  it  inflamed  the  en- 
terprize  of  M.  de  la  Salle,  who  in  1675,  went  to 
France  to  sollicit  authority  to  explore  the  Mis- 
sipi.  He  obtained  it,  returned  to  Canada,  and  in 
1680.  went  as  far  as  the  river  Illinois,  on  the 


[  24] 

lower  part  of  which  he  built  &  garrisoned  a  fort 
called  Crevecoeur,  and  sent  the  father  Hennepin 
with  2.  men  to  push  his  discoveries  down  the 
Misipi  as  far  as  he  could ;  &,  as  preparatory  to  a 
more  formal  essay,  going  himself  Northwardly. 
Hennepin  descended  the  Misipi  to  the  ocean,  & 
returned  with  the  information  collected,  to  the 
Illinois.  In  1682.  La  Sale  &  Tonti  undertook 
their  expedition ;  went  down  the  river  with  60. 
men,  named  the  country  Louisiana,  built  a  fort 
in  the  Chickasaw  country,  60  leagues  below  the 
Ohio,  which  they  called  Prudhomme,  reached 
the  ocean,  and  returned  to  Canada  the  ensuing 
year  1683. 

La  Sale  then  went  to  France,  to  obtain  the 
means  of  going  thence  to  the  Misipi  directly  by 
sea.  In  the  mean  time  some  Canadians  descend 
the  river,  &  settle  near  it's  mouth,  &  along  the 
coast  Eastwardly,  to  the  island  of  Massacre,  op- 
posite Mobile.  The  government  of  France,  enter- 
ing at  once  into  the  view  of  extending  an  united 
possession  along  the  S*  Laurence  &  Misipi,  from 
sea  to  sea  equips  la  Sale  with  4.  vessels,  on  board 
of  which  were  280.  persons,  of  whom  100.  were 
officers  and  soldiers  furnished  with  all  necessa- 
ries. He  sailed  in  July  1684.  from  Rochelle,  and 
missing  the  mouth  of  the  Missisipi,  landed  Feb. 
18.  1685.  in  the  Bay  of  S*  Bernard  to  the  West 
of  it.  Here  he  takes  possession,  makes  two  suc- 
cessive establishments,  building  and  garrisoning 


[  25  ] 

forts  at  each,  the  second  of  which  was  called  S! 
Louis. 

The  Chevalier  Tonti,  about  this  time,  sets  out 
from  Canada  in  quest  of  La  Sale,  whom  he  sup- 
posed to  be  then  on  the  Misipi,  descends  with 
40.  men  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  reconnoitres 
the  coast  20.  leagues  East  &  West ;  finding  no- 
thing of  La  Sale,  he  ascends  the  river,  builds  a 
house  on  the  river  Arkansa,  and  leaves  10.  men 
in  it,  which  becomes  a  permanent  settlement, 
and  he  returns  to  Canada. 

In  1686  La  Sale  attempts  to  penetrate  from 
fort  S!  Louis  to  the  Illinois  by  land,  but  is 
obliged  to  return.  In  1687  he  makes  another 
attempt  with  17.  men,  and  is  murdered  on  the 
way  by  some  of  his  own  people.  Cavelier,  bro- 
ther of  La  Sale,  undertakes  the  same  enterprize 
with  7.  men;  they  find  the  house  on  the  Arkansa 
built  by  Tonti,  with  only  two  men  remaining 
in  it;  they  leave  a  third,  strike  the  Misipi,  and 
reach  Canada.  Tonti  descends  the  river  a  second 
time,  finds  two  Frenchmen  who  had  separated 
from  Cavelier  settled  at  the  Coroas,  and  returns 
to  the  Illinois. 

In  1689.  a  war  commenced  between  France 
and  Spain,  which  continuing  till  the  treaty  of 
Ryswick  in  1697.  suspended  the  aids  of  France 
to  her  colony:  but  in  1698.  D'Iberville  was  sent 
as  it's  governor  with  recruits.  He  discovers  the 
mouths  of  the  Misipi,  and  settles  his  new  recruits 


[26] 

at  Isle  Massacre,  which  he  calls  Isle  Dauphine, 
and  at  Mobile,  where  they  find  the  Canadians 
who  had  settled  there  in  1683.  Spain  had,  dur- 
ing the  war,  to  wit,  in  1696.  taken  a  counter- 
post  at  Pensacola. 

The  result  from  these  facts  is  that  France  had 
formal  &  actual  possession  of  the  coast  from 
Mobile  to  the  bay  of  S'  Bernard,  &  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Misipi  up  into  the  country  as  far 
as  the  river  Illinois.  The  nearest  Spanish  settle- 
ments at  this  time  were  on  the  River  Panuco, 
to  the  West,  100.  leagues  from  the  Misipi,  and  at 
Pensacola,  to  the  East  .  .  leagues  distant.  There 
does  not  appear  as  yet  indeed  to  have  been  any 
formal  declaration  of  the  limits  of  Louisiana: 
but  the  practice  of  nations,  on  making  discov- 
eries in  America,  has  sanctioned  a  principle  that 
*  when  a  nation  takes  possession  of  any  extent  of 
sea-coast,  that  possession  is  understood  as  extend- 
ing into  the  interior  country  to  the  sources  of 
the  rivers  emptying  within  that  coast,  to  all  their 
branches,  &  the  country  they  cover.'  i.  Mem. 
de  I'Amerique  116.  It  was  in  support  of  this 
principle  of  virtual  and  declared  possession,  that 
France  entered  into  the  war  of  1755  against 
Great  Britain,  whose  settlements  began  now  to 
reach  the  Eastern  waters  of  the  Misipi,  and  who 
opposed  the  claim  of  France,  not  on  a  denial 
of  this  principle,  but  on  a  prior  possession  taken 
&  declared  by  repeated  charters,  thro'  the  space 


[  27  ] 

of  an  hundred  years  preceding,  as  extending 
from  sea  to  sea.  France  then  had  possession  of 
the  Misipi,  and  all  the  waters  running  into  it, 
and  of  the  sea  coast  and  all  it's  rivers  &  territories 
on  them  from  Mobile  to  the  bay  of  S!  Bernard. 
The  river  Perdido,  midway  between  the  adver- 
sary possessions  of  Mobile  &  Pensacola,  became 
afterwards  the  settled  boundary  between  Spain 
&  France,  in  the  East,  and  the  Rio  Norte,  or 
Bravo,  midway  between  the  bay  of  S!  Bernard 
and  the  river  Panuco,  the  then  nearest  settle- 
ment of  Spain,  was  considered  by  France,  if 
not  by  Spain,  and  on  the  same  fair  grounds  as 
in  the  other  quarter,  as  the  boundary  between 
them  in  the  West.  Besides  being  midway  be- 
tween the  actual  possessions  of  the  two  nations, 
that  river  formed  a  natural  and  well  marked 
boundary,  extending  very  far  into  the  country 
Northwardly.  And  accordingly  we  find  by  sev- 
eral *  maps,  some  of  them  published  by  authority 
of  the  French  government,  and  some  Spanish 
maps,  that  France  claimed  to  that  river.  This 
claim  has  not  been  abridged,  as  far  as  is  known, 

*  I  possess  three  antient  maps  which  mark  the  Rio  bravo 
&  it's  Eastern  branch  as  the  dividing  boundary  between 
Louisiana  &  Mexico,  i.  Moll's  map  of  the  West  Indies  & 
adjacent  countries.  2.  Moll's  map  of  Louisiana  etc.  pub- 
lished in  1720.  in  which  the  Southwestern  parts  of  Louisi- 
ana are  said  to  be  copied  from  a  French  map  published  in 
Paris  in  17 18.  and  3.  Homann's  Spanish  map  of  Louisiana 
of  about  the  same  date. 


[28    ] 

by  any  public  treaty  ;  and  those  which  are  se- 
cret, if  any  such  have  taken  place,  cannot  bind 
nations  having  no  notice  of  them,  &  succeed- 
ing fairly  to  the  rights  of  France,  as  publicly 
avowed  &  believed  to  exist.* 

But  the  extent  of  Louisiana  into  the  interior 
country  is  not  left  merely  on  the  principle  of  it's 
dependency  on  the  coast  into  which  it's  waters 
disembogue :  nor  on  the  settlements  extending 
up  it's  great  rivers,  the  Misipi,  the  Missouri,  & 
the  Illinois;  but  on  an  authoritative  and  public 
document  announcing  it's  extent,  and  making 
a  temporary  disposition  of  it.  This  is  the  Letter 
patent  of  Sep.  14.  171 2.  by  which  Louis  XIV. 
grants  to  the  Sieur  Anthony  Crozat  the  exclu- 
sive commerce  of  that  country  for  15.  years.  The 
following  extracts  from  it  ascertain  the  extent 
of  the  country. 

'  Louis  by  the  grace  of  god,  king  of  France  &  Na- 
varre to  all  etc. 

*  The  care  we  have  always  had  to  procure  the  wel- 
fare &  advantage  of  our  subjects  having  induced  us 
etc.  to  seek  for  all  possible  opportunities  of  enlarg- 
ing &  extending  the  trade  of  our  American  colonies, 
we  did,  in  the  year  1683.  give  our  orders  to  under- 
take a  discovery  of  the  countries  &  lands  which  are 
situated  in  the  Northern  part  of  America,  between 

*  To  this  may  be  added  the  verbal  declaration  of  the 
French  CommT  to  those  of  the  US.  on  the  delivery  of  pos- 
session, that  his  positive  instructions  from  his  government 
were  to  take  possession  to  the  Rio  Bravo. 


1 29] 

New  France  &  New  Mexico  :  &  the  Sieur  de  la  Sale, 
to  whom  we  committed  that  enterprize,  having  had 
success  enough  to  confirm  a  belief  that  a  communica- 
tion might  be  settled  from  New  France  to  the  gul-ph 
of  Mexico,  by  means  of  large  rivers ;  this  obliged  us, 
immediately  after  the  peace  of  Ryswick,  to  give  orders 
for  the  establishing  a  colony  there,  &  maintaining  a 
garrison,  which  has  kept  and  preserved  the  possession 
we  had  taken  in  the  very  year  168 J.  of  the  lands,  coasts 
&  islands  which  are  situated  in  the  gulph  of  Mexico, 
between  Carolina  on  the  East,  &  Old  &  New  Mexico 
on  the  West.  But  a  new  war  having  broke  out  in 
Europe  shortly  after,  there  was  no  possibility  till  now, 
of  reaping  from  that  new  colony  the  advantages  that 
might  have  been  expected  from  thence  etc.  And 
whereas  upon  the  information  we  have  received,  con- 
cerning the  disposition  and  situation  of  the  said  coun- 
tries known  at  present  by  the  name  of  the  province  of 
Louisiana,  we  are  of  opinion  that  there  may  be  es- 
tablished therein  a  considerable  commerce  etc.  we 
have  resolved  to  grant  the  commerce  of  the  country 
of  Louisiana  to  the  Sieur  Anthony  Crozat  etc.  For 
these  reasons  etc.  we,  by  these  presents,  signed  by 
our  hand,  have  appointed,  &  do  appoint  the  said  Sieur 
Crozat  to  carry  on  a  trade  in  all  the  lands  possessed 
by  us,  and  bounded  by  New  Mexico,  &  by  the  lands 
of  the  English  of  Carolina,  all  the  establishment, 
ports,  havens,  rivers,  &  principally  the  port  &  haven 
of  the  Isle  Dauphine,  heretofore  called  Massacre,  the 
river  of  S'.  Louis,  heretofore  called  Missisipi,  from  the 
edge  of  the  sea  as  far  as  the  *  Illinois ;  together  with 
the  river  S'.  Philip,  heretofore  called  the  Missourys,  and 

*  The  French  &  Spaniards    called   by  the  name  of  the 
Illinois,  or  Illinois  country,  the  whole  country  on  both  sides 


[  3°] 

of  S'.  Jerome^  heretofore  called  Ouabache,  with  all  the 
countries^  territorieSy  lakes  within  landy  and  the  rivers 
which  fall  directly  or  indirectly  into  that  part  of  the 
river  S!  Louis.' 

The  Articles.  I.  Our  pleasure  is  that  all  the 
aforesaid  lands,  countries^  streams,  rivers  &  islands 
be,  and  remain  comprised  under  the  name  of  the 
government  of  Louisiana,  which  shall  be  depend- 
ant upon  the  general  government  of  New 
France,  to  which  it  is  subordinate :  &  further 
that  all  the  lands  which  we  possess  from  the  Illi- 
nois be  united  etc.  to  the  general  government  of 
New  France,  &  become  part  thereof  etc'  [here 
follow  15.  other  articles  relating  to  commerce 
only]  *  Given  at  Fontainebleau  the  \a^  day  of 
Sep.  in  the  year  of  grace  1 7 1 2  and  of  our  reign 
the  70*^  Louis.  By  the  king  Phelipeaux.' 

'Here  then  is  a  solemn  &  public  declaration 
sufficiently  special  to  shew  that  all  the  waters 
running  directly  or  indirectly  into  the  Misipi, 
and  the  country  embraced  by  them,  are  held 
and  acted  on  by  France,  under  the  name  of  the 
province  of  Louisiana  ;  and  is  a  full  &  unequiv- 
ocal supplement,  if  any  supplement  were  neces- 
sary, to  the  titles  derived,  i.  from  the  actual 
settlements  on  the  river  and  it's  waters,  2.  from 
the  possession  of  the  coast,  &  3.  from  the  prin- 
ciple which  annexes  to  it   all  the   depending 

of  the  Upper  Mi?ipi.  That  on  the  Eastern  side  was  called  East 
Illinois,  that  on  the  West  side  West  Illinois. 


[  3'  ] 

waters.  The  treaties  of  Ryswick,  in  1697,  where 
France  &  Spain  were  adversary  powers,  &  those 
of  Utrecht  in  171 3.  &  Rastadt  in  17 14.  where 
they  were  aUies,  by  their  silence,  as  well  as  by 
their  provisions,  as  to  these  countries,  must  be 
considered  as  sanctioning  the  rights  of  France  to 
this  province :  to  which  add  the  progress  made 
by  France,  undisturbed  &  unquestioned,  by 
Spain,  in  extending  her  settlements  ad  libitum 
within  them,  till  1763.  It  is  true  that  in  171 5. 
some  Spaniards  made  small  settlements  at  the 
Assinais,  &  Adais,  &  in  1722.  attempted  one 
on  the  Missouri.  The  last  was  prevented  by  the 
Indians,  and  the  former  were  connived  at  by 
the  Agents  of  France  to  favor  a  smugling  com- 
merce with  New  Mexico.  But  these  contraband 
encroachments  cannot  weigh  as  evidence  of 
ownership  against  the  possession  taken  by  France 
30.  years  before,  &  the  solemn  establishment  of 
boundary  by  Louis  XIV. 

War  breaking  out  between  them  in  1 71 8.  the 
French  took  Pensacola ;  the  Spaniards  retook  it, 
but  the  French  recovered  &  retained  it  till  the 
peace  in  171 9  when  it  was  restored  to  Spain; 
and  from  this  epoch  the  river  Perdido  has  been 
the  acknowledged  and  undisturbed  boundary 
between  Louisiana  and  Florida. 

The  boundaries  of  Louisiana  then,  as  held 
by  France,  were  the  sea-coast  &  islands  from 
the  river  Perdido  to  the  Rio  Norte  or  Bravo, 


L  32  ] 

then  up  the  Rio  Bravo  to  it's  source ;  thence 
to  the  highlands  encompassing  the  waters  of  the 
Misipi,  and  along  those  highlands  round  the 
heads  of  the  Missouri  &  Misipi  &  their  waters 
to  where  those  highlands  assume  the  name  of 
the  Alleganey  or  Apalachian  mountains,  thence 
along  those  mountains,  and  the  highlands  en- 
compassing the  waters  of  the  Mobile,  to  the 
source  of  the  Perdido,  &  down  that  to  the 
ocean. 

In  opposition  to  these  claims,  both  of  France 
and  Spain,  were  those  of  the  then  English  col- 
onies, now  the  US.  whose  charters  extended 
from  sea  to  sea,  and  consequently  covered  all 
Louisiana  &  Mexico,  above  the  parallel  of  lat- 
itude which  formed  the  Southern  boundary  of 
Georgia.  These  adversary  claims  were  settled  by 
the  war  of  1755— 1763.  and  the  treaty  of  Paris 
which  closed  it,  and  which  made  the  Misipi  & 
Iberville  the  Western  limit  of  the  English  pos- 
sessions, and  thenceforward  the  Eastern  limit  of 
Louisiana. 

This  war  had  begun  between  France  &  Eng- 
land, Spain  being  unconcerned  in  the  grounds 
of  it.  In  the  beginning,  France  had  sensibly  the 
advantage,  but  after  awhile  it's  successes  were 
signally  on  the  side  of  England.  In  1762  Spain 
entered  into  it  as  a  volunteer  &  ally  of  France. 
Great  Britain  immediately  attacked  &  took  the 
town  of  Havanna,  &  an  important  portion  of  the 


[  33  ] 

island  of  Cuba ;  which  imminently  endanger- 
ing the  continental  possessions  of  Spain  within 
"the  gulf,  and  her  communication  with  them, 
negociations  for  peace  were  very  soon  set  on 
foot.  Great  Britain,  in  exchange  for  her  con- 
quest in  Cuba,  required  Florida,  &  that  part  of 
Louisiana  from  the  Perdido  to  the  Iberville. 
Besides  the  just  sympathy  which  France  felt  for 
Spain,  who  had  sustained  this  incalculable  loss 
by  friendly  endeavors  to  aid  her,  she  was  bound 
by  the  family  compact,  lately  renewed.  Article 
XVIII.  *  to  consider  the  interests  of  Spain  as  her 
own,  &  to  share  in  it's  losses  and  advantages.'  A 
considerable  change  too  had  taken  place  in  the 
minds  of  the  government  of  France,  against  the 
possession  of  distant  colonies,  which  could  not 
be  protected  but  by  a  great  navy.  France  there- 
fore, by  a  secret  treaty,  Nov.  3.  1762.  (being 
the  same  day  on  which  they  publicly  signed  the 
preliminary  articles  with  Gr.  Britain)  consented 
to  cede  all  Louisiana  to  Spain,  in  order  to  en- 
able her,  by  the  sacrifice  of  such  part  of  it  as 
she  thought  proper,  to  ransom  Cuba,  and  to 
indemnify  her  for  the  loss  of  Florida,  required 
also  by  Great  Britain  to  make  up  the  equiva- 
lent. The  portion  of  Louisiana  from  Iberville 
to  Perdido  therefore,  ceded  to  Great  Britain 
by  the  definitive  treaty  of  Feb.  10.  1763.  did 
in  substance  move  from  Spain  to  Gr.  Britain, 
altho'  France,  as  not  having  publicly  conveyed 


[  34] 

it  to  Spain,  was  the  formal  conveyor  to  Eng- 
land. Yet  she  acted  herein  merely  as  the  friend 
&  agent  of  Spain,  who  was  become  in  truth  the 
real  proprietor  of  all  Louisiana.  The  importance 
of  seeing  this  transaction  in  it's  true  light  will 
hereafter  appear. 

England  immediately  laid  off  this  portion  of 
Louisiana,  with  so  much  of  Florida  as  laid  West 
of  the  Apalachicola,  into  a  separate  govern- 
ment, to  which  she  gave  the  name  of  West 
Florida ;  and  the  residue  of  Florida  into  an- 
other government,  to  which  she  gave  the  name 
of  East  Florida.  And  Spain,  now  proprietor  of 
Louisiana,  &  of  course  free  to  curtail  it's  future 
boundary  to  the  Westward,  according  to  her 
own  convenience,  extended  the  limits  &  juris- 
diction of  New  Mexico  to  the  waters  of  the 
river  Mexicana  inclusively.  But  this  cannot  dis- 
prove the  former  extent  of  Louisiana,  as  it  had 
been  held  &  ceded  by  France ;  but  was  done 
in  virtue  of  the  right  ceded  by  France. 

The  war  of  1775- 178 3.  began  between  Great 
Britain  &  the  US.  but  France  and  Spain  at 
length  became  parties  to  it.  By  the  treaty  of 
Paris  of  1783.  which  terminated  it,  Gr.  Britain 
was  constrained  to  restore  to  Spain  Florida,  and 
the  territory  East  of  the  Iberville,  which  she 
had  received  at  the  close  of  the  former  war  in 
exchange  for  Cuba.  If  the  portion  of  Louisi- 
ana  comprised   in   it   had  really   moved   from 


[  35  ] 

France,  then  the  restitution  of  the  portion  be- 
tween Iberville  &  Perdido  should  have  been  to 
France,  and  that  of  Florida  only  to  Spain.  But 
as  the  whole  had  moved  substantially  from 
Spain,  the  whole  was  restored  to  her.  On  re- 
entering into  possession  Aug.  1 8.  1769.  she  con- 
tinued the  English  annexation  of  the  Eastern 
portion  of  Louisiana  with  a  part  of  Florida, 
under  the  name  of  West  Florida ;  restoring 
however  the  whole  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Governor  of  Louisiana,  residing  at  N.  Orleans  : 
and  in  public  *  instruments,  as  well  as  in  com- 
mon parlance  that  portion  has  been  spoken  of 
under  the  names  of  Louisiana,  or  of  West  Flor- 
ida indifferently. 

The  nation  of  France  had  seen  with  consid- 
erable dissatisfaction  the  separation  of  Louisiana 
from  the  mother  country.  That  province  had 
ever  been  viewed  by  it  with  great  partiality.  It 
was  inhabited  by  their  relations  &  fellow  citi- 
zens :  &  they  considered  Spain,  in  the  immen- 
sity of  her  possessions,  as  not  entitled  to  such 
a  sacrifice  from  France.  Besides  she  had  now 
got  back  both  Florida  &  Cuba :  and  there  was 
no  justice  in  her  continuing  to  retain  Louisiana, 
which  had  been  ceded  to  her  only  as  an  indem- 
nification for  the  loss  of  one,  &  the  means  of 
getting  back  the  other.  As  soon  therefore  as  the 
successful  administration  of  the  first  Consul  of 
*  One  of  these  was  deposited  in  the  office  of  state; 


[  36] 

France  had  raised  her  into  a  condition  for  re- 
demanding  from  other  nations  what  she  deemed 
her  rights,  Spain  was  required  to  make  restitu- 
tion of  Louisiana,  under  the  friendly  cover  indeed 
of  an  exchange,  but  it's  inequality  shews  it  was 
but  a  cover.  The  real  grounds  of  restitution  re- 
quired that  it  should  not  be  mutilated,  but  full 
and  entire  as  she  received  it.  For  what  had  she 
ever  given  for  it  ?  She  was  compleatly  replaced 
in  her  antient  possessions.  On  what  just  ground 
then  could  she  propose  to  retain  any  portion  of 
the  equivalent  ceded  only  as  an  indemnity  for 
them  ?  Accordingly  a  compleat  retro-cession  was 
provided  for  by  the  treaty  of  S!  Ildefonso  of 
Oct.  1 .  1 800.  by  definitions  studiously  formed  to 
reach  every  thing  which  had  been  ceded  to  or  for 
her  by  France.  By  that  instrument  she  re-cedes 
to  France  the  colony  or  province  of  Louisiana, 
with  the  same  extent  i .  that  it  now  has  in  the 
hands  of  Spain.  2.  that  it  had  when  France 
possessed  it,  and  3.  such  as  it  ought  to  be  after 
the  treaties  passed  subsequently  between  Spain 
and  other  powers.  That  is  i .  she  is  to  recede  the 
antient  country  of  Louisiana,  as  it  is  now  re- 
covered back  into  the  hands  of  Spain  &  held 
by  her  under  the  name  of  Louisiana,  or  West 
Florida,  or  Mexico,  or  by  whatever  other  names 
she  or  other  powers  may  since  have  chosen  to 
designate  certain  parts  of  it,  or  to  sever  it  by 
overlapping  Mexico   on  it's  West,   and  West 


[  37] 

Florida  on  it's  Eastern  quarter :  she  is  to  recede 
the  thingy  as  it  is  in  her  hands,  unaffected  by 
new  names.  To  make  it  still  plainer,  she  is  to 
retrocede  it  2^?  with  the  same  extent  that  it  had 
when  France  possessed  it.  Now  France  never 
possessed  it  one  day  with  any  less  extent  than 
from  the  Perdido  to  the  Rio  Norte,  &  inland 
to  the  sources  of  all  it's  rivers.  The  whole  of 
this  extent  she  transferred  on  the  same  day  by 
two  treaties  of  equal  date,  to  wit,  all  Westward 
of  the  Misipi  &  Iberville  to  Spain,  &  all  East- 
ward to  Great  Britain.  But,  of  the  Eastern  por- 
tion, Spain  having  since  recovered  back  all  be- 
low 31°.  of  latitude,  that,  with  the  Western  side, 
composes  Louisiana,  as  now  in  the  hands  of 
Spain,  and  as  it  had  been  possessed  by  France. 
But,  not  to  disturb  the  right  of  the  US.  to  the 
portion  North  of  31°.  and  to  shew  that  it  was 
only  so  much  of  the  Louisiana  held  by  France, 
as  was  now  in  the  hands  of  Spain,  it  is  expressly 
limited  3*^^  to  be  such  as  it  ought  to  be  after 
the  treaties  passed  subsequently  between  Spain  & 
other  powers.  Subsequently  to  what  ?  To  the  ces- 
sion of  the  country  by  France.  When  was  that 
session  .?  Nov.  3.  1762.  and  Feb.  10.  1763.  What 
are  the  treaties  subsequent  to  this  ?  Those  af- 
fecting the  limits  of  Louisiana  are  the  treaty 
of  Sep.  3.  1783.  with  Great  Britain,  &  that  of 
Oct.  27.  1795.  with  the  US.  The  former  was  a 
restitution,  by  Gr.  Britain  to  Spain,  of  Florida, 


[  38  ] 

&  the  portion  of  Louisiana  from  the  Perdido  to 
the  Iberville  :  and  consequently,  after  this  treaty, 
the  extent  of  Louisiana  ought  to  be,  as  again  con- 
solidated to  the  Perdido.  But  inasmuch  as  by 
the  latter  of  these  two  treaties,  Spain  had  con- 
firmed to  the  US.  a  degree  of  latitude  [from 
32°.  to  31°.]  which  she  had  long  contended 
to  be  an  unceded  part  of  Louisiana,  &  con- 
sequently not  within  the  limits  of  the  US., 
therefore  by  this  provision,  that  right  is  saved 
to  the  US.  &  the  extent  of  Eastern  Louisiana, 
after  this  treaty,  ought  to  be  only  to  the  latitude 

of3i°. 

Should  it  be  alledged  that  this  confirmation 

of  the  diminutions  of  Louisiana  by  treaties  sub- 
sequent to  it's  alienation  by  France,  goes  to  the 
treaty  of  1763.  with  Gr.  Britain  also;  the  an- 
swer is  that  this  treaty  was  simultaneous  with 
the  alienation,  &  not  subsequent  to  it,  and  there- 
fore could  not  be  within  the  scope  of  this  defi- 
nition. The  confirmation  too  is  in  favor  of 
treaties  made  by  Spain,  with  other  nations.  That 
with  Great  Britain  is  by  France  and  Spain.  But 
it  might  also  be  justly  observed  that  Louisiana 
was  not  lessened  in  it's  dimensions  by  that  treaty ; 
it  was  only  divided,  the  Eastern  portion  thereof 
transferred  to  Great  Britain,  the  Western  to  Spain ; 
who  might  new-name  a  part  of  it  West  Florida, 
&  a  part  Mexico,  for  their  internal  purposes,  as 
they  pleased  ;  but  when  the  portion  newly  called 


[  39] 

West  Florida  came  back  to  the  hands  of  Spaitiy  it 
was  still  a  part  of  antient  Louisiana,  as  possessed 
by  France,  as  now  in  the  hands  of  Spain,  &  un- 
alienated by  subsequent  treaties  of  Spain  with 
other  powers. 

On  the  whole,  the  intention  of  the  treaty  of 
S*  Ildefonso  is  clearly  this.  France  had  in  1763. 
generously  ceded  all  Louisiana  to,  or  for  Spain. 
Spain  consented  that  the  Eastern  portion  of 
it,  below  Georgia,  together  with  her  Florida, 
should  go  to  recover  Cuba.  Afterwards  however, 
in  another  war,  by  the  arms  of  France  and  of 
the  US.  (for  Spain  came  in  late,  &  then  did 
little  more  than  waste  her  resources  on  the  rock 
of  Gibraltar)  she  recovers  back,  and  has  secured 
to  her,  her  antient  Florida,  &  the  Eastern  por- 
tion of  Louisiana,  below  Georgia.  The  treaty 
of  SJ  Ildefonso  therefore  meant  to  review  this 
whole  transaction,  &  to  restore  France  &  Spain 
to  the  Status  quo  prior  to  the  war  of  1755.— 63. 
Spain  being  now  in  possession  of  her  original 
colonies  of  Florida  and  Cuba,  it  was  just,  &  was 
meant,  that  France  should  also  be  reinstated  in 
Louisiana,  so  far  as  Spain,  while  it  was  in  her 
hands,  had  not  transferred  portions  of  it  by  per- 
manent alienations  to  other  powers.  She  con- 
lined  her  reclamation  therefore  to  the  part  of 
her  antient  possession  which  was  in  the  hands 
of  Spain,  not  touching  the  portions  which  had 
been  validly  transferred  to  the  US. 


L40] 

If  Spain  then  were  not  to  deliver  the  country 
from  the  Iberville  &  Missipi  to  the  Perdido,  this 
would  not  be  delivering  Louisiana  with  the  ex- 
tent it  had  when  France  possessed  it,  &  before 
it  had  ever  been  dismembered :  nor  with  the 
extent  it  now  has  in  the  hands  of  Spain,  since  it 
has  been  restored  to  it's  antient  &  integral  form : 
nor  such  as  it  ought  to  be  after  the  treaty  sub- 
sequently passed  with  England  in  1783.  And 
we  trust  that  these  definitions  are  too  exact 
&  unequivocal,  &  Spain  too  just,  to  admit  any 
doubt  of  what  we  are  entitled  to  demand,  & 
she  bound  to  deliver. 

Whatever  Louisiana  was,  as  retroceded  by 
Spain  to  France,  such  exactly  it  is,  as  ceded  by 
France  to  the  US.  by  the  treaty  of  Paris  of 
April  30.  1803. 

Sept.  7,  1 803 


P.  S,  The  Northern  boundary  of  Lou- 
isiana, Coterminous  with  the  pos- 
sessions of  England. 

THE  limits  of  Louisiana  have  been  spoken 
of  in  the  preceding  statement,  as  if  those 
established  to  the  West  &  North,  by  the  charter 
of  Louis  XIV.  remained  still  unaltered.  In  the 
West  they  are  so,  as  already  explained.    But,  in 


[41   ] 

the  North,  a  material  change  has  taken  place. 
With  this  however  it  was  unnecessary  to  com- 
plicate our  subject,  while  considering  the  inter- 
ests of  Spain  alone :  because  the  possessions  of 
Great  Britain,  &  not  of  Spain,  are  coterminous 
with  Louisiana  on  it's  Northern  boundary.  We 
will  now  therefore  proceed  to  examine  the 
state  of  that  boundary,  as  between  Gr.  Britain 
&  the  US. 

Disputes  having  arisen  between  Gr.  Britain 
&  France  as  to  the  limits  between  Canada  & 
Louisiana  on  the  one  side,  &  the  countries  of 
the  Hudson's  bay,  &  North  Western  companies 
on  the  other,  it  was  agreed  by  the  treaty  of 
Utrecht  (171 3)  Art.  X.  that  *  Commissaries 
should  be  forthwith  named  by  each  party  to 
determine  the  limits  between  the  bay  of  Hud- 
son and  the  places  appertaining  to  the  French, 
&  to  describe  &  settle  the  boundaries  between 
the  other  British  and  French  colonies  in  those 
parts  '  these  Commissaries  accordingly  fixed  the 
Northern  boundaries  of  Canada  &  Louisiana, 
by  a  line  beginning  on  the  Atlantic,  at  a  Cape  or 
Promontory  in  58°— 30'  N.  Lat.  thence  South 
Westwardly  to  the  lake  Misgosink,  or  Mista- 
sin,  thence  farther  S.  W.  to  the  lat.  of  49?  North 
from  the  Equator,  and  along  that  line  indefi- 
nitely. [Hutchins's  topographical  description  of 
Louisiana,  pa.  7.]  Thus  the  Northern  boundary 
of  Canada  and  Louisiana  became  fixed,  &  the 


[42] 

latter  particularly  became  changed  to  the  par- 
allel of  49?  from  the  Equator,  instead  of  the 
highlands  inclosing  the  Northern  waters  run- 
ning directly  or  indirectly  into  the  Misipi,  as 
settled  by  Louis  XIV.  Canada  being,  by  the 
peace  of  1763.  transferred  to  England,  it's  South- 
ern boundary  was  settled  by  the  treaty  of  1783. 
with  the  US.  along  the  S'  Croix  &  highlands 
bounding  the  Southern  waters  of  the  S!  Lau- 
rence, the  45^  degree  of  latitude  to  the  water 
communication  between  the  lakes,  and  along 
that  communication  to  the  lake  of  the  woods; 
whence  the  line  of  the  US.  was  to  run  due  West, 
till  it  should  strike  the  Missisipi.  Now,  accord- 
ing to  the  maps  of  that  time,  and  particularly 
Mitchell's  on  *  which  the  boundary  of  1783. 
was  predicated,  the  line  of  49?  passes  through 
the  Southern  part  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods : 
and  the  North  Western  point  of  the  lake  of  the 
Woods,  as  observed  by  Thompson,  Astronomer 
to  the  North  West  company,  is  in  Lat.  49°— 37'. 
[McKenzie's  2.  voyage  chapt.  13.]  At  that  lake 
therefore  the  English  negotiators  ceased  to  pur- 
sue the  water  communication,  because,  South  of 
the  latitude  of  that  lake,  they  owned  nothing: 
and  to  have  followed  the  water  line  further 
Northwardly,  would  have  broken  in  upon  the 
continuity  of  their  Southern  boundary.  Canada 

*  The  identical  map  used  by  the  negociators,  with  their 
MS.  marks  on  it,  is  deposited  in  the  office  of  state. 


[43  ] 

was  thus  closed  to  the  West,  by  it's  Northern 
&  Southern  limits  meeting  in  a  point  in  the 
lake  of  the  Woods.  It  was  at  that  time  believed 
that  the  Missisipi,  heading  North  of  49!  would 
have  been  intersected  by  that  line  of  latitude,  and 
our  possessions  consequently  closed.  But  subse- 
quent information  rendered  it  probable  that  that 
river  did  not  extend  so  far  North;  (it  is  now 
said  only  to  47!  38')  and  consequently  that  there 
was  an  unclosed  space  between  it's  source  &  the 
lake  of  the  woods.  Without  undertaking  to  de- 
cide what  were  the  limits  dividing  Great  Britain 
&  Spain  in  that  quarter,  we  concluded  it  would 
be  safest  to  settle,  as  occasions  should  offer,  our 
boundary  there  with  both  nations,  on  the  prin- 
ciple of  *  valeat  quantum  valere  potest  *  with 
each.  Having  to  form  a  convention  with  Eng- 
land for  ascertaining  our  limits  in  the  North 
Eastern  quarter,  we  took  that  occasion  for  clos- 
ing, as  far  as  depended  on  her  right,  the  vacancy 
in  our  North  Western  angle;  &  therefore  pro- 
posed it  to  her.  While  negociations  were  going 
on  at  London  for  this  purpose,  an  opportunity 
occurred  of  our  acquiring  Louisiana :  and  the 
stipulations  being  promptly  concluded,  a  treaty 
for  that  acquisition  was  actually  signed  at  Paris 
twelve  days  before  that  of  London  was  con- 
cluded. But  this  treaty  was  not  known  to  the 
negociators  of  either  party  at  London  ;  nor  could 
the  rights  acquired  by  it,  be  affected  by  arrange- 


[44] 

ments  instituted  &  compleated  there  merely  for 
the  purpose  of  explaining  and  supplying  the 
provisions  in  the  treaty  of  1783.  In  result,  this 
acquisition  rendered  these  explanations  unneces- 
sary, and  the  V^  article  respecting  them  merely 
nugatory.  For  England  holding  nothing  in  that 
quarter  Southward  of  49?  the  line  proposed  in 
the  V'^  article,  from  the  North  Western  point 
of  the  lake  of  the  Woods  Southwardly  to  the 
nearest  source  of  the  Misipi,  is  through  a  coun- 
try, not  belonging  to  her,  but  now  to  the  US. 
Consequently  the  consent  of  no  other  nation 
can  now  be  necessary  to  authorize  it.  It  may 
be  run,  or  not,  and  in  any  direction  which  suits 
ourselves.  It  has  become  a  merely  municipal 
object  respecting  the  line  of  division  which  we 
may  chuse  to  establish  between  two  of  our  ter- 
ritories. It  follows  then  that  the  V*^  Article  of 
the  Convention  of  London  of  May  12.  1803. 
should  be  expunged,  as  nugatory ;  and  that  in- 
stead of  it,  should  be  substituted  one  declaring 
that  the  dividing  line  between  Louisiana  &  the 
British  possessions  adjacent  to  it,  shall  be  from 
the  North  Western  point  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods,  along  the  water  edge  Westwardly  to  it's 
intersection  with  the  parallel  of  49?  North  from 
the  Equator,  then  along  that  parallel  (as  estab- 
lished by  the  treaty  of  Utretcht  between  Gr. 
Britain  &  France)  until  it  shall  meet  the  limits 
of  the  Spanish  province  next  adjacent.  And  it 


[45  ] 

would  be  desirable  to  agree  further  that,  if  that 
parallel  shall,  in  any  part,  intersect  any  waters 
of  the  Missouri,  then  the  dividing  line  shall 
pass  round  all  those  waters  to  the  North  until 
it  shall  again  fall  into  the  same  parallel,  or  meet 
the  limits  of  the  Spanish  province  next  adja- 
cent. Or,  unapprised  that  Spain  has  any  right 
as  far  North  as  that,  &  Westward  of  Louisiana, 
it  may  be  as  well  to  leave  the  extent  of  the 
boundary  of  49f  indefinite,  as  was  done  on  the 
former  occasion. 
Jan.  15.  1804. 


THE  EXPLORATION  OF  THE 
RED,  THE  BLACK,  AND  THE 
WASHirA  RIVERS. 


This  Manuscript  presented  to  the 
American  Philosophical  Society 

by  D.  Parker 

Phil?  1 8  July  1 8 17 
Rec"^  thro'  Dr  Cutbush 


[3] 

Extract  from  the  iW^eSSage  from 
the  President  of  the  United 
States,  read  in  Congress, 
February  19,  1806. 

**Tr  TAVING  been  disappointed,  after  consider- 

I 1    able  preparation,  in  the  purpose  of  sending 

-■--*-  an  exploring  party  up  that  river,  in  the 
summer  of  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  four,  it 
was  thought  best  to  employ  the  autumn  of  that  year 
in  procuring  a  knowledge  of  an  interesting  branch  of 
the  [Red]  river  called  the  Washita.  This  was  under- 
taken under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Dunbar,  of  Natchez, 
a  citizen  of  distinguished  science,  who  had  aided,  and 
continues  to  aid  us,  with  his  disinterested  and  valuable 
services  in  the  prosecution  of  these  enterprises.  He 
ascended  the  river  to  the  remarkable  hot  springs  near 
it,  in  latitude  34°  31' 4''.i6,  longitude  92°  50^45'' 
west  from  Greenwich,  taking  its  courses  and  distances, 
and  correcting  them  by  frequent  celestial  observations. 
Extracts  from  his  observations,  and  copies  of  his  map 
of  the  river,  from  its  mouth  to  the  hot  springs,  make 
part  of  the  present  communications.  The  examination 
of  the  Red  river  itself,  is  but  now  commencing. 

TH:   JEFFERSON. 

February  19,  1806. 


JOURNAL 


OF   A 


¥^opage 


Commencing  at  S[  Catherines 
landing,  on  the  East  bank 
of  the  Missisippi^  proceeding 
downwards  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Red  river,  and  from 
thence  ascending  that  river, 
the  Black  river  and  the  Wa- 
shita river  as  high  as  the  Hot- 
Springs  in  the  proximity  of 
the  last  mentioned  river. 


[6] 


This  voyage  was  undertaken  by 

the  late  William  Dunbar  Esq  of  Natchez  1804 

in  Company  with  George  Hunter. — 

This  Journal 

was  kept  by  M'  Dunbar  —  &  is  200  pages 


The  Geometrical  Survey  of  the 

Rout  will  be  found  at  the  End  consist'g  of  64 

Pages  in  his  hand  writing. 

Philad.  18  July  18 17 

Jn.  Vaughan 


l7l 


JOURNAL 


OF   A 


VOTAGE 


SET  out  from  S^  Catherine's  landing  in  ri8o4 
the  afternoon.     The  Latitude  of  this  \  October  le^** 
place  is  3 1°  26'  30"  North ;  and  Longi-       "^^  ^^ 
tude  6^  5'  56"  — west  of  Greenwich. 
A  little  below  are  the  white  cliffs  5  leagues 
below  the  Natchez  the  face  of  the  cliffs  is  chiefly 
white  sand  surmounted  by  pine ;  the  cliffs  are 
from  100  to  200  feet  high  ;  when  the  waters 
are  low  the  basis  of  the  cliffs  are   uncovered 
consisting  of  clay  of  different  colours  and  some 
beds  of  ochre  covered  here  and  there  by  a  thin 
lamina  of  iron  ore ;  small  springs  possessing  a 
petrifying  property  flow  over  the  clay  and  ochre; 
numberless  logs  and  pieces  of  timber  converted 
into  stone  are  strewed  about  the  beach.    Fine 
pure  argil  of  various  colours  chiefly  white  and 
red  is  found  here.   Encamped  at  night  upon  an 
Island  7  miles  below  the  place  of  departure. 

Set 


i8o4 
October 

Wednesday 
17th 


[8] 

Set  off;  passed  Fort  Adams,  and  six  miles 
>  farther  the  line  of  demarcation,  and  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  red  river  about  nine  miles  below 
the  line  of  demarcation  ;  encamped  just  w^ithin 
its  mouth ;  the  waters  of  this  river  have  a  red 
appearance  from  a  rich  fat  earth  or  marl  of  that 
colour  born  down  by  the  floods  from  which  it 
derives  its  name ;  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  about 
five  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide :  here  we  com- 
menced taking  the  meanders  of  the  river  by 
course  and  time  depending  upon  the  log  to 
inform  us  of  our  rate  of  going  as  well  as  the 
velocity  of  the  Current ;  there  is  however  no 
sensible  Current  at  the  mouth  :  the  banks  on 
both  sides  are  here  clothed  with  willows,  the 
land  is  low  and  subject  to  inundation  to  the 
height  of  30  or  more  feet  above  the  present 
level  of  the  waters,  the  mouth  of  the  red  river 
is  accounted  to  be  75  leagues  from  New-orleans 
and  3  miles  above  the  exit  of  the  Chafalaya  or 
Opelousa  river  which  was  probably  the  contin- 
uation of  the  red  river,  when  perhaps  its  waters 
did  not  unite  with  those  of  the  Missisippi  ex- 
cepting during  the  inundation.  M  de  Ferrer  has 
settled  the  Latitude  and  Longitude  of  this  place ; 
the  first  at  3 1°  i'  1 5"  N.  and  the  last  at  6^  7'  11" 
west  of  Greenwich. 


Thursday  i8^?       Set  off  up  the  river,  remarked  vegetation  to 
be  surprisingly  luxuriant  along  the  banks  owing 

no 


[9] 

no  doubt  to  the  rich  red  marie  yearly  deposited  ri8o4 
by  the  floods  of  the  river  —  willows  grow  to  a  l^^^o^^'' 
good  size,  but  other  forest  trees  are  much  smaller 
than  those  seen  upon  the  banks  of  the  Missisippi, 
which  may  be  owing  to  the  newly  formed  soil 
or  its  excessive  richness.  The  river  narrows  grad- 
ually as  we  advance :  at  noon  it  was  about  200 
yards  wide.  Got  out  the  instruments,  which 
requiring  a  good  deal  of  adjustment  we  were 
unable  to  make  perfect  observations.  The  Lat- 
itude 31°.  8'.  54".  6,  perhaps  accurate  enough  to 
correct  the  traverse  of  the  river.*  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  luxuriantly  clothed  with  pea- 
vine  and  several  kinds  of  grasses  yielding  seed, 
of  which  geese  and  ducks  are  very  greedy :  got 
our  log  line  prepared  and  divided  into  perches 
—  hove  the  log  and  found  we  went  at  the  rate 
of  4  perches  in  half  a  minute,  i.  e.  1%  mile 
per  hour  —  very  slow — Soldiers  do  not  exert 
themselves  at  the  oar;  came  to,  for  the  night 
having  made  nearly  1 3  miles  —  hove  the  lead  in 
the  middle  of  the  river  and  found  1 1  fathoms. 
There  are  generally  willows  growing  on  one 
side  of  the  river,  and  on  the  other  the  same 
small  growth  of  forest  trees  continues,  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  black  oak,  packawn,  hickory,  elm 
&c.  The  Trees  are  so  exceedingly  grand  & 
lofty  upon  the  banks  of  the  Missisippi,  that  by 

*  The  place  of  observation  was  at  the  extremity  of  the 
Course  N  32°  E  17'  to  a  p!  on  the  left. 

comparison 


1804  1  comparison  those  bordering  on  this  river  seem 
Octoberj  (j^arfish,  and  appear  to  bear  a  kind  of  propor- 
tion to  the  magnitude  of  their  own  river.  The 
extremes  of  temperature  were  from  46°  to  48° 
of  Farhenheits  thermometer.  Made  this  day 
I2  5S/60  niiles. 

Friday  19'.^  Continued  our  rout  up  the  river  ;  having 
given  the  Soldiers  this  morning  a  few  words  of 
advice  and  encouragement,  they  improved  con- 
siderably in  activity  and  cheerfulness,  hove  the 
log  and  found  we  went  7  perches  per  half  min- 
ute, the  Current  yet  continues  so  moderate  as  to 
offer  no  impediment  to  our  rowing  along  shore 
therefore  not  worth  estimating :  landed  before 
12  to  observe  and  for  dinner.  Latitude  31°  14' 
50".!.  After  dinner  caught  a  runaway  negro; 
proceeded  on  to  the  confluence  of  red  and  black 
river  in  Latitude  31°  15'  48"  which  by  our  reck- 
oning appears  to  be  26^  miles  from  the  Mis- 
sisippi,  the  Contrast  of  the  two  rivers  is  great, 
the  red  river  being  charged  with  red  marly  earth 
and  the  other  a  clear  river  gives  it  by  comparison 
a  dark  appearance,  hence  the  name  of  black 
river  —  Each  river  is  about  150  yards  and  when 
united  about  200  yards  wide.  Sounded  in  the 
black  river  and  found  20  feet  black  sand,  little 
or  no  current.  Took  specimens  of  the  red  marl 
of  red  river  bank.  The  water  of  the  black  river 
is  rather  clearer  than  that  of  the  Ohio  and  of  a 

warm 


[  '■  ] 

warm  temperature,  probably  owing  to  the  waters  f  1 804 
which  flow  into  it  from  the  valley  of  the  Mis-  1  October 
sisippi  particularly  from  the  Catahoola.    Made 
15  miles  102  perches. 

Continue  ascending  the  river  ;  Thermometer  Saturday  20 
47°  Temperature  of  the  water  73-  a  spring  issu- 
ing from  the  river  bank  662  Forest  trees  on  the 
banks  chiefly  red  and  black  oak  interspersed  with 
ash,  paccawn,  hickory,  some  elms,  pirsimon  &c ; 
several  kinds  of  grass  and  many  humble  plants 
in  flower,  so  that  even  at  this  season  our  country 
aflx)rds  employment  for  the  Botanist.  Great  lux- 
uriance of  vegetation  along  the  shore,  grass  very 
rank,  and  a  thick  curtain  of  shrubberry  of  a  deep 
green ;  the  soil  black  marl  mixed  with  a  mod- 
erate proportion  of  sand,  resembling  much  the 
soil  on  the  Missisippi  banks,  yet  the  forest  trees 
are  not  lofty  like  to  those  on  the  margin  of  the 
great  river,  but  resembling  the  growth  on  the 
red  river.  I  omitted  mentioning  in  its  proper 
place,  that  the  last  single  inundation  of  the  red 
river  appears  to  have  deposited  on  the  high  bank 
a  stratum  of  red  marl  above  %  inch  thick  now 
dry ;  some  specimens  were  taken.  Took  a  me- 
ridian altitude  of  the  Sun,  from  which  the  Lati- 
tude deduced  was  31°  2 2' 46". 6 — observed  Canes 
growing  on  several  parts  of  the  right  bank,  a 
proof  that  the  land  is  not  deeply  overflowed, 
perhaps  from  i  to  3  feet :  the  banks  have  the 

appearance 


[    .2    ] 

1 804  ")  appearance  of  stability,  very  little  willow  or  other 
October  J  productions  of  a  newly  formed  soil  being  seen  on 
either  side :  the  solid  high  bank  being  deeply 
shaded  by  vegetation  from  the  humble  creep- 
ing plant  to  the  spreading  oak.  Encamped  at 
sun-set.  Sounded;  5  fathoms  —  black  sand  — 
Extremes  of  the  Thermometer  47°— 80?  Made 
this  day  1 3  miles  40  perches. 

Sunday  2i'.»  Thermometer  before  sun-rise  60°  Continue 
ascending ;  no  current  to  imped  us,  for  altho' 
there  be  a  feeble  current  along  the  principal 
thread  of  the  stream,  yet  as  this  is  deflected 
from  bend  to  bend,  we  easily  avoid  its  influence 
by  directing  our  course  from  point  to  point  or 
rather  passing  a  little  under  the  points,  and  in 
fact  where  there  is  any  current,  a  compensation 
is  found  by  the  counter  current  or  eddy  under 
the  points.  The  river  is  now  only  80  yards  wide; 
the  timber  becomes  larger,  the  banks  in  some 
places  40  feet  high,  yet  liable  to  inundation,  not 
from  the  floods  of  this  small  river,  but  from  the 
intrusion  of  its  more  powerful  neighbour  the 
Missisippi :  The  lands  decline  rapidly  (as  in  all 
alluvial  countries)  from  the  margin  to  the  Cy- 
press swamps,  where  more  or  less  water  stag- 
nates all  the  year  round.  The  current  of  the 
river  is  still  so  insensible  even  in  the  thread  of 
stream,  that  we  take  no  account  of  it :  at  8^  a.m. 
we  arrived  at  an  Island,  small  but  elevated,  said 

to 


[  13  ] 

to  be  the  only  one  in  this  river  for  more  than  ("1804 
100  leagues  ascending.  On  the  left  bank  near  I ^^^^^^'^ 
the  Island  is  a  small  settlement  commenced  by 
a  man  and  his  wife :  a  covered  frame  of  rough 
poles  without  walls  serves  for  a  house,  and  a 
Couple  of  acres  of  indian  corn  had  been  culti- 
vated, which  suffices  to  stock  their  little  maga- 
zine with  bread  for  the  year ;  the  forest  supplies 
Venison,  Bear,  turkey  &c,  the  river  fowl  and 
fish  ;  the  skins  of  the  wild  animals  and  an  abun- 
dance of  the  finest  honey  being  carried  to  market 
enables  the  new  settler  to  supply  himself  largely 
with  all  other  necessary  articles ;  in  a  year  or 
two  he  arrives  at  a  state  of  independence,  he 
purchases  horses,  cows  &  other  domestic  animals, 
perhaps  a  slave  also  who  shares  with  him  the 
labours  and  the  productions  of  his  fields  &  of 
the  adjoining  forests.  How  happy  the  contrast, 
when  we  compare  the  fortune  of  the  new  settler 
in  the  U.  S.  with  the  misery  of  the  half  starving, 
oppressed  and  degraded  Peasant  of  Europe  !  !  — 
The  banks  here  are  not  less  than  40  feet  above 
the  present  level  of  the  river  water  and  but  rarely 
overflowed ;  the  nearest  road  to  the  high  lands 
at  the  Rapid-settlement  on  the  red  river,  nearly 
west  is  said  to  be  40  miles  thro'  an  inundated 
alluvial  country  ;  it  is  probable  the  direct  dis- 
tance does  not  much  exceed  one  half,  the  nu- 
merous lakes  in  the  overflowed  lands  rendering 
the  road  very  circuitous :  both  banks  are  clothed 

with 


[  H] 

1804  1  with  rich  Cane-brake,  pierced  by  many  creeks 
October  J  £j  ^q  carry  boats  during  the  inundation :  saw- 
many  Cormorants  and  the  stately  Hooping 
Crane :  Geese  and  Ducks  not  yet  abundant ; 
they  arrive  in  myriads  with  the  rains  &  winter 
cold :  Landed  before  noon  to  observe :  we  had 
been  disappointed  at  the  hour  of  breakfast  by 
clouds  in  making  observations  for  the  magnetic 
variation  and  for  regulating  the  time  &  rate  of 
going  of  the  watch,  preparatory  to  the  lunar 
observation,  &  now  apprehended  the  same  dis- 
appointment, the  heavens  being  loaded  with 
flying  clouds  :  just  before  the  Sun  was  expected 
on  the  meridian,  a  dense  cloud  concealed  him 
from  view,  when  he  reappeared  he  was  already 
dipped  a  little ;  the  latitude  deduced  is  undoubt- 
edly too  far  North  31°  37'  52 '.5  the  sun  had 
therefore  not  attained  his  meridian  altitude. 

This  afternoon  found  the  shore  favorable  for 
tracking,  (i,  e.)  running  along  shore  &  towing 
the  boat ;  rate  of  going  by  log  a  little  improved 
5  perches  p!  5^  minute.  At  3^  p.  m.  thermf 
83°.  —  The  banks  have  a  regular  shelving  slope 
from  the  top  to  the  water's  edge  &  are  totally 
covered  with  the  most  luxuriant  herbage  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  5  or  6  kinds  of  strong  grass 
yielding  vast  crops  of  seed  nearly  mature,  upon 
which  Geese  and  Ducks  get  surprisingly  fat : 
we  shot  some  water  fowl  of  the  Duck  kind, 
whose  web-foot  was  partially  divided,  the  body 

covered 


[  IS] 

covered  with  a  bluish  or  lead  coloured  plumage;  ri8o4 
they  were  extremely  fat  and  excellent,  resem-  \  October 
bling  in  taste  the  Canvass-back,  The  teal  of 
these  rivers  is  also  very  fat  and  fine.  Wind  S.S.E. 
and  cloudy.  Encamped.  Extremes  of  the  ther- 
mometer 60°— 83''.  Made  this  day  14  miles  59 
perches. 

Thermometer  before  sun-rise  65?  Wind  S.S.E.  Monday  22? 
cloudy.  A  few  drops  of  rain  before  day :  set  off 
as  soon  as  we  could  get  the  men  ready  &  on 
board.  —  Soldiers  slow  in  their  movements  — 
continues  cloudy  &  threatens  rain.  Green  matter 
floating  on  the  river,  supposed  to  come  from 
the  Catahoola  and  other  lakes  and  bayoos  of 
stagnant  water,  which  when  raised  a  little  by 
rain  flow  into  the  black  river.  Saw  also  many 
patches  of  an  aquatic  plant  resembling  little 
Islands,  some  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
river,  and  others  adhering  to  or  resting  on  the 
shore  and  logs ;  examined  the  plant  &  found  it 
to  be  a  hollow  jointed  stem  with  roots  of  the 
same  form ;  extremely  light  with  very  narrow 
willow  shaped  leaves  projecting  from  the  joint, 
embracing  however  the  whole  of  the  tube  ex- 
tending to  the  next  inferior  joint  or  knot;  the 
extremity  of  each  branch  is  terminated  by  a 
spike  of  very  slender  and  narrow  seminal  leaves 
from  one  to  two  inches  in  length  and  Xo  o^  ^^ss 
in  breadth,  producing  its  seed  on  the  under  side 

of 


[  i6] 

1804  1  of  the  leaf  in  a  double  row,  almost  in  contact, 
Octoberj  ^j^g  grains  alternately  placed  in  perfect  regular- 
ity: I  have  not  been  able  to  detect  the  flower, 
so  as  to  be  able  to  determine  the  class  and  order 
to  which  the  plant  belongs,  it  is  not  probably 
new;  I  at  first  supposed  it  might  be  the  same 
which  is  described  by  Mf  Bartram  as  occupying 
large  portions  of  the  surfaces  of  rivers  in  East 
Florida,  but  upon  examination  I  found  it  to  be 
entirely  different. 

The  day  continued  cloudy ;  at  noon  it  rained, 
we  had  consequently  no  observation  for  the  Lat- 
itude. At  3*1  p.  m.  therm'  at  79°  —  the  afternoon 
continued  cloudy.  The  current  is  yet  insensible 
as  to  any  opposition  made  to  our  progress. 
Sounded  in  the  evening,  found  3  yi  fathoms,  the 
river  being  now  considered  very  low.  Extremes 
of  thethermy  65°-79°  Wind  S.S.E.  Cloudy  — 
made  i  3  miles  76  perches. 


Tuesday  23?  Thermometer  68° — the  riverfor  several  nights 
past  has  fallen  about  3  inches  perpendicular 
each  night :  observed  a  great  number  of  muscles 
and  periwincles  along  shore :  the  muscle  is  of 
the  kind  commonly  called  pearl-muscle,  &  by 
means  of  its  long  tongue  makes  considerable 
progress  along  the  bottom  &  upon  the  beaches 
of  the  river  when  under  water :  our  people  had 
a  quantity  of  them  dressed  and  found  them  to 
be  agreeable  food :   to  me  they  were  tough  and 

unpalatable. 


[  '7] 

unpalatable.  The  wind  altho'  a  head  but  not  f  1804 
strong,  we  got  along  pretty  well;  but  towards  I ^^^°^^'' 
11^  a.  m.  it  became  much  stronger,  and  we 
made  little  way.  Notwithstanding  the  cloudy 
state  of  the  atmosphere  we  were  fortunate  in 
getting  a  good  meridian  observation,  by  which 
it  appears  we  were  in  Lat:  30°  36'  29"  nearly 
3  miles  higher  than  the  town  of  Natchez  :  after 
dinner  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  the  Catahoola 
on  the  left  and  landed  to  get  information  from 
a  french  man  settled  here  :  he  has  a  grant  of  land 
from  the  Spanish  government,  has  made  a  small 
settlement  and  keeps  a  ferry-boat  for  crossing 
men  &  horses  traveling  to  or  from  Natchez  and 
the  settlements  on  red  river  and  on  the  Washita 
river :  the  Country  here  is  all  alluvial ;  in  pro- 
cess of  time  the  rivers  shutting  up  ancient  pas- 
sages &  elevating  the  banks  over  which  their 
waters  pass,  no  longer  communicate  with  the 
same  facility  as  formerly;  the  consequence  of 
which  naturally  is  that  many  large  tracts  for- 
merly subject  to  annual  inundation  are  now 
entirely  exempt  from  that  inconvenience :  such 
is  the  situation  of  a  most  valuable  tract  upon 
which  this  french  man  is  settled :  his  house  is 
placed  upon  an  Indian  mount  with  several  oth- 
ers in  view :  there  is  also  a  species  of  rampart 
surrounding  this  place  &  one  very  elevated 
mount;  all  of  which  I  propose  to  view  and 
describe  on  my  return,  our  situation  not  now 

admitting 


[  i8  ] 

1804  'I  admitting  delay:  the  soil  here  is  equal  to  the 
October  j  ^^^g^  Missisippi  bottoms  ;  the  proprietor  says  the 
high  mount  is  not  less  than  80  feet  perpendic- 
ular, of  this  we  shall  form  some  estimate  at  our 
return.  We  obtained  from  him  the  following 
list  of  distances  from  the  mouth  of  the  red  river 
to  the  Post  on  the  Washita  called  Fort  Miro. 


From  the  mouth  of  Red  river  to  the  mouth 
of  black  river  .  .  .  .  . 

To    the    mouths  of  Catahoola,  Washita  & 
Tenza  ...... 

To  the  River  Ha-ha  on  the  right 

To  the  Prairie  de  Villemont  on  the  same 

To  Bayoo  Louis  on  the  same  —  rapids  here 

To  Bayoo  Boeufs  on  the  same 

To  the  Prairie  Noyee  (drowned  Savannah) 

To  Pine  point  on  the  left     . 

To  the  Bayoo  Calumet 

To  the  Coal  mine  on  the  right  &  Gypsum  on 
the  opposite  shore   .... 

To  the  I'!  Settlement 

To  Fort  Miro 

Leagues 


10  Leagues 

22 
I 

5 
I 

4 
3 

^y^ 

3 
12 

22 
91. 


The  accounts  of  the  low  state  of  the  river  we 
receive  here  are  rather  discouraging,  as  it  ap- 
pears, that  on  the  first  rapids,  seven  leagues  dis- 
tant there  are  only  22  inches  of  water,  and  we 
now  draw  at  the  stern  30  inches  or  more. — 
Went  on  and  encamped  within  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Washita.  This  river  derives  its  appel- 
lation from  the  name  of  an  indian  tribe  for- 
merly 


[  19] 

merly  resident  on  its  banks,  but  now  no  more  f  1804 
to  be  found;  it  is  said  that  the  remnant  of  the  1^^^°^^'' 
nation  went  into  the  great  planes  to  the  west- 
ward &  either  compose  a  small  tribe  themselves, 
or  are  incorporated  into  another  nation.  The 
Junction  of  the  Washita  with  the  Tenza  and 
the  Catahoola  a  little  below,  all  together  form 
the  black  river,  which  last  here,  loses  its  name, 
altho'  our  maps  represent  it  as  taking  place  of 
the  Washita  :  the  Tenza  and  Catahoola  are  also 
names  of  ancient  tribes  now  extinct :  the  latter 
is  now  the  name  of  a  Creek  or  bayoo  i  2  leagues 
long,  which  is  the  issue  of  a  lake  of  the  same 
name  8  leagues  in  length  &  2  leagues  generally 
in  breadth,  it  lies  west  of  this  place  &  com- 
municates with  the  Red  river  during  the  time 
of  the  great  annual  inundation;  it  receives  at  the 
West  or  N.W.  angle  a  Creek  called  little  river, 
which  preserves  a  channel  with  running  water 
at  all  seasons,  meandering  along  the  bed  of  the 
lake ;  but  all  other  parts  of  its  superficies  during 
the  dry  season  from  July  to  november  &  often 
latter,  are  completely  drained  &  become  clothed 
in  the  most  luxuriant  herbage :  the  bed  of  the 
Lake  then  becomes  the  residence  of  immense 
herds  of  Deer,  of  Turkeys,  Geese,  Ducks, 
Cranes  &c  &c  feeding  upon  the  grass  and  grain ; 
the  Duck  species  being  generally  found  on  or 
near  the  little  river.  The  Bayoo  Tenza  serves 
only  to  drain  off  a  part  of  the  waters  of  the 

inundation 


[  2o] 

1804  1  inundation  from  the  Missisippi  low  lands  which 
Octoberj  ]^gj.g  communicate  with  the  black  river  during 
the  season  of  high  waters.  By  reference  to  our 
Latitude  at  Noon  we  find  the  mouth  of  the 
Washita  to  be  in  Lat :  3 1°  37'  sy"  —  Extremes 
of  the  thermometer  68°-73°.  Sounded  —  found 
6  fathoms  —  muddy  bottom.  Made  this  day  9 
miles  '/y}4  perches. 

Wednesday  24.^  Thermometer  before  sun-rise  54°  —  Wind 
North  —  Cloudy  —  Temperature  of  the  river 
water  71?  No  current  to  impede  our  progress 
worth  estimating.  Made  slow  advancement  as 
usual  with  our  oars;  found  the  shore  favorable 
for  tracking  or  towing,  which  mode  we  con- 
tinued nearly  all  day  making  at  the  rate  of  five 
perches  pf  }4  minute,  which  is  about  half  a 
perch  more  than  by  rowing :  a  boat  properly 
constructed  for  an  expedition  of  this  nature 
ought  to  advance  with  more  than  double  our 
velocity.  The  wind  was  contrary  all  day  other- 
wise we  might  have  gone  at  the  rate  of  6 
perches  which  is  equal  to  2^  miles  per  hour, 
more  might  be  performed,  but  our  Soldiers  seem 
at  certain  times  to  be  without  vigour  &  now 
and  then  throw  out  hints  that  they  can  work 
only  as  they  are  paid. 

The  high  lands  on  both  sides  have  now  the 
appearance  of  being  above  the  inundation  ;  the 
timber  is  such  as  is  generally  produced  upon 

high 


[  21  ] 

high  lands  chiefly  Oaks,  red,  white  &  black;  J 1804 
interspersed  with  a  variety  of  others;  the  mag-  1^^^°^^'' 
nolio  grandiflora  is  absent;  its  presence  is  an 
infallible  sign  of  lands  not  subject  to  inundation. 
We  observed  to  day  along  the  banks  the  strata 
of  solid  clay  or  marl  (not  recent  but  apparently 
ancient)  to  lie  in  very  oblique  positions,  some 
making  an  angle  of  nearly  30°  with  the  horizon 
&  generally  inclined  with  the  descent  of  the 
river,  altho'  in  a  few  cases  the  position  was  con- 
trary; timber  was  also  seen  projecting  from 
under  the  solid  bank,  which  last  seems  to  be  in 
some  measure  indurated;  it  is  unquestionably 
very  ancient  presenting  a  very  different  appear- 
ance from  the  recently  formed  soil :  the  river  is 
here  about  80  yards  wide.  The  Bayoo  Ha-ha 
comes  in  unexpectedly  from  the  right  about  a 
league  above  the  mouth  of  the  Washita,  and  is 
one  of  the  many  passages  or  issues  thro'  which 
the  waters  of  the  great  inundation  penetrate  & 
pervade  all  the  low  countries,  annihilating  for 
a  time  the  currents  of  the  lesser  rivers  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  missisippi.  Vegetation  is 
extremely  vigourous  along  the  alluvial  banks ; 
the  twining  vines  entangle  the  branches  of  the 
trees  &  expand  themselves  along  the  margin  of 
the  river,  in  the  richest  and  most  luxuriant  fes- 
toons, and  often  present  for  a  great  extent  a 
species  of  impenetrable  Curtain  varigated  and 
spangled  with  all  possible  gradations  of  Color 

from 


[    22] 

i8o4  \  from  the  splendid  orange  to  the  enlivening  green 
October  J  Jown  to  the  purple  &  blue  and  interwoven  with 
bright  red  and  russet  brown.  A  carpet  of  the 
finest  shrubbery  overspreads  the  elevated  margin, 
composed  of  a  variety  of  elegant  vegetables,  to 
many  of  which  probably  no  names  have  yet 
been  assigned  by  the  Botanist ;  and  in  positions 
where  the  shade  is  not  too  deep,  the  surface  is 
enameled  with  thousands  of  humbler  plants  in 
full  blossom  at  this  late  season. 

The  day  has  continued  cloudy  but  begins  to 
clear  away  about  1 1^  a.m.  we  therefore  landed 
before  noon  to  observe  &  found  our  Latitude  to 
be  31°  42'  30^.5 — The  timber  of  the  higher 
grounds  is  still  remarked  to  be  inferior  in  size 
and  height  to  that  on  the  Missisippi ;  but  here 
it  may  be  accounted  for  by  a  less  fertile  soil,  not 
apparently  (at  most  rarely)  subject  to  inundation. 
The  wind  still  continues  in  the  N.  or  N.N.W. 
but  the  clouds  are  disipating  and  tomorrow  we 
expect  fair  weather,  for  making  observations. 
Extremes  of  the  thermometer  54°— 68°.  En- 
camped after  completing  a  poor  days  voyage 
of   14  miles   48    perches.   Thermr  at  8^  p.m. 

o 

54.— 

Thursday  25'?  Thermf  in  air  49°  —  in  river  water  68?  Wind 
north.  Cloudy.  Continued  &  passed  Villemont's 
prairie  on  the  right  &  pine  point  opposite  :  the 
prairie  obtained  its  name  in  consequence  of  its 

being 


[  23  ] 

being  included  within  a  grant  under  the  french  ("1804 
Government  to  a  gentleman  of  that  name ;  some  1  October 
of  the  family  &  name  yet  remain  at  New  Orleans 
but  I  have  not  heard  of  any  claim  for  this  land ; 
many  other  parts  of  the  Washita  are  named  after 
their  early  proprietors :  the  french  people  pro- 
jected &  began  extensive  settlements  upon  this 
river,  but  the  general  massacre  planned  &  in 
part  executed  by  the  Indians  against  the  french, 
and  the  consequent  massacre  of  the  Natchez 
tribe  by  the  french,  broke  up  all  those  under- 
takings &  they  were  not  re-commenced  under 
the  french  government.  Those  prairies  are  planes 
or  savannahs  without  timber,  generally  very  fer- 
tile, producing  an  exuberance  of  strong  thick 
and  coarse  herbage.  When  a  piece  of  ground  is 
once  got  into  this  state  in  an  indian  country,  it 
can  have  no  opportunity  of  re-producing  timber ; 
it  being  an  invariable  rule  to  fire  the  dry  grass 
in  the  Fall  or  winter,  to  obtain  the  advantage 
of  attracting  game  when  the  young  tender  grass 
begins  to  spring;  &  thus  the  young  timber  is 
destroyed,  &  annually  the  prairie  gains  upon 
the  wood  land  ;  it  is  probable  that  the  immense 
planes  known  to  exist  in  America  may  owe  their 
origin  to  this  practize.  The  planes  of  the  Wa- 
shita lie  chiefly  on  the  East  side,  &  being  gener- 
ally formed  like  the  Missisippi  lands  sloping  from 
the  bank  of  the  river  towards  the  great  river, 
they  are  more  or  less  liable  to  the  influence  of 

inundation 


[24] 

i8o4  1  inundation  in  the  rear,  which  has  been  known 
Octoberj  ^^  advance  so  far  in  certain  great  floods,  as  to  be 
ready  to  pour  over  the  margin  into  the  Washita 
river  ;  this  however  has  now  become  a  very  rare 
case  &  it  may  generally  be  estimated  that  from 
^  mile  to  a  whole  mile  in  depth  will  remain 
exempt  from  inundation  during  high  floods  : 
and  this  is  pretty  much  the  Case  with  those 
lands  nearly  as  high  as  the  Post  of  the  Washita, 
with  the  exception  of  certain  ridges  of  primi- 
tive high  land  ;  the  rest  being  evidently  alluvial, 
altho'  not  now  subject  to  be  inundated  by  the 
Washita  river,  (which  has  originally  caused  their 
formation),  in  consequence  of  the  great  depth, 
which  the  bed  of  the  river  has  acquired  by 
abrasion. 

We  saw  a  good  deal  of  high  land  to  day  on 
either  bank  producing  pine  and  other  timber 
not  the  growth  of  inundated  lands.  About  a 
league  beyond  Pine  point  we  arrived  at  Bayoo 
Louis  on  the  right,  being  the  commencement 
of  the  rapids  or  rather  shallows :  Sent  people 
into  the  water  to  search  the  best  channel,  and 
after  being  frequently  aground  and  dragging  the 
boat  we  got  up  into  a  situation  about  a  mile 
higher,  where  we  were  in  a  manner  embayed, 
being  shut  in  by  a  gravel-bar  upon  which  there 
was  scarsely  in  the  deepest  part  a  foot  of  water  : 
finding  the  men  fatigued  by  being  so  much  in 
the  water  at  hard  labor,  we  thought  it  best  to 

rest 


[  25] 

rest  for  the  remainder  of  the  day  and  consuh  ri8o4 
upon  what  was  best  to  be  done. — The  bar  be-  \  October 
ing  of  inconsiderable  breadth  &  no  rock  in  the 
bottom  as  we  had  been  taught  to  expect,  it 
was  thought  best  to  cut  a  channel  sufficient  for 
the  passage  of  the  boat,  which  we  supposed 
would  take  less  time  than  unloading,  transport- 
ing &  reloading  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
our  present  station. — The  weather  continued 
damp  and  disagreeably  cold  all  day  :  we  had  no 
observation  at  noon.  Extremes  of  the  Therm' 
49°-6o?  Wind  at  North.  Clearing  up  —  many 
stars  to  be  seen  in  the  evening :  made  3  miles 
120  perches. 

Thermom'  in  air  40°  in  river  water  65°  —  Friday  26'!" 
Wind  N.W.  light  clouds.  The  morning  being 
very  cool,  it  was  thought  best  for  the  people  to 
take  an  early  breakfast  before  going  into  the 
water  to  work.  After  breakfast  commenced  dig- 
ging the  cannal  which  was  required  to  be  about 
an  hundred  feet  long :  this  business  went  on  hea- 
vily &  slowly  as  usual,  and  it  was  not  untill  noon 
that  it  was  made  barely  of  the  depth  which  it 
was  supposed  might  pass  the  boat. 

The  day  being  fine  made  some  observations 
for  the  regulation  of  the  watch  &  for  the  mag- 
netic variation,  and  at  noon  had  a  fine  observa- 
tion, from  which  the  Latitude  of  this  remarkable 
place  was  ascertained  to  be  31°  48'.  57".  5  —  a 

Httle 


[26] 

i8o4  1  little  way  up  the  river  ^^  of  a  mile  there  is  a 
October  j  high  ridge  of  primitive  earth  studded  with  an 
abundance  of  fragments  of  rock  or  stone,  which 
appears  to  have  been  thrown  up  to  the  surface 
in  a  very  irregular  manner,  the  stone  is  of  a  fri- 
able nature,  &  some  of  it  has  the  appearance 
of  indurated  clay ;  without  it  is  blackish  from 
being  exposed  to  the  air,  and  within  of  a  grey- 
ish white :  it  is  said  that  within  the  hill,  the 
strata  are  regular,  &  that  good  grind-stones  may 
be  obtained.  After  dinner  the  boat  was  moved 
into  the  channel,  where  she  stuck  fast.  Cables, 
ropes  and  pulies  were  got  across  and  fixed  to 
trees :  handspokes  were  used  to  raise  &  push 
her  along  and  we  made  some  way  thro'  the  bar, 
but  evening  coming  on  we  were  obliged  to  de- 
sist in  hopes  of  being  able  to  get  over  in  the 
morning.  Extremes  of  the  thermom'  40°— 70°. 
Wind  N.W.  Clear  star  light.  Discovered  a  barge 
coming  up  behind  us  ;  she  also  grounded  &  sent 
her  people  out  to  search  for  the  channel. 

Saturday  if^  Thermometer  in  air  32°  in  river  water  64° 
Wind  N.  Clear  above.  A  fog  upon  the  river, 
occasioned  by  the  condensation  of  vapor  arising 
from  the  surface  of  the  river :  the  morning  be- 
ing very  cold  with  a  hoar-frost,  the  people  were 
directed  to  get  their  breakfasts  and  prepare  to 
use  their  exertions  in  getting  the  boat  over  the 
shoal ;  the  day  proved  very  fine  with  an  agree- 
able 


[27] 

able  warm  sunshine,  but  it  was  i^  p.m.  before  f  1804 
we  got  entirely  over  into  floating  water  on  the  I  October 
opposite  shore,  the  men  having  upon  this  occa- 
sion exerted  themselves  to  my  entire  satisfaction. 
The  occupation  of  this  day  prevented  us  from 
making  any  astronomical  observations.  —  After 
dinner  we  pushed  on  and  arrived  at  the  last  of 
the  rapids  at  this  place ;  here  we  found  a  ledge 
of  rocks  across  the  entire  bed  of  the  river,  but 
having  previously  sounded  and  discovered  the 
best  channel,  we  got  over  into  deep  water  after 
grounding  and  rubbing  two  or  three  times  :  The 
river  became  again  like  a  mill-pond  without 
current,  excepting  a  motion  barely  perceptible 
along  the  concave  shore,  the  velocity  was  never- 
theless very  considerable  upon  the  shoals  where 
the  depth  of  water  was  small.  The  whole  of 
those  first  shoals  or  rapids  embraced  an  extent 
of  1 5^  miles ;  that  is,  the  obstruction  was  not 
continual,  but  felt  at  short  intervals  along  this 
space  :  Encamped  about  i  yi  mile  above  the  last 
rapid.  Extremes  of  the  therm!  3  2°-/ 3°  The 
evening  proves  fine  &  mild.  Therm!  at  8^  p.m. 
62°  Wind  North.  High  pine  land  on  the  right 

—  breadth  of  the  river  100  yards. 

Thermometer  in  air  40°  —  in  river  water  63?  Sunday  28'.'' 

—  Wind  N.W.  Clear — fog  on  the  river.  Con- 
tinued our  voyage  &  made  some  observations  for 
the  Longitude  &  magnetic  variation  at  the  hour 

of 


[  28  ] 

i8o4  1  of  breakfast.  High  lands  and  a  large  Savannah 
October  J  g^^j^  ^j^  ^.j^g  right  in  the  morning  passed  a  rocky 
hill  soon  after  and  *  Bayou  aux  boeufs '  on  the 
right  about  4  leagues  from  the  rapids.  At  noon 
got  a  good  observation,  Latitude  deduced  3 1  °  5  3' 
35".  5  —  at  3^  p.m.  the  thermom'  was  at  78°  in 
the  shade ;  the  day  was  warm  and  the  sun  power- 
ful :  observed  some  more  planes  to  the  left :  the 
river  made  several  returning  courses  to  day,  to 
the  southward  of  west.  Thermom!:  at  8^  p.m.  56° 

—  Extremes  40°— 73?  Sounded — 3  fathoms  — 
mud  &  sand.  Made  this  day  1 2  miles  116  perches. 

Monday  29'!"      Thermom^  in  air  41°  in  river  water  62°  Wind 
N.W.    Fog  on  the  river.  Continued  our  voyage 

—  The  banks  of  the  river  seem  to  retain  very 
little  alluvial  soil ;  on  the  opposite  shores  we  see 
frequently  to  the  water's  edge  the  high  land 
earth,  which  is  a  sandy  loam  of  a  greyish  light 
color  with  streaks  of  red  sand  &  clay ;  the  soil 
is  not  rich,  bearing  great  numbers  of  pines,  in- 
terspersed with  red  oak,  hickory  and  dog-wood. 
The  river  is  now  from  60  to  100  yards  wide. 
At  the  hour  of  breakfast  made  three  lunar  ob- 
servations, and  one  sun's  altitude  to  regulate  the 
watch,  which  with  the  observations  of  yester- 
day will  give  the  rate  of  going  of  the  watch 
proportioning  for  change  of  Latitude  and  de- 
parture as  we  advance  in  the  progress  of  our 
voyage ;   I  do  not  however  think  it  of  much 

importance 


[  29] 

importance  to  regard  those  observations  untill  ri8o4 
we  arrive  at  the  post  of  Washita,  which  I  sup-  I  October 
pose  to  be  nearly  the  most  easterly  point  of  the 
river ;  there  and  at  the  hot-springs  (the  most 
westerly  point  we  shall  visit)  we  shall  take  time 
to  make  correct  observations ;  all  other  points 
of  the  river  will  be  ascertained  with  sufficient 
precision  from  our  geometrical  survey  so  fre- 
quently corrected  by  the  Latitude.  At  Noon  we 
found  our  Latitude  to  be  31°  58'  2".    Having 
made  some  advantageous  alterations  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  our  benches  and  oars,  we  advanced 
with  a  little  better  speed ;  about  6  perches  p'  ^ 
minute  which  however  does  not  exceed   2%. 
miles  pf  hour  in  water  without  any  sensible  op- 
position from  the  Current.  The  wind  came  about 
to  S.W.  in  the  evening;  Therm'  at  8^  p.m.  62° 
Extremes  41°— 85°.  Soundings  —  3  fathoms  mud 
&  sand  —  made  this  day  14  miles  65  perches. 

Thermom'  in  air  47°  in  river  water  60°  Wind  Tuesday  30'.'* 
W.N.W.  Fog  on  the  river.  Clear  above.  —  Con- 
tinued our  voyage :  the  land  on  either  bank  seems 
to  be  from  30  to  40  feet  high  and  does  not  im- 
prove in  quality :  pine-trees  seen  in  most  situa- 
tions —  nothing  remarkable  occurred  except  a 
rapid  we  passed  in  the  afternoon,  formed  by 
a  ledge  of  rocks  which  traversed  the  river,  nar- 
rowing the  water  channel  to  about  30  yards, 
but  the  extent  between  the  high  banks  was  not 

less 


[  3o] 

1804  1  less  than  a  hundred.  At  noon  found  the  Latitude 
October]  ^^  ^^  ^^o  ^,  ^^, ^  j^  would  appear  from  the  dis- 
tances run  by  our  Log  and  time,  when  compared 
with  the  estimated  distances  by  the  french  in- 
habitants and  hunters,  that  their  league  scarcely 
exceeds  two  miles.  Encamped  near  a  sand  beach 
favorable  for  hauling  the  sene  &  catched  a  suf- 
ficiency of  fish  to  serve  all  the  people  for  supper 
and  breakfast.  Thermf  at  8!*  p.m.  60?  Extremes 
47°-83?   Made  this  day  15  miles,  150  perches. 

Wednesday  31'.*  Thermom!  in  air  44°  in  river  water  62°  Wind 
N.N.W.  Clear  —  fog  on  the  river  —  Continued 
our  voyage.  This  morning  met  with  shallow  wa- 
ter &  strong  currents,  our  rate  of  going,  deduct- 
ing the  velocity  of  the  stream  was  reduced  to  2 
perches  :  got  upon  shoals  about  8!"  a.m.  which 
detained  us  greatly,  and  impeded  us  more  or  less 
untill  the  afternoon  ;  at  noon  we  had  a  good  ob- 
servation ;  Lat :  found  32°  10'  i  3"  —  at  q}"  p.m. 
got  over  the  last  shoal  for  this  day  &  went  on 
in  good  water  untill  the  evening,  the  channel 
was  very  narrow,  the  sand  bars  at  every  point 
extending  so  far  into  the  bend  as  to  leave  little 
more  than  the  breadth  of  the  boat  of  water  suf- 
ficiently deep  for  her  passage,  altho'  the  water 
often  covered  a  breadth  of  70  to  80  yards  upon 
the  shoal :  in  the  afternoon  passed  a  little  plan- 
tation or  settlement  on  the  right  and  at  night 
came  up  with  three  others  joining  each  other  : 

here 


[  3'   ] 

here  is  a  plane  or  prairie  upon  which  those  set-  f  1 804 
tlements  are  placed;  from  the  regular  slope  of  t October 
the  land  from  the  river  bank  towards  the  east- 
ward, we  may  be  assured  the  soil  is  alluvial,  yet 
the  bed  of  the  river  is  now  so  deep  that  it  is  no 
longer  subject  to  that  inconvenience,  but  in  the 
rear  the  Missisippi  advances  &  sometimes  leaves 
dry  but  a  narrow  stripe  along  the  banks,  it  is 
however  now  more  common  that  the  extent 
of  the  fields  cultivated  (from  ^  to  ^  mile) 
remain  dry  during  the  season  of  the  inunda- 
tion :  the  soil  here  is  very  good  but  not  equal  to 
missisippi  bottoms;  it  may  be  esteemed  second 
rate.  At  a  small  distance  to  the  East  are  extensive 
Cypress  swamps,  over  which  the  waters  of  the 
inundation  always  stand  to  the  depth  of  15,  20 
&  25  feet.  On  the  west  side  after  passing  over 
the  Valley  of  the  river,  whose  breadth  is  various 
from  ^  to  2  miles  or  more,  the  Land  assumes 
a  considerable  elevation  from  100  to  300  feet 
and  extends  all  along  to  the  settlements  on  the 
Red  river ;  those  high  lands  from  report  are  poor 
&  badly  watered,  being  chiefly  what  is  termed 
a  pine-barren  :  there  is  here  a  ferry  &  a  road 
of  Communication  between  the  Post  of  the 
Washita  and  the  Natchez  &  a  fork  of  this  road 
passes  on  to  the  Settlement  called  the  rapids  on 
Red  river,  it  is  distant  from  this  place  by  com- 
putation 150  miles. 

From  the  experience  we  have  had  of  this 

river 


[  32] 

i8o4  1  river  and  the  information  obtained,  it  appears 
October  J  ^.j^^^  ^.j^g  present  is  the  least  favorable  season  for 
ascending  this  river  with  a  boat  of  so  consider- 
able a  draught  of  water  as  ours ;  the  spring  of 
the  year  is  the  most  advantageous,  the  Missisippi 
then  flows  up  into  the  beds  of  the  inferior  rivers, 
raising  their  waters  sometimes  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  top  of  the  banks ;  the  small  current  is 
then  often  in  favor  of  the  ascending  boat :  this 
objection  would  vanish  if  light  boats  were  used 
drawing  only  6  or  8  inches  of  water  &  if  well 
constructed  might  make  with  ease  i2  leagues 
or  even  40  miles  p!  day ;  such  ought  to  be  the 
kind  of  boats  for  an  expedition  fitted  out  to 
explore ;  as  little  time  as  possible  ought  to  be 
lost  in  moving,  that  more  may  be  left  for  obser- 
vation and  research :  in  our  actual  situation  our 
dayly  progress  seldom  equals  14  or  15  miles, 
which  is  a  sad  drawback  upon  the  accomplish- 
ment of  the  objects  of  an  exploring  expedition. 
On  this  part  of  the  river  lies  a  considerable  grant 
of  Land  conceded  by  the  Spanish  Government 
to  the  Marquis  of  Maison  rouge  a  french  emi- 
grant, who  bequeathed  it  with  all  his  property 
to  M.  Bouligny  son  of  the  late  Colonel  of  the 
Louisiana  regiment  &  by  him  sold  to  Daniel 
Clark ;  it  is  said  to  extend  from  the  post  of  the 
Washita  with  a  breadth  of  two  leagues  includ- 
ing the  river  down  to  the  bayou  Calumet,  the 
computed  distance  of  which  along  the  river  is 

called 


[  33] 

called  30  leagues,  but  said  to  be  not  more  than  ri8o4 
12  in  a  direct  line.  Extremes  of  the  thermom^  [October 
44°-84?   Made  this  day  6  miles  165  perches. 

Thermom!  in  air  48?  in  river  water  62° —  fNovembcr 
Calm — clear  above,  a  little  fog  on  the  river.  i^^"''^'^^>'  ^ 
Having  sounded  last  evening  a  shoal  upon 
which  there  is  18  inches  water  in  the  deepest 
place,  we  prepared,  by  unloading  part  of  our 
Cargo,  to  cross  it  :  we  obtained  the  use  of  two 
Canoes,  which  with  a  good  deal  of  trouble 
enabled  us  to  get  over  about  noon  :  finding  a  Ca- 
noe so  useful  &  being  informed  of  other  rapids 
and  shoals  before  us,  we  bartered  away  a  smaller 
canoe  with  a  little  cash  for  the  larger  of  the 
two  we  had  borrowed,  proposing  to  put  two 
of  our  best  hunters  into  the  empty  Canoe  by 
which  they  might  keep  a  head  &  procure  some 
game,  &  be  ready  on  all  emergencies  to  assist  the 
Barge.  Dined  &  continued  our  voyage ;  met 
with  several  retardments  from  shoals.  Made 
only  4  miles  1 1 5  perches.  Extremes  of  the 
thermom!  48°-85°  at  8^  p.m.  64°  Weather  ex- 
tremely fine  &  agreeable,  the  slow  progress  of 
our  boat  being  the  only  circumstance  of  regret, 
as  tending  to  disappoint  our  prospects. 

Thermom'  in  air  48°  in  river  water  62°  light  Friday  2^. 
clouds — Wind  S.S.E.  a  little  fog  on  the  river. — 
Continued  our  voyage  with  immense  sand  bars 

in 


[34] 

1 8 04  1  in  view  at  every  point :  the  utmost  care  in  steer- 
Novemberj  -j^g  ^^g  necessary  to  keep  clear  of  shoals  and 
sunken  logs,  vv^hich  latter  were  frequently  very 
embarrassing  :  we  suffered  much  detention  this 
day  from  those  causes,  being  twice  fast  upon 
a  sunken  log  under  water,  and  our  boat  being 
so  unwieldy  &  heavy,  there  was  no  getting  her 
off  by  any  exertion  of  poles  &c  which  could 
be  made  on  board,  a  rope  was  carried  ashore 
from  the  stern,  &  by  that  means  she  was  hove 
backwards  &  cleared  of  the  log :  we  lost  i  ^ 
hour  each  time  by  two  such  accidents,  &  sev- 
eral times  got  upon  shoals  which  delayed  us 
greatly :  light  flat  boats  proper  for  the  naviga- 
tion of  shallow  waters  would  pass  over  all  such 
obstacles  without  touching,  &  when  they  do 
touch,  being  light,  they  are  easily  pushed  back  ; 
external  keels  are  very  improper  for  any  boat 
upon  the  missisippi  or  any  river  where  logs  are 
to  be  encountered :  our  boat  to  her  other  in- 
conveniencies  was  provided  with  a  keel,  which 
added  to  her  draught  of  water,  made  her  much 
more  difficult  to  get  over  a  log  or  shoal,  it  being 
impossible  to  clear  her  by  pushing  latterally. 
Therm!  at  8^  p.m.  78°  Extremes  48°-84°  Made 
this  day  8  miles  104  perches. 

Saturday  3^  Therm!  in  air  52°  in  river  water  64°  Some 
light  clouds.  Continued  our  voyage  with  very 
little  variety,  a  great  sameness  appears  as  to  the 

river 


[  3S  ] 

river  and  its  banks.  Altho'  we  got  several  times  ri8o4 
aground  we  were  not  so  unfortunate  as  yester-  1^°^^"*^'' 
day;  immense  sand  bars  or  beaches  with  steep 
banks  on  the  opposite  shore  continued  to  be  the 
objects  of  our  view,  very  Uttle  alluvial  land  ex- 
cept at  some  points  opposed  to  Cliffs,  was  to  be 
seen :  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  many  hum- 
ble plants  are  to  be  seen  in  flower  at  this  late 
season,  altho'  the  leaf  falls  from  the  trees  of  the 
forest :  the  great  variety  of  tints  which  the  foli- 
age assumes  before  it  separates  finally  from  the 
parent  stock,  presents  to  the  Eye  an  infinitude  of 
beautiful  landscapes,  and  if  critically  examined 
is  perhaps  not  without  its  use :  it  will  be  found 
that  the  leaves  of  the  same  tree  are  all  changed 
to  the  same  Color,  which  is  probably  occasioned 
by  the  oxigen  of  the  atmosphere  acting  upon 
vegetable  matter  deprived  of  the  protecting 
power  of  its  vital  principle,  &  thereby  calls  forth 
its  latent  colorific  properties  :  I  have  always 
remarked  that  the  leaves  of  such  trees  whose 
barks  and  woods  are  known  to  produce  a  dye,  are 
changed  in  autumn  to  the  same  Colour,  which 
is  extracted  in  the  Dyer's  vat  from  the  woods 
more  especially  by  the  use  of  alumn  or  other 
mordant ;  whose  predominant  principle  yields 
oxigen  :  thus  the  foliage  of  the  hickory  &  the 
oak  yielding  the  quercitron  bark  is  changed 
before  its  fall  to  a  beautiful  yellow ;  other  oaks 
assume  a  fawn  colour,  a  liver  or  blood  colour, 

and 


[  36] 

i8o4  1  and  are  also  known  to  yield  dyes  of  the  same 
NovemberJ  complexion  :  I  am  persuaded  from  the  few  ob- 
servations I  have  made  that  this  rule  will  be 
found  general,  and  may  therefore  serve  as  an 
excellent  guide  to  the  Naturalist  who  directs 
his  researches  to  the  discovery  of  new  objects 
for  the  use  of  the  Dyer. 

At  noon  we  found  ourselves  in  Latitude  32^* 
1 7'  1 7"  —  nothing  remarkable  occurred  in  the 
afternoon,  except  a  discovery  made  by  D'  Hun- 
ter (walking  along  the  river  side)  of  a  substance 
resembling  mineral  Coal :  I  suppose  from  its 
appearance,  that  it  is  the  Carbonated  wood  de- 
scribed by  Kirwan  and  other  Chemists :  some 
specimens  were  preserved ;  it  does  not  easily 
burn,  but  on  being  applied  to  the  flame  of  a 
candle,  it  seemed  to  encrease  it  &  yielded  a  faint 
smell  resembling,  in  a  slight  degree  that  of  the 
gum-lack  of  common  sealing  wax.  In  the  even- 
ing passed  over  some  rapids  and  shoals  ;  bottom 
stone  &  gravel.  Thermom!  at  8^  p.m.  72°  Ex- 
tremes 52°-86°  Made  this  day  11  miles  140 
perches. 

Sunday  4'.''  Thermom'  in  air  54°  in  river  water  64°  Clear. 
This  has  been  an  unfortunate  day ;  the  morning 
and  afternoon  were  spent  upon  shoals  and  rapids 
with  stoney  &  gravelly  bottoms,  the  Men  hav- 
ing been  a  great  part  of  the  time  in  the  water. 
Got  a  good  observation  at  noon ;  Latitude  found 

o 

32 


[37] 

32°  2i'  lo".  Made  only  4  miles  233  perches,  f  1804 
Thermom!  at  S^  p.m.  63°  Extremes  54-83.       iNovember 

Therms  in  air  52°  in  river  water  62°  heavy  Monday  5'^ 
fog  &  damp  air.  We  were  obliged  this  morning 
to  take  out  part  of  our  loading  to  enable  us  to 
pass  over  a  shoal  carrying  only  1 8  inches  w^ater, 
which  detained  us  untill  near  10^  a.m.  —  In  the 
course  of  the  day  got  upon  several  shoals  of  in- 
ferior note,  but  upon  the  whole  we  were  more 
fortunate  than  usual,  the  water  being  generally 
deeper  and  with  little  current.  We  remarked  a 
greater  appearance  of  fertility  as  we  approached 
the  Settlement ;  the  trees  are  of  larger  dimen- 
sions, &  there  is  a  due  proportion  of  shrub  or 
underwood,  which  was  absent  in  the  poorer 
lands ;  some  fields  of  Cane  began  to  appear, 
which  is  a  sure  indication  of  a  fertile  soil :  we 
had  also  leisure  to  admire  the  beautiful  tints 
assumed  by  the  foliage  of  the  vegitable  world : 
it  was  apparent  that  the  external  leaves  most 
exposed  to  the  light  &  to  a  freer  circulation  of 
air,  exhibited  the  first  changes  of  Color,  while 
those  of  the  same  plant  under  a  thick  shade  still 
retained  their  deep  verdure.  The  Willow  tree 
pendent  over  the  water,  presents  a  fine  deep  yel- 
low along  the  outline  of  the  plant,  from  whence 
may  be  traced  a  regular  gradation,  thro'  the  ad- 
mired lemon  color  down  to  the  soft  and  delicate 
summer's  green,  which  last  in  the  shade,  retains 

its 


[38] 

i8o4  1  its  full  verdure :  on  other  trees  may  be  seen  a 
November  J  jjggp  blood  color  inclining  to  black,  descend- 
ing by  regular  shades  to  the  palest  pink  mingled 
with  green  &  from  thence  by  similar  gradation 
to  the  usual  summer  verdure  of  the  plant :  Leaves 
plucked  from  the  tree  at  this  season  &  preserved 
in  the  shade  w^ill  retain  their  beautiful  colors  for 
a  great  length  of  time. 

The  river  continues  of  the  same  general 
breadth,  i.  e.  from  80  to  100  yards,  but  the  wa- 
ter channel  is  often  confined  to  30  yards.  The 
Atmosphere  had  this  day  a  smokey  or  misty 
appearance;  the  Sun  broke  forth  a  little  in  the 
afternoon,  but  shone  with  diminished  lusture. 
This  smokey  or  misty  appearance  which  in  our 
Country  is  common  in  the  months  of  november 
and  december  is  attributed  to  a  common  practize 
of  the  Indians  and  Hunters,  of  firing  the  woods, 
planes  or  savannahs;  the  flames  often  extend- 
ing themselves  some  hundred  of  miles,  before 
the  fire  is  extinguished ;  it  is  observed  that  rain 
always  follows  those  conflagrations ;  sometimes 
the  condensation  of  the  smoke  occasions  a  fine 
rain  resembling  a  fog  or  thick  dew,  but  at  other 
times  the  rain  is  impetuous  accompanied  by 
thunder  &  lightening  &  immediately  after  it 
clears  up  fine,  but  not  always  without  a  contin- 
uation of  the  blue  misty  appearance  of  the  At- 
mosphere. 

Soft  friable  stone  is  frequently  seen  and  great 

loads 


[39] 

loads  of  gravel  and  sand  upon  the  beaches ;  red-  ri8o4 
dish  Clay  appears  in  strata  much  indurated  and  1^°^^"^°^'' 
blackened  by  exposure  to  light  and  air.  —  The 
water  of  this  river  is  extremely  agreeable  to 
drink  and  much  clearer  than  that  of  the  Ohio ; 
in  this  respect  it  is  very  unlike  its  two  neigh- 
bours the  arcansa  and  red  rivers ;  whose  waters 
are  extremely  charged  with  earthy  matter  of 
a  reddish  brown  color,  giving  to  the  water  a 
chocolate-like  appearance ;  &  when  those  rivers 
are  low  their  waters  are  not  potable,  being  ex- 
tremely brakish,  from  the  great  number  of  salt 
springs  flowing  into  them  &  very  probably  from 
the  beds  of  rock-salt  over  which,  (it  has  been 
reported)  they  flow :  the  inconvenience  from  this 
cause,  to  voyagers,  is  not  so  great  as  might  be 
apprehended,  as  it  appears  that  brooks  &  springs 
of  fine  water  falling  into  those  rivers,  particu- 
larly the  arcansa,  are  very  frequent,  and  may  be 
met  with  often  in  the  course  of  a  days  progress. 
—  Altho'  the  water  of  the  Washita  river  does 
not  exhibit  any  saline  impregnation,  yet  from 
report  there  are  many  situations  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood where  salt  may  be  procured  by  dig- 
ging pits  in  the  places  called  salt-licks,  where 
water  is  found  equally  strong  with  sea- water;  we 
expect  to  examine  some  of  those  on  our  way 
upwards.  Thermom'  at  8^  p.m.  58°  Extremes 
52°-68°  Wind  at  N.W.  Made  this  day  1 1  miles 
276  perches. 

Thermomi; 


i8o4 
November 


[40] 

Thermom'  45°  in  air  —  in  river  water  64°  — 
PJovemDer  1  j^g^yy  fQg  Wind  W.  Continued  our  voyage  w^ith 
6tb  J  better  fortune ;  that  is,  we  escaped  any  consid- 

erable obstructions  from  rapids  and  sand  bars. 
No  variety  was  to  be  seen  in  the  appearance  of 
the  Country  on  either  side  the  river.  At  noon 
got  a  fine  observation  about  a  league  below  the 
Post  of  Washita;  Latitude  deduced  32°  28' 58"; 
by  the  sinuosities  of  the  river  it  appears  we  are 
not  more  than  a  mile  to  the  south  of  it :  arrived 
there  about  3^^  p.m.  and  were  very  politely 
received  by  Lieu*  Bowmar,  who  immediately 
offered  us  the  hospitality  of  his  Dwelling  with 
all  the  services  in  his  power.  The  Position  called 
Fort  Miro  being  the  property  of  a  private  per- 
son, who  was  formerly  civil  commandant  here, 
the  Lieutenant  has  taken  post  about  400  yards 
lower  and  has  built  himself  some  log-houses  and 
enclosed  them  with  a  slight  stockade :  this  young 
officer  exclusive  of  the  manners  of  a  polite  Gen- 
tleman, appears  to  possess  talents  ;  he  has  formed 
a  tollerably  good  chart  of  the  river  from  its 
mouth  to  the  Post,  being  the  result  of  his  own 
labors  on  the  way  up  to  take  possession  of  the 
Post,  this  he  has  continued  upwards  from  the 
best  information  he  has  been  able  to  obtain ; 
the  whole  gives  a  satisfactory  idea  of  the  river 
&  part  of  the  Country ;  we  have  also  obtained 
some  further  information  from  the  former  Com- 
mandant a  french  man,  and  other  persons  here, 

of 


[41  ] 

of  all  which  we  have  made  notes  &  shall  avail  ri8o4 
ourselves  in  the  prosecution  of  our  voyage.  [November 

Thermom^at  8^  p.m.  Extremes  45°-79?  Made 
this  day  9  miles  257  perches;  amounting  in  the 
whole  to  196  miles  256  perches  from  the  mouth 
of  the  red  river  to  the  Post  of  the  Washita  ;  and 
by  the  old  computation  90  leagues. 

Thermometer  in  air  52°  in  river  water  64°  Wednesday  7*^ 
Clear.  Finding  from  past  experience  that  the 
boat  in  which  we  have  come  up,  would  be  im- 
proper for  the  continuation  of  our  voyage,  we 
made  enquiry  this  morning  for  other  craft,  but 
it  appears  there  is  no  great  choice  of  boats  at 
this  place  ;  prepared  also  for  astronomical  obser- 
vation :  being  greatly  interrupted  by  visitants 
who  came  to  offer  services  &c  we  were  pre- 
vented from  making  any  useful  observation  un- 
till  noon  &  even  then  we  were  incommoded : 
the  Sun's  meridian  altitude  gave  the  Lat :  32° 
29'  5 2". 5  but  I  was  not  perfectly  satisfied  with 
this  observation  ;  from  the  Causes  mentioned  I 
suspect  the  altitude  was  taken  a  little  too  late, 
&  shall  hope  to  correct  if  necessary  by  future 
observations.  Therm'  at  8^  p.m.  67?  Extremes 
52°-8o? 

Thermomr   in    air    53°   in    river   water    58°  Thursday  Si*" 
Cloudy.  This  was  a  disagreeable,  damp  and  cold 
day  :  made  further  enquiry  for  small  boats  with 

little 


[42    ] 

i8o4  1  little  success;  found  only  one,  which  with  an- 
Novemberj  Q^i^gj-  ^f  ^he  same  burthen  might  answer  our 
purpose :  no  observation  made  this  day.  Upon 
viewing  the  Country  on  the  East  of  the  river, 
it  is  evidently  alluvial ;  the  surface  is  equal  with 
a  gentle  slope  from  the  river  towards  the  rear 
of  the  plantations  ;  the  land  here  is  of  excellent 
quality,  being  a  rich  black  mold  to  the  depth 
of  a  foot,  under  which  there  is  a  friable  loam 
of  a  brownish  liver  color,  which  very  probably 
will  itself  become  a  good  soil  when  broken  up 
&  exposed  to  the  influences  of  the  elements. 
Therm!  at  8^  p.m.  56°    Extremes  53°-6i° 

Friday  9'^  Thermom'  in  air  42°  in  river  water  61° 
Cloudy,  damp  &  cold.  Continued  our  search 
for  proper  vessels  and  heard  of  a  flat-bottomed 
barge,  which  we  expect  will  be  very  suitable, 
with  the  reduced  loading  we  intend  to  carry 
with  us,  the  boat  will  probably  draw  only  i  2 
inches  water :  no  observation,  it  being  dark, 
cloudy  &  disagreeable  all  day.  Extremes  of  the 
thermometer  ^2°-y2° 

Saturday  10'^  Thermom^  in  air  40°  in  river  water  58° 
Clear — calm — this  day  having  the  appearance 
of  being  fine  &  serene,  prepared  for  observation  ; 
and  in  the  course  of  the  day  took  altitudes  of  the 
Sun  for  the  regulation  of  the  watch  and  the 
magnetic  variation  :  at  noon  found  the  Latitude 

by 


[43] 

by  a  fine  observation  to  be  32°  29'  35",  this  dif-  [1804 
fers  from  that  of  the  y^  by  17";  I  give  the  pre-  "^  °^^"^  ^^ 
ference  to  the  result  of  this  day,  for  reasons 
already  mentioned ;  In  the  afternoon  took  dis- 
tances of  the  moon  from  the  Sun  to  the  w^est  of 
her  and  in  the  evening  took  distances  of  the 
moon  from  a  Arietis  to  the  east  of  her,  which 
may  be  considered  as  a  complete  series  for  the 
determination  of  the  Longitude. 

Having  hired  the  barge  and  agreed  to  give 
I  %  dollar  p'  day  for  the  use  of  her,  we  had  her 
brought  along  side :  She  is  upwards  of  50  feet 
long  &c  Sj4  feet  in  breadth  built  tollerably  flat, 
her  bottom  being  still  a  little  convex  &  being 
pretty  well  formed  for  running.  This  boat  with 
some  improvements  is  probably  the  best  form 
for  penetrating  up  shallow  rivers,  she  is  undoubt- 
edly too  long,  as  we  shall  certainly  meet  with 
short  turns  among  logs  &  perhaps  rocks,  the  pas- 
sage of  which  might  be  facilitated  by  a  shorter 
boat :  got  her  loaded  before  the  evening  with  a 
view  to  set  off  early  next  morning.  She  made 
some  water — found  about  bed  time,  that  she 
had  made  a  great  deal  of  water  ;  kept  her  baled 
all  night.  Thermom!  at  8^  p.m.  34?  Extremes 
4o°-72° 

Thermometer  in  air  24°  in  river  water  53°  Sunday  u? 
Clear  —  calm. —  Got  the  Barge  hauled  ashore 
and  caulked,  which  detained  us  untill  the  after- 
noon : 


[44] 

i8o4  1  noon  ;  got  another  good  observation  at  noon, 
November]  ^2iich  gives  the  latitude  32°  29'  30". 5  that  is 
43^  "  less  than  yesterday,  and  as  those  two  obser- 
vations were  both  very  good,  the  mean  of  the  tw^o 
results  may  be  taken  for  the  truth,  the  latitude 
of  the  place  of  observation  will  therefore  be  32° 
29'  3 2". 75  and  as  the  post  or  Garrison  lies  4^  " 
north  of  the  place  of  observation,  we  may  con- 
sider its  latitude  as  fixed  at  32°  29'  37".  25.  Set 
out  after  dinner  and  made  3  miles.  Encamped  at 
the  plantation  of  Baron  Bastrop.  It  appears  that 
this  small  settlement  on  the  Washita  &  some  of 
the  Creeks  falling  into  it  contains  only  500  per- 
sons of  all  ages  &  sexes  ;  it  is  reported  that  there 
is  a  great  deal  of  excellent  land  upon  several 
considerable  Creeks  falling  into  the  Washita  & 
that  consequently  the  Settlement  is  capable  of 
great  extension,  &  may  be  expected,  with  an 
accession  of  population  to  become  very  flourish- 
ing :  there  are  three  merchants  settled  at  the 
post,  who  supply  the  inhabitants  at  very  exor- 
bitant prices  with  their  necessaries ;  those  with 
the  garrison  &  two  small  planters  and  a  trades- 
man or  two  constitute  the  present  village :  a 
great  part  of  the  inhabitants  still  continue  the 
old  practize  of  hunting  during  the  winter  sea- 
son ;  their  peltries  go  to  the  Merchant  at  a  low 
rate  in  exchange  for  necessaries  ;  in  the  summer 
these  people  content  themselves  with  making 
corn  barely  sufficient  for  bread  during  the  year ; 

in 


[45  ] 

in  this  manner  they  always  remain  extremely  f  1804 
poor;  some  few  who  have  conquered  their  habits  [ November 
of  indolence  (which  are  always  a  consequence 
of  the  indian  mode  of  life)  and  addicted  them- 
selves to  agriculture,  live  more  comfortably  & 
taste  a  little  the  sweets  of  civilized  life. 

Thermom!  in  air  36°  — in  river  water  54°  —  Monday  the  12' 
Clear  —  Calm  —  Got  on  board  some  fresh  beef 
and  other  provisions  this  morning,  which  de- 
tained us  a  little.  Continued  our  voyage  with  a 
pilot  on  board  hired  at  the  rate  of  30  dollars  p!! 
month.  Met  with  several  shoals,  but  passed  over 
them  with  ease,  our  Barge  not  drawing  half  the 
water  of  our  own  boat,  &  being  also  very  light 
both  in  her  timbers  &  planks ;  the  appearance 
of  the  lands  along  the  river  is  not  very  inviting, 
much  pine  woods  upon  a  thin  poor  soil :  to  the 
right  the  settlements  on  the  Bayou  Barthelmi 
and  Siard  are  said  to  be  rich  lands.  At  noon  got 
an  observation ;  Latitude  32°  34'  47  ".  Made  this 
day  16  miles  32  perches.  Therm!  at  8^  p.m.  54° 
—  This  Evening  a  little  Cloudy. 

Thermom!  in  air  33°  in  river  water  55°  Fog  Tuesday  13*?' 
on  the  river.  Calm.  Continued  our  voyage  with- 
out change  in  the  appearance  of  the  Country : 
passed  an  Island  and  strong  rapid  at  8!*  a.m.  & 
arrived  at  a  little  settlement  where  we  halted  to 
breakfast  a  little  below  a  chain  of  rocks  cross- 
ing 


[46] 

i8o4  \  ing  the  channel  between  an  Island  &  the  main- 
Novemberj  j^j^j  called  Roquerau  —  great  misery  depicted 
in  the  Countenances  of  the  Spaniard  &  his 
family  inhabiting  this  little  settlement,  arising 
as  it  appears  from  extreme  indolence :  the  wind 
at  south  indicates  rain,  with  a  dark  cloudy  sky  : 
we  find  our  situation  greatly  improved  in  our 
new  barge,  being  able  to  go  about  3  miles  pi; 
hour  when  the  Men  use  a  little  exertion  :  we 
pass  without  difficulty  over  shoals  of  1 1  or  12 
inches  water.  The  river  acquires  a  more  spacious 
appearance,  being  in  most  places  about  150  yards 
wide.  Lost  some  time  on  the  shoals  and  at  half 
an  hour  past  noon  arrived  at  the  last  settlements. 
Began  to  rain  —  put  ashore  to  dine — cleared  up 
—  set  out  and  passed  the  mouth  of  Bayou  Bar- 
thelmi  on  the  right  at  4*?  p.m.  being  12  com- 
puted leagues  from  the  post.  Here  commences 
Baron  Bastrop's  great  grant  of  land  from  the 
Spanish  Government,  being  a  square  of  twelve 
leagues  to  each  side  ;  a  little  exceeding  one  mil- 
lion of  french  acres,  which  I  presume  is  more 
than  double  of  what  that  Government  granted 
to  all  persons  within  the  Missisippi  territory. — 
At  1 1^  a.m.  passed  Otter  Bayou  on  the  left.  The 
Banks  of  the  river  continue  to  be  about  30  feet 
high,  of  which  18  feet  from  the  water  are  a 
clayey  loam  of  a  pale  ash  colour,  upon  which 
the  river  has  deposited  an  alluvion  of  i  2  feet  of 
light  sandy  soil,  which  appears  in  most  places 

to 


[47] 

to  be  fertile,  being  of  a  brownish  dark  color.  J'1804 
It  seems  that  this  species  of  land  is  here  of  small  \  November 
breadth,  not  exceeding  half  a  mile  on  each  side, 
&  may  be  called  the  valley  of  the  river  Washita, 
beyond  which  there  is  high  land  clothed  chiefly 
with  pines. — The  Evening  is  cloudy  &  dark. 
Made  this  day  16  miles  312  perches  —  Ther- 
mom'  at  8^  p.m.  62°  —  Extremes  33°-66? 

Thermometer  in  air  44°  in  river  water  ^^° — Wednesday  i^^ 
Clear  —  calm.  Continued  our  voyage,  the  soil 
seems  to  be  thin ;  the  growth  of  the  timber  is 
small.  We  made  small  progress,  being  opposed 
by  a  head  wind.  Passed  the  *  Bayou  des  buttes'  in 
the  forenoon  ;  this  Creek  derives  its  name  from 
a  vast  number  of  Indian  mounts  discovered  by 
the  hunters  along  its  course :  we  were  detained 
an  hour  extraordinary  at  breakfast,  from  the 
necessity  of  repairing  the  rudder  irons  damaged 
going  over  a  rocky  flat.  The  margin  of  the  river 
is  clothed  with  such  timber  as  generally  grows 
on  inundated  lands,  particularly  a  species  of  the 
white  oak  called  vulgarly  the  overcup-oak ;  its 
timber  is  remarkably  hard,  solid,  ponderous  and 
durable,  and  it  produces  a  large  acorn  in  very 
great  abundance  upon  which  the  Bear  feeds ; 
it  is  also  very  fattening  for  Hogs. 

At  noon  got  a  good  observation  &  found  the 
latitude  to  be  32°  50'  8". 5  —  after  dinner  passed 
a  long  narrow  Island.  The  face  of  the  Country 

begins 


[48  ] 

i8o4  1  begins  to  change;  the  banks  are  low  and  steep, 
November  J  ^j^^  ^j^^  river  generally  deeper  and  much  con- 
tracted, being  from  30  to  50  yards  wide ;  this 
low  Country  is  2  or  3  leagues  wide  on  each  side 
of  the  river,  liable  to  overflow  12  or  15  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  land,  the  soil  is  a  very 
sandy  loam  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  river, 
&  covered  by  such  vegetables  as  are  found  on  the 
inundated  lands  of  the  Missisippi ;  in  short  this 
tract  presents  every  appearance  of  a  newly  cre- 
ated soil,  very  different  from  what  we  passed 
below :  it  may  be  supposed  that  there  existed  a 
great  Lake  within  the  space  now  occupied  by 
this  alluvial  tract,  which  may  have  been  drained 
off  by  a  natural  Canal  worn  out  by  the  abrasion 
of  the  waters,  and  that  since  that  period,  the 
annual  inundations  have  been  replenishing  this 
space  with  the  alluvion  of  its  waters;  18  or  20 
feet  of  soil  perpendicular  is  yet  wanting  to  ren- 
der it  a  fit  habitation  for  man ;  it  appears  never 
the  less  to  be  well  peopled  by  the  beasts  of  the 
forest,  several  of  which  presented  themselves  to 
view,  but  they  must  all  retire  to  the  high  lands 
during  the  season  of  the  inundation.  We  now 
begin  to  see  quantities  of  water  fowl  which  are 
not  generally  very  numerous  untill  the  cold  rains 
and  frost  drive  them  to  us  from  the  northward. 
Fish  is  not  so  abundant  in  this  river  as  might  be 
expected  ;  at  the  post  we  were  informed  that  the 
river  had  been  extremely  full  of  fish  untill  the 

year 


[49] 

year  1799,  when  the  waters  of  the  inundation  f  1804 
of  the  Missisippi  dammed  up  the  Washita  river  [November 
some  distance  above  the  Post  and  produced  a  stag- 
nation and  consequent  corruption  of  the  waters, 
which  destroyed  all  the  fish  within  the  influence 
of  this  cause.  The  river  continues  to  be  con- 
tracted, seldom  exceeding  60  yards  and  generally 
deep  ;  no  current  is  felt  excepting  in  places  a  lit- 
tle shallower  than  the  rest.  —  Thermometer  at 
8*?  p.m.  44°    Extremes  44^-58°  Clear. 

Thermometer  in  air  38°  in  river  water  54° —  Thursday  15'?' 
Clouds  —  Calm.  Continued  our  voyage  thro'  a 
Country  of  the  same  appearance  as  yesterday. 
Passed  some  rapids  without  difficulty  —  the 
banks  still  continue  low;  from  ten  to  15  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  river ;  the  water 
marks  on  the  trees  from  1 5  to  20  feet.  Landed 
to  observe  about  90  yards  higher  than  the  upper 
point  of  the  Island  of  Mallet,  judging  that  we 
were  not  far  from  Lat.  33°  the  division  line  be- 
tween the  territories  of  Orleans  and  Louisiana  ; 
we  found  the  Latitude  by  a  very  good  observa- 
tion to  be  32°  59' 27", 5.  The  Island  of  Mallet 
is  on  the  right  of  the  main  channel,  and  the 
place  of  observation  being  90  yards  N  45°  E 
from  the  upper  point  of  the  Island.  Making  al- 
lowance for  the  breadth  of  the  river  (50  yards). 
Latitude  33°  may  be  found  from  the  above  data 
when  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  territories   may 

require 


[  5o] 

1804  1  require  it,  this  Island  of  Mallet  being  very  well 
Novemberj  jj^^own  to  the  Hunters.  Should  time  and  circum- 
stances permit  on  our  return,  a  2**  meridian  alti- 
tude of  the  Sun  may  be  taken  and  a  proper  mark 
set  up  in  Lat:  33? — In  general  the  bed  of  the 
river  along  this  alluvial  country  is  fully  covered 
by  water  from  bank  to  bank  &  the  navigation 
good,  but  to  day  at  3^  p.m.  we  passed  3  contigu- 
ous sand-bars  or  beaches  called  *  les  trois  bat- 
tures ' ;  &  at  three  &  a  half  hours  p.m.  the  *  bayou 
des  grand  Marais'  (great  Marsh  Creek)  on  the 
right :  passed  also  in  the  evening  on  the  same 
side  *  la  Cypriere  Chattelrau '  :  a  point  of  high 
land  approaches  within  half  a  mile  of  the  river 
on  the  right.  Thermom'  at  8^  p.m.  50°  —  Ex- 
tremes 33°— 60°.  Made  this  day  16  miles  42 
perches.  This  days  voyage  was  shortened  by  an 
indisposition  which  confined  me  to  the  tent  un- 
till  the  hour  of  breakfast. 

Friday  16'f'  Thermomf  in  air  38?  in  river  water  54°  — 
Cloudy — Calm.  Set  out  at  6^  58'  and  continued 
our  voyage,  the  wind  rises  northerly  against  us, 
nevertheless  we  make  7^  perches  p^  yi  min : 
whereas  with  our  former  boat  we  should  not 
have  exceeded  4  per :  still  however  our  improved 
progress  is  short  of  the  velocity  which  a  boat 
for  our  purpose  ought  to  attain ;  it  should  not 
fall  short  of  i  2  per :  p'  ^  min  :  which  would 
be  about  4)^  miles  p'  hour.  No  observation  to 

day 


[SI  ] 

day  the  weather  being  cloudy,  damp  and  dis-J'1804 
agreeable.  Between  1 1  &  1 2  o'clock  passed  on  \ November 
the  right  the  *  marais  de  la  Saline  *  (Salt-lick 
marsh)  There  is  here  a  small  marshy  lake,  but 
it  is  not  intended  by  its  name  to  convey  any 
idea  of  a  property  of  brackishness  in  the  lake  or 
marsh,  but  merely  that  it  is  contiguous  to  some 
of  the  licks,  which  are  sometimes  termed  *  Sa- 
line' &  sometimes  *  glaise,'  being  generally  found 
in  compact  clay  which  might  serve  for  potter's 
ware ;  the  bayou  de  la  Tulipe  forms  a  commu- 
nication between  the  lake  and  the  river :  there 
is  opposite  to  this  place  a  point  of  high  land 
forming  a  promontory  and  advancing  within  a 
mile  of  the  river,  to  which  boats  resort  when 
the  low  grounds  are  under  water :  a  short  league 
after,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  grand  bayou 
de  la  Saline  (Salt-lick  Creek)  on  the  right ;  this 
is  a  creek  of  considerable  length  &  tollerably 
good  navigation  for  small  boats,  the  Hunters 
ascend  it  to  an  extent  of  a  hundred  of  their 
leagues  in  pursuing  their  game.  They  all  agree 
that  none  of  the  springs  which  feed  this  Creek 
are  salt ;  it  has  obtained  its  name  from  many 
buffalo  salt  licks  which  have  been  discovered 
near  to  the  Creek.  Altho'  most  of  those  licks 
by  digging  will  furnish  water  holding  in  solu- 
tion more  or  less  marine  salt,  yet  we  have  rea- 
son to  believe  that  many  of  them  would  produce 
Nitre.  We  now  begin  to  observe  a  stratum  of  a 

dirty 


[52] 

1 804        1  dirty  white  colored  clay  under  the  alluvial  soil ; 

November  j  j.jjjg  ^j^y  jg  similar  to  what  we  observed  before 
we  entered  the  alluvial  tract ;  we  have  therefore 
reason  to  expect,  that  we  are  gradually  emerg- 
ing from  this  sunken  tract  &  shall  soon  ascend 
into  the  high  land  country.  Made  this  day  17 
miles  185  perches.  In  the  evening  it  began  to 
rain.  Thermom^  at  S^  p.m.  42?    Extremes  38°- 

51° 

Saturday  if}  Thermom'  in  air  40?  in  river  water  54°  — 
fog  on  the  river — calm  —  river  risen  2}^  inches 
during  the  night. 

Continued  our  voyage ;  the  low  lands  are  still 
alluvial,  at  least  to  a  certain  depth;  an  under 
stratum  of  clay  appears  in  many  places,  where 
the  banks  have  been  undermined  &  broken 
down:  we  remarked  that  since  we  entered  the 
alluvial  country  about  32°  52'  Lat :  we  have 
seen  no  long  moss  (Tilandsia)  altho'  this  low 
damp  country  seems  in  all  respects  well  adapted 
to  favor  its  production ;  upon  enquiry  of  our 
Pilot,  he  informs  us,  we  shall  see  no  more  of 
it ;  probably  its  limit  of  vegetation  northerly 
may  be  fixed  by  nature  near  to  33°  Lat:  Saw 
a  great  quantity  of  the  long-leaf  pine,  which  is 
frequently  found  in  rich  &  even  inundated  lands 
as  is  the  case  here ;  the  short  leaf  or  pitch  pine 
on  the  contrary  is  always  found  upon  arid  lands 
&   generally   in   sandy  &  lofty  situations ;   but 

our 


[53  ] 

our  Country  furnishes  it  in  a  hard  meagre  clay.  J'1804 
In  the  forenoon  saw  the  first  swan  which  was  1  November 
shot  by  one  of  our  hunters ;  it  was  a  soUtary 
one  whose  mate  had  probably  been  killed:  this 
is  the  season  when  the  poor  inhabitants  of  the 
settlement  of  the  Washita  turn  out  to  make  their 
annual  hunt ;  they  carry  no  provision  with  them 
but  a  little  Indian  corn,  depending  on  their  guns 
and  ammunition  for  the  rest.  The  Deer  is  now 
fat  &  their  skins  in  perfection ;  the  Bear  also  is 
now  in  his  prime  with  regard  to  the  quality 
of  his  fur  and  the  quantity  of  fat  or  oil  which 
he  yields,  he  has  been  feeding  luxuriously  for 
some  time  upon  the  autumnal  fruits  of  the 
forest,  such  as  pirsimmons,  grapes,  pawpaws, 
walnuts,  packawns,  hickory-nuts,  chinquapins, 
beech-mast,  a  great  variety  of  acorns  &c  &c ; 
it  is  however  well  known  (notwithstanding  the 
fancies  of  some  writers)  that  the  Bear  does  not 
confine  himself  to  vegetable  food ;  the  planters 
have  ample  experience  of  his  carnivorous  dis- 
position. He  is  particularly  fond  of  Hog's  flesh, 
but  no  animal  escapes  him  that  he  is  able  to 
conquer  :  Sheep  &  Calves  are  frequently  his  prey 
and  he  often  destroys  the  fawn  when  he  stum- 
bles upon  it ;  he  cannot  however  discover  it  by 
the  sense  of  smelling  notwithstanding  the  ex- 
cellence of  his  scent ;  Nature  has  protected  the 
helpless  young  by  denying  it  the  property  of 
leaving  any  effluvium  upon  its  tract,  which  pro- 
perty 


[  54] 

i8o4        \  perty  is  so  powerful  in  the  old  Deer :  perhaps 
Novemberj  ^^  ^^^  ^^^  1^^  generally  known  to  Naturalists, 

that  between  the  hoofs  of  Deer  &c  is  found  a 
sac  with  its  mouth  inclining  upwards ;  this  sac 
always  contains  more  or  less  musk,  which  by  es- 
caping over  the  opening  in  proportion  as  it  is 
secreted,  gives  to  the  foot  the  property  of  leaving 
on  the  ground  a  scent  wherever  it  passes :  during 
the  rutting  season  the  musk  is  most  abundant 
particularly  in  old  males,  which  may  often  be 
smelt  at  a  considerable  distance  by  the  hunters. 
The  Bear  unlike  to  most  other  beasts  of  pray 
does  not  kill  the  animal  immediately  he  has 
seized  upon,  but  regardless  of  its  strugles,  cries 
and  lamentations,  fastens  upon  it  and  (if  the  ex- 
pression may  be  allowed)  devours  it  alive :  the 
taste  of  Mr  Bruce  &  his  Abyssinians  may  have 
been  formed  upon  this  excellent  model.  — The 
hunters  count  much  of  their  profits  from  the 
oil  drawn  from  the  Bear's  fat,  which  at  New- 
Orleans  is  always  of  ready  sale,  and  is  much 
esteemed  for  its  wholesomeness  in  cooking,  be- 
ing preferred  to  butter  or  hog's  lard  ;  it  is  found 
to  keep  longer  than  any  other  oil  of  the  same 
nature,  without  turning  rancid :  they  have  a 
method  of  boiling  it  from  time  to  time  upon 
sweet-bay  leaves  which  restores  it  or  facilitates 
its  conservation.  At  noon  found  our  Latitude 
to  be  33°  13'  1 6". 5.  In  the  afternoon  saw  a  small 
Aligator,  which  we  did  not  expect  in  so  north- 
ern 


[  55  ] 

ern  a  situation;  passed  a  few  rapids  &  saw  cane  J'1804 
brakes  on  both  sides,  the  canes  of  a  small  size,  \  November 
which  demonstrates  that  the  water  does  not  sur- 
mount the  bank  above  a  few  feet:  the  river 
widens  &  a  number  of  sand-beaches  are  seen. 
Thermf  at  8^  p.m.  44°  —  Extremes  40°  — 41°. 
Made  this  day  15  miles  308  perches. 

Therm!  in  air  32°  —  in  river  water  52°  —  Sunday  iS'}' 
Serene — Calm — river  seems  rather  on  the  rise. 
Set  out  at 7!"  20' and  continued  our  voyage;  passed 
along  a  narrow  passage  this  morning,  about  70 
feet  wide ;  the  whole  of  the  water  of  the  river 
runs  thro'  this  passage  ;  on  the  left  the  old  chan- 
nel of  the  usual  breadth  leaves  an  interval  which 
becomes  an  Island  when  the  water  passes  along 
the  old  bed  of  the  river  during  freshes :  Came 
up  to  a  place  at  the  hour  of  breakfast  where  there 
is  an  appearance  of  some  clearing  called  *  Cache 
la  Tulipe'  (Tulip's  hiding  place)  this  is  the  name 
of  a  french  hunter  who  concealed  his  property 
in  this  place.  It  continues  to  be  a  practize  of 
both  white  and  red  hunters,  to  deposit  their 
skins  &c.  often  suspended  to  poles  or  laid  over  a 
pole  placed  upon  two  forked  posts  in  sight  of 
the  river,  untill  their  return  from  hunting;  these 
deposits  are  considered  as  sacred  and  few  exam- 
ples exist  of  their  being  plundered. 

The  banks  of  the  river  have  now  the  appear- 
ance of  the  high  land  soil,  with  a  stratum  of  3 

or 


[56] 

i8o4  1  or  4  feet  of  alluvion  deposited  thereon  by  the 
November]  j-jygj.^  ^.j^jg  superstratum  is  greyish  and  very  sandy 
with  a  small  admixture  of  loam,  which  indicates 
the  poverty  of  the  mountains  and  uplands  where 
the  sources  of  the  river  take  their  rise.  At  noon 
we  found  our  Latitude  to  be  33°  17' 13"  —  In 
the  afternoon  passed  on  the  right,  the  entrance 
of  a  bay,  which  within  must  form  a  great  lake 
during  the  inundation.  We  now  see  a  consider- 
able number  of  the  long-leaf  pine  tree;  the  canes 
along  the  bank  have  a  better  appearance  being 
much  larger  in  size,  this  indicates  a  better  or 
more  elevated  soil :  Canes  subject  to  be  inun- 
dated, i.  e.  the  land  to  be  inundated  3,4  or  5  feet, 
are  always  small  and  tough ;  they  grow  much 
finer  where  there  is  little  or  no  inundation,  pro- 
vided the  soil  be  rich  &  loose.  Passed  a  high 
hill  (300  feet)  on  the  left  clothed  with  lofty 
pine  trees.  Thermom'  at  S^  p.m.  ^y°  cloudy 
weather  threatens  rain.  Made  this  day  1 8  miles 
75  perches.  Having  been  much  indisposed  for 
some  days  past,  the  number  of  remarks  are  prob- 
ably fewer  than  might  have  been  made — I  still 
remain  in  the  same  situation. 

Monday  19^1"  Therm!  in  air  54° — in  river  water  54°  — 
Cloudy — Calm  —  river  at  a  stand.  Set  out  at  6!" 
56'  and  continued  our  voyage.  The  banks  pre- 
sent still  more  the  appearance  of  the  high  land 
soil,  the  under  stratum  being  a  pale  yellowish 

clay 


[  S7] 

clay  and  the  alluvial  soil  of  a  dirty  white  sur-  [1804 
mounted  by  a  thin  covering  of  a  brownish  veg-  t^®^^"^^^"^ 
etable  earth:  the  trees  begin  to  have  a  better 
appearance,  growing  to  a  considerable  size  and 
height,  tho'  much  inferior  to  those  of  the  allu- 
vial banks  of  the  Missisippi :  passed  the  *  bayou 
de  hachis  *  on  the  left  this  morning ;  points  of 
high  land  not  subject  to  be  overflowed  frequently 
touch  the  river,  the  valley  is  said  to  be  league  or 
more  in  breadth  on  each  side  of  the  river  :  passed 
some  pine  hills  on  the  left  called  *  Cote  deCham- 
pignole',  the  river  has  been  narrow  during  the 
course  of  this  day's  voyage,  not  exceeding  on  the 
average  from  50  to  60  yards.  Thermometer  at 
8!*  p.m.  62°  Extremes  54°-67?  Made  this  day 
18  miles  120  perches. 

Thermf  in  air  59°  in  river  water  54°  —  Cloudy  Tuesday  20"* 
—  Calm.  No  change  in  the  river.  Set  off  at  6^ 
48'  —  The  banks  of  the  river  appear  to  be  higher 
and  the  river  wider,  we  meet  with  a  number  of 
sand  beaches  and  some  rapids  but  good  deep 
water  between  them.  At  jyi^  a.m.  passed  a 
creek  which  forms  a  deep  ravine  in  the  high 
lands  and  has  been  called  *  Chemin  Convert '  — 
a  little  past  8!*  we  ascended  a  rapid  where  the 
water  was  confined  to  a  breadth  of  40  yards,  a 
little  farther  we  had  to  quit  the  great  channel  on 
account  of  its  shallowness  and  rapidity,  &  passed 
along  a  narrow  channel  60  feet  wide  :  without  a 

guide 


[S8] 

1804  'I  guide  a  Stranger  would  have  taken  this  passage 
November  j  £q^2.  Creek.  Between  1 1  and  1 2^  saw  analigator, 
which  surprised  us  much  at  this  late  season  & 
so  far  north.  The  Banks  (exclusive  of  the  large 
timber)  are  covered  by  cane  or  thick  under- 
brush, frequently  so  interwoven  with  thorns  and 
briars,  as  to  be  impenetrable,  untill  the  way  is  cut 
with  an  edge  tool :  we  see  also  some  species 
of  timber  not  common  below,  such  as  Birch, 
Maple,  holly  &  two  kinds  of  timber  to  which  no 
other  name  has  yet  been  given  but  *  Bois  du  bord 
de  I'eau*  (water  side  wood).  Pirsimmons  and 
small  black  grapes  are  plenty  in  some  situations  ; 
the  first  are  often  very  large  and  excellent,  the 
last  a  mixture  of  sweet  and  tart ;  those  are  also 
common  on  the  Missisippi.  The  weather  being 
cloudy  we  did  not  land  to  observe.  In  the  after- 
noon observed  some  feruginous  earth  on  the 
right :  the  margin  is  frequently  fringed  with  a 
variety  of  plants  &  vines,  of  the  latter  several 
species  of  the  convolvulus,  which  no  doubt  in 
their  season  ornament  this  river  with  their  ele- 
gant flowers.  Thermom'  at  8^  p.m.  54°  Ex- 
tremes 54°-62?  Made  this  day  18  miles  308 
perches. 

Wednesday  21V  Therm!  in  air  43°  in  river  water  54°  —  a  lit- 
tle fog —  calm.  Set  out  &  passed  a  hill  and  cliff 
I  GO  feet  perpendicular  crowned  with  lofty  pines 
called  *  Cote  de  Finn  *  (Finn's  hill)  a  chain  of 

high 


[59] 

high  land  continues  some  distance  on  the  left;  ri8o4 
the  cliff  presents  the  appearance  of  an  ash  col-  1  November 
ored  clay ;  passed  a  strong  rapid,  and  a  little  far- 
ther a  Creek  on  the  right  called  Bayou  d' Acassia 
(Locust  Creek) :  The  river  varies  here  from  80 
to  1 00  yards  wide ;  we  frequently  see  indica- 
tions of  iron  along  the  banks  and  some  thin 
strata  of  ore  from  ^  inch  to  3  inches  thick,  but 
no  other  metalic  appearance,  nor  indeed  any 
thing  uncommon  in  the  fossil  kingdom  ;  a  little 
cloudy  this  morning,  but  cleared  up  before  noon 
&  got  ashore  hastily  at  a  steep  inconvenient 
place  among  trees  and  brush,  and  had  a  tollera- 
bly  good  observation  notwithstanding  :  Latitude 
found  33°  29'  29".  The  day  proves  mild,  warm 
and  agreeable,  which  acted  as  a  restorative  to 
myself  and  others  who  had  been  indisposed  for 
some  days  past:  Thermy  at  3^ p.m.  72°  Altho' 
Ducks,  Geese  and  Turkeys  are  often  seen,  yet 
we  cannot  say  they  are  in  that  abundance  which 
from  report  we  expected,  and  they  are  so  shy, 
that  we  seldom  can  get  a  shot  from  our  large 
boat ;  but  by  sending  the  canoe  a  head  some 
game  is  procured ;  it  is  probable  that  higher  up, 
we  shall  be  more  successful.  Therm!;  at  8^  p.m. 
58°  —  Extremes  43^-72°  Made  this  day  18  miles 
36  perches. 

Therm!  in  air  40?  in  river  water  53°  —  Light  Thursday  22I 
clouds  —  calm.  —  No  change  this  morning  in 

the 


[  6o  ] 

1804  "1  the  general  appearance  of  the  country,  the  tim- 
Novemberj  j^gj.  gu^h  as  has  been  mentioned,  with  an  in- 
creasing proportion  of  holly,  birch,  maple  and 
beautiful  pine-trees;  at  io>^^  a.m.  came  to  the 
road  of  the  Cadadoquis  Indian  Nation  leading 
to  the  Arcansa  Nation ;  a  little  beyond  this  is 
the  Ecor  a  Fabri  (Fabri's  Cliffs)  80  to  100  feet 
high  :  it  is  reported  that  a  line  of  demarkation 
run  between  the  french  and  Spanish  provinces, 
when  the  former  possessed  Louisiana,  crossed 
the  river  at  this  place ;  and  it  is  said  that  Fabri 
a  french-man  &  perhaps  the  supposed  Engineer 
deposited  lead  near  the  cliff  in  the  direction  of 
the  line :  we  could  not  however  obtain  any  au- 
thenticated account  of  this  matter,  and  it  is  not 
generally  believed :  a  little  farther  is  a  smaller 
cliff  called  *le  petite  cor  a  Fabri'  (the  little  cliff 
of  Fabri)  ;  those  cliffs  appear  to  be  composed 
chiefly  of  ash-colored  sand  with  a  stratum  of 
clay  at  the  base,  such  as  reigns  all  along  under 
the  banks  of  this  river.  The  day  being  hazy  and 
cloudy  we  made  no  observation  for  the  Latitude 
at  noon.  In  the  afternoon  we  encountered  a 
great  many  difficult  rapids,  the  current  of  the 
river  being  frequently  confined  to  a  very  small 
space,  where  the  depth  of  water  is  but  barely 
sufficient  for  the  passage  of  the  boat ;  the  addi- 
tional rapidity  of  the  current  indicates  that  we 
are  ascending  into  a  higher  country.  The  water 
of  the  river  now  becomes  extremely  clear  and 

is 


[6i   ] 

is  equal  to  any  in  its  very  agreeable  taste  as  a  ri8o4 
drinking  water.  The  general  breadth  of  the  [November 
river  to  day  has  been  about  80  yards,  altho'  in 
certain  places  not  above  one  half  of  this  quan- 
tity. We  now  find  immense  beaches  of  gravel 
and  sand,  over  which  the  river  passes,  in  the  sea- 
son of  its  floods  with  the  rapidity  of  a  torrent, 
carrying  with  it  vast  quantities  of  drift  wood 
which  are  in  many  places  piled  up  in  prodigious 
masses,  lying  20  feet  above  the  present  level  of 
the  water,  and  points  out  to  us  already  the  danger 
of  ascending  or  descending  this  river  in  certain 
degrees  of  its  floods :  accidents  nevertheless  are 
rare  with  the  canoes  of  the  Country  ;  ours  is  the 
first  barge  of  so  large  a  size  that  ever  ascended 
this  river:  passed  a  very  intricate  rapid  in  the 
evening,  which  we  could  not  get  up  untill  we 
had  carried  a  rope  ashore.  Encamped  upon  an 
elevated  gravel  beach  :  Therm!  at  S^  p.m.  54° 
Extremes  40°— 68°  Made  this  day  14  miles  317 
perches.* 

This  day  an  unlucky  accident  happened,  which 
was  very  nigh  being  extremely  serious.  Doctor 
Hunter  was  employed  in  the  cabin  of  the  boat 
loading  one  of  his  pistols ;  he  held  it  between 
his  legs  upon   a  bench  with  his  head  almost 

*  It  must  be  expected  that  imperfections  in  our  reckoning 
must  arise  from  the  retardments  and  difficulties  met  with  on 
the  rapids  and  shoals  ;  compensations  for  lost  time  and  rate 
of  going  are  made  at  the  moment  when  the  best  judgement 
can  be  formed. 

over 


[62] 

i8o4  1  over  the  muzzel :  while  in  the  act  of  ramming 
Novemberj  ^q^^  the  ball,  the  pommel  slipt  from  the  bench 
&  the  cock  of  the  lock  came  with  force  against 
it,  which  giving  way  discharged  the  pistol,  the 
rammer  and  ball  passed  thro'  the  fingers  &  thumb 
of  the  right  hand  &  also  thro'  the  brim  of  the 
hat  within  little  more  than  an  inch  of  the  Doc- 
tor's forehead  ;  his  thumb  &  fingers  were  much 
torn,  but  no  bone  was  broken,  the  concussion  of 
the  head  was  most  severely  felt:  the  bottom  of  a 
new  powder  horn  (not  well  secured)  which  lay 
upon  the  table  was  forced  outwards  &  the  pow- 
der partly  spilt  upon  the  table,  which  providen- 
tially did  not  take  fire  altho'  the  wadding  was 
found  smoking  upon  the  table :  the  circum- 
stance of  the  bottom  of  the  powder-horn  being 
forced  outwards,  points  out  a  curious  efl^ect  of 
the  elastic  power  of  the  air,  viz  after  sustaining 
a  considerable  compression  the  returning  vibra- 
tion causes  a  partial  rarefaction,  &  at  the  same 
instant  the  common  air  confined  within  bodies 
involved  by  the  sphere  of  rarefaction,  exerting 
its  spring  to  restore  the  equilibrium,  forces  out- 
wards all  obstacles  not  sufficiently  secured  to 
resist  its  action.  The  Doctor's  wounds  were 
dressed  ;  he  sufl^ered  great  pain  and  debility,  but 
after  some  repose  felt  better  in  the  evening. 

Friday  23?       Therms  in  air  48°  in  river  water  54° — light 
clouds  —  calm.   River  upon  the  fall.   Set  ofl^  and 

continued 


[  63  ] 

continued  our  navigation  thro'  difficult  passages;  J 1804 
the  river  is  broken  into  a  number  of  small  streams  [November 
by  Islands,  short  turning  rapids,  sunken  logs, 
shoals,  bars,  and  every  impediment  to  be  expected 
in  our  situation,  and  this  continued  at  short  in- 
tervals during  the  whole  of  the  day,  so  that  our 
courses  and  distances  cannot  be  expected  to  be 
perfect ;  every  allowance  which  could  be  judged 
necessary  at  the  moment  was  made:  I  fortunately 
obtained  a  good  observation  of  the  Sun's  mer: 
altitude  in  the  interval  of  some  shifting  clouds  : 
Latitude  deduced  33°  41' 35'.  The  banks  of 
the  river  as  we  ascend  are  less  elevated,  being 
now  only  from  9  to  12  feet,  and  probably  the 
freshes  surmount  them  some  feet ;  we  passed 
a  great  number  of  high  &  low  gravel  and  sand- 
beaches;  on  those  were  to  be  seen  fragments  of 
stone  of  all  forms  &  of  a  great  variety  of  col- 
ors ;  some  highly  polished  and  rounded  by  fric- 
tion, and  may  have  belonged  to  the  mountains, 
rivers  and  oceans  of  a  World,  from  the  ruins  of 
which  the  Globe  we  inhabit  may  have  been 
formed.  The  banks  of  the  river  in  this  upper 
Country  suffer  greatly  from  abrasion,  one  side 
and  sometimes  both  being  broken  down  by  every 
flood.  We  saw  nothing  to  day  worth  noticing, 
no  change  being  observable  in  the  appearance  of 
the  lands  and  timber  along  the  hills  and  banks 
of  the  river :  we  found  on  a  gravel  beach  some 
fragments  of  the  same  kind  of  matter  we  found 

lower 


[64] 

1 804  1  lower  down  resembling  pit-coal ;  it  burns  with- 
Novemberj  q^^  ^Jaze  to  a  white  ash,  but  will  not  consume 
(in  common  temperature)  without  other  fuel : 
under  the  burning  glass,  it  emits  smoke  &  con- 
sumes, yielding  a  faint  smell  of  sealing  wax ;  it  is 
light  and  friable,  &  affords  very  little  evidence  of 
being  penetrated  by  bituminous  matter.  Therm! 
at  S^  p.m.  54°  Extremes  4 8°-/ 2°  Made  1 3  miles 
28  perches. 

Saturday  24'.*^  Therm!  in  air  48°  in  river  water  54°  —  light 
clouds  —  calm — river  at  a  stand.  Set  off  &  con- 
tinued our  voyage  thro'  a  country  in  all  respects 
similar  to  that  thro'  which  we  passed  yesterday, 
excepting  that  our  obstacles  from  strong  rapids 
are  considerably  augmented :  at  a  place  on  the 
left  called  *  Auges  d'Arclon '  (Arclon's  troughs) 
we  observed  some  laminated  iron  ore,  and  a  stra- 
tum of  tenacious  black  sand  shining  with  minute 
chrystals.  The  general  breadth  of  the  river  is 
now  80  yards,  tho'  in  many  places  greatly  en- 
larged by  Islands  &  shallows,  and  at  other  places 
contracted  to  80  or  100  feet.  The  river  is  now 
in  many  places  rocky  of  a  greyish  color  &  rather 
friable.  Observed  some  willow  very  different 
from  what  is  found  below  and  on  the  banks  of 
the  Missisippi,  the  last  is  very  brittle,  this  on  the 
contrary  is  extremely  pliant  &  resembles  the 
osier,  of  which  it  is  probably  a  species,  I  propose 
on  our  return  to  take  some  plants  along  with  us ; 

its 


[  65  ] 

its  foliage  is  now  of  a  golden  yellow  &  falling:  [1804 
we  also  found  some  of  the  larger  Whortle-berry  \  November 
in  fruit,  the  berry  is  of  a  Sub-acid  agreeable  taste, 
the  leaves  not  yet  fallen  of  a  beautiful  crimson. 
The  weather  being  cloudy  we  had  no  obser- 
vation at  noon  &  went  on  to  dine  at  the  forks 
of  the  Washita  and  Missouri  the  lesser ;  the  latter 
comes  in  from  the  left  hand  and  is  a  consider- 
able branch,  perhaps  about  ^  of  the  Washita : 
Hunters  often  ascend  the  little  missouri,  but  they 
are  not  inclined  to  penetrate  far  up,  because  this 
branch  reaches  near  to  the  great  planes  or  prai- 
ries upon  the  red  river,  which  are  often  visited 
by  the  lesser  Osage  Tribe  settled  on  the  river 
Arcansa :  These  last  frequently  carry  war  into  the 
Cadadoquis  tribe  who  are  settled  on  the  red  river 
about  W.S.W.  from  this  place,  and  indeed  they 
are  reported  not  to  spare  any  nation  or  people. 
They  do  not  come  upon  the  head  waters  of  the 
Washita,  because  they  are  surrounded  by  a  num- 
ber of  mountains  or  steep  hills  rising  behind  each 
other,  and  so  extremely  difficult  to  travel  over, 
that  those  savages  perceiving  no  desireable  object, 
do  not  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  river,  &  it  is 
supposed  to  be  unknown  to  the  nation :  The  Ca- 
dadoquis (or  Cadaux  as  the  french  who  are  fond 
of  abbreviations  generally  pronounce  the  word) 
may  be  considered  as  Spanish  Indians ;  They 
boast,  I  am  told  with  truth,  that  they  never  have 
imbrued  their  hands    in  the  blood  of  a  white 

Man: 


[66] 

i8o4        \  Man :  it  is  reported  (perhaps  falsely)  that  they 

November]  ^^^  excited  to  enmity  by  the  Spanish  officers  at 

Nacocdoches  against  the  Americans. 

We  are  told  there  is  a  mine  up  the  little  Mis- 
souri, it  is  said  that  the  stream  runs  over  a  bright 
splendid  bed  of  mineral  of  a  yellowish  and  whit- 
ish color,  it  is  most  probably  martial  pyrites: 
some  30  years  ago,  several  of  the  inhabitants 
hunters  worked  upon  this  mine  and  sent  a  quan- 
tity of  the  ore  to  the  Government  at  New  Or- 
leans, but  they  were  prohibited  from  working 
any  more.  Therm'f  at  3^  p.m.  59°  Extremes 
48°- 72°  Made  this  day  by  a  very  uncertain 
reckoning  11  miles  152  Perches. 

Sunday  25')^  This  morning  proved  very  rainy,  having  com- 
menced raining  before  day,  we  were  therefore 
constrained  to  continue  encamped :  a  cessation 
took  place  after  breakfast,  which  gave  us  some 
hopes  of  being  able  to  proceed,  but  this  was  not 
of  long  duration;  the  rain  recommenced  and  we 
remained  all  day  in  our  tents.  We  have  the  con- 
solation however  to  expect  that  the  river  will  rise 
a  little  in  consequence  of  the  rain,  which  will 
facilitate  our  ascent  over  the  shoals  that  are  to 
be  expected  above.  ThermV  at  8^  p.m.  62°  Ex- 
tremes 54°-  70° 

Monday  26'^      Therm^f  50° —  river  water  57° —  clear  above. 
Calm —  river  risen  3  }4  inches  in  the  night.  Con- 
trary 


[67] 

trary  to  expectation  the  morning  proved  not  f  1804 
only  fine  and  serene,  but  of  a  mild,  agreeable  [November 
temperature.  In  general  after  the  winter  season 
sets  in,  the  changes  in  the  weather  are  made  by 
extremes.  A  day  or  two  of  rain  is  commonly  suc- 
ceeded by  a  cold  and  blowing  north  wester,  and 
the  day  following  a  frost  of  some  severity,  which 
has  not  been  the  course  upon  this  last  occasion, 
it  appears  also  that  the  rain  has  raised  the  tem- 
perature of  the  river  3?  The  water  is  now  re- 
markably clear  and  fine,  and  it  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  discoloured  by  the  last  rain.  There  is 
still  a  great  sameness  in  the  appearance  of  the 
river  banks,  the  Islands  are  skirted  with  osier, 
and  immediately  within  on  the  bank  grows  a 
range  of  birch  trees  &  some  willows  ;  the  more 
elevated  banks  of  the  River  are  clothed  by  a  thick 
growth  of  Cane  &  the  timber  which  rises  above 
the  Cane  is  such  as  has  been  already  mentioned 
Viz.  oak,  white,  black,  and  red  ;  many  species  of 
each:  black  Maple,  white  maple, Sycamore, Elm 
several  species.  Ash,  hicory  many  species.  Dog 
wood,  Holly,  Iron  wood  &c  — 

Saw  a  number  of  yellow  butterflies  fluttering 
about  the  banks  of  the  River.  We  continue  to 
encounter  the  same  obstacles  from  the  shoals  & 
rapids  ;  the  valley  of  the  river,  in  its  present  low 
state  is  filled  with  Islands,  which  dividing  the 
current  reduces  the  depth  of  the  Channel ;  We 
find  no  great  difliculty  where  the  water  is  col- 
lected 


[68  ] 

i8o4  1  lected  into  a  single  channel.  Our  Pilot  informs 
November  J  ug  ^]^^^  there  is  a  body  of  excellent  land  upon  the 
little  Missouri  &  more  especially  on  the  Creek 
called  the  *  Bayou  a  terre  noire,'  which  falls  into 
the  little  Missouri ;  this  land  reaches  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  Washita,  and  is  said  to  extend 
to  the  Red  River  being  connected  with  the  great 
prairies  above  the  Cadaux  nation  &  in  the  prox- 
imity of  the  red  River:  this  rich  tract  of  Coun- 
try is  said  to  be  of  very  considerable  extent  per- 
haps a  square  of  30  miles  &  is  connected  with 
the  great  prairies  which  are  the  hunting  grounds 
of  the  Cadaux  Nation,  consisting  of  about  200 
warriors,  they  are  warlike,  but  frequently  unable 
to  defend  themselves  against  the  tribe  of  Osages 
who  are  settled  upon  the  Arcansa  river,  who  pass- 
ing round  the  mountains  which  give  birth  to  the 
Washita,  along  the  prairies  which  enclose  those 
mountains  on  the  West  and  seperate  them  from 
the  main  Chain  of  mountains  which  furnish  the 
waters  of  the  red  &  arcansa  river,  pass  down  in 
the  Cadaux  Country  &  rob  &  plunder  them  of 
their  horses  and  other  effects,  &  not  unfrequently 
take  a  few  scalps;  for  it  seems  that  this  detached 
tribe  of  the  Osages  is  a  lawless  gang  of  robbers, 
making  war  with  the  whole  world. 

Therm^  at  8*^  p.m.  62° — Extremes  5o°-68° 
Made  12  miles  21  Perches. 

Tuesday  27'''      Therm^'  54° — river  water  58° — Cloudy  — 

River 


[  69] 

River  risen  above  the  mark  which  was  1 2  inches  J 1804 
out  of  water:  set  off  at  7^  i'.  and  continued  our  [November 
Voyage  with  the  same  obstacles  from  rapids, 
which  were  very  violent  at  particular  points  from 
the  encreased  body  of  water  descending  from  the 
higher  position ;  but  we  obtained  at  the  same 
time  the  advantage  of  approaching  the  willows 
&  even  passing  thro'  them,  to  avoid  the  most 
difficult  passes.  During  the  hour  of  breakfast  the 
river  rose  i^  inches  perpendicular.  The  gen- 
eral height  of  the  main  banks  is  now  from  6  to 
1 2  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  and  the  land 
is  rather  of  a  better  quality,  the  Canes  &c  shew- 
ing a  more  luxuriant  vegetation:  the  superficial 
soil  subject  to  inundation  is  of  brownish  appear- 
ance greatly  mixed  with  Sand ;  At  noon  arrived 
at  *  cache  a  Ma^on*  (Masons  hiding  place)  on  the 
right,  stopped  here  for  dinner.  Having  been 
informed  of  some  pit  coal  reported  to  be  in  the 
neighbourhood,  we  determined  to  explore  its 
position.  Doctor  Hunter  with  the  Pilot  set  out 
for  this  purpose,  &  at  about  i  ^  mile  N.W.  of 
the  Boat  found  in  the  bed  of  a  Creek  a  substance 
similar  to  what  we  had  formerly  seen  under  the 
name  of  coal;  some  pieces  of  it  were  very  black, 
solid,  &  of  a  homogenous  appearance  greatly 
resembling  pit  Coal,  but  it  was  deficient  in  pon- 
derosity, &  did  not  seem  to  be  penetrated  by 
bituminous  matter  in  a  sufficient  degree  to  con- 
stitute Coal ;  We  may  perhaps  therefore  be  per- 
mitted 


[7°] 

i8o4  1  mitted  to  consider  it  as  vegitable  matter  in  a 
November  J  certain  stage  of  its  progress  of  transmutation  into 
Coal,  we  were  the  more  confirmed  in  this  opinion 
by  discovering  other  fragments,  which  still  re- 
tained very  evidently  the  fibrous  texture  of  wood, 
one  peice  in  particular  seemed  to  have  been  a 
large  chip  taken  out  by  the  felling  ax.  Those 
last  pieces  were  not  so  far  advanced  in  the  trans- 
muting progress  as  the  first  mentioned ;  although 
black  it  was  not  so  perfect,  being  rather  a  very 
dark  brown  black,  retaining  the  exact  form  & 
shape  of  the  wood  as  it  had  been  separated  from 
the  log :  as  this  incipient  or  imperfect  Coal  was 
found  imbedded  among  clay  &  gravel,  which 
appeared  to  have  been  washed  down  by  the  tor- 
rent, no  clue  could  be  found  to  lead  to  a  discov- 
ery of  the  process  by  which  nature  effects  so 
extraordinary  a  change,  an  ingenious  enquirer 
placed  in  favorable  circumstances,  will  probably 
have  the  good  fortune  to  make  this  discovery : 
The  time  may  arrive  when  the  Planter  who 
shall  be  clearing  his  Plantation  or  farm  of  use- 
less timber,  will  be  enabled  from  the  instructions 
of  the  Chemist  to  place  the  whole  in  a  situation 
to  be  transmuted  into  an  usefull  article  capable 
of  long  preservation.  This  is  no  doubt  the  Car- 
bonated wood  described  by  Kirwan  &  other 
Chemists.  We  found  along  the  banks  a  species 
of  the  white  thorn  loaded  with  abundance  of 
ripe  fruit,  being  a  small  oval  berry  of  a  cornelian 

colour 


[71  ] 

colour  &  agreeable  sweetish  taste;  the  whortle  [1804 
berry  was  also  found  in  the  same  situation.  The  l-  °^^^  ^^ 
white  maple  has  now  a  beautiful  appearance, 
its  leaves  before  their  fall  first  assume  a  pale  yel- 
low, but  this  soon  fades,  and  they  change  into  a 
splendid  white  and  present  at  some  distance  the 
appearance  of  clusters  of  elegant  flowers.  Being 
cloudy  at  noon  we  made  no  observation  for  the 
Latitude. 

We  suppose  the  river  to  have  risen  at  least 
30  inches  and  it  now  flows  with  great  rapidity, 
which  obliges  us  to  pass  sometimes  among  the 
willows  to  avoid  its  impetuosity  :  this  afternoon 
we  passed  some  reaches  of  the  river,  which  were 
very  handsome,  being  of  considerable  length, 
and  at  least  150  yards  wide,  and  flowing  with  a 
full  current  from  bank  to  bank.  We  found  a  con- 
siderable number  of  unknown  (to  us)  plants  some 
of  them  very  handsome,  but  our  very  limited 
knowledge  in  practical  botany,  did  not  enable 
us  to  discover  what  they  were,  particularly  as 
they  were  not  in  flower.  Made  this  day  1 3  miles 
39  perches.  Therm!  at  81?  p.m.  66°  Extremes 
54°-7i° 

Therm":  68°  —  river  water  60°  fallen  4  inches  Wednesday  28' 
in  the  night  —  Cloudy  —  calm.  Set  off  at  7^  5' 
and  continued  our  voyage,  meeting  the  same 
species  of  obstacles  as  yesterday — the  river  ap- 
pears to  increase  in  width  being  sometimes  1 70 

yards 


[72] 

i8o4  1  yards  broad,  flowing  at  this  time  with  a  full  tide 
November  J  fj-Qj^  shore  to  shore.  The  Current  is  in  some  places 
extremely  rapid,  that  is  where  the  depth  of  the 
Channel  is  diminished  and  the  bed  contracted, 
in  such  situations  we  are  under  the  necessity  of 
catching  hold  of  the  willows  &c,  &  hauling  up 
along  shore,  oars  and  poles  being  insufficient  to 
stem  the  violence  of  the  torrent ;  in  other  situ- 
ations for  miles  together  the  current  is  incon- 
siderable, in  fact  it  is  nothing  under  the  shelter 
of  the  points,  this  advantage  is  the  result  of  the 
enlargement  and  encreased  depth  of  the  river. 
Being  cloudy  we  had  no  observation  for  the  Lat- 
itude. Some  of  our  people  who  walked  out  with 
their  guns  at  the  hour  of  dinner  discovered  some 
buffalo  tracts  we  are  therfore  in  hopes  soon  of 
getting  some  fresh  beef.  We  past  some  beautifull 
Pine  Forests.  The  Lands  in  many  places  appeared 
of  a  pretty  good  quality  producing  trees  and  a 
variety  of  vegetable  subjects  indicating  a  good 
soil.  Encamped  in  the  evening  after  making  by 
our  reckoning  12  miles  255  perches.  Here  we 
found  an  old  dutch  Hunter  with  his  party  con- 
sisting in  all  of  5  persons.  This  man  has  resided 
40  years  on  the  Washita  and  before  that  period 
has  been  up  the  arcansa  river,  the  white  river  and 
the  river  S'  Francis ;  the  two  last  he  informed 
us  are  small  rivers  of  difficult  navigation  similar 
to  that  we  are  now  upon,  but  the  Arcansa  river 
is  a  river  of  great  magnitude,  a  large  and  broad 

channel. 


[73  ] 

channel,  and  when  the  river  is  low  with  long  / 1804 
and  great  sand  beaches  like  to  the  missisippi.  So  \ November 
far  as  he  has  been  up,  the  navigation  is  safe  and 
commodious,  without  any  impediment  from  rap- 
ids or  shoals,  upon  all  those  rivers,  the  soil  is  of 
the  first  rate  quality,  the  countries  are  of  easy 
access,  being  lofty  open  forests,  unembarrassed 
by  canes  &  other  under  growth :  the  lands  on  the 
Arcansa  are  generally  level  and  not  subject  to  in- 
undation, with  here  and  there  gently  rising  hills. 
The  river  is  not  embarrassed  with  rocks  so  far  as 
this  informant  has  ascended,  but  its  bed  is  com- 
posed of  mud  and  sand :  the  water  of  the  river 
is  extremely  bad  to  drink,  being  of  a  disagreeable 
red  colour  and  very  brackish  when  low,  a  mul- 
titude of  creeks  which  flow  into  the  river  fur- 
nish sweet  water,  which  the  voyager  is  obliged 
to  carry  in  vessels  on  board  to  supply  his  imme- 
diate wants,  hence  this  inconvenience  is  not  of 
much  moment.  This  man  confirms  the  frequent 
reports  given  of  silver  being  abundant  up  this 
river ;  he  has  not  been  so  high  as  to  see  it  him- 
self, but  says  he  has  received  a  silver  pin  from 
a  hunter  who  assured  him  that  he  himself  col- 
lected the  virgin  silver  from  the  rock,  out  of 
which  he  made  the  Epinglete  by  hammering 
it  out ;  The  tribe  of  Ozages  live  higher  up  than 
this  position,  but  the  hunters  rarely  go  so  high, 
being  afFraid  of  those  savages  who  are  at  war 
with  the  world  and  destroy  all  strangers  they  can 

meet 


[74] 

i8o4        1  meet  with.  It  is  reported  that  the  arcansa  nation 
NovernJ)er J  ^j^.j^  ^  ^^^.^  of  ^j^g  Chactaws,  Chicasaws,  Shaw- 

nese  &c.  have  formed  a  league  and  are  actually 
gone  or  going  800  strong  against  those  depre- 
dators, with  a  view  to  destroy  or  drive  them  en- 
tirely off  and  possess  themselves  of  their  fine  prai- 
ries which  are  most  abundant  hunting  grounds, 
being  plentifully  stocked  in  Buffalo,  Elk,  Deer, 
Bear  and  every  other  beast  of  the  chase,  common 
to  those  Latitudes  in  America.  Our  old  Dutch 
Hunter  informs  us  of  a  saline  or  salt  spring  from 
which  he  has  frequently  supplied  himself  with 
salt  by  evaporation,  we  shall  visit  it  in  the  morn- 
ing, being  only  half  a  league  distant.  Made  1 2 
miles  255  perches.  Therm*;  at  8.  p.m.  73°  Ex- 
tremes 68°-78° 

Thursday  29  Therm'  72°  river  water  62° — Cloudy — wind 
South,  blew  strong  all  night  —  This  morning 
Doctor  Hunter  went  with  a  party  and  the  old 
dutch  hunter  to  visit  the  saline,  which  was  found 
in  the  bottom  of  the  bed  of  a  dry  gully  near  a 
Creek  ;  after  digging  a  few  feet  found  the  water 
which  proved  very  brackish  to  the  taste ;  the 
saline  lies  about  i}^  mile  northerly  from  our 
encampment,  a  creek  falls  into  the  river  a  little 
above  our  encampment,  being  the  same  which 
communicates  with  the  saline,  a  quantity  of  the 
water  was  brought  into  camp  whose  specific  grav- 
ity was  carefully  ascertained  by  comparison  with 

the 


[75] 

the  river  water  and  found  to  be  as  i  .02 1 1 6  +  to  i .  f  1804 
Evaporated  10  quarts  of  the  water  which  pro-  [November 
duced  a  saline  mass  weighing  when  dry  8  ounces. 
It  began  to  rain  about  9''  a.m.  which  obHged  us 
to  remain  in  camp  untill  after  dinner,  when  it 
cleared  up,  and  we  set  out  at  i!"  27'  p.m.,  the 
water  of  the  river  has  now  become  whitish  and 
less  transparent  in  consequence  of  the  rain  and 
appears  to  be  rising  again  altho'  it  seemed  to 
have  stopped  since  last  night :  the  water  was  tol- 
lerably  favorable  in  the  afternoon  having  met 
with  only  one  rapid  of  difficulty  and  consid- 
erable length  :  since  we  have  had  so  much  diffi- 
culty to  encounter  from  the  shoals  and  violence 
of  the  current,  the  Soldiers  have  exerted  them- 
selves with  a  considerable  degree  of  vigor  and 
perseverence  and  seem  desireous  that  we  should 
accomplish  the  end  of  our  voyage.  Therms  at 
8!"  p.m.  52°  Extremes  52°-76°  Made  this  day 
8  miles  2  perches.  The  weather  clears  up  and 
begins  to  grow  cold,  we  expect  a  north-wester 
in  the  morning. 

Therm!  in  air  38°  in  river  water  60°  —  river  Friday  30'? 
risen  1 9  inches  —  clear  calm.  Set  off  &  con- 
tinued our  voyage  against  a  strong  current  during 
the  greatest  part  of  the  day,  altho'  frequently  we 
found  favorable  eddies  or  little  or  no  Current 
where  the  bed  of  the  river  became  enlarged, 
which  sometimes  extended  to  1 50  and  even  1 70 

yards 


[76] 

i8o4  1  yards  in  breadth.  Saw  great  flocks  of  Turkeys 
November  j  ^q  ^^y^  ^^^  of  which  were  killed.  At  lo}^  ^  a.m. 
arrived  at  the  large  branch  on  the  left  called 
*  Fourche  des  Cadaux'  (Cadadoquis  fork)  about 
I  GO  yards  wide  at  its  entrance  into  the  Washita ; 
immediately  beyond  which  on  the  same  side  the 
land  is  considerable  elevated  (ab!  300  feet.)  The 
wind  from  North  and  N.W.  opposed  us  most  of 
the  day,  so  that  our  progress  was  not  very  rapid. 
At  noon  landed  &  observed  the  Sun's  altitude 
in  a  difficult  place,  in  some  measure  thro'  the 
branches  of  trees,  the  Latitude  deduced  was  34° 
11'  37".  As  we  advance  to  the  north  we  per- 
ceive more  of  the  effects  of  winter;  the  trees 
are  now  nearly  stripped  of  their  foliage,  which 
a  week  below  seemed  to  be  nearly  entire,  altho' 
changed  in  color:  Being  informed  of  a  saline  or 
salt-lick,  we  landed  before  3^  p.m.  and  the  Doc- 
tor with  a  party  went  to  view  it,  therm'  at  3^  57° 
The  Doctor  returned  in  the  evening  with  a  quan- 
tity of  water  from  the  saline,  which  from  taste 
appeared  to  be  less  impregnated  than  the  former, 
and  on  trial  its  specific  gravity  was  found  to  be 
when  compared  with  the  river  water,  which  at 
that  time  was  principally  rain  water,  i.o  17647. 
This  salt  pit  was  found  in  a  low  flat  place  subject 
to  be  overflowed  from  the  river,  it  was  wet  and 
muddy,  the  earth  on  the  surface  yellowish,  but 
on  digging  into  the  stratum  which  yielded  the 
salt  water,  it  was  found  to  be  a  bluish  clay ;  prob- 
ably 


[77] 

ably  the  water  was  fresher  in  consequence  of  J 1804 
the  rain  of  the  day  before,  which  had  not  fallen  [November 
when  the  first  water  was  collected.  Ten  quarts 
of  this  last  water  produced  by  evaporation  six 
ounces  of  a  saline  mass,  which  from  taste  was 
principally  marine  salt,  it  was  however  evident 
that  it  contained  besides  marine  salt,  some  soda 
and  a  bitter  salt,  which  last  no  doubt  was  muri- 
ated  magnesia,  but  the  marine  salt  greatly  pre- 
dominated.   Made  7  miles  28  perches. 


Therm'  in  air  32?  in  river  water  54°  Clear —  jSaturday 
calm  —  river  fallen  18  inches.  The  morning  was  [December  v} 
cold  &  damp;  we  passed  a  considerable  Island 
on  the  right  about  ^  of  a  mile  in  length,  called 
*  Isle  du  bayou  des  roches '  (rocky  creek  Island) 
—  we  were  greatly  impeded  this  day  by  rapids, 
it  was  with  much  difficulty,  some  hazard,  &  great 
exertion  of  the  men,  that  we  ascended  some  of 
the  rapids :  we  passed  several  points  of  high  land 
full  of  rocks  and  stones,  much  harder  and  more 
solid  than  we  have  yet  seen ;  the  rocks  were  all 
silicious,  and  we  began  to  observe,  that  their  fis- 
sures were  penetrated  by  sparry  matter:  indica- 
tions of  iron  were  frequent,  &  even  fragments 
of  poor  ore,  but  no  rich  ores  of  that  or  any  other 
mettal  have  presented  themselves  to  view.  Some 
of  the  hills  appear  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  vine,  the  soil  being  a  sandy  loam 
with  a  considerable  proportion  of  gravel  &  stone 

and 


[78] 

1 804  1  and  a  superficial  covering  of  good  vegetable  black 
December  J  g^rth:  the  natural  productions  were  sufficiently 
luxuriant,  consisting  of  several  varieties  of  oak, 
Pine,  Dogw^ood,  Holly  &c  with  a  scattering  un- 
derwood of  Whortleberry,  Hawthorn,  China- 
briar  and  a  variety  of  small  vines.  It  is  probable 
that  a  skilful  Vigneron,  who  shall  undertake  the 
establishment  of  a  Vineyard  in  a  well-chosen  po- 
sition in  this  neighbourhood,  will  find  his  labors 
amply  compensated ;  the  market  of  New  Orleans 
is  at  hand,  where  his  wines  (if  good)  may  be 
immediately  sold  and  paid  for  at  a  high  price. 
At  noon  we  were  detained  upon  a  very  bad  rapid 

6  shoal,  by  which  we  lost  the  opportunity  of 
making  a  meridian  observation :  In  the  evening 
also  we  landed  a  little  earlier  than  usual  at  the 
foot  of  a  long  and  difficult  rapid,  which  we  did 
not  think  it  prudent  to  encounter  so  late,  from 
the  danger  of  getting  fast  upon  it  all  night :  we 
are  now  encamped  upon  the  declivity  of  one  of 
those  hills  about  150  feet  high,  commanding  a 
fine  prospect  both  up  and  down  the  river,  &  will 
at  a  future  day  become  a  rich  Vineyard.  Therms 
at  S!'  p.m.  35°  Extremes  3  2°- 58°  Made  this  day 

7  miles  148  perches. 

Sunday  2"?  Therm'  in  air  30°  in  river  water  50°  Clear  — 
calm — river  fallen  4  inches.  Continued  our  voy- 
age and  passed  over  a  series  of  strong  rapids,  which 
opposed  us  untill  the  hour  of  breakfast.    The 

Country 


[79] 

Country  appears  now  to  wear  a  new  aspect ;  high  f  1804 
lands  and  rocks  frequently  approach  the  river;  \ December 
the  rocks  are  extremely  hard,  and  altho'  the 
grain  resembles  that  of  free-stone,  yet  the  stone 
is  hard  enough  to  be  used  for  the  purpose  of 
hand-mill  stones,  to  which  object  it  has  been 
applied;  the  river  beaches  also  exhibit  a  great 
variety  of  fragments  of  flint  and  other  stone  of 
the  most  solid  kinds ;  the  quality  of  the  land 
seems  to  improve,  the  superficial  stratum  of 
Vegetable  earth  being  of  considerable  thickness 
(from  6  to  1 2  inches)  and  of  a  dark  brown  color 
mixed  with  loam  and  some  sand  ;  at  2^  ^  p.m. 
passed  a  rock  on  the  margin  of  the  river  consist- 
ing of  blue  slate,  which  we  shall  probably  find 
time  to  examine  on  our  way  down ;  more  of  the 
same  is  to  be  seen  higher  up.  About  a  league 
from  the  river  a  little  above  the  slate  quarry  is 
a  considerable  plane  called  *  prairie  de  Cham- 
pignole,'  often  frequented  by  Buffalo ;  some  salt 
licks  are  to  be  found  near  it,  and  in  many  situa- 
tions on  both  sides  of  this  river  at  small  distances 
from  it,  we  are  informed  that  Salines  or  salt-licks 
exist  which  may  be  rendered  very  productive; 
when  this  river  comes  to  be  settled,  so  necessary 
an  article  as  marine  salt  will  therefore  be  in  suf- 
ficient abundance  for  the  consumption  of  a  full 
population.  We  are  greatly  impeded  today  by 
rapids  and  were  unable  to  get  ourselves  landed 
in  a  situation  favorable  enough  to  make  an  ob- 
servation 


[  8°] 

1804        I  servation  for  the  Latitude  before  it  was  too  late. 

December  j  ^^  encamped  just  below  some  rapids  which  we 
are  to  encounter  in  the  morning,  upon  excel- 
lent level  and  rich  land,  being  almost  entirely  an 
Oak  forest ;  it  is  not  improbable  that  this  land  is 
sometimes  subject  to  inundation,  having  the  ap- 
pearance of  alluvial  Land  which  has  acquired 
permanency  &  stability,  it  is  now  at  least  20  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river  water.  Thermf  at 
8*"  p.m.  38°    Extremes  30°-59! 

Monday  3^  Therm!  in  air  38° — in  river  water  48° — clear 
—  calm  —  river  fallen  8  inches.  Continued  our 
voyage  with  favorable  water  until  breakfast,  after 
which  we  encountered  a  great  many  very  bad 
rapids  during  the  remainder  of  the  day;  some 
were  so  difficult,  that  it  was  impossible  to  ascend 
without  sending  the  greatest  part  of  our  people 
ashore  with  a  good  rope,  &  sometimes  they  were 
obliged  to  walk  in  the  water;  the  exertions  of 
the  Soldiers  on  some  very  difficult  and  trying 
occasions  were  equal  to  every  thing  which  could 
be  expected,  and  exceeded  greatly  my  expecta- 
tions :  at  noon  we  had  a  good  observation  about 
4  miles  below  the  *  Chutes '  (falls)  Latitude  de- 
duced 34°  21'  2 5". 5  we  were  now  anxious  to  see 
the  famous  Chutes,  which  it  was  supposed  at  the 
Post,  we  should  never  be  able  to  pass  with  so 
large  a  boat.  The  land  on  either  hand  continues 
to  improve  in  quality  ;   there  appears  to  be  in 

general 


[8i  ] 

general  a  superficial  stratum  of  good  earth  of  a  ri8o4 
dark  brown  color,  upon  which  vegetation  is  suf-  I  December 
ficiently  luxuriant ;  hills  frequently  arose  out  of 
the  level  country,  full  of  rocks  &  stones,  gen- 
erally of  an  extremely  hard  flinty  kind,  often 
resembling  the  Turkey  oil  stone,  of  this  kind 
was  a  promontory  which  came  in  from  the  right 
hand,  a  little  before  we  arrived  at  the  Chutes : 
this  promontory  presented  some  appearance  at 
a  distance,  of  the  ancient  ruined  fortifications 
&  Castles  so  frequent  in  Europe,  the  effect  was 
greatly  heightened  by  a  flock  of  swans  which 
had  taken  their  stations  under  the  Walls  which 
rose  out  of  the  Water;  as  we  approached  the 
Birds  floated  about  magestically  upon  the  glassy 
surface,  and  in  tremulous  melancholy  accents 
seemed  to  consult  each  other  upon  measures  of 
safety,  the  ensemble  produced  a  truly  sublime 
picture:  several  masses  of  the  same  hard  rock 
insulated  by  the  river  conveyed  the  idea  of 
redoubts  and  out- works;  we  expect  to  visit  this 
place  in  our  descent.  A  little  after  4''  p.m.  we 
arrived  at  the  Chutes.  We  found  these  falls  to 
be  occasioned  by  a  chain  of  rocks  of  the  same 
hard  nature  with  those  we  had  just  seen  below, 
here  they  extended  quite  across  the  river,  the 
water  making  its  way  over  the  chain  thro'  a 
number  of  breaches,  which  by  the  impetuosity 
of  the  torrent  had  been  worn  out  of  the  rock : 
this  chain  seemed  to  proceed  from  a  lofty  rocky 

hill 


[82] 

i8o4  1  hill  on  the  left  side  the  appearance  of  which  con- 
December  j  yeyed  the  idea,  of  its  having  been  cut  down  by 
the  abrasion  of  the  waters  to  its  present  level :  the 
various  breaches  thro'  which  the  water  poured, 
were  so  many  cascades,  thro'  one  of  which  it 
was  necessary  to  pass  ;  otherwise  the  Barge  must 
remain  below  the  Chutes :  it  was  quite  uncer- 
tain which  of  the  Cataracts  ought  to  be  pre- 
ferred ;  it  was  also  doubtful  whether  our  barge 
(9  feet  wide)  could  find  sufficient  breadth  & 
depth  of  water  clear  of  pointed  rocks  to  pass  over 
the  Chutes.  We  came  up  to  the  rocks  &  stoped 
between  two  of  the  Cascades,  &  sent  a  couple 
of  Men  with  a  small  Canoe,  who  crept  along 
shore  &  got  above  the  Falls,  they  made  fast  a  rope 
to  a  tree,  and  letting  themselves  gradually  down 
by  the  same  rope,  came  on  board  in  great  safety; 
having  now  got  a  number  of  hands  ready  to  haul 
in  upon  the  rope,  we  employed  the  remainder 
with  poles  to  give  a  proper  position  to  the  Barge 
&  to  guide  her  into  the  best  passage ;  we  accord- 
ingly entered  one  of  the  Cascades,  but  after  many 
fruitless  attempts  we  found  there  was  a  deffi- 
ciency  of  water ;  with  some  pointed  rocks  which 
opposed  our  passage  ;  we  therefore  dropped  down 
a  little  way,  and  moved  laterally  by  poling  to  a 
second  Cataract  much  more  considerable  than 
the  one  we  had  just  attempted:  the  rolling  im- 
petuosity of  the  water  is  not  easy  to  describe, 
above  and  below  the  fall  there  was  a  rapid  descent, 

but 


[  83  ] 

but  just  at  the  fall  there  seemed  to  be  a  step  of  ri8o4 
nearly  one  foot  perpendicular;  difficult  &  dan-  [December 
gerous  as  this  place  appeared  for  a  frail  bark  like 
ours,  we  were  determined  to  make  the  attempt 
&  we  lost  no  time  in  entering  the  strait,  in  which 
our  Barge  soon  stuck  fast  at  the  bows,  we  then 
concluded  it  would  be  impossible  to  pass;  it 
seemed  that  an  inch  or  two  were  just  wanting 
to  our  success ;  we  however  continued  our  efforts 
by  moving  from  side  to  side  by  the  stern,  while 
great  effi^rts  were  making  upon  the  rope;  we 
perceived  a  small  advancement  by  every  new 
exertion,  our  hopes  revived,  the  Barge  was  in 
this  manner  forced  half  way  thro'  the  Cascade, 
&  now  she  seemed  so  completely  wedged  into 
the  narrow  passage,  that  every  effort  to  stir  her 
in  any  direction  proved  ineffectual ;  the  water 
tho'  extremely  rapid  was  not  deep  &  we  got  four 
of  our  boldest  men  into  the  water  at  her  bows, 
as  far  as  possible  from  the  suction  of  the  fall,  who 
by  feeling  for  rocks  on  which  she  rested,  &  rais- 
ing her  sides  with  all  their  might,  enabled  us  to 
advance  a  step  or  two  farther,  beyond  which  it 
seemed  impossible  to  move  :  it  was  now  night, 
the  stars  were  visible,  the  water  was  cold,  and 
altho'  the  weather  was  not  freezing,  it  was  far 
from  being  mild,  the  therms  being  at  45°;  we 
now  repented  that  we  had  made  the  attempt  to 
pass  so  late  in  the  evening,  &  wished  we  had 
delayed  until  the  morning;  at  the  same  time  the 

river 


[  84] 

i8o4  1  river  was  falling,  &  it  seemed  not  proper  to  defer 
ecem  erj  ^^^  attempt,  lest  we  should  not  get  above  the 
Chutes  until  another  swell  of  the  river :  in  this 
situation  we  determined  to  lighten  the  Barge,  by 
sending  all  the  men,  except  four,  ashore  to  haul 
upon  the  rope,  while  the  4  who  remained  were 
with  hand  levers  to  endeavour  to  raise  up  & 
lighten  the  bows  of  the  vessel :  the  first  man  who 
went  out  discovered,  that  by  the  violence  of  our 
exertions  the  rope  was  beginning  to  give  way  & 
that  one  of  the  three  strands  of  which  the  rope 
was  composed,  had  actually  parted ;  we  were  now 
in  a  perilous  situation,  for  if  the  rope  had  sep- 
arated, no  force  on  board  could  have  prevented 
our  being  dashed  to  pieces  upon  the  rocks :  we 
immediately  ordered  every  man  on  board  to  his 
pole  to  support  the  boat;  in  the  mean  time  a  man 
was  dispatched  thro'  the  water  with  the  end  of 
a  rope  from  on  board,  which  being  made  fast  to 
the  same  tree,  we  were  again  placed  in  a  state  of 
security;  we  now  sent  the  other  men  on  shore 
as  had  been  intended,  who  gaining  a  firm  footing 
and  exerting  themselves  with  great  vigor  soon 
extricated  us  and  drew  us  safely  ashore,  greatly 
rejoicing  to  find  ourselves  without  accident  above 
the  *  Chutes' :  we  are  encamped  under  the  inces- 
sant roar  of  the  cataracts,  which  resembles  no- 
thing so  much  that  I  have  heretofore  witnessed, 
as  the  horrid  din  of  a  hurricane  at  New  Orleans 
in  the  year  1 779  :   the  course  of  the  chain  of 

rocks 


[85  ] 

rocks  across  the  river  is  nearly  S.W.  and  N.E.  [1804 
— Made  this  day  7  miles  218  perches — Therm'  t^^^^' 
at  8^  p.m.  44°  —  Extremes  3  8 ''-59° 


Thermomi:  in  air  36°  in  river  water  48°  —  Tuesday  4''' 
clear — calm  —  river  fallen  2  inches.  Immedi- 
ately above  the  Chutes,  the  water  possesses  little 
or  no  Current,  owing  no  doubt  to  its  depth  & 
breadth  &  we  went  on  without  opposition  untill 
after  breakfast ;  about  8^  a.m.  passed  a  ledge  of 
very  hard  freestone  rocks  with  moderate  cur- 
rent :  this  reach  is  spacious  being  not  less  than 
200  yards  wide  &  is  terminated  by  a  high  rocky 
hill  (about  350  feet  perpendicular)  crowned  with 
beautiful  pine  woods,  a  fine  situation  for  build- 
ing :  at  10^  ^  passed  a  bald  hill  on  the  left  being 
chiefly  uncovered  rock,  and  arrived  at  the  foot 
of  a  most  tremenduous  rapid  full  of  breakers, 
the  passage  being  studded  with  pointed  rocks  of 
all  magnitudes,  which  raising  their  rough  heads 
above  water,  seemed  to  threaten  with  destruc- 
tion the  unwary  voyager  who  should  presume 
to  attempt  their  passage  ;  this  place  appeared  to 
me  much  more  difficult  and  dangerous  than  the 
Chutes,  the  water  descended  along  a  plane  of 
considerable  inclination  with  a  most  impetuous 
velocity,  the  spray  &  white  foam  dashing  over 
the  rocks,  occasioned  a  very  perceptible  mist  or 
vapor  which  spread  about  at  a  small  elevation, 
it  is  probable  it  might  ascend  into  the  atmos- 
phere 


[  86] 

i8o4  \  phere  at  a  higher  temperature.  We  stopped  to 
December  J  contemplate  this  embarrasment  &  ordered  out 
a  rope,  which  was  carried  along  shore  by  a  cer- 
tain part  of  the  people,  the  rest  using  their  poles 
on  board ;  we  made  many  fruitless  essays  to  pass 
upwards  by  several  openings  near  the  shore  ;  at 
length  we  attempted  the  center  of  the  Cataract 
where  the  current  was  the  most  violent,  but  the 
water  deeper,  &  by  very  great  exertions  we  got 
over  into  moderate  water,  having  consumed  i  j^ 
hour  in  making  about  }4  mile;  300  yards  of 
this  distance  is  difficult  &  perilous,  the  greatest 
prudence  with  unceasing  exertion  being  indis- 
pensibly  necessary  to  the  safety  of  such  a  barge 
as  ours.  We  landed  above  this  rapid  &  by  a 
good  observation  found  the  latitude  to  be  34° 
25'  48";  on  our  right  stood  a  high  rocky  hill 
crowned  with  very  handsome  Pine- woods;  the 
strata  of  this  rock  were  inclined  30°  to  the  Ho- 
rizon in  the  direction  of  the  river  descending; 
this  hill  may  be  from  300  to  350  feet  high:  we 
have  now  frequently  the  hills  touching  the  river 
on  both  sides ;  a  border  or  list  of  green  Cane 
skirts  the  margin  of  the  river,  growing  out  of 
the  alluvial  soil,  beyond  is  generally  a  high  & 
sometimes  barren  hill.  At  2^  p.m.  we  passed  a 
hill  on  the  left  containing  a  great  body  of  blue 
slate,  in  some  places  hanging  over  the  river  ;  a 
little  farther  came  to  another  rapid  or  cataract, 
which  appeared  if  possible  more  terrible  than 

the 


[87] 

the  last,  the  descent  of  the  water  was  extremely  [1804 
precipitate;  from  the  very  irregularly  undulat-  [December 
ing  surface,  it  was  evident  that  the  bottom  was 
composed  of  innumerable  fragments  of  rock, 
many  of  which  just  shewed  their  heads  out  of 
water ;  we  halted  on  the  right  shore  &  sent 
up  our  rope,  but  after  many  fruitless  &  some 
dangerous  attempts,  in  which  we  were  always 
repelled  by  the  rocks,  we  were  obliged  to  give 
up  the  expectation  of  passing  up  on  that  shore  ; 
we  therefore  had  recourse  to  the  expedient  of 
swinging  the  barge  into  the  middle  of  the  river 
&  by  the  aid  of  the  rudder  and  the  exertions  of 
poling,  we  with  some  difficulty  got  hold  on  the 
opposite  shore,  notwithstanding  that  the  rope 
was  caught  under  a  rock  in  the  middle  of  the 
river.  We  hauled  the  rope  on  board  and  sent 
it  up  the  shore,  and  passed  up  the  most  violent 
part  of  the  rapid :  we  ascended  a  second  rapid 
of  less  importance  and  encamped,  our  people  be- 
ing almost  exhausted  with  fatigue ;  on  the  right 
is  a  creek  called  *  bayou  de  la  saline';  about  a 
league  up  the  Creek  is  a  salt-lick,  which  by  dig- 
ging yields  salt  water  resembling  what  we  have 
already  seen ;  there  is  also  blue  slate  near  the 
same  situation.  This  afternoon  our  hunters  shot 
twice  at  a  Buffalo  &  wounded  him  severely,  the 
blood  flowing  as  he  run,  but  he  escaped.  Our 
tents  were  pitched  on  a  stony  and  gravelly  beach, 
they  were  completely  paved  with  stones  of  a 

great 


[88  ] 

i8o4        1  great  variety  in  kind,  color  and  size.  Therm'  at 
December/  gh  ^  j^    ^^o — Extremes  36°-5o°   Made  only  4 

miles  164  perches. 

Wednesday  5'.''  Therm^  in  air  23°  in  water  of  the  river  47° 
—  very  serene  —  calm  —  river  fallen  2  inches. 
The  morning  tho'  cold  was  agreeable,  the  air 
being  very  dry  :  all  night  we  hear'd  the  roaring 
of  a  Cataract,  which  we  were  to  encounter  this 
morning ;  we  were  presently  at  the  foot  of  it ; 
the  violence  of  the  rapid  was  about  100  yards 
in  length,  &  as  I  sat  in  the  cabin  of  the  barge 
with  my  eye  lowered  to  the  level  of  the  still 
water  of  the  reach  above  the  rapid,  I  found 
there  was  a  fall  of  4^^  feet ;  we  sent  our  rope  a 
head  as  usual ;  but  made  very  little  progress  for 
some  time,  the  rope  being  entangled  among 
sharp  rocks  which  endangered  its  cutting,  the 
consequence  of  which  might  have  been  fatal  to 
all  on  board  the  barge,  with  the  entire  destruc- 
tion of  the  boat  and  every  thing  contained  in 
it ;  the  passage  was  full  of  breakers  and  studded 
all  over  with  pointed  rocks,  so  that  it  was  neces- 
sary to  guide  with  the  utmost  care,  to  be  able 
to  pass  clear  of  those  unfriendly  obstacles :  the 
men  on  shore  exerted  themselves  greatly,  but 
were  frequently  obliged  to  rest,  &  the  boat  was 
often  at  an  entire  stand,  at  length  the  rope 
escaped  from  the  rock  which  bent  it  out  of  its 
course,  and  we  began  to  move  up  very  slowly, 

frequent 


[  89] 

frequent  rests  were  necessary  &  in  about  an  hour  ri8o4 
and  a  half  we  ascended  above  the  rapid  which  l  December 
was  only  about  150  yards  in  length;  a  small  is- 
land here  divided  the  river  into  two  channels, 
we  took  the  shortest  tho'  the  most  rapid,  because 
it  was  most  favorable  for  the  use  of  the  rope : 
The  french  hunters  have  denominated  this  place 
*  La  Cascade '  on  account  of  the  rapidity  &  great 
fall  of  the  water  within  so  small  a  space  :  below 
the  Cascade,  we  had  rocky  hills  on  both  sides, 
the  quality  very  hard  freestone,  but  that  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  river  which  was  rolled  down 
by  the  floods  from  the  upper  countries,  was  very 
frequently  of  the  hardest  flint,  sometimes  resem- 
bling the  Turkey  stone.  Being  embarrassed  upon 
the  rapids  we  could  not  land  to  observe  at  noon. 
We  were  obliged  to  use  the  rope  a  second  time 
to  ascend  a  very  impetuous  rapid,  altho'  much 
inferior  to  that  of  the  morning:  at  i^  45'  p.m. 
passed  a  creek  on  the  right  called  *  fourche  au 
Tigre'  (Tiger  creek)  4  computed  leagues  from 
the  Chutes ;  it  would  seem  that  the  Early  Hunt- 
ers have  calculated  their  leagues  by  the  time  re- 
quired to  ascend  the  stream,  &  not  by  distance, 
as  it  appears  from  our  calculation,  that  the 
distances  passed  over  are  frequently  not  above 
half  those  by  computation :  we  now  carry  the 
rocky  hills  with  us  very  often  on  both  sides ; 
rich  bottoms  nevertheless  are  not  infrequent, 
&  the  upland  is  sometimes  of  moderate  eleva- 
tion 


[90] 

i8o4  1  tion  &  toUerably  level :  we  are  informed  that  up 
Decemberj  ^j^g  fourche  au  Tigre,  &  other  Creeks  there  are 
many  extensive  tracts  of  rich  level  land.  The 
stones  and  rocks  we  now  meet  with  are  chiefly 
penetrated  along  their  fissures  by  sparry  and 
chrystaline  matter.  Last  night  a  band  of  Wolves 
howled  in  our  neighbourhood  a  great  part  of 
the  night.  Turkeys  become  now  much  more 
abundant  &  less  difficult  of  approach  than  be- 
low, our  hunters  generally  kill  some  every  day. 
The  opposition  on  the  river  was  to  day  so  great, 
that  we  made  only  3  miles  128  perches,  altho' 
by  the  old  computation  our  days  voyage  was 
little  short  of  3  leagues.  Therm'  at  8^  p.m.  38° 
Extremes  23°— 56° 

Thursday  6*>  Therm'  in  air  45°  in  river  water  48° — cloudy 
— light  wind  at  S.W.  river  fallen  2  inches.  We 
were  encamped  last  night  upon  excellent  land, 
tollerably  level,  and  of  a  good  dark  brown  or 
blackish  soil  at  the  surface,  about  1 2  inches 
deep,  lying  upon  a  yellowish  loam  ;  the  growth 
of  timber  is  large  and  handsome,  chiefly  a  forest 
of  Oak  with  an  admixture  of  ash,  hickory,  elm 
&c,  a  field  of  corn  has  been  formerly  cultivated 
here  by  one  of  the  hunters  during  the  summer 
recess  from  hunting.  This  morning  the  Weather 
being  cloudy  we  apprehended  rain,  but  hoped  to 
reach  the  *  fourche  of  Calfat'  (Caulker's  creek) 
the  point  which  is  to  terminate  our  navigation, 

& 


[91  ] 

&  encamp  before  bad  weather;  we  according-  ri8o4 
ly  proceeded  on  without  material  interruption  [December 
until  the  hour  of  breakfast,  carrying  with  us 
high  hills  on  the  left  and  good  level  lands  on 
the  right,  subject  perhaps  to  be  inundated :  at 
9^  a.m.  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a  very  long  preci- 
pitous rapid,  it  seemed  to  be  divided  into  four 
steps,  one  of  which  was  at  least  1 5  inches  per- 
pendicular exclusive  of  the  inclined  plane  above 
and  below,  the  whole  could  not  be  less  than 
5^  feet  perpendicular  from  the  beginning  to 
the  end,  which  was  about  400  yards,  altho'  the 
swift  water  continued  half  a  mile :  the  rope 
was  carried  along  the  bank  as  usual,  and  many 
stops  were  made  upon  the  rocks  before  coming  ' 
to  the  great  fall ;  at  last  the  barge  entered  be- 
tween two  high  rocks,  the  men  exerted  them- 
selves vigorously  both  on  shore  and  aboard  ;  the 
barge  appeared  to  be  ascending  an  inclined  plane 
of  1 2  or  15  degrees  ;  great  exertions  were  neces- 
sary, she  however  passed  without  touching  any 
other  obstacle  but  the  impetuous  torrent  and  in 
a  few  seconds  was  drawn  into  moderate  water 
to  the  infinite  joy  of  the  whole  party ;  upon 
another  part  of  the  rapid  higher  up,  we  got 
upon  a  rock,  which  seemed  to  serve  as  a  pivot, 
upon  which  the  boat  turned  as  a  Center ;  after 
reiterated  exertions,  we  could  neither  advance 
nor  retreat,  we  therefore  unloaded  about  one 
quarter  of  the  cargo  which  enabled  her  to  pass 

up 


[92] 

i8o4  I  up  without  difficulty :  we  immediately  re-loaded 
Decembcrj  having  spent  three  hours  in  getting  over  this 
rapid,  and  proceeded  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther 
to  Ellis'  Camp  a  little  below  the  *  fourche  au 
Calfat'  (Caulker's  creek) :  Here  terminates  our 
voyage  upon  the  river  upwards,  for  the  pre- 
sent. Our  pilot  considers  this  the  most  conven- 
ient landing,  from  whence  to  transport  by  land 
our  necessary  baggage  to  the  hot-springs,  the 
distance  being  about  three  leagues.  There  is  a 
creek  about  2  leagues  higher  up,  called  *  bayou 
des  sources  chaudes '  (hot-spring  Creek)  upon 
the  banks  of  which  the  hot  springs  are  situated, 
about  2  leagues  only  from  its  mouth,  but  the 
road  is  very  hilly  and  therefore  less  eligible  than 
the  path  from  this  camp  or  landing,  which  is 
almost  a  level  road.  Upon  ascending  the  hill  to 
encamp  we  found  the  land  extremely  level  and 
very  good,  with  some  plants  in  flower  &  a  great 
many  evergreen  vines ;  the  forest  is  chiefly  oak 
with  an  admixture  of  other  timber  as  before 
mentioned :  soon  after  we  arrived  it  began  to 
rain,  we  were  however  tented  before  it  com- 
menced. Therm'  at  8^"  p.m.  56?  Extremes  54°- 
67?  Our  short  voyage  this  day  was  only  2  miles 
32  perches. 

Friday  f^  Thcrmf  before  san-rise  38°  in  river  water  47° 
Cloudy  —  Wind  N.W.  river  risen  4  inches.  In 
the  morning  Doctor  Hunter  with  the  Pilot  &c 

went 


[93  J 

went  to  view  a  salt-lick  about  a  mile  to  the  [1804 
West  of  our  camp  but  found  no  salt  water  ;  the  1  December 
clay  was  extremely  stiff  and  difficult  to  dig : 
after  breakfast  dispatched  the  Pilot  with  the 
greatest  part  of  our  people  with  their  own  bag- 
gage &  some  provisions  to  encamp  at  the  hot- 
springs,  hoping  to  find  Cabins  there  sufficient 
to  hut  our  party  with  orders  to  return  early  next 
morning  so  as  to  take  out  a  load  of  more  bag- 
gage and  instruments.  Took  the  sun's  meridian 
altitude;  Latitude  deduced  34°  27'  31 '.5  — 
Therm!  at  3^  p.m.  50°  —  the  weather  cleared 
up  about  g^  p.m.  and  became  very  serene  and 
cool  with  wind  at  N.W.  some  venison  and  tur- 
key were  procured  by  the  hunters :  altho'  we 
have  frequently  seen  the  tracks  and  other  marks 
of  buffalo,  we  are  hitherto  disappointed  in  kill- 
ing any  of  them. 

Therm!  in  air  10°  in  river  water  43°  — very  Saturday  8!ll 
serene — light  wind  at  N.W.  river  risen  4  inches. 
We  found  the  weather  this  morning  extremely 
cold,  the  therm'  having  fallen  lower,  than  we 
expected  in  this  latitude,  particularly  at  the  pre- 
sent early  period  of  the  winter  season ;  it  is 
perhaps  to  be  ascribed  to  the  elevation  of  the 
country  and  neighbourhood  of  mountains :  as 
we  have  no  barometer  with  us  to  indicate  the 
pressure  of  the  atmosphere,  we  shall  when  we 
get  to  the  hot  springs,  ascertain  the  degree  of 

the 


[94] 

i8o4        ]  the  thermometer  at  which  water  boils,  from 
Dccemberj  ^hjch  scientific  men  may  draw  their  own  con- 
clusions respecting  the  elevation  of  the  land. 

At  lo^  a.m.  our  people  returned  from  the 
hot-springs,  each  giving  his  own  account  of  the 
wonderfril  things  he  had  seen :  they  were  unable 
to  keep  the  finger  a  moment  in  the  Water  as  it 
issued  from  the  rock,  they  drank  of  it  after  cool- 
ing a  little  and  found  it  very  agreeable ;  some 
of  them  thinking  that  it  tasted  like  Spice-wood 
tea.  The  people  after  refreshment  were  dis- 
patched with  another  load  of  necessary  bag- 
gage. 

Took  the  Sun's  meridian  altitude  again  to  day 
&  found  the  latitude  to  be  34°  27'  27"  being  4" 
less  than  yesterday;  should  no  more  observa- 
tions for  the  Latitude  be  made  here,  we  may 
consider  it  as  fixed  at  34*^  27'  29".  The  Thermf 
at  3^  p.m.  47°  We  may  prepare  for  another  cold 
night :  a  flock  of  swans  passed  us  to  day :  we 
have  had  an  abundance  of  venison  &  turkey 
since  we  landed  here,  sufficient  to  supply  the 
whole  party  with  fresh  provisions.  The  bank  or 
hill  upon  which  we  are  encamped  is  at  least  50 
feet  perpendicular  above  the  present  level  of  the 
river,  and  therefore  I  presume  30  feet  clear  of 
inundation.  Some  hills  of  considerable  height 
are  in  view,  clothed  with  pine  trees,  but  the 
lands  around  us  extending  far  beyond  our  view, 
lie  very  handsomely  for  cultivation  ;  the  super- 
stratum 


[95] 

Stratum  is  of  blackish  brown  color  from  8  to  1 2  [1804 
inches  deep,  lying  upon  a  yellowish  basis,  the  \  December 
whole  intermixed  more  or  less  with  stone  & 
gravel  &  fragments  of  blue  schistus,  which  is 
frequently  found  so  far  decomposed  as  to  have 
a  strong  aluminous  taste.  The  therm!;  at  8^  p.m. 
26°;  very  serene  and  calm,  the  stars  shone  with 
uncommon  lustre :  in  an  hour  more  the  face  of 
the  heavens  was  changed,  a  general  cloud  pro- 
duced an  intense  darkness ;  the  therm!  rose  to 
36?  and  we  expected  snow  or  rain;  after  mid- 
night notwithstanding,  the  clouds  were  dissi- 
pated, the  face  of  heaven  recovered  its  brightness 
&  the  Stars  shone  with  undiminished  splendor. 
Extremes  of  the  therm!  i  o°—^y° 

Therm!  in  air  1 9°  in  river  water  41°  very  Sunday  9*.'' 
serene  —  Wind  moderate  at  N.W.  river  risen  2 
inches.  The  people  returned  from  the  springs 
between  9*^  &  10^  a.m.  and  after  some  time 
given  for  repose  and  refreshment,  the  party  set 
out  again  with  such  baggage  as  was  immediately 
wanted,  and  Doctor  Hunter  and  myself  accom- 
panied them ;  the  people  complained  of  the 
length  of  the  road  and  weight  of  the  loads,  we 
therefore  diminished  the  latter ;  The  Sergeant 
and  one  private  remained  in  care  of  the  Barge 
and  her  stores.  We  left  the  river  camp  about 
noon  and  with  many  delays  and  haults  for  rest- 
ing we  arrived  at  the  hot  springs  at  4^  ^  p.m. — 

the 


[96] 

i8o4  1  the  distance  is  computed  to  be  9  miles,  which 
Decemberj  ^^  shall  verify  by  actual  measurement,  probably 
on  our  return  :  the  first  six  miles  were  in  a  gen- 
eral westerly  direction  with  many  sinuosities  and 
the  last  three  northerly,  which  courses  were  ne- 
cessary to  avoid  crossing  some  very  steep  hills. 
We  found  on  the  way  three  principal  salt-licks 
&  some  inferior,  which  are  all  frequented  by 
buffalo,  deer  &c  the  soil  around  consisted  of  a 
white  tenacious  clay,  probably  fit  for  Potter's 
ware;  hence  the  name  *  Glaise'  which  the  french 
hunters  have  bestowed  upon  most  of  the  licks 
which  are  frequented  by  the  beasts  of  the  forest, 
altho'  salt  is  not  always  to  be  found  in  such  places 
so  as  to  merit  attention :  we  saw  on  the  way  recent 
tracts  of  the  Buffalo  and  several  Deer  skipped 
along  before  us;  we  did  not  follow  the  game, 
being  desireous  of  arriving  at  our  destination  be- 
fore evening.  The  people  were  much  fatigued 
with  this  days  labor,  altho'  the  road  is  by  no 
means  bad  or  hilly,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that 
a  heavy  load  constantly  bearing  a  man  down 
must  be  very  fatiguing  upon  the  best  of  roads : 
the  time  and  difficulties  of  moving  our  small 
baggage  and  provisions,  altho'  nothing  but  what 
is  essentially  necessary,  to  so  small  a  distance, 
naturally  sugests  the  inconveniencies  which  must 
arise  in  transporting  over  unknown  mountains 
between  the  sources  of  the  red  and  Arcansa 
rivers,  baggage  &  provisions  indispensibly  ne- 
cessary, 


[97] 

cessary,  with  tools  and  implements  for  the  con-  ri8o4 
struction  of  a  boat  or  boats  to  descend  the  2*^  [December 
river.  Soldiers  accustomed  to  carry  moderate 
loads  only,  would  find  it  intoUerable  to  trans- 
port burthens  which  would  be  thought  light  by 
a  Canadian  or  other  woodsman  enured  to  such 
hardships :  a  little  calculation  will  shew  what 
ideas  we  ought  to  form  upon  this  subject.  The 
provisions,  instruments,  arms  &  other  baggage 
which  may  be  deemed  indispensible  for  1 5  per- 
sons engaged  on  such  an  expedition,  i.  e.  what 
must  be  transported  from  the  head  of  one  river 
to  the  commencement  of  navigation  on  the 
other,  are  certainly  not  over-rated  at  3000  lib; 
of  the  whole  party  10  carriers  are  the  highest 
number  we  can  calculate  upon,  some  being  ne- 
cessary to  guard  the  two  camps  while  the  scien- 
tific persons  unattended  would  explore  the  envi- 
rons :  those  i  o  carriers  from  what  we  have  seen 
could  not  be  expected  to  carry  for  a  number  of 
days  successively  more  than  50  pounds  each 
(several  of  our  people  were  incapable  of  doing 
so  much)  and  ten  miles  to  go  loaded  &  return 
empty  day  after  day  even  on  a  tollerably  level 
road,  is  perhaps  beyond  what  we  can  flatter  our- 
selves with  accomplishing  ;  thus  it  would  require 
at  least  six  days  to  transport  the  baggage  10 
miles,  and  the  seventh  would  be  demanded  as  a 
day  of  repose  :  now  if  the  heads  of  navigation 
should  be  only  50  miles  apart,  &  the  passage  not 

rugged 


.  [  98  ] 

i8o4        \  rugged  or  mountainous,  it  would  require  at  the 
December  J  j^^g^  ^^  ^j^yg  ^.q  p^gg  along  the  unknown  region  ; 

and  if  allowance  be  made  for  such  difficulties  as 
ought  to  be  expected  including  bad  weather,  we 
shall  perhaps  still  flatter  ourselves,  if  we  expect 
to  complete  this  portage  in  50  days :  on  due  con- 
sideration therefore  it  may  be  more  advantageous 
(if  the  expedition  is  to  be  carried  on  by  soldiers 
who  cannot  travel  without  their  rations,  tents, 
baggage  &  above  all  their  execrable  whisky)  to 
explore  one  river  only  at  a  time.  When  arrived 
at  the  head  of  Navigation  which  will  constitute 
a  kind  of  head  quarters  and  point  of  departure, 
the  scientific  men  with  a  sufficient  party  may 
make  with  tollerable  convenience  excursions  of 
30,  40  or  50  miles  in  all  directions,  prolonging 
the  time  according  to  the  fortune  of  procuring 
game,  which  will  enable  the  party  to  reserve  the 
provisions  taken  from  Camp  for  their  return :  an 
advantage  resulting  from  this  plan  would  be  the 
facility  of  transporting  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory meriting  attention ;  it  is  evident  that  this 
benefit  must,  upon  the  other  plan,  be  nearly  given 
up  excepting  on  the  descent  of  the  second  river. 
I  am  not  ignorant  that  the  plan  originally  pro- 
posed may  be  carried  into  efl^ect,  but  this  must 
be  done  by  persons  chosen  for  the  object,  in  order 
that  it  may  be  done  with  economy  &  in  a  rea- 
sonable time:  Two  young  men  of  science  of 
robust  constitutions  attended  by  four  Canadian 

or 


[99] 

or  other  woodsmen  inured  to  fatigue  and  who  ri8o4 
can  depend  altogether  on  their  guns  for  subsist-  I  December 
ence  may  accomplish  this  object;  they  will  be 
able  to  transport  at  once,  their  blankets,  their 
arms  and  amunition,  a  little  parched  meal,  very 
light  instruments,  such  as  a  3  inch  sextant  which 
may  be  graduated  to  20"  of  a  degree,  a  pocket 
case  with  a  few  re-agents  for  mineralogical  as- 
says, and  3  or  4  days  provisions  in  case  of  disap- 
pointment in  finding  game;  (spirituous  liquors 
must  be  out  of  the  question  :)  Such  a  party,  each 
carrying  a  light  ax  for  the  purpose  of  building 
Canoes  &c  may  accomplish  the  object  proposed, 
upon  supposition  that  no  hostility  is  to  be  ap- 
prehended from  the  natives. 

From  the  river  camp  for  about  two  miles, 
the  lands  are  level  and  of  second  rate  quality, 
the  timber  chiefly  oak  intermixed  with  others 
common  to  the  climate  and  a  few  scattering 
pine-trees  ;  further  on,  the  lands  on  either  hand 
arose  into  gently  swelling  hills,  clothed  chiefly 
with  handsome  pine-woods :  the  road  passed 
along  a  valley  frequently  wet,  by  numerous  rills 
and  springs  of  excellent  water  which  broke  from 
the  foot  of  the  hills  :  as  we  approached  the  hot- 
springs  the  hills  became  more  elevated  and  of 
steep  ascent  &  generally  rocky ;  those  hills  are 
here  dignified  by  the  name  of  mountains,  altho' 
none  of  those  yet  in  view  exceed  4  or  500  feet ; 
it  is  said  that  mountains  of  more  than  five  times 

the 


1804  1  the  elevation  of  these  hills  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
December  j  North-west  towards  the  sources  of  the  Washita 
river ;  one  of  those  has  been  called  the  glass, 
Chrystal  or  Shining  mountain,  on  its  surface  is 
to  be  found  vast  numbers  of  large  hexagonal 
prisms  of  very  transparent  colorless  chrystal,  gen- 
erally surmounted  by  pyramids  at  one  end,  rarely 
at  both ;  they  do  not  produce  a  double  refrac- 
tion :  many  searches  have  been  made  over  those 
mountains  for  the  precious  mettals,  but  hitherto 
without  success,  so  far  as  I  can  learn. 

We  found  at  the  Hot-springs  an  Open  Log- 
Cabin  and  a  few  huts  of  split  boards,  all  calcu- 
lated for  summer  encampment,  &  which  have 
been  erected  by  persons  resorting  to  the  Springs 
for  the  recovery  of  their  health ;  we  shall  en- 
deavour to  render  our  temporary  lodging  com- 
fortable for  the  people  and  ourselves  during  the 
short  time  we  expect  to  stay  here :  we  are  a 
little  discouraged  by  the  dilatory  ways  of  the 
Soldiers ;  it  is  evident  that  to  promote  the  ad- 
vancement of  an  object  similar  to  ours,  they 
ought  to  be  commanded  by  a  commissioned 
officer,  whose  manners  and  disposition  would 
render  him  an  agreeable  companion  to  his  fel- 
low laborers  :  it  cannot  be  said  that  the  Soldiers 
are  disobedient,  on  the  contrary  they  are  to  me 
uniformly  respectful,  but  it  sometimes  appears 
that  a  spur  is  wanting,  &  there  is  no  person  here 
who  treats  them  otherwise  than  with  civility  ; 

there 


[   'o>   J 

there  is  also  some  appearance  of  design  to  pro-  J 1804 
long  their  return  to  new-orleans,  the  present  1  December 
service  being  much   more  agreeable  to  them 
than  the  duty  of  a  garrison  under  the  eye  of 
their  officer. 

On  our  arrival  w^e  immediately  tasted  of  the 
hot-spring  water,  that  is,  after  a  few  minutes 
cooling,  for  it  was  impossible  to  approach  it 
with  the  lips  when  first  taken  up,  without  scald- 
ing :  having  arrived  here  without  prejudice  for 
or  against  the  springs  I  did  not  discover  any 
other  taste  except  that  of  very  good  water  ren- 
dered hot  by  culinary  fire ;  some  of  our  people 
pretended  to  have  discovered  cathartic  proper- 
ties, which  must  be  feeble,  as  I  have  been  unable 
to  detect  the  existence  of  such  a  quality  in  the 
waters.  Therm' at  8^  p.m.  28°  Extremes  19^-42? 

Therm'  26° — very  serene.  Wind  moderate  at  Monday  io'> 
N.W.  —  We  spent  a  cold  night  in  our  new 
lodgings,  not  being  able  to  keep  up  a  large  fire 
in  the  Cabin,  which  is  only  1 2  feet  square  with- 
out a  chimney.  From  the  complaints  of  great 
fatigue  by  the  people,  we  found  it  necessary  to 
allow  some  repose,  and  ordered  the  people  to 
go  into  the  river  camp,  there  to  remain  during 
the  night  and  return  the  day  following  with 
more  of  our  baggage,  directing  the  loads  to  be 
made  still  lighter :  the  day  proved  serene  and 
fine,  but  as  we  had  been  obliged  to  leave  our  in- 
struments 


[    I02    ] 

i8o4  1  struments  yesterday  at  the  river-camp,  no  astro- 
Decemberj  nomical  observations  could  be  made  this  day. 
We  visited  all  the  hot  springs  ;  they  issue  from 
the  sides  and  foot  of  a  hill  placed  on  the  east 
side  of  the  narrov^  valley  where  we  are  hutted, 
one  small  spring  only  rises  out  of  the  face  of 
the  west  bank  of  the  creek ;  from  the  quantity 
of  calcareous  matter  deposited  by  it  it  does  not 
appear  to  be  of  long  standing ;  a  natural  con- 
duit probably  passes  under  the  bed  of  the  creek 
to  supply  it.  There  are  four  principal  springs 
arising  immediately  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Creek,  one  of  which  may  rather  be  said  to  spring 
out  of  the  gravel  bed  of  run  ;  a  fifth  smaller  one 
is  that  just  mentioned  rising  on  the  west  side  of 
the  creek ;  a  sixth  of  the  same  magnitude  is  the 
highest  or  most  northerly  one  rising  near  the 
bank  of  the  Creek ;  those  are  all  the  sources 
which  merit  the  name  of  springs  near  to  our 
huts ;  but  there  is  a  considerable  one  some  dis- 
tance below,  &  all  along  the  creek  at  intervals 
the  water  oozes  out  or  drips  from  under  the 
bank  into  the  creek,  which  during  the  present 
cool  season  is  very  evident  from  the  condensed 
vapor  which  floats  along  the  margin  of  the 
Creek,  where  those  drippings  are  visible  &  even 
where  none  is  to  be  seen  ;  a  statement  will  here- 
after be  given  of  the  temperatures  of  the  respec- 
tive springs  with  the  quantity  of  water  delivered 
and   references    to   their    respective   positions ; 

from 


[  1^3  ] 

from  some  slight  trials,  it  appears  that  the  high-  [1804 
est  temperature  is  about  148°  to  150?  of  Farhe-  1  December 
neit's  thermometer. 

In  the  afternoon  we  ascended  the  hill  of  the 
hot  springs,  it  is  of  a  conical  form  terminating 
at  top  with  a  few  loose  fragments  of  rocks  cov- 
ering a  flat  space  of  twenty  five  feet  diameter : 
altho'  we  have  said  the  hill  is  conical,  yet  it  is 
not  entirely  insulated,  for  it  is  connected  by  a 
very  narrow  ridge  with  the  neighbouring  hills. 

The  primitive  rock  of  this  hill  above  the  base 
is  chiefly  Silicious,  some  part  of  it  being  of  the 
hardest  flint,  others  of  the  nature  of  freestone 
extremely  compact  &  solid,  and  of  a  great  va- 
riety of  colors ;  the  base  of  the  hill,  &  indeed 
for  a  considerable  extent,  is  composed  of  blackish 
blue  schistus,  which  divides  into  perpendicular 
laminag  like  blue  slate;  The  water  of  the  hot 
springs  is  therfore  delivered  from  the  siliceous 
rock,  but  this  is  generally  invisible  at  the  surface, 
being  encrusted  by  or  rather  buried  in  the  mass 
of  calcareous  matter,  perpetually  precipitated 
from  the  water;  iron  in  small  proportion  was 
also  deposited  in  form  of  a  red  calx,  the  colour 
of  which  was  frequently  distinguishable  in  the 
lime. 

Under  the  hotest  water  we  observed  a  lively 
green  appearance,  which  at  first  induced  us  to 
suppose  that  copper  might  be  present,  but  on 
closer  inspection,  we  found  it  to  be  a  soft  tender 

matter, 


[  104  ] 

1 8o4       1  matter,  perhaps  a  feculum  deposited  by  the  water ; 

December  J  j^  jj^^y.  possibly  be  of  the  same  nature  with  the 
green  matter  found  in  conduits  or  even  in  well 
buckets  under  pure  water  at  common  tempera- 
ture, respecting  which  a  dispute  arose  (I  think) 
between  Doctor  Priestly  and  other  Philosophers, 
whether  this  green  mater  is  a  perfect  vegetable 
or  only  a  feculum ;  the  question  is  perhaps  now 
decided  (if  we  suppose  the  green  matter  of  the 
hot  springs  to  be  of  the  same  kind)  for  by  rea- 
soning from  analogy,  no  vegetable  can  be  sup- 
posed to  exist  in  the  temperature  of  150°;  but 
we  must  beware  of  presuming  to  set  bounds  to 
the  powers  of  Nature :  we  shall  hereafter  ex- 
amine this  matter  with  due  attention ;  we  shall 
only  now  observe,  that  this  substance  seems  to 
be  deposited  by  successive  thin  laminae. 

As  we  advanced  up  the  calcareous  region  of 
the  hill,  we  discovered  several  patches  of  rich 
black  earth,  which  appears  to  be  formed  by  the 
decomposition  of  the  calcareous  matter:  in  other 
situations  appeared  an  incrustation  of  limestone, 
i.  e.  the  superficial  earth  was  penetrated,  indu- 
rated and  encrusted  by  lime  with  fine  laminas  or 
minute  fragments  of  iron  ore  :  we  entertained 
no  doubt  that  the  water  of  the  hot  springs  had 
here  issued  formerly  from  the  hill  and  run  over 
the  surface,  and  that  the  entire  mass  of  the  cal- 
careous rock  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet 
perpendicular  has  been  created  by  the  incessant 

depositions 


[  i°5] 

depositions  of  the  hot  springs;  in  this^igh  sit-  ri8o4 
nation  we  found  a  spring  whose  temperature  is  1  December 
140° 

After  passing  the  calcareous  region,  we  found 
the  primitive  hill  covered  by  a  forest,  whose 
trees  were  not  of  the  largest  size ;  they  consisted 
chiefly  of  Oak,  Pine,  Cedar,  Holly,  hawthorn 
with  many  others  common  to  the  climate,  with 
a  great  variety  of  vines,  some  said  to  produce 
black  &  some  yellow  grapes,  both  excellent  in 
their  kinds :  the  soil  is  extremely  rocky,  inter- 
spersed with  gravel,  sand  &  fine  black  vegetable 
mold.  When  we  had  advanced  about  250  feet 
perpendicular  up  the  hill,  we  found  a  change  in 
the  soil ;  it  was  equally  stoney  &  gravelly  as  be- 
low with  a  superficial  coat  of  black  mold  but 
immediately  under  the  last  was  found  a  basis  of 
fat,  tenacious,  soapy,  red  clay,  inclining  to  the 
colour  of  bright  Spanish  snuff;  it  seemed  to  be 
very  homogeneous  with  scarcely  any  admixture 
of  sand  and  no  saline  taste,  but  rather  soft  and 
agreeable ;  the  same  timber  continues  but  di- 
minishing in  size  as  we  ascend  the  hill,  and  rocks 
increasing  to  the  top  :  We  estimate  the  whole 
height  of  the  hill  to  be  about  300  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  valley  where  we  are  hutted.  Therm! 
at  8!"  p.m.  28°    Extremes  26°-5o° 

Thermometer  before  sun-rise  48°  Wind  S.E.  Tuesday  11"' 
The  weather  changed  very  much  in  the  night ; 

it 


[  io6  ] 

1804  1  it  became  much  warmer  and  the  heavens  were 
December j  overcast  with  one  general  cloud ;  the  air  was 
still  damp  and  penetrating,  and  our  mansion  per- 
vious to  the  chilling  blast,  but  we  made  good 
fires  and  comforted  ourselves  in  the  expectation 
of  favorable  weather  to  enable  us  to  complete 
our  observations  and  researches.  The  People  ar- 
rived about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  with  a 
few  things  including  the  instruments. 

At  3^  p.m.  the  thermometer  rose  to  59°  and 
in  the  evening  at  8!*  fell  to  50°,  the  weather  be- 
ing still  disagreeable  and  cloudy.  Some  venison 
was  brought  in  after  dinner  —  The  People  five 
in  number  went  back  to  the  river  to  fetch  tools 
and  necessaries,  while  others  were  occupied  in 
raising  a  log-chimney  at  the  end  of  our  Cabin, 
which  we  proposed  to  line  with  stone  as  a  se- 
curity against  fire.  No  change  in  the  appearance 
of  the  weather  at  bed-time.  Extremes  of  the 
therm!  48°-59° 

Wednesday  1 2»>  Thermometer  before  sun-rise  36°  The  weather 
has  become  colder,  but  still  continues  overcast, 
damp  and  disagreeable,  the  wind  being  about 
north,  a  few  drops  of  rain  fell  last  evening  & 
during  the  night.  As  it  still  continues  cloudy,  no 
astronomical  observations  could  be  made,  I  there- 
fore occupied  myself  in  the  forenoon  in  bringing 
up  and  completing  my  journals,  and  in  the  after- 
noon went  to  examine  all  the  hot  springs  with 

the 


[  I07  ] 

the  thermometer:  four  principal  springs  seemed  f  1804 
only  to  merit  attention;  those  which  yielded  the  \ December 
greatest  quantity  of  water  were  of  the  highest 
temperature  and  are  in  the  following  order.  N°  i 
—  150°  N°2  145° — N°3  — 136  and  N°  4  132° 
the  last  in  order  is  the  only  one  on  the  west 
side  of  the  creek  and  I  did  not  perceive  any 
signs  of  hot  water  anywhere  else  on  that  side  of 
the  Creek,  I  therefore  conceived  that  the  spring 
N?  4  is  supplied  by  a  channel  under  the  Creek 
from  the  general  reservoir  in  the  hill  on  the 
East :  at  the  spring  N°  3  was  a  small  bason  of 
some  little  depth,  in  which  was  a  considerable 
quantity  of  the  green  matter  in  temperature 
1 34?  it  had  much  the  appearance  of  a  vegetating 
body,  being  detached  from  the  bottom  yet  con- 
nected by  something  like  a  stem  which  rested 
in  Calcareous  matter,  the  body  of  one  of  those 
pseudo-plants  was  about  4  to  5  inches  diameter, 
the  bottom  a  smooth  film  of  some  tenacity  & 
the  upper  surface  divided  into  ascending  fibres 
of  ^  to  ^  of  an  inch  long  resembling  the  gills 
of  a  fish,  formed  into  a  kind  of  transverse  rows  ; 
not  being  then  prepared  for  a  more  minute  in- 
vestigation, a  future  examination  will  be  made 
with  the  microscope.  Should  it  prove  that  this 
is  a  vegetable  production  and  not  an  accumula- 
tion caused  by  precipitation,  it  will  be  a  new 
proof  of  the  wonderfull  powers  of  nature  in  the 
production  of  animal  &  vegetable  life  in  tem- 
peratures 


[  'o8] 

1 804  1  peratures  which  have  been  hitherto  thought  suf- 
December  J  fjcjent  to  extinguish  the  vital  principle :  Should 
this  green  matter  prove  to  be  vegetable,  I  shall 
confidently  expect  the  discovery  of  animal  life ; 
for  no  plant  I  believe  upon  due  research  will  be 
found  without  its  animal  inhabitant.  A  little 
farther  on,  we  came  to  another  small  muddy 
bason,  in  which  a  vermes  about  ^  an  inch  long, 
was  moving  with  a  serpentine  or  vermicular  mo- 
tion, the  water  was  found  a  little  warm  to  the 
finger  :  I  observed  invariably  that  the  green  mat- 
ter forming  on  stones  &  leaves  covered  a  stratum 
of  Calcareous  Earth,  sometimes  a  little  hard  & 
brittle,  but  at  other  times  soft  and  imperfect,  but 
whether  the  lime  favors  the  production  of  the 
green  matter  or  vice  versa,  we  probably  shall 
not  have  time  to  ascertain.  Therm?  at  8  p.m. 
36°    Extremes  36°-5o° 

Thursday  13"'  Therm?  before  sunrise  26°  Wind  north.  The 
weather  still  continues  cloudy,  dark  and  disagree- 
able ;  finding  no  probability  of  making  any  as- 
tronomical observations  this  day  I  determined  to 
make  an  excursion  upon  the  neighbouring  west- 
ern mountain,  and  having  gained  one  of  its  sum- 
mits about  y^  a  mile  from  the  Camp,  took  various 
courses  of  Hills  &  points  on  the  river,  &  hav- 
ing gone  to  its  extreme  summit  to  the  westward 
about  a  mile  distant,  I  took  courses  to  the  same 
points  in  order  to  ascertain  nearly  their  positions: 

We 


[  I09  ] 

We  had  several  fine  prospects  from  this  hill,  ("1804 
which  we  estimated  to  be  300  feet  higher  than  \ December 
the  valley  of  the  hot  Springs  where  we  first  as- 
cended, and  400  feet  at  its  western  ^extremity; 
the  valley  of  the  Washita  river  comprehended 
between  the  hills  on  either  side,  seemed  a  per- 
fect flat  &  about  1 2  miles  wide,  on  all  hands  we 
saw  the  hills,  called  here  mountains  rising  be- 
hind each  other :  in  the  direction  of  north  the 
most  distant  were  supposed  to  be  50  miles  off, 
&  are  considered  to  be  those  of  the  arcansa  river, 
the  rugged  mountains  which  divide  the  waters 
of  the  arcansa  from  those  of  the  Washita  prevent 
the  Osage  Indians  from  visiting  the  Washita 
river,  of  whose  existence  they  are  in  general 
ignorant;  were  it  otherwise,  their  excursions 
here,  would  prevent  this  place  being  visited  by 
White  persons  or  even  Indians  of  other  tribes, 
as  they  make  no  difliculty  of  traveling  round  the 
mountains  which  give  birth  to  the  Washita  by 
the  great  prairies,  which  lie  east  of  the  great 
dividing  Ridge,  and  it  is  known  that  those  rob- 
bers plunder  indiscriminately  all  they  can  find. 
In  the  direction  of  S.W.  we  saw  at  about  50  miles 
distance,  a  ridge  perfectly  level  which  we  sup- 
posed to  be  the  high  prairies  or  planes  of  the  red 
river,  so  that  we  had  under  our  Eye  an  horizon 
whose  diameter  was  1 00  miles,  incomplete  to  the 
East  &  N.W.  Notwithstanding  the  late  severity 
of  the  weather,  we  found  along  the  ridge  a  con- 
siderable 


[no] 

1804  }  siderable  number  and  some  variety  of  plants  in 
Decemberj  flQ^gr^  ^  others  retaining  their  verdure.  We 
found  indeed  the  ridge  much  more  temperate 
than  the  valley ;  When  we  left  the  valley  it  was 
extremely  damp,  cold  and  penetrating ;  upon  as- 
cending the  ridge,  the  atmosphere  became  dry 
&  mild,  so  that  walking  thereon  was  perfectly 
agreeable :  a  few  of  the  plants  in  flower  were 
collected  for  specimens,  but  what  surprised  us 
much  was  to  find  upon  this  ridge  a  species  of 
Cabbage,  the  plants  grew  with  expanded  leaves 
spreading  on  the  ground,  of  a  deep  green  with 
a  shade  of  purple,  the  taste  of  the  cabbage  was 
plainly  predominant  with  an  agreeable  warmth 
inclining  to  the  raddish  ;  several  tap-roots  pene- 
trated into  the  soil,  of  a  white  colour,  having 
the  taste  of  horse  raddish,  but  much  milder  ;  a 
quantity  of  them  were  brought  to  camp  &  when 
dressed  proved  palatable  &  mild ;  it  is  highly 
improbable  that  any  Cabbage  seed  has  ever  been 
scattered  upon  this  ridge,  the  hunters  ascending 
this  River  have  always  pursued  far  different  ob- 
jects ;  we  must  therefore  consider  this  Cabbage 
(untill  farther  elucidation)  as  indigenous  to  this 
sequestered  quarter  &  may  be  denominated  the 
Cabbage  raddish  of  the  Washita.  I  shall  preserve 
and  take  with  me  several  living  plants  in  hopes 
of  procuring  in  due  time  seeds  from  which  the 
curious  may  be  furnished.  We  also  found  grow- 
ing here  a  plant  which  is  now  green,  called  by 

the 


[  "I  ] 

the  French  *racine  rouge*  (red  root)  which  is  ri8o4 
said  to  be  a  specific  in  female  obstructions,  it  has  l^^^ccinber 
also  been  used  combined  with  the  china  root  to 
die  red,  which  last  probably  acts  as  a  mordant : 
having  understood  that  it  has  also  been  used  with 
the  bark  or  root  of  an  aromatic  Vine,  (which  I 
shewed  to  M'  Bartram  at  Baton  Rouge)  for  the 
same  purpose  of  fixing  a  red  die.  The  top  of 
this  ridge  is  in  a  manner  crowned  by  rocks  of  a 
flinty  kind.  So  very  hard  as  to  be  improper  for 
gun  flints  ;  when  applied  to  that  purpose,  it  very 
soon  digs  out  cavities  in  the  hammer  of  the  lock. 
This  hard  stone  is  generally  white  but  frequently 
clouded  with  red,  brown  black  &  some  other 
colours,  and  no  doubt  in  the  hands  of  a  practical 
mineralogist,  would  receive  a  variety  of  denomi- 
nations such  as  agate,  jaspar,  calcedony,  Carne- 
lian  &  perhaps  some  of  the  adamantine  genus. 
Notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  rock,  a  great 
deal  of  excellent  black  vegetable  earth  was  found 
along  the  ridge,  and  generally  an  understratum 
of  darkish  or  greyish  brown  earth  producing 
oak  &  Hickory  with  other  woods  &  a  great 
number  of  grape  vines,  said  to  yield  excellent 
black  grapes,  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  soil  upon 
the  top  &  sides  of  these  hills  is  well  adapted  to 
reward  the  labors  of  an  expert  Vigneron.  Here 
&  there  we  met  with  fragments  of  Iron  stone 
&  often  where  a  tree  had  been  overturned  by  the 
roots,  some  schistose  stones  were  brought  to  view 

which 


[  "2] 

i8o4  1  which  were  suffering  decomposition  by  their 
December  J  exposure  to  the  atmosphere;  in  returning  we 
descended  the  hill  obliquely  &  found  for  200 
feet  perpendicular  the  same  kind  of  stone,  much 
broken  into  loose  fragments,  and  slipping  under 
foot  frequently  endangered  our  falling,  the  hill 
being  in  many  places  extremely  precipitous:  in 
this  position  we  dug  into  the  side  of  the  hill 
and  found  the  2*^  stratum  to  consist  of  a  reddish 
Clay  somewhat  resembling  that  found  near  the 
top  of  the  Conical  hill  to  the  East  of  our  Camp, 
but  not  so  highly  coloured  nor  so  argilacious, 
the  proportion  of  silex  being  manifestly  much 
greater.  We  continued  to  descend  and  found  at 
^  of  the  hill  downwards,  the  rock  to  alter  con- 
siderably. &  altho'  it  still  continued  siliceous,  yet 
it  was  rather  a  very  hard  freestone  mixed  with 
fragments  of  flint  which  had  probably  rolled 
from  above,  descending  still  lower  we  found  a 
blue  schistus,  in  a  state  tending  to  decomposition 
wherever  it  was  exposed  to  the  atmosphere; 
more  interiorly  the  schistus  was  hard  resembling 
coarse  Slate.  Few  other  argilacious  stones  pre- 
sented themselves  to  view,  the  siliceous  were  al- 
ways predominant ;  &  we  often  found  what  had 
much  the  appearance  of  the  Turkey  oyl-stone. 
Towards  the  base  of  the  hill  was  a  considerable 
expansion  of  tollerably  good  land,  lying  suffi- 
ciently level  for  cultivation  and  is  supposed  to  be 
a  good  soil  for  wheat.  The  timber  such  as  above 

described 


described  with    a    large    proportion    of  Pine.  ri8o4 
Therm^' at  8^  p.m.  30°   Extremes  26^-40°  wind  IDecember 
North. 

Therm^  28°  Wind  N.E.  Cloudy,  dark,  cold  Friday  14'.^ 
and  sleet — This  morning  has  made  no  improve- 
ment upon  the  weather ;  rain  &  sleet  fell  in  the 
night  &  the  ground  is  hard  frozen.  D-*^  Hunter 
had  proposed  an  excursion  into  the  mountains 
with  a  Party  this  day,  but  the  appearance  of  the 
weather  forbids  it :  the  bad  state  of  our  mansion 
calling  for  further  repairs  in  the  present  severe 
weather,  we  employed  some  of  our  people  in 
shutting  up  the  cracks  and  openings  between  the 
logs,  which  will  render  our  dwelling  more  com- 
fortable ;  placed  some  of  the  flowers  collected 
between  hortus-siccus-paper  and  had  the  roots 
of  the  new  Cabbage  planted  so  as  to  be  preserved 
until  our  return. 

The  day  continues  to  drip  a  little  from  time 
to  time,  being  still  dark,  damp  and  disagreeably 
cold.  Therm^""  at  8^  p.m.  32°  Extremes  28°- 
40°  We  have  news  from  the  Sergeant  that  the 
river  has  fallen  5  feet. 

Therm'f  26°  Wind  N.W.  strong.   The  morn-  Saturday  15'!' 
ing  was  cloudy,  but  less  dark  and  disagreeable 
than  the  day  before.  The  air  became  drier  and 
the  clouds  were  dissipating  by  9  &  10  o'clock ; 
prepared  for  a  meridian  observation ;  the  wind 

blew 


[>H] 

1804  1  blew  very  strong  down  the  valley,  we  are  here 
December  J  pj^ced  as  in  a  point  of  convergence ;  for  whether 
the  wind  blows  directly  or  obliquely  into  the 
valley  from  above  or  below,  it  is  reflected  from 
the  faces  of  the  hills  on  one  hand  &  by  three 
lesser  vallies  on  the  other  so  as  to  have  its  force 
directed  against  this  point  as  a  Center;  there 
will  therefore  be  a  breeze  here  when  there  is 
none  upon  the  adjoining  hills,  perhaps  the  rare- 
faction produced  by  the  hot  Springs  may  also 
contribute  in  some  measure  at  this  season.  At 
noon  had  an  observation  altho'  much  disturbed 
by  the  frequent  recurrence  of  violent  blasts  of 
wind  which  greatly  agitated  the  mercury  of  the 
artificial  horizon  ;  it  appears  that  the  Lat.  here 
will  be  about  34°  31',  but  as  I  intend  to  make  a 
short  series  of  observations  with  the  face  of  the 
Instrument  both  East  &  west,  the  final  result 
will  then  appear.  Therm*?  at  3^  p.m.  32°  at  S^ 
p.m.  30° 

Sunday  le^i^  Thermf  21°  Wind  moderate  N  W  this 
morning  is  cold  but  promises  fine  weather,  the 
wind  nevertheless  arose  at  9  o'clock  &  continued 
to  blow  strong  all  day.  Prepared  for  astronomi- 
cal observations.  Took  corresponding  equal  alti- 
tudes of  the  Sun  with  corresponding  azimuths 
before  &  afternoon,  with  the  help  of  a  common 
circumferenter,  by  which  it  appears  that  the 
magnetic  variation  is  8°  20'   East ;  this  being 

about 


[  "5  ] 

about  the  expected  variation,  we  may  conclude,  ri8o4 
that  the  needle  is  not  here  influenced  by  any  "^  ^^^"^  ^^ 
local  attraction  Took  also  equal  altitudes  for  the 
regulation  of  the  watch  before  &  afternoon. 
Took  also  the  Suns  mer.  alt.  with  the  face  of 
the  Instrument  reversed,  and  in  the  Evening  be- 
tween lo  &  II  o'clock,  the  ThermV  being  at 
22°  perfectly  serene  &  calm,  took  9  lunar  dis- 
tances between  the  moon's  east  limb  &  a  Arie- 
tis ;  the  evening  was  perfectly  agreeable  &  not 
sensibly  cold  altho'  the  Therm'f  was  so  low ;  I 
conclude  these  observations  to  have  been  made 
with  great  accuracy  from  the  advantages  of  the 
circumstances,  the  Circle  was  mounted  on  its 
pedestral  very  firmly,  the  Star  towards  the  west 
&  the  moon  over  head  so  that  when  both  were 
brought  into  the  field  of  view  &  the  Star  made 
to  move  gently  across  the  limb  of  the  moon  by 
a  turn  of  the  foot  screw  backwards  &  forwards, 
or  by  sliding  the  foot  a  little  to  the  right  &  left 
so  as  to  discover  the  true  point  of  contact  on  the 
moon's  limb,  the  Star  being  left  a  little  open, 
the  observer  had  only  to  wait  with  his  eye  fixed 
on  a  permanent  steady  object  untill  he  was  con- 
vinced of  the  contact  being  perfect ;  I  consider 
one  observation  made  in  this  way  superior  to  any 
number  or  set  of  observations  made  by  an  in- 
strument supported  upon  the  arms  of  the  most 
experienced  observer;  I  would  therefore  recom- 
mend to  all  persons  using  a  Sextant  or  reflecting 

Circle 


[  "6] 

i8o4  1  Circle  by  land,  to  adopt  a  pedestal  of  support 
December  J  ^j^h  the  three  necessary  motions ;  the  superior- 
ity is  so  great  that  he  who  has  accustomed  him- 
self to  use  the  one  mode  cannot  reconcile  him- 
self to  the  manifest  imperfection  of  the  other ; 
the  observation  being  made  the  angle  is  read  off 
without  stirring  the  Instrument,  so  that  every 
thing  is  ready  fixed  to  the  eye  for  the  next  ob- 
servation ;  I  perceive  that  when  all  things  are 
favorable  a  set  of  distances  may  be  taken  by  the 
difference  of  i'  of  a  degree  precisely  between  the 
observations ;  i.  e.  by  moving  the  index  before 
making  the  observation,  exactly  one  minute  in 
advance,  so  that  it  may  be  written  down  by  the 
assistant  before  the  time  of  counting  Seconds : 
this  will  operate  as  a  check  also  upon  the  negli- 
gences of  young  assistants,  a  mistake  in  minutes 
of  time  would  thus  be  easily  detected ;  this  mode 
I  shall  follow  in  future,  as  being  easier  and  more 
perfect:  Therm?  at  8^  p.m.  22°  Extremes  21°- 

34° 

Monday  17"^  Therm^f  before  Sun  rise  26°  wind  moderate 
N.W.  The  morning  is  bright  &  promises  a  fine 
day.  Yesterday  Doc?  Hunter  made  an  excursion 
into  the  mountains,  &  to  day  he  goes  again.  He 
discovered  nothing  of  importance  hitherto,  the 
only  metal  of  which  we  have  seen  any  indica- 
tions has  been  Iron,  the  ore  of  which  is  scattered 
about  in  small  fragments  upon  the  hills  and  in 

the 


[  117] 

the  water  courses.  Prepared  for  observation —  ri8o4 
took  equal  altitudes  of  the  Sun  before  &  after-  \  December 
noon  to  correct  the  watch,  which  compared  with 
the  result  of  yesterday's  equal  altitudes  will  give 
the  rate  of  the  watch's  going,  by  which  the  true 
time  of  the  Lunar  observations  will  be  precisely 
ascertained :  took  the  Sun's  meridian  altitude 
with  the  face  of  the  Instrument  again  reversed  : 
prepared  to  observe  the  distance  of  the  moon 
from  Aldebaran,  expecting  fine  observations  from 
so  bright  a  Star,  but  we  were  disappointed,  the 
evening  become  hazy,  the  Stars  frequently  ob- 
scured, and  a  large  halo  with  a  broad  white  brim 
appeared  around  the  moon.  The  night  became 
cloudy  &  some  drops  of  rain  or  sleet  fell,  appear- 
ance of  bad  weather  for  to  morrow  ThermV  at 
8!"  p.m.  28°  Extremes  26°-42° 

ThermV  34°  wind  north.  Cold,  damp,  dis- Tuesday  18''' 
agreeable.  The  appearance  of  the  weather  pre- 
vents D"' Hunter  from  making  another  excursion 
to  day,  some  rain  fell  in  the  night,  but  the  aspect 
of  this  morning  bespeaks  snow  or  sleet.  Hav- 
ing no  better  occupation  in  the  present  state  of 
the  weather,  I  brought  up  my  journals  and  began 
to  form  a  list  of  all  the  vegetables  I  had  seen 
here  and  in  the  neighbourhood  upon  the  River 
which  will  be  inserted  in  this  journal  when  made 
a  little  more  complete ;  The  day  continues  dark, 
cloudy  &  rainy  :   in  the  afternoon  it  began  to 

hail 


[  "8  ] 

i8o4         1  hail  &  in  the  evening  it  snowed  pretty  fast; 
December  J  ^\^q^^  ^h  ^^^^  j^  ^^g  ^   inches  thick ;  Thermf 

at  the  same  hour  32°  Extremes  32°— 36- 

This  evening  Doc?  Hunter  w^as  very  much 
indisposed  but  was  relieved  before  bed  time. 

Wednesday  19!^  Therm?  30°  wind  in  the  valley  West,  but 
changeable ;  This  morning  we  have  a  full  pros- 
pect of  a  northern  winter,  the  ground  is  covered 
4  inches  deep  with  snow  and  it  continues  from 
time  to  time  to  fall,  tho'  not  remarkably  fast, 
the  eves  of  our  Cabin  hang  with  beautiful  icicles, 
which  we  have  the  pleasure  of  admiring  thro' 
the  logs  as  we  sit  by  the  fire  side :  out-door  busi- 
ness being  out  of  the  question,  I  continue  to 
augment  my  list  of  vegetables  from  memory  & 
with  the  help  of  the  pilot,  who  proves  to  be  tol- 
erably intelligent.  The  Doctor  has  been  unable 
to  discover  any  thing  in  the  water  of  the  hot 
springs  except  some  weak  acid  which  is  prob- 
ably carbonic ;  the  water  has  been  from  this 
cause  a  little  hard  &  therefore  not  so  proper  for 
washing,  as  the  soap  is  decomposed  in  some 
measure  :  the  same  state  of  the  weather  contin- 
ues, the  therm?  at  3^?  p.m.  being  at  30°  and  at 
S^  p.m.  28?  at  bed  time  the  weather  still  con- 
tinues dark  and  threatening  more  snow. 

Thursday  20""      Therm'  30°  wind  in  the  valley  west.  There 
appears  over  head  driving  light  clouds  from  the 

N.W. 


[  "9] 

N.W.  The  snow  still  continues  lying  on  the  f  1804 
ground,  the  night  was  very  cold,  but  has  greatly  L  December 
softened  towards  morning,  from  appearances  we 
expect  a  thaw,  it  becomes  a  little  clearer.  The 
D?5  and  myself  both  a  little  indisposed  probably 
from  cold  &  wet  feet  and  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather ;  after  breakfast,  some  hopes  of  the 
clouds  dissipating.  The  Sun  has  shewn  himself 
thro'  the  veil  of  clouds  for  a.  moment.  Prepare 
for  observation  but  disappointed  the  heavens  are 
again  completely  veiled  in  clouds  and  a  thaw 
comes  on,  the  Therm^'  being  at  36?  at  3^  p.m. 
Engaged  writing  great  part  of  the  day.  Exam- 
ined some  water  of  one  of  the  hot  springs,  which 
stood  a  little  stagnated  on  one  side,  its  tempera- 
ture 132°  found  no  living  animal  in  it,  by  the  aid 
of  an  excellent  microscope  examined  also  some 
of  the  green  matter  and  the  white  coagulum 
lying  under  it  which  I  shall  further  prosecute 
with  day  light,  being  unable  yet  to  determine 
whether  the  green  matter  is  vegetable  or  merely 
a  feculum.  Therm-  at  i  o^  p.m.  32°  The  weather 
continues  cloudy  &  the  snow  lies  upon  the 
ground  the  thaw  having  stopped. 

Therm*',  32°  Wind  N.  No  favorable  change  Friday  21" 
as  yet  in  the  weather ;  cloudy,  damp,  dark  & 
cold,  the  snow  still  lies  upon  the  ground,  so 
that  the  D-"^  is  unable  to  undertake  another  more 
considerable  excursion  as  he  intended.  We  were 

in 


[     I20    ] 

i8o4  1  ini  hopes  also  of  making  another  set  of  astro- 
December  j  nomical  observations  for  the  Long,  of  this  place, 
but  as  the  time  is  now  much  advanced  we  shall 
be  desirous  of  getting  away  as  soon  as  the  weather 
permits  the  transport  of  our  baggage :  —  in  the 
meantime  the  Doctor  is  desireous  of  making 
another  excursion  while  we  are  preparing  to 
move :  observed  a  spot  of  ground  on  the  same 
side  of  the  creek  with  the  hot  Springs,  covered 
with  herbage  which  had  not  lost  but  partially  its 
verdure ;  upon  this  spot  no  snow  lay,  it  appeared 
to  thaw  as  soon  as  it  fell,  altho'  on  other  places 
even  very  near  some  of  the  hot  springs  the  snow 
remained  undissolved;  as  soon  as  the  weather 
permits  I  shall  examine  this  ground  and  ascer- 
tain the  temperature  which  resists  the  rigours 
of  winter :  what  a  fine  situation  for  a  green  or 
hot  house,  where  at  a  small  expence  all  the 
tropical  fruits  may  be  propagated.  Therm^f  at  3*? 
p.m.  36°  it  has  rained  a  little  we  were  in  hopes 
of  seeing  the  snow  carried  away,  that  it  might 
afterwards  become  dry  under  foot :  yesterday 
our  pilot  &  some  of  the  people  went  out  a  hunt- 
ing &  fell  in  with  some  buffalo  ;  two  of  them 
were  shot  at  and  grievously  wounded,  the  blood 
streaming  from  their  sides  as  this  happened  in 
the  evening  they  were  unable  to  follow  the 
chase,  but  returned  to  the  pursuit  this  morning, 
they  discovered  the  tracks  and  blood  which  they 
followed  great  part  of  the  day  without  com- 
ing 


[  '2'  ] 

ing  up  with  the  buffalo  &  were  obliged  to  re-  J 1804 
turn  without  success ;  it  appears  that  the  great  I  December 
strength  of  this  animal  enables  him  to  carry  off 
on  many  occasions  several  shots  without  falling, 
it  is  necessary  to  shoot  him  thro*  the  heart  to 
make  him  fall  speedily  ;  we  are  told  that  a  rifle 
bullet  is  by  no  means  certain  (if  ever  so  well 
directed)  of  penetrating  thro'  the  scull  into  the 
brain,  or  if  it  does,  provided  the  ball  only  reaches 
into  the  front  or  fore  part  of  the  brain,  the  an- 
imal will  not  fall ;  some  even  assert  that  the 
thickness  and  strength  of  the  scull  with  the  im- 
mense quantity  of  hair  which  covers  the  head 
of  the  buffalo  will  resist  the  penetration  of  an 
ordinary  rifle  bullet.  Some  venison  was  brought 
in  so  that  we  are  never  without  fresh  provisions. 
The  Turkeys  are  not  plenty  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, keeping  near  the  river.  Found  a  myrtle 
wax  tree  covered  with  its  fruit,  which  must 
have  hung  since  July  or  August,  the  wax  is  no 
longer  green  having  changed  its  colour  to  a 
greyish  white  by  being  so  long  exposed  to  the 
atmosphere  ;  examined  the  berries  with  the  mi- 
croscope ;  the  whole  berry  is  a  little  oval  and 
less  than  the  smallest  garden  pea,  the  nucleus  or 
real  seed  is  as  large  as  a  raddish  seed  covered  all 
over  with  a  number  of  brownish  kidney  shaped 
glands  of  a  brown  colour  &  sweetish  taste,  those 
glands  secrete  the  wax,  which  completely  en- 
velopes them  &  gives  the  whole  the  appearance 

at 


[    122    ] 

i8o4        1  at  this  season  of  an  imperfectly  white  berry; 

Decemberj  ^j^jg  ^g  ^  valuable  plant  and  merits  cultivation ; 
its  favorite  position  is  a  dry  soil  rather  poor  & 
looking  dow^n  upon  the  water,  it  is  excellently 
adapted  to  ornament  the  Margins  of  Canals, 
lakes  or  rivulets ;  the  Capina  Yapon  is  equally 
beautiful  &  proper  for  the  same  purpose.  It 
grows  here  along  the  banks  of  this  stoney  Creek 
intermingled  with  the  myrtle,  and  bears  a  beau- 
tiful little  red  berry  very  much  resembling  the 
red  Currant.  Thermal  at  S^  p.m.  31° 

Saturday  22".?  Therm^  3 1  °  wind  N.  dark  &  cloudy,  the  Snow 
continues  upon  the  ground,  without  any  pros- 
pect of  favourable  change  ;  after  breakfast  it  be- 
gan to  rain,  the  water  the  rain  froze  as  it  fell 
upon  the  branches  of  the  trees,  many  limbs  broke 
down  around  us  in  consequence  of  the  weight  of 
the  Ice  adhering  to  them ;  we  are  still  confined 
within  doors  by  the  inclemency  of  the  weather 
which  greatly  retards  us,  so  that  we  cannot  even 
prosecute  our  intended  researches  respecting  the 
hot  springs.  Engaged  writing  great  part  of  the 
day  ;  we  had  i  o  quarts  of  the  hot  spring  water 
evaporated  which  produced  about  10  grains  of 
matter,  of  which  the  chief  part  appeared  to  be 
carbonated  lime  with  some  feculum,  the  greater 
part  disolved  with  effervescence  in  the  muriatic 
acid.  The  Therms  at  3*?  p.  m.  36°  The  day 
continues   unfavorable  &  keeps  dropping  rain 

from 


[   123  ] 

from  time  to  time,  yet  the  snow  does  not  melt :  j'1804 
The  temperature  of  the  hot  springs  remains  the  \  December 
same  as  in  the  former  trial  &  the  temperature  of 
boiling  water  was  ascertained  to  be  212°  hence 
it  appears  that  this  place  is  not  elevated  so  as 
sensibly  to  alter  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere, 
otherwise  water  would  boil  at  a  smaller  temper- 
ature. Caused  a  number  of  the  grape  vines  to  be 
dug  up  ready  to  carry  along  with  us.  The  Doctor 
goes  on  with  some  more  experiments  upon  the 
Spring  water,  the  results  will  be  hereafter  given. 
Therm*;^  at  8^  p.m.  34°  Snow  falls  again  this 
Evening  —  no  prospect  of  a  change. 

Therm*;'  before  sunrise  30°.  Wind  N.W.  by  Sunday  23"* 
the  clouds,  blows  down  the  valley  reflected  from 
the  side  of  the  hill  N.N.E  ;  this  morning  some 
appearance  of  a  change.  The  clouds  (scudding 
from  the  N.W.)  begin  to  dissipate,  the  blue 
celestial  Sky  appears  in  several  parts  of  the  hea- 
vens. The  snow  still  lies  partially  on  the  ground 
—  but  we  hope  it  will  soon  disolve  as  the  Sun 
appears ;  prepare  for  taking  equal  altitudes  in 
which  I  succeeded  so  far  as  to  take  the  triple 
contact  in  the  morning  for  the  regulation  of  the 
watch  and  also  one  azimuth  with  time  &  alti- 
tude for  finding  the  variation  of  the  magnetic 
needle ;  prepared  for  a  meridian  observation  in 
order  to  complete  my  set  of  4  observations  for 
the  Latitude  of  this  place,  but  was  disappointed 

by 


[   124  ] 

i8o4  1  by  the  intervention  of  Clouds ;  seeing  no  pros- 
December]  pgj,^.  q£  taking  correspondent  altitudes  in  the 
afternoon  determined  on  visiting  the  hot  springs 
&  adjacent  places :  It  requires  a  length  of  time 
to  form  a  good  judgement  of  a  new  object,  such 
as  the  curious  one  now  before  us,  on  the  first 
view  we  see  a  creek  with  a  margin  of  rock  & 
the  hot  springs  here  and  there  trickling  over  or 
passing  thro'  them;  the  Creek  seems  to  be  un- 
dermining the  rock,  which  frequently  cracks, 
divides  and  falls  into  the  Creek ;  upon  a  closer 
examination  it  will  be  found  that  the  water  of 
the  Creek  does  not  undermine  the  rock,  but  on 
the  contrary  the  rock  is  continually  encroaching 
upon  the  breadth  of  the  creek ;  the  hot  water 
is  perpetually  depositing  calcareous  matter,  per- 
haps some  siliceous  matter  also  :  the  new  formed 
rock  by  those  means  is  continually  augmenting 
&  projecting  its  cliffs  and  promontories  over  the 
running  water,  which  prevents  this  formation 
below  its  own  surface :  wherever  the  calcareous 
crust  is  seen  spreading  over  the  bank  &  margin 
of  the  Creek,  there  most  certainly  the  hot  water 
will  be  found,  either  passing  over  the  surface  or 
thro'  some  channel  perhaps  below  the  new  rock, 
or  dripping  from  the  projecting  edges  of  the 
over-hanging  precipice  ;  the  progress  of  nature 
in  the  formation  of  this  new  rock  is  curious  & 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  mineralogist ;  when 
the  hot  water  issues  from  the  fountain  it  fre- 
quently 


[  "25  ] 

quently  spreads  over  a  superficies  of  some  extent ;  J 1 804 
so  far  as  it  reaches  on  either  hand  there  is  a  de-  \  December 
position  of  dark  green  matter  which  may  either 
be  a  plant  or  only  a  feculum,  I  have  not  yet 
been  able  to  pronounce  w^hich,  several  laminae 
of  this  green  matter  will  be  found  lying  over  each 
other;  immediately  under  and  in  contact  with 
the  inferior  lamina  which  is  not  thicker  than 
paper  is  found  a  whitish  matter  resembling  a 
coagulum ;  when  viewed  with  the  microscope, 
this  last  is  also  found  to  consist  of  several,  some- 
times a  great  number  of  lamina?,  of  which  that 
next  the  green  matter  is  the  thinest  and  finest 
being  the  last  formed,  those  below  encreasing  in 
thickness  &  tenacity,  until  the  last  terminates  on 
a  soft  earthy  matter,  and  this  last  reposing  on 
the  more  solid  rock  ;  each  lamina  of  the  coagu- 
lum is  penetrated  in  all  its  parts  by  calcareous 
grains  which  are  extremely  minute  and  divided 
in  the  more  recent  web  but  much  larger  and 
occupying  the  whole  of  the  inferior  lamina  ;  I 
think  it  probable  that  the  coagulum  is  silex  and 
no  doubt  the  grains  are  lime  the  under  stratum 
is  continually  consolidating  &  adding  bulk  and 
heigth  to  the  rock  ;  when  this  acquires  a  certain 
elevation  the  water  always  seeking  the  quickest 
descent  will  find  its  way  over  another  part  of  the 
rock,  hill  or  margin  of  the  creek  &  forms  accu- 
mulations by  turns  over  the  whole  of  the  adjacent 
space ;  the  green  matter  is  also  designed  by  nature 

for 


[   «26] 

1 804  1  for  a  useful  purpose ;  when  the  water  by  seeking 
Decemberj  ^g^  channels  has  entirely  forsaken  its  former 
situation,  the  green  matter  which  acquires  some- 
times a  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  is  speedily 
converted  into  a  rich  vegitable  earth  &  becomes 
the  food  of  plants,  the  calcareous  surface  itself 
decomposes  and  forms  the  richest  black  mold 
intimately  mixed  with  a  considerable  proportion 
of  silex  (formed  as  I  have  supposed  from  the 
coagulum)  plants  and  trees  of  every  kind  now 
vegetate  luxuriantly  upon  this  soil ;  many  how- 
ever thrive  upon  the  rock,  where  very  little  earth 
is  to  be  seen,  particularly  the  cedar  which  seems 
to  grow  from  between  the  clefts  of  the  hard  rock. 
The  grape  vine  also  seems  to  prosper  in  this  un- 
promising situation.  I  proceeded  to  examine  the 
piece  of  ground  (above-mentioned)  upon  which 
the  snow  would  not  lie:  I  found  it  covered  in  a 
great  measure  with  herbage,  which  was  in  part 
turned  brownish  by  the  season,  altho'  there  was 
on  a  part  of  it  a  very  small  fine  grass  which  was 
green,  a  calcareous  Crust  appeared  in  some  places 
at  the  surface  but  in  general  there  was  a  depth 
of  5  or  6  inches  &  in  some  places  a  foot  of  the 
richest  black  mold,  the  surface  was  manifestly 
warm  to  the  touch ;  the  ThermV  in  the  air  was 
then  at  44?  when  placed  4  inches  under  the 
surface  &  covered  with  earth,  it  rose  rapidly  to 
68°  and  when  placed  at  8  inches  or  upon  the 
calcareous  rock  and  covered  up  it  rose  to  80? 

this 


[  127  ] 

this  result  was  very  uniform  over  the  whole  f  1804 
surface  which  was  about  a  quarter  of  an  acre  :  1  December 
in  searching  we  found  a  spring  about  1 5  inches 
under  the  surface  which  raised  the  ThermH  to 
1 30?  Under  the  black  mold  was  found  a  brown 
mixture  of  lime  and  silex  very  loose  and  divisi- 
ble, which  appeared  to  be  advancing  in  its  pro- 
gress of  decomposition  towards  the  formation  of 
black  mold,  under  the  brownish  mass  it  grad- 
ually became  whiter  and  harder  and  at  the  depth 
of  six  to  1 2  inches  was  nearly  hard  calcareous 
stone  sparkling  with  silex  :  it  was  evident  from 
every  thing  we  saw  around  that  the  water  had 
passed  over  this  place  &  formed  a  flat  superfi- 
cies of  siliceous  limestone,  and  that  its  position 
nearly  level  had  facilitated  the  accumulation  of 
earth  in  proportion  as  the  decomposition  ad- 
vanced :  Similar  spots  of  earth  were  found  higher 
up.  The  hill  resembling  little  Savannahs  near 
which  were  always  found  hot  springs,  which 
had  once  flowed  over  the  Savannahs  ;  it  seems 
probable  that  the  hot  water  of  the  springs,  at  an 
early  period  had  all  issued  from  its  grand  recer- 
voir  in  the  hill  at  a  much  higher  elevation  than 
at  present,  the  Calcareous  crust  may  be  traced 
up  in  most  situations  on  the  west  side  of  the 
hill  looking  down  upon  the  Creek  &  valley  to 
a  certain  heigth, perhaps  100  feet  perpend:  from 
that  division  the  hill  above  rises  precipitously  & 
is  studded  all  over  with  hard  siliceous  stones ; 

below 


[  '28  ] 

i8o4  1  below  the  descent  is  more  gradual,  the  soil  cal- 
Decembcr  J  careous  black  earth,  the  rock  itself  very  often  at 
the  surface,  &  frequently  there  is  a  precipice 
on  the  margin  of  the  Creek  or  a  very  precipi- 
tous descent  along  the  calcarious  new  formed 
rock.  The  Therm?  at  3^  p.m.  was  at  44°  and  at 
S^  p.m.  38°  Doctor  Hunter  continues  indis- 
posed. 

Monday  24.^^  Therm?  before  Sun  rise  32?  Wind  moderate 
from  N.W.  Some  prospect  this  morning  of  a 
favorable  change,  the  moon  is  visible,  and  the 
Sun  yet  behind  the  hill,  announces  his  approach 
with  a  bright  blase :  prepare  for  observation 
—  took  the  suns  triple  contact,  hoping  to  ob- 
tain correspondent  observations  in  the  afternoon 
to  regulate  the  watch.  The  moon  was  already 
eclipsed  by  the  Pine  tree  tops  on  the  western 
hill  before  the  sun  was  risen  high  enough  in 
the  East  to  enable  us  to  take  their  distance  ;  We 
were  therefore  obliged  to  wait  with  patience 
and  ordered  all  the  intervening  trees  to  be  cut 
down  to  facilitate  future  observation :  at  noon 
obtained  a  good  altitude  of  the  Sun  but  soon 
afterwards  it  became  cloudy,  so  that  we  got  no 
corresponding  altitudes  for  the  regulation  of  the 
watch. 

The  Doctor  found  himself  a  little  better,  we 
agreed  to  walk  up  the  hot  spring  hill  to  make 
new  observations  on  this  natural  curiosity:   we 

now 


[   129  ] 

now  found  it  easy  to  trace  out  the  separation  be-  f  1804 
tween  the  primitive  hill  &  that  which  has  been  t^^^^'"^^'' 
accumulated  upon  its  west  side  by  precipitation 
from  y'  waters  of  the  hot  Springs ;  this  last  is 
entirely  confined  to  the  west  side  of  the  hill 
washed  at  its  base  by  the  waters  of  the  Creek, 
no  hot  spring  being  visible  in  any  other  part  of 
its  circumference ;  by  actual  measurement  along 
the  base  of  the  hill,  the  influence  of  the  Springs 
is  found  to  extend  70  perches  in  a  direction  a 
little  to  the  eastward  of  North ;  along  the  whole 
of  this  space  the  Springs  have  deposited  stoney 
matter,  which  is  probably  principally  Calcare- 
ous, but  there  is  also  evidence  of  Silex  and  Iron. 
All  the  Springs  deposit  red  calx  of  Iron  in  their 
passage  to  the  Creek ;  the  existence  of  Silex  does 
not  appear  to  me  to  be  so  fully  decided ;  there 
is  certainly  sparkling  chrystals  mingled  with  the 
lime,  particularly  remarkable  in  the  calcarious 
matter  partially  decomposed,  but  having  ob- 
served by  the  aid  of  the  microscope  that  the 
whole  of  the  calcarious  rock  exhibits  nothing 
but  a  mass  of  congregated  sparry  matter,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  those  shining  chrystals  may  be 
chrystalised  lime;  the  Doctor  is  now  employed 
upon  an  analysis  which  will,  no  doubt,  decide 
the  point;  from  some  specimens  I  shall  carry 
home  with  me,  I  shall  hope  to  investigate  the 
matter  more  at  leisure.  The  accumulation  of  cal- 
carious matter  is  much  more  considerable  at  the 

north 


[  I30  ] 

i8o4        1  north  end  of  the  hill  than  towards  the  south; 

December  J  ^^le  first  may  be  above  one  hundred  feet  perpen- 
dicular, but  sloping  much  more  gradually  than 
the  primitive  hill  above,  until  it  approaches  the 
creek,  vv^here  not  unfrequently  it  terminates  in 
a  precipice  of  from  6  to  20  feet :  the  difference 
between  the  appearance  of  the  primitive  and 
secondary  hill  is  so  striking,  that  the  most  su- 
perficial observer  cannot  avoid  taking  notice  of 
it :  the  first  is  regularly  very  steep  studded  with 
rock  and  stone  of  the  hardest  flint  and  other 
siliceous  compounds  all  extremely  hard,  a  su- 
perficies of  two  or  3  inches  of  good  mold  covers 
a  body  of  red  clay  above  described :  below  on 
the  secondary  hill,  which  carries  evident  marks 
of  recent  formation,  no  flint  or  siliceous  stone  is 
to  be  seen;  the  Calcareous  rock  has  concealed 
all  from  view,  &  is  itself  frequently  covered  by 
much  fine  rich  black  earth  ;  it  would  seem  that 
this  compound  which  is  precipitated  by  the  hot 
waters,  encloses  in  its  own  bosom  the  seeds  of 
its  destruction,  for  it  is  remarkable  that  when 
the  waters  have  ceased  to  flow  over  any  portion 
of  the  rock,  a  superficial  decomposition  will 
there  speedily  take  place;  tho'  I  am  inclined  to 
suspect  that  heat  communicated  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  hill  below  contributes  much  to  this 
operation  of  nature,  because  it  is  observable,  that 
insulated  masses  of  the  rock  remain  without 
change. 

The 


[  '3«  ] 

The  Cedar,  the  Wax-Myrtle  and  the  Cassina  ri8o4 
Yapon,  all  beautiful  evergreens  attach  themselves  1  December 
particularly  to  the  calcareous  region,  &  seem  to 
grow  and  thrive  in  the  clefts  of  the  solid  rock : 
at  small  intervals  along  the  line  of  separation 
between  the  primitive  and  secondary  hill,  we 
discover  many  sources  of  hot  water ;  some  flow- 
ing with  some  degree  of  freedom,  &  others  in 
a  manner  stagnated  and  shut  in  by  the  accumula- 
tions of  Stoney  Concretion  extracted  by  their 
own  operation  from  the  bowels  of  the  hill.  Any 
spring  enjoying  a  freedom  of  position  proceeds 
with  great  regularity  in  depositing  its  solid  con- 
tents ;  the  border  or  rim  of  its  bason  forms  an 
elevated  ridge,  from  whence  proceeds  a  glacis 
all  around ;  when  the  waters  have  flowed  for 
some  time  over  one  part  of  the  brim,  this  be- 
comes more  elevated  &c  the  water  can  no  longer 
escape  on  that  side,  but  is  compelled  to  seek  a 
passage  where  the  resistance  is  least,  thus  it  pro- 
ceeds with  the  greatest  regularity  forming  in 
miniature  a  Crater  resembling  in  shape  the  con- 
ical summit  of  a  volcano  ;  the  hill  being  steep 
above,  the  progress  of  petrifaction  is  stopped  on 
that  side,  &  the  waters  continue  to  flow  and 
spread  abroad,  encrusting  the  whole  face  of  the 
hill  below.  I  am  persuaded  that  the  accumula- 
tions and  extent  of  the  calcareous  matter  would 
have  been  vastly  greater,  perhaps  the  whole  val- 
ley might  have  been  filled  up  with  it,  did  not 

the 


[  132  ] 

i8o4  1  the  continual  running  of  the  creek  water  put 
Decemberj  ^  g^^p  ^^  j^g  progression  on  that  side :  the  last 
formed  calcareous  border  of  the  circular  bason, 
(covered  by  the  green  feculum)  is  soft  and  easily 
divided,  a  little  under  it  is  more  compact,  and 
at  the  depth  of  six  inches,  it  is  generally  hard 
white  stone ;  if  the  bottom  of  the  bason  is  stirred 
up,  a  quantity  of  red  calx  of  iron  arises  and  es- 
capes over  the  summit  of  the  crater. 

It  is  surprising  to  see  plants,  shrubs  and  trees 
with  their  roots  absolutely  in  the  hot  water ; 
this  circumstance  being  observed  by  some  of  the 
visitants  of  the  hot  springs  has  induced  some  of 
them  to  try  experiments  by  sticking  branches  of 
trees  into  the  run  of  hot  water  ;  we  found  some 
branches  of  the  wax-Myrtle  thrust  into  the  bot- 
tom of  a  spring-run,  the  water  being  at  tem- 
perature 130°  of  Farheneit's  thermometer,  the 
foliage  &  fruit  of  the  branch  were  not  only  sound 
and  healthy,  but  at  the  very  surface  of  the  water 
fresh  roots  were  actually  sprouting  from  the 
branch ;  the  whole  being  pulled  up  for  exami- 
nation, it  was  found  that  the  part  which  had 
penetrated  into  the  hot  mud  was  decayed :  this 
phenomenon  is  so  new  &  singular,  that  few  per- 
sons will  at  first  be  disposed  to  believe,  judging 
that  deception  or  want  of  accuracy  has  led  us 
into  error  ;  it  is  however  in  the  power  of  every 
curious  person  who  will  give  himself  the  neces- 
sary trouble  to  try  the  experiments  himself;  in 

the 


[  '33  ] 

the  meantime  Doctor  Hunter  and  his  son  are  ri8o4 
evidences  of  the  truth  of  the  above  statement.  [December 
—  A  luxuriant  vegetation  clothes  the  decom- 
posed surface  of  the  calcareous  region,  the  black 
rich  mold  being  of  a  good  depth  in  some  few 
places  (6  or  more  inches)  &  in  others  shallower, 
and  the  rock  in  other  situations  is  nearly  un- 
changed, giving  nourishment  however  to  a  mass 
of  very  short  moss,  which  is  gradually  forming 
a  soil  different  in  appearance  from  that  which 
is  generated  from  the  decomposed  lime.  The 
primitive  part  of  the  hill  is  greatly  inferior  in 
fertility  to  the  secondary  or  recent  portion,  but 
it  is  far  from  being  sterile :  grape  vines  abound 
in  both,  particularly  in  the  calcareous  soil. 

It  may  be  proper  to  pause  for  a  moment  and 
enquire  what  may  be  the  cause  of  the  perpetual 
fire  which  keeps  up  without  change  the  high 
temperature  of  so  many  springs  flowing  from 
this  hill  at  considerable  distances  from  each 
other.  Upon  looking  around  us,  no  data  pre- 
sent themselves  sufficient  for  the  solution  of  the 
problem  ;  nothing  of  a  volcanic  nature  is  to  be 
seen  in  this  country,  neither  have  we  been  able 
to  learn  that  in  any  part  of  the  hills  or  mountains 
connected  with  this  river,  there  is  any  evidence 
in  favor  of  such  a  supposition.  An  immense  bed 
of  blackish  blue  schistus  appears  to  form  the 
basis  of  the  hot-spring  hill  and  of  all  those  in 
its  neighbourhood.  The  bottom  or  bed  of  the 

creek 


[  "34  ] 

i8o4  1  creek  is  composed  of  scarcely  any  thing  else ;  I 
Deccmberj  jj^yg  frequently  taken  up  pieces  of  this  stone, 
rendered  soft  by  decomposition  and  possessing 
a  very  strong  aluminous  taste;  it  seemed  to  re- 
quire nothing  but  lixiviation  and  chrystalisation 
to  complete  the  manufacture  of  alumn.  As  all 
bodies  which  suffer  chemical  changes,  generally 
produce  an  alteration  of  temperature,  it  may  be 
enquired  whether  the  decomposing  schistus  is 
capable  of  generating  a  degree  of  Caloric  corre- 
sponding to  the  temperature  of  the  hot  springs. 
Another  cause  we  shall  notice  which  perhaps 
will  be  thought  more  satisfactory :  it  is  well 
known  that  in  several  positions  within  the  Circle 
of  the  waters  of  this  river,  vast  beds  of  martial 
pyrites  exist ;  they  have  not  yet  been  discovered 
in  the  vicinage  of  the  hot  springs,  but  it  is  ex- 
tremely probable  that  they  may  be  accumulated 
in  immense  strata  under  the  bases  of  those  hills, 
and  as  we  have  noticed  at  one  place  at  least 
some  evidence  of  the  existence  of  bitumen,*  we 
cannot  doubt  that  due  proportions  of  those  prin- 
ciples united,  will  in  the  progress  of  decompo- 
sition by  the  admission  of  air  &  moisture  pro- 
duce the  degrees  of  heat  necessary  to  support 
the  phenomina  of  the  hot  springs.  No  sulphuric 

*  Having  thrust  a  stick  down  into  the  crater  of  one  of  the 
hot  springs  some  distance  up  the  hill,  several  drops  of  petro- 
leum or  naphtha  rose  and  spread  upon  the  surface,  it  ceased 
to  rise  after  three  or  four  attempts. 

acid 


[  '35  ] 

acid  is  present  in  this  water;  the  springs  may  fi8o4 
be  supplied  by  the  vapor  of  heated  water  ascend-  *- 
ing  from  the  Caverns  where  the  heat  is  gener- 
ated ;  or  the  heat  may  be  immediately  applied 
to  the  bottom  of  an  immense  natural  Caldron 
of  rock  contained  in  the  bowels  of  the  hill, 
from  which  as  a  reservoir  the  Springs  may  be 
supplied.  Therm^  at  8!^  p.m.  34°  Extremes  32° 

-45° 

Therm!  34°  Wind  N.W.  Cloudy — The  state  Tuesday  is'^ 
of  the  heavens  did  not  admit  of  any  astronomi- 
cal observations  in  the  morning  ;  it  cleared  away 
before  noon,  so  that  we  had  a  good  meridian 
altitude  of  the  Sun,  which  was  scarcely  over 
when  the  clouds  overspread  again  the  face  of 
heaven,  &  it  rained  a  part  of  the  afternoon :  the 
present  being  Christmas  Day,  we  indulged  the 
men  with  a  holy-day,  for  which  object  they  had 
hoarded  up  their  rations  of  whisky,  to  be  ex- 
pended in  merriment  on  this  occasion,  which 
terminated  with  inebriety  but  no  ill  consequence 
ensued.  We  amused  ourselves  with  farther  ex- 
periments on  the  hot  waters ;  the  conduct  of 
the  analysis  being  left  to  Doctor  Hunter  as  a 
professed  Chemist,  the  results  will  be  hereafter 
given.  Thermom!  at  8!"  p.m.  44°  Extremes  34° 

-51° 

Therm   34°.  Wind  N.W.  clear,  prepare  for  Wednesday  26'!' 

observation 


['36] 

i8o4  1  observation.  Took  the  Sun's  contacts  in  the 
Decemberj  morning  hoping  to  get  equal  altitudes  in  the 
afternoon ;  but  as  this  is  not  always  certain,  I 
make  it  a  rule  to  note  down  the  Sun's  altitude, 
so  that  the  apparent  time  may  be  calculated ; 
and  if  the  corresponding  altitudes  are  taken 
after  noon ;  the  calculation  of  the  correction 
for  change  of  declination  during  the  interval  is 
greatly  facilitated  by  noting  the  altitudes.  Before 
instruments  were  brought  to  their  present  state 
of  perfection,  the  method  hitherto  in  use  was 
to  be  preferred ;  but  no  reason  can  be  assigned 
why  we  should  not  now  adopt  a  mode  equally 
correct,  which  saves  half  the  labor,  and  more 
especially  that  by  using  the  altitudes,  we  do  not 
require  that  the  Latitude  should  be  previously 
known. 

This  afternoon  took  the  Altitude  of  the  hill 
west  of  the  camp  by  measurement  of  a  base 
and  two  correct  angles  of  elevation  with  the 
circle  of  reflection,  and  found  it  to  be  300  feet, 
which  is  less  than  we  had  supposed :  very  steep 
hills  are  extremely  imposing  ;  the  ascent  of  the 
hill  was  not  much  more  than  double  its  perpen- 
dicular height,  i.  e.  about  700  feet  of  inclined 
plane  and  the  angle  at  its  base  made  by  the 
summit  with  the  horizon  above  26°  We  had 
no  favorable  position  to  ascertain  by  the  same 
means  the  height  of  the  hill  of  the  hot  springs, 
but  having  been  on  the  tops  of  both  distinctiv 

seen 


[  ^Z7  ] 

seen  from  each  other,  we  judge  them  to  be  of  ri8o4 
equal  elevation.  \  December 

In  the  morning  between  lo  and  1 1^  made  a 
set  of  Lunar  observations,  by  taking  twelve  dis- 
tances of  the  sun  and  moon's  limbs :  the  moon 
being  advanced  within  less  than  60°  of  the  sun, 
appeared. with  a  very  faint  light  in  presence  of 
the  sun's  image  altho'  darkened  considerably, 
and  it  required  very  particular  attention  to  ob- 
tain fine  contacts,  which  are  supposed  to  be  very 
correct,  altho'  the  eye  remained  greatly  fatigued. 
— The  afternoon  being  cloudy  prevented  taking 
the  correspondent  equal  altitudes  for  the  regu- 
lation of  the  watch.  Therm'  at  8!*  p.m.  44° 
Extremes  34°-50? 

This  morning  being  fine  Doctor  Hunter  pre-  Thursday  27'.^ 
pared  to  make  his  long  meditated  excursion  of 
3  or  4  days  into  the  mountains,  which  the  un- 
favorable state  of  the  weather  has  hitherto  pre- 
vented :  the  thermy  stood  at  26°  before  sun  rise, 
and  the  face  of  the  hill  and  creek  were  shrouded 
in  condensed  vapor.  After  breakfast  the  Doctor 
set  out  with  our  Pilot  and  three  of  the  people ; 
the  rest  were  dispatched  with  loads  of  baggage 
to  the  river.  Took  a  set  of  observations  for  equal 
altitudes,  but  we  were  again  disappointed  in  ob- 
taining the  correspondent  afternoon  observations 
by  the  intervention  of  clouds ;  the  mornings'  alti- 
tudes of  yesterday  and  this  day  will  nevertheless 

be 


[  '38] 

i8o4  \  be  sufficient  for  the  regulation  of  time  by  the 
December  J  ^^tch  and  obtaining  her  rate  of  going.  At  noon 
had  a  very  fine  altitude  of  the  Sun,  which  is 
the  seventh  observation  for  the  Latitude  of  this 
place,  and  concludes  our  astronomical  observa- 
tions here,  from  whence  will  be  deduced  (it  is 
hoped)  with  sufficient  precision  the  Latitude 
and  Longitude  of  this  point  of  Louisiana,  ren- 
dered remarkable  by  the  presence  of  so  great  a 
natural  curiosity  as  the  Hot-springs.  The  mean 
of  the  seven  observations  whose  respective  re- 
sults were  all  very  near  to  each  other  makes  the 
Latitude  of  the  Hot-spring  N°  3  to  be  34°  30' 
59".82.  This  may  be  farther  corrected  by  in- 
troducing the  deviation  in  north  polar  distance, 
occasioned  by  the  nutation  of  the  Earth's  axis ; 
this  being  common  to  the  Sun  and  to  all  the 
Stars  ought  not  to  be  neglected  when  great  pre- 
cision is  required.  The  series  of  observations 
above  mentioned  being  reduced  to  the  21^'  De- 
cember as  the  mean  or  middle  time  of  the 
series ;  it  will  be  found  that  the  Sun's  Right 
ascension  was  then  9  signs  and  the  place  of 
the  moon's  ascending  node  9  signs  27  degrees ; 
from  whence  results  a  correction  in  the  Sun's 
declination  of -4". 34  which  quantity  being  ad- 
ditive to  the  Latitude  deduced,  gives  for  the 
true  Latitude  34°  31'  4".  16.  The  Longitude 
will  be  calculated  at  leisure  &  will  be  hereafter 
noticed. 

After 


[  139  ] 

After  the  Doctor  set  out  I  amused  myself  f  1804 
with  pursuing  experiments  on  the  analysis  of  \  December 
the  hot  waters  &c  —  Thermometer  at  8!*  p.m. 
38°  Extremes  26°-45° 

Therm!  34°  Wind  S.W.  —  Cloudy  —  ap- Friday  28 '!> 
pearance  of  rain  or  snow  —  Dispatched  six  of 
our  people  with  loads  to  the  river  Camp :  after 
breakfast  set  out  upon  a  geographical  tour  round 
the  Hill  of  the  hot-springs ;  young  M^  Hunter 
with  one  of  the  people  and  my  negro  servant 
attended:  in  the  course  of  this  survey  there  was 
no  indication  of  any  hot  spring  but  those  of 
which  we  have  already  spoken,  all  lying  on  the 
same  side  of  the  hill  within  a  space  of  70  perches 
as  has  been  already  noted:  Every  new  inspec- 
tion of  those  Curious  springs  brings  forth  some 
addition  to  the  limited  knowledge  we  have  ac- 
quired of  them ;  we  find  it  now  pretty  evident 
that  most  of  the  springs  if  not  all  have  flowed 
from  a  more  elevated  part  of  the  hill  than  at  pre- 
sent ;  and  the  perpetual  accumulations  of  Calca- 
reous matter  confining  the  sources  have  probably 
elevated  them  to  nearly  the  level  of  the  grand 
recervoir  within  the  bowels  of  the  hill ;  during 
this  process  the  calcareous  rock  has  been  formed 
which  we  now  see  attached  to  the  side  of  the 
hill ;  at  length  however  the  issues  of  the  waters 
have  become  so  obstructed  and  probably  the  level 
of  the  water  in  the  grand  recervoir  so  elevated, 

that 


[  HO  ] 

1804  1  that  by  the  superincumbent  pressure  of  the 
December  J  waters,  new  passages  have  been  forced  in  lower 
situations:  it  is  evident  that  the  springs  which 
now  break  forth  along  the  margin  of  the  Creek, 
cannot  be  supposed  to  have  flowed  for  a  long 
time  (comparatively)  in  their  present  situation ; 
the  formation  of  calcareous  rock  created  by  the 
springs  in  their  actual  position,  resembling  only 
small  excrescences  growing  from  the  base  of 
considerable  precipices,  is  a  proof  of  what  we 
have  advanced :  some  of  those  new  springs  have 
formed  small  flats  of  20  to  30  feet  extent;  in 
general  they  have  formed  little  elevations  of  5 
to  6  feet  perpendicular,  with  a  glacis  of  10  or 
1 5  feet  terminated  by  a  precipitate  fall  into  the 
creek.  Those  small  accumulations  when  com- 
pared with  the  great  mass  of  rock  spreading 
along  the  face  of  the  hill  to  the  perpendicular 
height  of  one  hundred  feet,  are  certainly  a  de- 
monstrative proof  of  the  recent  existence  of  the 
inferior  springs :  an  ingenious  observer  of  Na- 
ture, by  some  years  attention  might  determine 
the  quantity  of  calcareous  matter  precipitated 
in  a  given  time  from  some  one  spring,  which 
would  furnish  us  with  a  datum,  from  whence  to 
form  a  proximate  calculation  of  the  antiquity 
of  the  Springs.  We  have  already  noticed  that 
some  springs  still  exist  even  at  the  very  limit 
which  separates  the  calcareous  region  from  the 
primitive  hill ;   their  temperature  is  similar  to 

those 


[   HI   ] 

those  below,  they  are  all  feeble  and  are  soon  lost  f  1804 
upon  the  face  of  the  hill,  &  perhaps  contribute  "^    ^""^  ^^ 
to  augment  the  inferior  springs. 

We  found  the  circuit  of  this  hill  to  be  about 
3  y^  miles,  measuring  round  its  base  as  correctly 
as  the  uneven  surface  would  permit :  altho'  this 
hill  when  seen  from  the  hill  to  the  west  of  the 
valley  appears  to  represent  a  handsome  conical 
monticule  in  an  insulated  situation,  yet  our  geo- 
graphical survey  discovered  to  us  that  it  is  con- 
nected in  the  rear  by  a  very  narrow  ridge,  with 
a  chain  of  inferior  hills  dividing  the  Creek  of 
the  hot-springs  from  a  branch  of  the  Calfat. 
We  find  invariably  the  upper  half  of  the  hills  to 
be  filled  up  with  the  hardest  flinty  rocks,  with 
an  admixture  of  the  hardest  freestone;  much  of 
both  particularly  the  first  have  rolled  down  & 
are  found  all  the  way  to  the  base:  At  the  foot 
of  those  hills  &  at  some  elevation  are  found  im- 
mense strata  of  schistus,  some  of  a  yellowish 
color,  which  forms  by  decomposition  an  earth 
of  the  same  color,  presenting  at  first  view  the 
appearance  of  clay,  but  it  is  greatly  deficient  in 
tenacity:  The  base  of  the  hills  and  the  vallies 
contiguous  to  the  hot-spring  hill  seem  chiefly 
occupied  by  a  bluish  black  Schistus,  altho'  there 
be  veins  of  the  siliceous  genus  crossing  this  last 
in  several  places :  there  is  no  doubt  that  a  manu- 
facture of  Alumn  might  be  established  here  upon 
an   immense  scale;   the  schistus  under  foot   is 

frequently 


[    H2  ] 

i8o4        1  frequently  found  in  a  state  ready  to  yield  alumn, 
December  j  ^g  appears  from  the  astringent  and  sweet  taste  it 
possesses. 

After  our  return  to  Camp,  I  determined  to 
have  another  microscopic  examination  of  the 
green  matter  and  hot  water  before  leaving  finally 
this  place.  I  procured  some  of  the  green  mat- 
ter of  a  very  beautiful  kind,  resembling  a  moss 
whose  fibres  were  more  than  half  an  inch  in 
length;  a  film  of  the  same  green  matter  was 
spread  upon  a  calcareous  base,  &  from  the  film 
sprung  the  fibres  representing  a  beautiful  vege- 
tation completely  immersed  in  water  of  130° 
temperature  ;  This  moss  (if  it  shall  be  found  to 
be  vegetable)  was  brought  to  this  state  of  per- 
fection by  growing  in  a  small  natural  bason  con- 
taining some  depth  of  water  in  a  state  of  com- 
parative repose,  communicating  freely  with  one 
of  the  springs,  but  no  current  passed  thro'  it. 

This  moss  sparkled  before  the  microscope 
with  innumerable  nodules  of  lime,  some  part  of 
which  seemed  to  be  beautifully  chrystalized,  and 
altho'  the  fine  green  color  of  the  moss  was  visi- 
ble thro'  the  lime,  yet  it  was  thereby  so  much 
concealed,  that  it  was  impossible  to  decide 
whether  it  possessed  the  true  organic  structure 
of  a  vegetable;  I  incline  however  now  to  believe 
that  the  green  matter  is  a  true  vegetable,  not 
only  from  its  great  resemblance  to  some  of  the 
mosses  particularly  the  Byssi,  but  also  from  the 

discovery 


[  H3  ] 

discovery  I  have  just  made  that  this  moss  is  the  [1804 
residence  of  animal  life:  after  frequent  search  1  December 
I  at  length  discovered  a  very  minute  shell-fish 
of  the  bi-valve  kind  inhabiting  this  moss ;  its 
shape  is  nearly  that  of  the  fresh  vv^ater  muscle ; 
the  color  of  the  shell  is  greyish  brown  with 
certain  spots  of  a  slight  purplish  appearance  ; 
when  the  animal  is  undisturbed  it  opens  its  shell 
&  thrusts  out  four  legs  very  transparent,  and 
articulated  like  those  of  a  quadruped ;  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  forelegs  are  very  slender  &  sharp, 
but  those  of  the  hind  legs  somewhat  broader  as 
if  armed  with  minute  toes ;  from  the  extremity 
of  each  shell,  issues  3  or  4  forked  hairs,  which 
the  animal  seems  to  have  the  power  of  moving; 
the  forelegs  seem  formed  for  making  incisions 
into  the  moss  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  ac- 
cess to  the  juices  of  the  living  plant,  upon  which 
no  doubt  it  feeds,  and  I  think  it  highly  probable 
that  the  animal  is  provided  with  a  proboscis, 
tho'  I  was  unable  to  discover  it;  the  hind  legs 
seem  well  adapted  for  propelling  the  animal  in 
its  progress  over  the  moss  or  thro'  the  water. 

A  considerable  quantity  of  snow  fell  while  we 
were  engaged  on  the  survey  and  after  our  return. 
Thermometer  at  8^  p.m.  30°  Extremes  30°— 34° 
—  at  3^  p.m.  32? 

Therms  25°    Wind  at  N.W.  strong  all  night,  Saturday  29? 
some  flying  clouds  appear  in  the  morning.  —  Got 

the 


[   H4  ] 

i8o4  1  the  people  ready  with  their  loads  between  9  & 
December  J  j  ^h  ^  j^^  ^^d  I  set  out  with  them  myself  for  the 
river  camp  ;  it  began  to  snow  at  10  o'clock,  but 
did  not  continue  ;  the  weather  continued  cloudy, 
but  the  exercize  of  walking  rendered  the  tem- 
perature (tho'  cold)  very  agreeable ;  the  low 
grounds  thro'  which  we  passed  were  a  little 
watery,  in  consequence  of  the  rains  which  had 
fallen,  but  not  more  so,  than  when  we  first 
walked  out  to  the  hot  springs  ;  the  soil  of  the 
flat  lands  under  the  stratum  of  vegetable  mould 
was  chiefly  yellowish  and  was  evidently  decom- 
posed schistus,  of  which  there  were  immense 
beds  in  every  stage  of  its  progress  from  the  hard 
stone  recently  uncovered,  partially  decomposed 
and  down  to  the  yellowish  earth  apparently  ho- 
mogenious.  The  covering  of  vegetable  mould 
between  the  hills  and  the  river  is  in  most  places 
sufficiently  thick  to  constitute  a  good  soil,  being 
from  4  to  6  inches,  and  it  is  the  opinion  of  the 
people  upon  the  Washita  that  wheat  would  grow 
here  to  great  perfection.  Altho'  the  higher  hills 
(300  to  600  feet)  are  very  rocky,  yet  the  inferior 
hills  and  sloping  bases  of  the  first  are  generally 
clothed  with  a  soil  of  a  middling  quality,  the 
natural  productions  are  sufficiently  luxuriant, 
consisting  chiefly  of  black  and  red  oak  inter- 
mixed with  a  variety  of  other  woods  and  a  con- 
siderable undergrowth  ;  and  even  on  those  rocky 
hills,  Nature   has   bestowed  a  soil  which  will 

reward 


(  H5] 

reward  the  future  labors  of  the  industrious  Vi-  ri8o4 
gneron  :  Nature  herself  unaided  by  man  has  al-  t  December 
ready  planted  on  them  three  or  four  species  of 
Vines,  which  are  said  to  produce  annually  an 
exuberance  of  excellent  grapes.  A  great  variety 
of  plants,  some  of  which  in  their  season,  I  am 
informed  produce  flowers  highly  ornamental, 
would  probably  reward  the  researches  of  the 
Botanist. 

On  the  way  into  the  river  I  took  the  courses 
by  compass  and  the  distances  by  time  ;  when  the 
Doctor  comes  with  the  last  party  I  have  ap- 
pointed two  good  hands  to  chain  the  same  dis- 
tances, to  be  noted  down  by  young  M.\  Hunter 
—  At  8^  p.m.  the  therm!  was  down  at  24° — the 
wind  blew  strong  all  the  afternoon,  but  fell  calm 
by  night. 

I  omitted  to  observe  in  its  proper  place  that 
having  observed  from  the  bottom  of  one  of  the 
hot  springs  a  frequent  ebulition  of  gas,  we  should 
have  collected  some  for  examination,  but  no  ap- 
paratus was  provided  for  the  purpose,  it  was  so 
unfortunate  that  we  had  not  even  a  funnel  at  the 
Springs,  which  with  a  bottle  might  have  suf- 
ficed :  it  was  not  hydrogen,  because  I  failed  in 
several  attempts  to  inflame  it  by  a  lighted  torch  : 
there  can  be  no  doubt  of  its  being  Carbonic  acid, 
having  always  found  indications  of  an  excess  of 
a  weak  acid,  by  which  the  lime  and  iron  were 
disolved  in  the  water.  With  respect  to  the  quan- 
tity 


[  146  ] 

i8o4  1  tity  of  hot  water  delivered  by  the  springs  I  made 
Decemberj  ^j^g  following  rough  estimate.  —  There  are  four 
principal  springs,  two  of  inferior  note,  one  ris- 
ing out  of  the  gravel  and  a  number  of  drippings 
and  drainings  all  issuing  from  the  margin  or 
from  under  the  rock  which  overhangs  the  creek. 
Of  the  four  first  mentioned,  three  deliver  nearly 
equal  quantities,  but  one  (N?  i )  the  most  con- 
siderable of  all  and  the  hottest  delivers  about 
five  times  as  much  as  one  of  the  other  three, 
the  2  of  inferior  note  may  be  equal  to  one,  and 
all  the  drippings  &  small  springs  are  probably 
underrated  at  double  the  quantity  of  one  of  the 
three;  that  is,  taking  all  together,  the  whole  will 
amount  to  a  quantity  equal  to  eleven  times  the 
water  delivered  by  the  standard  spring,  which 
was  the  only  one  commodiously  situated  for  mea- 
surement ;  I  neglect  the  springs  up  the  hill,  be- 
cause it  is  probable  that  what  is  not  evaporated 
unites  with  the  springs  below.  We  found  a  Kettle 
containing  eleven  quarts  was  filled  by  the  stand- 
ard Spring  in  eleven  seconds ;  Hence  the  whole 
quantity  of  hot  water  delivered  by  all  the  springs 
issuing  visibly  from  the  base  of  the  hill  may 
amount  in  one  minute  to  165  gallons  and  in  24 
hours  to  3771 3^  Hhds  of  63  gallons  each,  which 
is  equal  to  a  handsome  brook  and  might  work 
an  over-shot  mill.  In  cool  weather  condensed 
vapor  is  seen  arising  out  of  the  gravel  bed  of  the 
Creek  from  springs  which  cannot  be  taken  into 

the 


[  H7] 

the  account;  during  summer  and  fall  I  am  in-  ri8o4 
formed  the  Creek  receives  little  or  no  water,  but  I  December 
what  is  supplied  by  the  hot-springs,  at  those  sea- 
sons probably  many  small  springs  may  be  seen 
rising  out  of  the  bed  of  the  Creek,  which  are 
now  invisible ;  during  that  time  the  Creek  itself 
is  a  hot  bath,  too  hot  indeed  near  the  springs, 
so  that  a  person  may  chuse  the  temperature  most 
agreeable  to  himself,  by  selecting  a  natural  bason 
nearer  to  or  farther  from  the  principal  springs; 
at  3  or  4  miles  below  the  springs,  the  water  is 
tepid  and  unpleasant  to  drink. 

Thermf  in  air  9°  in  river  water  36°  —  wind  Sunday  30'.^ 
very  light  at  N.W.  This  morning  &  the  night 
past  are  the  coldest  we  have  experienced  this 
winter.  The  People  set  off  very  early  to  bring 
in  Doctor  Hunter's  baggage  from  the  springs. 
Employed  myself  in  bringing  up  my  journals 
&c  —  The  Doctor  arrived  with  the  people  about 
3!*  p.m.  —  The  Sky  was  most  serenely  clear  this 
day,  its  color  over  head  was  that  of  the  darkest 
Prussian  blue  and  during  last  night  the  stars 
shone  with  uncommon  lusture.  People  have 
conceived  an  idea  that  they  see  more  stars  here 
and  at  the  hot  springs  than  any  where  else ; 
which  idea  arises  from  the  extreme  transpar- 
ency of  the  atmosphere,  which  causes  the  stars 
to  strike  the  eye  with  greater  brightness,  and  no 
doubt  stars  of  inferior  magnitude  will  be  seen  in  a 

pure 


[  h8  ] 

1804        1  pure  sky  which  are  invisible  in  an  ordinary  one. 

December  j  TJ^ig  evening  some  light  clouds  appeared  about 
the  sun-setting,  which  is  an  indication  of  change 
of  weather ;  we  now  anxiously  expect  rain,  as 
we  wait  only  for  the  first  rise  of  the  river  to  go 
down  with  safety  over  the  falls  and  rapids ;  5  or 
6  feet  perpendicular  will  be  sufficient.  At  night 
the  atmosphere  became  again  extremely  bright 
—  at  8^  p.m.  the  therms  was  at  21°  Extremes 
9°-38°  —  It  became  very  cold  at  lo!"  p.m. 

Monday  31'.'  Therm'  in  air  29°  in  river  water  36° — Wind 
S.E.  During  the  night  the  Weather  altered 
greatly ;  the  temperature  was  much  molified 
and  the  stars  disappeared ;  in  the  morning  one 
general  cloud  enclosed  the  horizon,  and  from 
the  damp  penetrating  chilliness  of  the  morning 
we  look  for  snow :  ordered  setting  poles  to  be 
made  &  every  thing  to  be  prepared  for  the  first 
favorable  moment  to  depart.  The  day  continued 
cloudy,  &  in  the  afternoon  the  therm!  having 
risen  to  32°  it  began  to  snow  and  continued  all 
day  and  part  of  the  night :  Examined  some  of 
the  green  moss  from  the  hot-springs,  with  a 
view  to  shew  Doctor  Hunter  one  of  the  Bivalved 
testaceous  animals,  found  a  large  one  which  un- 
der the  microscope  measured  V^o  of  an  inch  in 

length  by  the  micrometer. 

1805  1        ^        ^ 

January         > 

Tuesday  i'.'  J       This  morning  the  thermometer  was  at  26°  — 

It 


[  '49  ] 

It  had  ceased  snowing  in  the  night  but  recom-  /1805 
menced  after  day  light ;  the  snow  was  sounded  IJ^""^'7 
and  found  in  most  places  to  be  from  11  to  13 
inches  ;  we  are  in  hopes  that  the  melting  of  this 
snow  united  to  the  rain  which  will  probably 
accompany  the  thaw,  will  be  sufficient  to  take 
us  down  in  safety ;  being  desireous  however  of 
ascertaining  what  aid  we  had  to  expect  from 
the  snow,  I  made  the  following  experiment  — 
I  took  a  Cylindric  Kettle  i  o  inches  deep  &  hav- 
ing by  sounding  found  a  flat  piece  of  snow  of 
the  same  depth,  I  pressed  down  the  Kettle  bot- 
tom upwards  perpendicularly  to  the  ground ;  I 
was  thus  enabled  to  return  the  Kettle  completely 
filled  with  its  column  of  snow,  and  having 
thawed  it  gradually  to  the  temperature  of  33° 
I  found  the  water  to  measure  exactly  1.07 
inches,  that  is,  9.346  inches  of  snow  will  yield 
one  inch  of  water  in  the  circumstances  above 
mentioned ;  it  is  observable  that  the  snow  fell 
lightly  without  wind,  it  is  therefore  probable 
that  the  proportion  of  ten  to  one  may  be  adopted 
as  a  general  standard  to  be  varied  according  to 
circumstances.  The  snow  continued  frozen  all 
day,  and  the  therm!!  at  3!*  p.m.  did  not  fall  below 
the  freezing  point  and  in  the  evening  at  8^  p.m. 
it  was  fallen  to  18° 

Thermometer  in  air  6°  in  river  water   3  2°  Wednesday  2^. 
Calm  —  The    night    proved    extremely   cold  ; 

large 


[  JS°] 

1805  \  large  fires  with  all  the  covering  that  could  be 
January]  conveniently  used  were  necessary  to  render  our 
situation  comfortable  in  a  bad  tent  negligently 
chosen  at  New  Orleans.  The  sun  arose  bright 
and  shone  with  splendor  upon  the  surface  of 
the  snow  which  covered  every  object  upon  the 
ground ;  the  river  alone  presented  a  bleak  ap- 
pearance with  a  condensed  vapor  floating  upon 
its  surface  ;  the  temperature  of  the  river  was  at 
the  freezing  point ;  a  kettle  of  water  being 
brought  up  to  Camp  and  placed  on  the  ground 
four  feet  from  a  large  fire,  its  surface  began  im- 
mediately to  shoot  into  icy  chrystalizations.  — 
Our  hunters  are  tolerably  successful,  bringing  in 
every  day  abundance  of  Venison  and  Turkies. — 
The  day  became  pleasant  and  agreeable,  the 
temperature  at  3^  p.m.  being  45°  and  at  8!"  p.m. 
the  thermometer  fell  to  32° 

Thursday  3'!  Thermometer  in  air  22°  in  river  water  34°  — 
wind  moderate  at  N.W.  The  atmosphere  be- 
came cloudy  in  the  night  and  we  looked  confi- 
dently for  a  change  of  weather,  but  this  morning 
it  has  become  serene  and  fine ;  the  vicissitudes 
of  the  weather  have  of  late  been  frequent,  a 
change  is  now  extremely  desireable  but  the  sea- 
son seems  obstinately  bent  against  all  change. 
The  day  became  pleasant  and  of  an  agreeable 
temperature,  the  thermometer  at  3^  p.m.  being 
at  48°  and  at  8^  in  the  evening  30° 

Thermometer 


[  "51  ] 

Thermometer  in  air  22°  in  river  water  36° —  fiSos 
Calm  —  during  the  night  it  became  cloudy,  not  |  ^  "J^^'^  ,h 
a  star  was  to  be  seen  but  before  morning  it 
cleared  away  &  became  perfectly  serene  and 
cloudless.  The  day  proved  fine,  the  sky  over 
head  of  a  bright  but  deep  prusian  blue,  the  tem- 
perature mild,  the  thermometer  at  3^  p.m.  be- 
ing up  to  50°  In  the  afternoon  the  Doctor  made 
an  excursion  upon  the  river  to  examine  some 
of  the  neighbouring  hills :  I  continued  to  bring 
up  and  arrange  my  Journals.  The  evening  was 
fine,  the  thermometer  at  8^  p.m.  was  at  32°  — 
no  favorable  appearance  yet  of  rain  to  raise  the 
river ;  the  snow  is  disappearing  without  produ- 
cing any  beneficial  eff^ect :  we  continue  here  as 
prisoners,  waiting  for  what  is  usually  called  bad 
weather,  to  bear  us  away  from  this  place. 

Thermometer  in  air  22°  in  river  water  36?  Saturday  5*> 
Wind  N.W.  The  atmosphere  became  cloudy  in 
the  night,  but  was  perfectly  serene  and  clear  at 
day-break,  so  that  we  have  no  near  prospect  of 
our  departure.  The  day  became  fine  and  seemed 
to  invite  us  to  recommence  astronomical  obser- 
vations, and  altho'  a  sufficient  series  had  been 
made  both  for  Latitude  and  longitude  at  the 
hot-springs  connected  by  survey  with  this  place, 
yet  we  began  a  new  series.  Equal  altitudes  of 
the  sun  were  taken  before  and  after  noon ; 
three   distances  of  the  moon  and  sun's  limbs 

were 


[  152] 

i8o5  1  were  taken  near  2^  p.m.  and  in  the  evening 
January]  thj-ge  distances  of  the  moon's  west  limb  from 
Aldebaran  were  taken  between  6  &  7^  p.m.  — 
a  greater  number  would  have  been  taken,  but 
in  the  first  case  the  Sun  got  behind  some  trees 
and  in  the  second  case,  the  moon  was  in  a  simi- 
lar situation,  if  tomorrow  proves  fine  we  shall 
prosecute  the  same  operations  to  more  advan- 
tage, having  ordered  several  trees  to  be  cut  down 
which  stood  in  the  way  —  Wind  S.E. 

The  day  continued  fine  and  of  a  mild  tem- 
'perature;  some  few  clouds  keep  up  our  hopes 
of  a  change  —  Thermometer  at  8^  p.m.  28° — 
Extremes  2  2°-55° 

Sunday  6\''  Thermometer  before  sun-rise  in  air  2  8°  in  river 
water  38?  This  morning  proved  cloudy  contrary 
to  expectation  and  revived  our  hopes  of  a  change 
of  weather  favorable  to  our  descent :  This  state 
of  the  atmosphere  continued  all  day  ;  from  time 
to  time  there  was  a  little  light  rain  or  mist. 
The  rain  increased  a  little  after  dark,- but  still 
very  light :  the  snow  seems  now  melted  away  to 
about  one  fifth  or  sixth  of  the  original  quantity ; 
we  began  to  apprehend  that  the  whole  would 
disappear  without  any  influence  upon  the  river, 
but  now  it  has  risen  about  1 2  inches:  Thermom- 
eter at  8*?  p.m.  44°  Extremes  28^-50° 

Monday  7*>      Thermometer  in  air  64°  in  river  water  44° 

Last 


[  JS3] 

Last  night  it  rained  very  lightly  by  intervals,  so  fiSos 
little  indeed  that  a  cylindric  vessel  placed  to  re-  [January 
ceive  it,  did  not  contain  enough  to  be  measured. 
During  the  night  the  temperature  was  extremely 
w^arm,  and  the  weather  continues  to  be  cloudy, 
but  not  very  dark,  so  that  our  prospect  of  rain 
is  not  very  flattering  ;  the  river  has  nevertheless 
risen  1 8  inches  since  last  night,  which  has  no 
doubt  been  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snows. 
The  sun  shews  himself  at  intervals  between  the 
clouds :  it  became  so  warm  that  we  dined  abroad 
under  the  shade  of  lofty  pine  and  oak  trees,  upon 
the  wild  game  of  the  forest  and  the  river,  such 
as  Venison,  wild  Turkey,  bear.  Cygnet  &c :  The 
thermometer  at  the  hour  of  dinner  was  at  y^° 
which  at  this  season  produces  the  sensation  of 
a  summer's  sun  of  90°;  the  river  continues  to 
rise,  and  we  have  taken  the  resolution  to  wait 
the  issue  of  the  present  state  of  the  weather  and 
to  set  out  at  all  events ;  if  there  be  not  water 
enough  to  go  over  the  falls  with  safety  by  the 
oar,  we  shall  pass  along  by  letting  ourselves  down 
by  the  help  of  a  rope,  step  by  step,  until  the 
danger  is  passed.  Thermometer  at  8!"  p.m.  38° 
Extremes  38^-78°  In  the  evening  the  river  con- 
tinues to  rise. 

Thermometer  in  air  28?  in  river  water  46°  Tuesday  8'> 
Last  night  was  cloudy,  moist  and  cold,  the  river 
rose  considerably  in  the  night ;  we  suppose  it  to 

be 


[  154] 

i8o5  1  be  about  6  feet  perpendicular,  higher  than  the 
January  J  jgyel  of  the  river  when  we  came  up,  we  now 
think  ourselves  secure  of  going  down  with  speed 
and  safety;  orders  were  therefore  given  to  em- 
bark our  baggage  and  prepare  for  departing.  We 
had  the  satisfaction  of  taking  with  us  an  abun- 
dance of  fresh  provision  chiefly  venison,  to  supply 
us  to  the  Post  of  the  Washita.  We  accordingly 
set  off  between  9  &  lo  o'clock  and  landed  a 
little  below  upon  the  opposite  shore  and  went 
to  examine  the  first  rapids,  which  we  found  to 
be  very  safe ;  we  re-embarked,  and  by  directing 
our  course  between  the  breakers,  passed  along 
with  the  rapidity  of  an  arrow  in  perfect  secur- 
ity :  we  continued  moving  with  great  rapidity 
on  the  face  of  the  current,  but  thought  it  pru- 
dent to  land  and  view  a  second  rapid,  and  after 
exploring  the  best  passage  we  passed  down  in 
perfect  safety. 

We  got  over  the  great  *  Chutes '  about  i 
o'clock,  two  of  our  oars  having  been  violently 
dashed  overboard  by  the  willows,  the  Pilot 
thinking  it  safest  to  keep  the  eastern  shore  on 
board ;  we  halted  below  and  regained  our  oars 
by  sending  up  the  Canoe.  There  we  dined  and 
went  on  &  stopped  a  little  below  to  examine 
the  flinty  promontory  already  noticed  on  the  3*^ 
December.  We  took  some  specimens  of  the  rock 
resembling  the  Turkey  oil-stone :  it  appears  to 
me  to  be  too  hard ;  I  remarked  that  the  strata 

of 


[  '55] 

of  this  chain  ran  perpendicularly  nearly  East  and  [1805 
West,  crossed  by  fissures  at  right  angles  5,  6  to  [January 
8  feet  apart;  the  laminae  were  from  ^  to  4  or 
5  inches  thick.  About  a  league  below  on  the 
same  side,  landed  at  Whetstone  hill  and  took 
several  specimens;  this  projecting  hill  consists 
of  a  mass  of  greyish  blue  schistus  of  consider- 
able hardness  and  about  20  feet  perpendicular; 
near  the  top,  it  was  in  a  state  of  progression 
towards  decomposition,  being  there  extremely 
crumbly  and  part  of  it  changing  into  a  dirty 
yellowish  color :  the  laminae  were  in  general 
perpendicular,  but  not  regularly  so,  and  from 
^  to  2  inches  in  thickness,  but  did  not  split 
asunder  with  an  even  surface:  went  on  and  en- 
camped about  ten  leagues  below  Ellis'  Camp. 
Thermometer  at  S^  p.m.  37?  Extremes  28°— 37° 
It  rained  lightly  after  we  encamped,  which  ren- 
dered the  flat  ground  of  our  encampment  very 
wet  and  the  wood  difficult  to  burn. 

Thermometer  in  air  42°,  in  river  water  44°  Wednesday  9^? 
—  The  river  fallen  about  six  inches  —  During 
the  night  it  rained  by  intervals,  but  very  lightly, 
the  air  was  moist  and  cold,  the  soil  here  imme- 
diately under  the  vegetable  stratum  is  yellow- 
ish and  of  little  consistency,  resembling  greatly 
the  understratum  observed  near  the  hot  springs, 
produced  probably  by  the  same  cause,  the  de- 
composition of  schistus.   Last  evening  ordered 

provisions 


[  JS6] 

1805  ^  provisions  to  be  dressed  for  the  day,  to  save  the 
January  J  ^jj^e  of  landing  during  the  day  for  that  purpose; 
about  two  miles  below  our  Camp  landed  to  ex- 
amine some  freestone  and  blue  slate  in  sight  of 
*  Bayou  de  la  Prairie  de  Champignole '  men- 
tioned the  2^  Dec'  The  freestone  of  which  we 
took  specimens,  seems  proper  for  grindstones, 
scythe-stones  &c;  but  the  blue  slate  as  it  is 
called  is  only  bluish  schistus,  hard  &  brittle ; 
and  not  proper  for  the  roofing  of  houses ;  we 
have  not  seen  slate  good  for  that  purpose  except 
some  discovered  on  one  of  the  Doctor's  excur- 
sions on  the  Bayou  Calfat.  Much  game  on  the 
river,  such  as  Geese,  ducks,  swans  &c  ;  they  con- 
tinue equally  wild  and  difficult  of  approach  as 
before,  so  that  we  derive  little  benefit  from  that 
source. 

The  day  continued  dark,  cloudy  &  cold  with 
the  wind  at  North ;  at  11^  a.m.  it  began  to  snow 
and  hail  with  rain  by  intervals :  we  observed  no- 
thing this  day  meriting  remark,  different  from 
what  we  saw  on  our  way  up.  Towards  evening 
it  began  to  clear  away ;  and  soon  after  we  en- 
camped the  sky  became  serene.  By  the  Pilot's 
estimation  we  made  this  day  nineteen  leagues, 
which  probably  do  not  exceed  forty  miles:  we 
passed  five  of  our  night  encampments  on  the  way 
up.  Encamped  a  league  above  *  Cache  a  Ma9on' 
— slept  a  little  higher  on  the  27^!"  Novem!  Ther- 
mometer at   8^  p.m.  24°,   Extremes  2\°-\i°.  at 

3' 


I  ^57] 

2^  p.m.  36°  The  moon  and  stars  shone  with  f  1805 
uncommon  lusture.  1^  January 

Thermometer  in  air  23°,  in  river  water  42° —  Thursday  io'> 
river  fallen  7  inches.  The  face  of  the  heavens 
changed  much  in  the  night,  it  became  extremely 
dark  and  cloudy,  and  this  morning  with  the  wind 
at  north;  it  is  cold,  damp  and  penetrating;  the 
river  fallen  seven  inches  during  the  night.  After 
setting  out,  the  clouds  began  to  dissipate  &  the 
sun  to  shew  himself,  a  very  agreeable  sight  to 
travellers  in  cold  &  unpleasant  weather ;  it  con- 
tinued never-the-less  cold  all  day,  the  sun  not 
possessing  power  to  soften  the  rigorous  cold 
which  prevailed,  the  thermometer  not  rising 
above  the  freezing  point  from  morning  ujntil 
night.  We  made  this  day  by  the  Pilots  account 
fourteen  leagues  and  encamped  at  *auges  d'Ar- 
clon'  (Arclon's  troughs)  three  leagues  below  the 
little  misouri ;  slept  near  this  place  on  the  23*^ 
november :  it  appears  by  reference  to  the  Jour- 
nal, that  we  were  thirteen  days  in  going  up  from 
this  place  to  Ellis'  Camp,  which  has  required 
but  three  broken  days  to  come  down,  having 
made  several  stops  to  examine  certain  objects 
on  our  way  down,  and  to  day  we  made  a  more 
considerable  delay  at  the  Camp  of  a  M.  Le 
Fevre.  This  was  an  intelligent  man,  a  native 
of  the  Illinois,  now  residing  at  the  Arcansas; 
he  is  come  here  with  some  Delaware  and  other 

Indians 


[  >S8  ] 

1805  1  Indians  whom  he  has  fitted  out  with  goods,  and 
January  J  receives  peltry,  fur  &c  at  a  stipulated  price,  as  it 
is  brought  in  by  the  hunters.  This  gentleman 
informs  us  that  a  considerable  party  of  the  Osages 
from  the  Arcansa  river  have  made  an  excursion 
round  by  the  prairies  towards  the  red  river,  and 
down  the  little  misouri  as  low  as  the  *  fourche 
d*Antoine',  and  there  meeting  with  a  small  party 
of  Cherokees,  are  supposed  to  have  killed  four 
of  their  number  &  others  are  missing ;  Three 
Americans  and  ten  Chicasaws  went  a  hunting 
into  that  quarter,  who  may  also  have  been  in 
danger,  those  Ozages  being  no  respecters  of  per- 
sons. M.  Le  Fevre  possesses  considerable  know- 
ledge of  the  interior  of  the  Country ;  he  con- 
firms the  accounts  we  have  already  obtained 
that  the  hills  or  mountains  which  give  birth  to 
the  various  sources  of  this  little  river  are  in  a 
manner  insulated  ;  that  is,  they  are  entirely  shut 
in  and  enclosed  by  the  immense  planes  or  prai- 
ries which  extend  beyond  the  red  river  to  the 
South  &  beyond  the  Missouri  (or  at  least  some 
of  its  branches)  to  the  north  and  range  along 
the  eastern  base  of  the  great  chain  or  dividing 
ridge,  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  the 
sand  hills,  which  separate  the  waters  of  the  Mis- 
sisippi  from  those  which  fall  into  the  western 
pacific  ocean :  The  breadth  of  this  great  plane 
is  not  well  ascertained,  it  is  said  by  some  to  be 
at  certain  parts  or  in  certain  directions  not  less 

than 


[  '59  ] 

than  two  hundred  leagues,  but  I  believe  it  is  fiSos 
agreed  by  all  that  have  a  knowledge  of  the  U^'^*^^'7 
Western  Country,  that  the  mean  breadth  is  at 
least  two  thirds  of  this  quantity ;  a  branch  of 
the  Misouri  called  the  river  platte  or  shallow 
river  is  said  to  take  its  rise  so  far  south,  as  to 
derive  its  first  waters  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  sources  of  the  Red  and  Arcansa  rivers. 
By  the  expression  planes  or  prairies  in  this  place 
is  not  to  be  understood  a  dead  flat  resembling 
certain  savannahs,  whose  soil  is  stiff  and  impene- 
trable, often  under  water  &  bearing  only  a  coarse 
gras§  resembling  reeds ;  very  far  different  are  the 
western  Prairies,  which  expression  signifys  only 
a  country  without  timber :  Those  Prairies  are 
neither  flat  nor  hilly,  but  undulating  into  gently 
swelling  lawns  and  expanding  into  spacious  val- 
lies  in  the  center  of  which  is  always  found  a 
little  timber  growing  upon  the  banks  of  brooks 
and  rivulets  of  the  finest  water,  the  whole  of 
those  prairies  is  represented  to  be  composed  of 
the  richest  and  most  fertile  soil ;  the  most  luxu- 
riant &  succulent  herbage  covers  the  surface  of 
the  Earth  interspersed  with  millions  of  flowers 
and  flowering  shrubs  of  the  most  ornamental 
and  adorning  kinds  :  Those  who  have  viewed 
only  a  skirt  of  those  prairies,  speak  of  them  with 
a  degree  of  enthusiasm  as  if  it  was  only  there 
that  Nature  was  to  be  found  in  a  state  truely 
perfect;  they  declare  that  the  fertility  and  beauty 

of 


[  «6o] 

1805  1  of  the  rising  grounds,  the  extreme  richness  of 
January]  ^y^^  Vallies,  the  coolness  and  excellent  quality 
of  the  waters  found  in  every  valley,  the  Salu- 
brity of  the  atmosphere  and  above  all  the  gran- 
deur and  Majesty  of  the  enchanting  landscape 
which  this  Country  presents,  inspires  the  Soul 
with  sensations  not  to  be  felt  in  any  other  region 
of  the  Globe.  This  Paradise  is  now  very  thinly 
inhabited  by  a  few  tribes  of  savages  and  by  im- 
mense herds  of  Wild  Cattle  (Bison)  which  peo- 
ple those  countries ;  the  Cattle  perform  regular 
migrations  according  to  the  seasons,  from  south 
to  north,  and  from  the  planes  to  the  mountains ; 
and  in  due  time  taught  by  their  instincts  take 
a  retrograde  direction  :  those  tribes  move  in  the 
rear  of  y?  Herds  and  pick  up  stragglers  &  such  as 
lag  behind,  which  they  kill  with  the  bow  and 
arrow  for  their  subsistence ;  should  it  be  found 
that  of  this  rich  and  desireable  Country  there  is 
500  miles  square,  and  from  report,  there  is  prob- 
ably much  more,  the  whole  of  it  being  cultiva- 
ble, it  will  admit  of  the  fullest  population,  and 
will  at  a  future  day  vie  with  the  best  cultivated 
&  most  populous  countries  on  the  Globe  :  in 
this  particular  the  province  of  Holland  exceeds 
perhaps  all  others ;  there,  one  million  of  acres 
support  two  millions  of  Inhabitants;  but  as  Mar- 
itime Countries  enjoy  superior  advantages  re- 
specting population,  by  the  interchange  of  their 
manufactures  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  which 

last 


[   '61  ] 

last  in  an  inland  country  must  be  totally  drawn  fiSos 
from  the  product  of  the  proper  soil,  we  shall  \January 
suppose  this  new  Country  to  be  populated  in  the 
proportion  of  one  tenth  only  of  that  of  Holland, 
in  which  case  it  will  be  capable  of  subsisting 
a  nation  composed  of  twenty  six  millions  of 
Souls.  This  Country  is  not  exposed  to  be  rav- 
aged by  those  sudden  and  impetuous  deluges  of 
rain  which  in  most  hot  countries  and  even  in 
the  Missisippi  Territory,  do  sometimes  tear  up 
&  sweep  away  with  irresistible  fury  the  crop 
and  the  soil  together;  on  the  contrary,  rain  is 
said  to  become  more  rare  in  proportion  as  the 
great  chain  of  mountains  is  approached,  and  it 
would  seem  that  within  the  sphere  of  attraction 
of  those  elevated  chains  little  or  no  rain  falls 
upon  the  adjoining  planes ;  this  relation  is  the 
more  credible,  as  in  that  respect  our  new  Coun- 
try may  resemble  other  flat  or  comparatively  low 
countries  similarly  situated,  such  as  the  Country 
lying  between  the  Andes  and  the  Western  paci- 
fic :  the  planes  are  supplied  with  nightly  dews 
so  extremely  abundant  as  to  have  the  effect  of 
refreshing  showers  of  rain,  and  the  spacious 
vallies  which  are  extremely  level  may  with  fa- 
cility be  watered  by  the  rills  &  brooks  which 
are  never  absent  from  those  situations :  such  is 
the  description  of  the  better  known  country  ly- 
ing to  the  south  of  the  red  river,  from  Nacok- 
doches  towards  Sf  Antonio  in  the  province  of 

Texas : 


[  '62] 

i8o5  \  Texas:*  the  richest  crops  are  said  to  be  pro- 
January  j  jjuced  there  without  rain,  but  agriculture  in  that 
quarter  is  at  low  ebb ;  the  small  quantities  of 
maize  furnished  by  the  Country,  is  said  to  be 
produced  without  cultivation,  a  rude  opening  is 
made  in  the  earth  just  sufficient  to  deposit  the 
grain  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  feet  in 
irregular  squares,  and  the  rest  is  left  to  nature ; 
the  soil  is  naturally  tender,  spongy  and  rich,  & 
seems  always  to  retain  humidity  sufficient  with 
the  bounteous  dews  of  heaven  to  bring  the  crops 
to  maturity. 

The  red  and  Arcansa  rivers  whose  Courses  are 
very  long  pass  thro'  portions  of  this  fine  Coun- 
try, they  are  both  navigable  to  an  unknown  dis- 
tance by  boats  of  proper  construction;  the  Ar- 
cansa river  is  however  understood  to  have  greatly 
the  advantage  over  its  neighbour  with  respect 
to  the  facility  of  Navigation  :  some  difficult 
places  are  met  with  in  the  red  river  below  the 
Nakitosh,  after  which  it  is  good  for  150  leagues 
(probably  the  computed  leagues  of  the  Coun- 
try of  nearly  2  miles  each)  there  the  Voyager 
meets  with  a  very  serious  obstacle,  viz  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Raft  as  it  is  called,  that  is, 
a  natural  covering  which  conceals  the  whole 
river  for  an  extent  of  1 7  leagues  continually  aug- 
menting by  the  drift  wood  brought  down  by 

*  The  X  is  pronounced  gutturally,  precisely  in  the  same 
tone  as  the  Scotch  pronounce  the  gh  in  night,  light  &c 

every 


[  '63  ] 

every  considerable  fresh;  this  covering  which  [1805 
for  a  time  was  only  drift  wood,  supports  at  this  IJ*""*'7 
time  a  vegetation  of  every  thing  abounding  in 
the  neighbouring  forest,  not  excepting  trees  of 
considerable  size,  &  the  river  may  be  frequently 
passed  without  any  knowledge  of  its  existence; 
it  is  said  that  the  annual  inundation  is  opening 
for  itself  a  new  passage  thro'  the  low  grounds 
near  the  hills,  but  it  must  be  a  long  time  be- 
fore Nature  unaided  will  dig  out  a  passage  suffi- 
cient for  the  reception  of  the  waters  of  the  red 
river;  about  50  leagues  above  the  natural  bridge 
is  the  residence  of  the  Cadeaux  or  Cadadoquis 
Nation,  of  whose  good  qualities  we  have  already 
spoken;  the  Inhabitants  estimate  the  Post  of 
Nakitosh  to  be  half  way  between  New  Orleans 
and  the  Cadeaux  Nation:  above  this  point  the 
red  river  is  said  to  be  embarrassed  by  many 
rapids  falls  and  shallows,  none  of  which  are 
said  to  be  met  with  in  the  Arcansa  river  as  high 
as  it  is  known,  except  in  the  very  lowest  state 
of  its  waters;  the  navigation  is  reported  to  be 
safe  and  agreeable,  the  lands  on  either  side  are 
of  the  best  quality  &  well  watered  with  springs, 
brooks  &  rivulets,  &  many  situations  proper 
for  mill-seats;  from  the  description  it  would 
seem,  there  is  along  this  river  a  regular  grada- 
tion of  hill  and  Dale  presenting  their  extrem- 
ities to  the  river ;  the  hills  are  gently  swelling 
eminencies  and  the  Dales  are  spacious  Vales  with 

living 


[  i64  ] 

1805  1  living  water  meandering  thro'  them:  the  forests 
January  J  consist  of  handsome  lofty  trees,  &  chiefly  what 
is  called  open  woods,  without  cane-brake  or 
much  underwood ;  the  quality  of  its  lands  is  sup- 
posed much  superior  to  that  of  the  red  river, 
until  it  ascends  to  the  Prairie  Country,  where 
the  lands  are  probably  very  similar.  About  200 
leagues  up  the  arcansa,  is  an  interesting  place 
called  the  salt  Prairie,  there  is  a  considerable 
fork  of  the  river  there,  and  a  kind  of  Savannah 
where  the  salt  water  is  continually  oozing  out  & 
spreading  over  the  surface  of  a  plane;  during  the 
hot  dry  Summer  Season,  the  salt  may  be  raked 
up  into  large  heaps ;  a  natural  crust  of  a  hand- 
breadth  in  thickness  is  formed  when  the  dry 
season  prevails ;  this  place  is  not  often  approached 
on  account  of  the  danger  from  the  Ozage  In- 
dians ;  much  less  do  the  White  hunters  venture 
to  ascend  higher  where  it  is  generally  believed 
that  silver  is  to  be  found.  We  have  been  also 
informed  that  high  up  the  arcansa  river,  salt  is 
to  be  found  in  form  of  a  Solid  rock,  &  may 
be  dug  out  with  the  Crow-bar.  The  waters  of 
the  Arcansa  like  those  of  the  red  river,  are  not 
potable  during  their  low  state;  they  are  both 
charged  highly  with  a  reddish  earth  or  marl 
and  are  also  extremely  brackish  ;  this  inconven- 
ience is  not  greatly  felt  upon  the  Arcansa,  where 
springs,  rills  &  brooks  of  the  finest  fresh  water 
are  so  frequent ;  the  red  river  I  believe  is  not 

so 


[  i65] 

SO  favorably  situated.  Every  account  seems  to  f  1805 
demonstrate  that  immense  natural  magazines  of  1  January 
salt  must  exist  in  the  great  chain  of  mountains 
to  the  westward,  all  rivers  flowing  from  those 
mountains  during  the  dry  season  retain  a  strong 
impregnation  of  salt,  until  that  property  becomes 
imperceptible  by  the  accession  of  the  fresh  wa- 
ters of  many  other  rivers. — The  great  western 
prairies,  besides  the  herds  of  wild  Cattle  (Bison 
commonly  called  Buffalo),  are  also  stocked  with 
vast  numbers  of  a  species  of  wild  goat,  (not  re- 
sembling the  domestic  goat)  extremely  swift  of 
foot;  as  the  description  given  of  this  goat  has 
not  been  very  perfect,  I  have  supposed  from  its 
swiftness,  it  might  be  the  antelope ;  or  it  may 
possibly  be  a  goat  which  has  escaped  from  the 
Spanish  settlements  of  new  Mexico :  I  have  con- 
versed with  a  Canadian  who  has  been  much  with 
the  Indians  to  the  westward,  this  man  told  me 
that  he  had  seen  great  flocks  of  an  wool-bear- 
ing animal  larger  than  common  sheep;  the  Wool 
is  much  mixed  with  hair.  This  is  probably  the 
same  animal  which  has  been  described  &  of 
which  a  plate  has  been  gjven  in  the  medical  re- 
pository of  New  York.  The  Canadian  pretends 
also  to  have  seen  an  unicorn ;  the  single  horn 
he  says  rises  out  of  the  forehead  &  curls  back, 
according  to  his  description  so  as  to  convey  the 
idea  of  the  fossil  Cornu  Ammonis;  this  man 
says  he  has  travelled  beyond  the  great  dividing 

ridge 


[  i66] 

1805  I  ridge  so  far  as  to  have  seen  a  large  river  flow- 
January  j  ijjg  ^Q  tiie  westw^ard;  the  great  dividing  moun- 
tain is  so  lofty  that  it  requires  two  days  to  ascend 
from  its  base  to  its  top,  other  ranges  of  inferior 
mountains  lie  before  and  behind  it;  they  are 
all  very  rocky  &  sandy,  large  lakes  and  vallies 
lie  between  the  mountains;  some  of  the  lakes 
are  so  large  as  to  contain  considerable  islands, 
and  rivers  flow  from  some  of  them :  great  num- 
bers of  fossil  bones  of  very  large  dimentions  are 
seen  among  the  mountains,  which  the  Canadian 
supposed  to  be  of  the  Elephant ;  he  does  not  pre- 
tend to  have  seen  any  of  the  precious  metals,  but 
has  seen  a  mineral  which  he  supposed  might 
yield  Copper:  from  the  top  of  the  high  moun- 
tain, the  view  is  bounded  by  a  curve  as  upon  the 
ocean  and  extends  over  the  most  beautiful  prai- 
ries which  seem  to  be  unbounded  particularly 
to  the  East ;  the  finest  of  the  lands  he  has  seen 
are  on  the  Misouri,  no  other  can  compare  in 
point  of  richness  and  fertility  with  those  of  that 
river. 

This  Canadian  as  well  as  M.  Le  Fevre  say 
that  the  Osages  of  the  tribe  of  white  hairs  in  the 
month  of  December  (early  in  the  month),  plun- 
dered all  the  white  hunters  and  traders  upqn  the 
arcansa  river.  All  the  old  french  hunters  agree 
in  accusing  the  Osages  of  being  extremely  faith- 
less, particularly  those  on  the  arcansa,  the  others 
they  say  are  but  very  little  more  to  be  depended 

upon  ; 


[  '67] 

upon;  they  pretend  to  make  peace  &  enter  into  J 1805 
terms  of  amity,  but  on  the  first  favorable  occa-  [January 
sion,  they  rob,  plunder  and  even  kill  without 
hezitation.  The  other  indian  tribes  speak  of  them 
with  great  abhorrence,  and  say  they  are  a  bar- 
barous uncivilized  race.  The  different  nations 
who  hunt  in  their  neighbourhood,  have  been 
concerting  plans  for  their  destruction. 

M.  Le  Fevre  informs  me  that  the  Nation 
of  the  arcansas  always  waging  a  defensive  war 
with  the  Osages,  propose  sending  in  the  spring 
of  the  year  a  deputation  of  three  Chiefs  to  the 
Government  of  the  United  States.  They  say 
that  the  Country  from  the  Washita  river  on  the 
south  to  the  river  S!  Francis  on  the  north  is  their 
property,  that  they  propose  to  say  to  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  U.  S.  "We  will  relinquish  to 
"  your  people  all  our  lands  to  the  North  of  the 
"arcansa  river,  on  the  white  river  and  on  the 
**  river  St  Francis ;  we  will  also  relinquish  our 
"lands  upon  the  missisippi  lying  between  the 
"  rivers  arcansa  and  Washita  to  an  extent  west- 
"  erly  far  beyond  any  settlements  which  have 
"  been  attempted  by  the  white  people,  the  lim- 
"  its  of  which  we  will  ascertain ;  but  we  request 
"  that  the  powerful  arm  of  the  U.  S.  will  de- 
"  fend  us  their  children  in  the  possession  of  the 
"  remainder  of  our  hunting  grounds,  lying  be- 
"  tween  the  Arcansa  and  Washita  rivers."  — 
Thermometer  at  8^  p.m.    19°,  Extremes  19°- 

32° 


[   '68  ] 

i8o5     132°  The  Moon  &  Stars  shine  with  uncommon 
January/  splendor. 

Friday  ii'?  Thermometer  in  air  11°,  in  river  water  39° 
River  fallen  43^  inches.  Wind  moderate  at  North. 
The  morning  is  fine,  the  sky  perfectly  serene, 
but  the  air  very  cold  and  penetrating :  passed 
the  petit  ecor  a  Fabri,  the  osier  which  grows 
abundantly  upon  the  beaches  above  is  not  seen 
any  lower  upon  this  river,  and  at  this  place  we 
begin  to  see  the  small  tree  called  *  Charnier ' 
which  grows  only  at  the  water  side,  and  is  to  be 
seen  all  the  way  down  the  Washita  below  this 
place,  the  Latitude  here  is  about  33°  40'  which 
is  the  limit  Nature  seems  to  have  placed  to  those 
two  vegetables,  one  on  the  north  &  the  other  to 
the  south. 

I  have  already  remarked  in  my  Journal  of 
the  17^  November  that  we  saw  no  long  moss 
(Tilandsia)  above  Latitude  33°  &  conjectured 
that  Nature  had  limited  its  vegetation  to  that 
parallel;  having  this  circumstance  in  my  recol- 
lection, I  asked  M.  Le  fevre  for  information  re- 
specting its  existence  at  the  Arcansa  settlement, 
which  is  known  to  be  not  far  beyond  33°  of 
Latitude ;  he  informed  me  that  about  ten  miles 
to  the  south  of  their  settlement  the  growth  of 
the  Tilandsia  is  limited,  &  that  so  curiously  as 
if  a  line  had  been  drawn  East  and  West  for  the 
purpose,  as  it  ceases  all  at  once  &  not  by  degrees ; 

hence 


[  '69] 

hence  it  would  appear  that  Nature  herself  has  J 1805 
marked  with  a  distinguishing  feature  the  line  [J^""^^ 
which  Congress  has  thought  proper  to  draw 
between  the  territories  of  Orleans  and  of  Lou- 
isiana. It  is  a  question  of  curiosity  at  what  Lat- 
itude the  limit  of  the  Tilansia  is  found  in  the 
atlantic  states,  and  also  the  Cypress,  which  last 
upon  this  small  river  is  not  found  higher  than 
34°  of  latitude,  it  is  believed  to  be  much  higher 
on  the  Missisippi :  our  maps  represent  a  Cypress 
swamp  on  the  confines  of  the  states  of  Mary- 
land &  Delawar,  in  Latitude  38°^^  at  the  sources 
of  Pocomock  River.  (^  Is  it  the  same  species 
of  Cypress  which  is  found  in  the  Carolinas,  Mis- 
sisippi Territory  &c  ? 

The  weather  continued  clear  &  very  cold  all 
day,  we  landed  at  the  Cadaux  path  to  make  a  fire 
and  dine,  the  Thermometer  at  3^  p.m.  32°  and 
at  8!"  p.m.  it  fell  to  26° — Encamped  1%  league 
below  *  petite  pointe  coupee',  being  nearly  the 
same  place  where  we  found  the  latitude  on  the 
21'.'  November  to  be  33°  29'  29"  ;  having  made 
by  the  pilot's  reckoning  about  1 5  leagues ;  we 
stopped  twice  to  day,  which  has  retarded  us 
nearly  two  hours;  our  rate  of  going  has  been 
about  2%   of  those  leagues  p:  hour. 

Thermometer  in  air  20°,  in  river  water  40°  Saturday  12"* 
—  river  risen  an  inch.    Much  vapor  ascending 
from  the  river.    Part  of  the  night  was  cloudy 

and 


[  I70  ] 

i8o5  1  and  this  morning  the  heavens  are  not  entirely 
January  J  cloudless,  we  therefore  expect  an  approaching 
change  of  weather.  The  air  is  damp  and  pene- 
trating so  that  it  continues  yet  very  cold  on  board 
the  boat;  as  the  day  advanced,  it  proved  more 
cloudy  and  disagreeable  and  altho'  at  2^  P-  n^- 
the  thermometer  was  found  at  43°,  the  sensation 
of  cold  to  the  human  body  was  greater  than  in 
a  dry  air  at  22° — the  face  of  the  heavens  was 
overspread  with  clouds  &  the  atmosphere  ex- 
tremely moist :  we  made  a  good  encampment 
in  the  evening  called  *  Campement  des  bignets ' 
(fritter  camp)  being  about  1 8  of  the  Pilots  leagues, 
tho'  not  much  exceeding  two  days  of  our  voyage 
up,  about  27  oi"  3^  miles  by  our  own  reckon- 
ing ;  we  passed  this  place  between  breakfast  and 
dinner  on  the  1 9^  november.  The  Thermome- 
ter at  8!^  p.  m.  30? 

Sunday  13'.'^  Thermometer  in  air  27°  in  river  water  40°  — 
river  risen  i  j4  inches  —  Calm.  The  morning 
is  very  fine  and  the  atmosphere  dry,  conse- 
quently the  temperature  not  cold  to  the  human 
body.  These  two  mornings  the  river  has  risen  a 
little,  notwithstanding  that  we  have  been  with- 
out rain  for  several  days  past,  &  it  will  be  re- 
membered that  the  three  first  days  of  this  voy- 
age, the  river  was  found  each  morning  to  be 
fallen  ;  this  is  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  boat 
gaining  upon  the  velocity  of  the  stream  more 

in 


[  I/I  ] 

in  the  day  than  it  loses  in  the  night.  Since  we  [1805 
have  got  below  the  rapids,  the  current  is  much  [January 
more  gentle  and  we  make  only  two  of  the  Pilots 
leagues  p!  hour,  which  does  not  exceed  perhaps 
4  english  miles,  it  appears  that  in  nine  hours 
(one  day's)  rowing  down  we  have  made  the  same 
distance  which  we  made  in  1 3  hours  coming  up, 
the  current  at  the  time  of  our  ascent  being  no- 
thing, and  the  space  passed  over  36  miles,  it  will 
be  found  from  these  data  that  in  each  24  hours 
we  gain  upon  the  Current  6j4  miles;  we  have 
therefore  reason  to  conclude  that  we  have  got 
beyond  the  apex  of  the  tide  or  wave  occasioned 
by  the  fresh,  &  are  descending  along  an  inclined 
plane,  but  as  we  always  encamp  at  night,  it  is 
not  surprising  that  in  the  morning  we  find  our- 
selves in  deeper  water  because  the  Apex  of  the 
tide  is  constantly  endeavouring  to  overtake  us, 
and  in  the  morning  we  find  ourselves  on  a  more 
elevated  part  of  the  inclined  plane,  which  we 
had  left  behind  us  the  evening  before. 

This  morning  no  condensed  vapor  was  visi- 
ble on  the  surface  of  the  river,  yesterday  it  was 
considerable;  hence  it  appears  that  13°  differ- 
ence of  temperature  (the  river  being  highest) 
does  not  condense  vapor  with  sufficient  rapidity 
to  render  it  visible,  altho'  20°  are  more  than  are 
necessary ;  it  must  not  be  omitted  to  be  men- 
tioned that  this  morning  the  atmosphere  was 
extremely  dry,  and  therefore  greedy  of  moisture, 

and 


[   ^72  ] 

i8o5  1  and  yesterday  it  was  very  moist,  and  consequently 
January]  j^qj.  disposed  to  disolve  water  rapidly.  The  day 
proved  cool,  tho'  not  disagreeably  so ;  the  wind 
in  the  afternoon  N.E.  and  air  moist :  Made 
this  day  by  the  computed  distances  about  153^ 
leagues  and  encamped  about  one  league  below 
where  we  found  our  Latitude  to  be  3  3°  i  3'  1 6". 5 
on  the  17^^  November,  so  that  we  have  again 
completed  two  days  voyage  ascending  in  one 
descending.  Thermometer  at  8!^  p.m.  30°  Ex- 
tremes 27°— 53° 

Monday  i4'>  Thermometer  in  air  23°,  in  river  water  40°  — 
river  risen  ly^  inch.  Wind  very  light  at  N.W. 
The  atmosphere  is  dry  and  the  temperature 
to  the  human  body  seems  not  very  cold ;  there 
is  a  thin  condensed  vapor  upon  the  surface  of 
the  river,  the  difference  of  temperature  between 
the  river  water  and  air  being  this  morning  1 7° ; 
yesterday  the  atmosphere  being  nearly  in  the 
same  state  i  3°  were  insufficient  to  render  the 
vapor  visible.  If  our  hygrometers  were  instru- 
ments of  a  less  dubious  nature,  and  capable  of 
indicating  by  a  scale  the  absorbing,  disolving  or 
attracting  power  of  the  atmosphere  for  water, 
without  being  influenced  by  heat  and  cold  we 
should  then  be  able  to  determine  a  priori  at 
what  difference  of  temperature  between  water 
and  air  corresponding  to  a  given  degree  of  the 
hygrometer,  ascending  vapor  will  be  visibly  con- 
densed. 


[  173  ] 

densed.  A  green  moss  is  found  upon  the  branches  f  1805 
of  trees  which  are  immersed  in  the  waters  of  the  U^"^^''/ 
inundation,  none  of  the  same  species  appears  in 
a  more  elevated  situation  ;  when  the  waters  sub- 
side vegetation  does  not  seem  entirely  at  a  stand 
in  those  mosses  which  are  but  a  foot  or  two 
above  the  surface,  they  continue  to  be  of  a  lively 
green  &  hang  to  the  length  of  5  or  6  inches : 
the  vegetation  of  this  moss  must  commence 
under  water ;  it  may  be  of  the  same  nature  with 
the  green  matter  deposited  in  fresh  water  con- 
duits which  has  been  examined  by  Priestly  & 
others,  &  which  here  has  arrived  to  a  higher 
state  of  perfection  from  its  free  &  open  situa- 
tion ;  it  is  evident  this  moss  must  vegetate  under 
the  impulse  of  a  considerable  current. 

In  the  afternoon  passed  Latitude  33°  and  the 
Island  of  Mallet  noticed  in  the  Journal  of  the 
1 5'^  of  November  :  made  about  1 9  leagues  this 
day,  being  about  2^  day's  voyage  ascending; 
since  we  have  got  into  the  low  alluvial  Country 
the  channel  is  narrower  and  the  velocity  of  the 
current  greater;  we  are  now  encamped  where 
we  passed  in  the  afternoon  of  the  1 4'!"  Novem- 
ber. The  day  continued  fine  and  of  an  agreea- 
ble temperature ;  at  3!*  p.m.  the  thermometer 
was  at  53°,  at  8!"  p.m.  32°.  An  eclipse  of  the 
moon  will  take  place  this  night  after  midnight, 
we  prepare  to  observe  it ;  regulated  the  watch 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  apparent  time  at  the 

setting 


[  '74] 

i8o5     1  setting  of  the  Sun;  to-morrow  we  shall  give  an 
January  J  account  of  our  observations,  the  sky  is  perfectly 


serene. 


Tuesday  15!^  Thermometer  in  air  30°  in  river  water  40° 
—  no  vapor  visible  on  the  surface  of  the  river : 
river  risen  i  yi  inch — wind  light  at  S.E.  cloudy. 
Prepared  last  evening  to  observe  the  Eclipse 
of  the  Moon,  with  a  very  indifferent  Spy-glass 
magnifying  about  8  times.  The  commence- 
ment of  the  Eclipse  was  not  correctly  noted, 
occasioned  by  the  very  strong  effect  of  the  pe- 
numbra in  our  perfectly  serene  &  clear  sky,  the 
moon  not  being  far  removed  from  the  Zenith, 
which  induced  a  belief  that  the  Eclipse  had 
actually  commenced  at  12^  32',  this  circum- 
stance produced  some  inattention  at  the  instant 
of  the  true  commencement,  which  was  supposed 
to  have  happened  at  1 2*"  40 ' ;  but  the  com- 
mencement of  total  darkness  was  observed  with 
due  attention,  and  is  believed  to  be  as  correct 
as  circumstances  with  our  instruments  would 
admit,  and  took  place  at  1 3''  37'.  It  is  believed 
that  the  uncertainty  of  the  moment  of  observa- 
tion did  not  exceed  half  a  minute,  I  am  rather 
disposed  to  say  a  quarter  of  a  minute,  for  the 
transparency  of  the  atmosphere  was  as  perfect 
as  can  ever  be  expected  in  situations  not  more 
elevated  than  ours.  We  shall  ascertain  the  error 
of  the  watch  below  at  some  known  point,  whose 

latitude 


[  '75  ] 

latitude  &  position  can  be  deduced  by  referrence  JiSos 
to  our  geographical  Journal,  &  this  we  shall  [January 
again  perform  on  our  arrival  at  the  post  of 
Washita,  from  which  we  shall  gain  the  rate  of 
the  watch's  going  &  the  whole  may  be  referred 
to  the  meridian  of  the  Post  &  will  serve  to  com- 
pare with  the  results  of  our  lunar  observations 
made  there  on  our  way  up. 

This  morning  the  heavens  are  veiled  by 
clouds ;  during  the  night  the  thermometer  was 
down  to  28"  with  a  pure  serene  sky  and  the  at- 
mosphere so  dry  that  the  cold  was  not  very  sen- 
sible ;  this  morning  with  a  higher  temperature 
and  moist  air,  it  is  cold  and  penetrating.  We 
saw  this  morning  the  first  long  moss  (Tilandsia) 
called  generally  by  the  french  *  barbe  espagnole 
(Spanish  beard)  on  trees  growing  on  the  margin 
of  the  river  about  2}4  leagues  (5  miles)  above 
the  *  Bayou  des  Butes.'  At  this  time  also  we 
emerge  from  the  alluvial  country  noticed  in 
the  former  part  of  this  Journal ;  the  banks  are 
now  of  a  good  elevation,  about  15  to  18  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  river  &  probably 
not  liable  to  be  inundated,  whereas  the  alluvial 
lands  we  have  just  quitted,  are  subject  to  be 
overflowed  from  8  to  i  2  feet ;  we  saw  none  of 
the  green  moss  along  the  alluvial  tract,  which  I 
much  regret,  having  intended  to  take  some  spe- 
cimens for  examination,  I  am  in  doubt  whether 
any  of  the   same  species  grows  below,  as  yet 

we 


[  176] 

i8o5  1  we  do  not  see  it  at  the  *  bayou  des  butes.'  The 
January  J  Sun  at  last  broke  forth  and  we  landed  to  take 
his  altitude  for  the  correction  of  the  watch, 
the  position  was  recognized  by  the  mouth  of  a 
Creek,  so  that  by  a  reference  to  the  geographi- 
cal Journal,  we  found  that  the  Latitude  of  this 
point  is  32°  49'  24",  being  the  same  which 
will  correspond  with  N  10°  W  8^  8>^ '  on  the 
14*!'  nov!  ascending;  the  Sun's  dble  Alt :  lower 
limb  was  66°  36'  45"  Ind  :  err  :  +12'  20"  taken 
at  10^  56'  24"  a.m.  —  The  day  became  cloudy 
in  the  afternoon  and  the  thermometer  rose  to 
63?  which  we  consider  as  an  indication  of 
rain. 

We  made  this  day  nearly  1 5  computed  leagues, 
being  the  eighth  day  from  Ellis  Camp,  and  are 
now  encamped  within  five  of  those  leagues  from 
the  post  of  the  Washita,  being  about  a  mile  above 
the  place  where  we  dined  on  the  1 2^  Novem- 
ber, Latitude  then  found  was  32°  34'  47".  The 
moon  and  stars  shine  with  a  mild  lusture,  no 
appearance  of  change  in  the  weather  notwith- 
standing the  increased  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere.   Thermometer  at  8^  p.m.  43°. 

Wednesday  161''  ...  in  river  water  41°  —  river  risen  1% 
inch :  a  .  .  .  proceeding  from  atmospheric 
moisture,  being  very  different  from  what  we  see 
arising  out  of  the  river  under  considerable  differ- 
ences of  temperature  —  Arrived  at  the  Post  of 

Washita 


[  ^71  ] 

Washita  about  noon  —  The  day  proved  very  j  1 805 
fine  and  warm,  the  thermometer  at  3^  p.m.  [January 
being  at  65°  and  at  8!"  p.m.  it  remained  at  60°  — 
Found  all  w^ell  at  the  post  —  no  news  of  any 
importance  —  our  people  all  in  good  health 
except  one  Soldier  who  has  been  a  good  deal 
incommoded  by  a  dysentery;  but  he  is  not  in 
danger.    Returned  the  hired  boat. 

Thermometer  in  air  60°  in  river  water  44°  —  Thursday  \f> 
river  risen  one  inch.  Wind  at  S.W. — very  clear 
during  the  night  but  cloudy  this  morning — 
made  the  following  observation  to  correct  the 
watch  and  ascertain  her  rate  of  going.  At  8*^  53' 
7"  Sun's  apparent  double  altitude  of  the  lower 
limb  36°  44' 45"  Ind:  err: +  12'  30". 

Employed  the  people  in  getting  Mast  and  Oars  f  Friday  iS*.'' 
for  our  large  boat.  Judging  it  of  importance  to  j  ^  Saturday 
get  to  Natchez  as  soon  as  possible,  I  determined 
after  being  disappointed  in  procuring  horses,  to 
take  the  Canoe  with  one  Soldier  and  my  own 
Domestic,  and  push  down  to  Catahoola,  from 
whence  there  is  a  road  to  Concord  about  30  miles 
across  the  .   .   .    [page  torn]. 

Set  ofFabout  day-break,  and  arrived  after  night  Sunday  20^'' 
at  the  lower  settlement,  about   20  computed 
leagues  from  the  Post.  Called  at  the  house  of  an 
old  hunter  with  whom  I  had  conversed  on  my 

way 


[  '78  ] 

i8o5  1  way  up:  This  man  informs  me  that  at  the  place 
January  j  called  the  mine  on  the  little  Misouri,  there  is  a 
smoke,  which  ascends  perpetually  from  a  particu- 
lar place,  and  that  the  vapor  is  sometimes  insup- 
portable; the  river  or  a  branch  of  it  passes  over 
a  bed  of  mineral,  which  from  the  description 
given  is  no  doubt  martial  pyrites.  In  a  creek 
or  branch  of  the  Washita  called  *  fourche  a 
Luke'*  there  is  found  on  the  beaches  and  in 
the  cliiFs  a  great  number  of  globular  bodies, 
some  as  large  or  larger  than  the  head  of  a  man, 
which  when  broken,  exhibit  the  appearance  of 
Gold,  Silver  and  precious  Stones;  this  most  prob- 
ably is  pyrites  with  chrystalized  spar:  also  at  the 
*  fourche  des  glaises  a  Paul',!  there  is  near  to 
the  river  a  cliff  full  of  hexagonal  prisms  termi- 
nated by  pyramids,  which  appear  to  grow  out 
of  the  rock,  some  an  inch  in  diameter  &  six  to 
eight  inches  long :  there  are  beds  of  pyrites 
found  in  several  small  creeks  communicating 
with  the  river  Washita :  but  it  appears  that  .  .  . 
[page  torn]  indications  on  the  Misouri  were 
most  considered,  because  some  of  the  hunters 
actually  worked  upon  it  &  sent  a  parcel  of  the 
ore  to  New  Oreleans  as  observed  above :  it  is  the 
belief  of  the  people  here  that  the  mineral  con- 
tained precious  metal,  but  that  the  Spanish  Gov- 
ernment did  not  chuse  that  any  mine  should 

*  3  leagues  above  Ellis'  Camp. 

t  higher  up  the  river  than  '  fourche  a  Luke.' 

be 


[  179  ] 

be  opened  so  near  to  the  British  Settlements,  for  fiSos 
which  reason  an  express  prohibition  was  issued  ^■^  ""^v 
against  any  farther  work  being  done  upon  the 
mine ;  since  which  time  it  has  been  no  more 
spoken  of.  This  man  procured  me  some  small 
roots  &  a  few  seeds  of  the  patate  a  chevreuil ;  he 
also  took  me  to  the  next  house  where  I  saw 
a  solitary  tree  of  the  *  bois  d'Arc  '  (bow-wood) 
or  yellow  wood,  which  was  raised  from  a  seed 
brought  from  the  little  Misouri ;  I  requested 
some  large  branches,  but  could  only  obtain 
from  the  Old  Lady  mistress  of  the  place,  two 
very  small  ones ;  the  fruit  fallen  before  maturity 
lay  upon  the  ground,  some  were  of  the  size 
of  a  small  orange,  with  a  rind  full  of  tubercles  ; 
the  color  tho'  in  appearance  faded,  still  retained 
a  resemblance  to  pale  gold  :  the  tree  in  its  native 
soil  when  loaded  with  its  golden  fruit  (nearly 
as  large  as  the  Egg  of  an  Ostrige),  presents  I 
am  told  the  most  splendid  appearance ;  its  fo- 
liage is  of  the  finest  deep  green  greatly  resem- 
bling the  varnished  foliage  of  the  orange  tree, 
and  upon  the  whole  no  forest  tree  can  com- 
pare with  it  in  respect  .  .  .  ental  grandeur. 
The  bark  of  the  young  tree  which  I  saw  resem- 
bled in  its  texture  externally  the  Dogwood 
bark ;  but  its  color  is  a  reddish  or  brownish 
yellow ;  the  appearance  of  the  wood  recom- 
mends it  for  trial  as  an  article  which  may  yield 
a  yellow  die :  I  hope  to  succeed  in  raising  trees 

from 


[  '8o  J 

1805  1  from  the  cuttings  and  a  small  Cion  which  I 
January  J  have  procured;  the  people  suppose  this  tree  too 
young  to  mature  its  fruit,  as  it  has  always  hith- 
erto fallen  when  of  the  size  of  an  orange,  I  am 
inclined  rather  to  suspect  that  the  failure  may 
be  occasioned  by  its  open  and  exposed  situation, 
as  it  naturally  grows  under  the  shade  of  the  for- 
est, this  tree  is  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  it 
is  deciduous  and  appears  to  be  in  a  sound  and 
healthy  state ;  the  branches  are  numerous  and 
full  of  short  thorns  or  prickles,  it  seems  to  re- 
commend itself  as  highly  proper  for  hedges  or 
live  fences,  which  are  greatly  wanted  in  many 
parts  of  the  United  States  :  this  tree  is  known  to 
exist  near  the  Nakitosh  (perhaps  Lat :  32°)  and 
upon  the  river  Arcansa  high  up  (perhaps  in  Lat : 
36°),  it  is  therefore  probable  it  may  thrive  from 
Lat:  28°  to  40°  and  will  be  a  great  acquisition 
to  a  great  part  of  the  U.  S.  should  it  possess  no 
other  merit  than  that  of  being  ornamental. 

On  my  way  down  I  endeavoured  to  discover 
a  place  said  to  produce  Gypsum,  but  being  with- 
out a  proper  guide  I  failed  in  the  research ;  I 
have  no  doubt  of  its  existence,  and  have  taken 
notes  of  the  positions  of  two  places  where  it  has 
been  found ;  one  of  which  is  the  first  hill  or 
high  land  which  touches  the  river  on  the  west 
above  the  large  Creek  called  Bayou  Calumet 
and  the  other  is  the  second  high  land  on  the 
same  side ;   as  those  are  two  points  of  the  same 

continued 


[  '8.  ] 

continued  ridge,  it  is  probable  that  an  immense  fiSos 
body  of  Gypsum  will  be  found  in  the  bowels  U^^^aT 
of  the  hill  connecting  those  two  points  and  per- 
haps extending  far  beyond  them  ;  it  has  been 
said  that  fossil  coal  is  found  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river  opposite  to  the  second  hill ;  it  is  prob- 
ably Carbonated  wood  only  :  a  person  who  pre- 
tends to  have  been  up  among  the  sources  of  the 
Washita  i  oo  leagues  higher  than  the  hot  springs, 
declares  having  found  true  mineral  coal,  which 
burns  with  a  strong  heat  and  bright  flame  with- 
out the  aid  of  other  fuel,  a  property  which  Car- 
bonated wood  does  not  possess.  I  do  not  give 
entire  faith  to  this  last  report,  the  person  who 
informed  me  being  fond  of  the  marvellous. 

Continue  my  voyage  with  contrary  winds  and  f  Monday  21^' 
arrived  the  evening  of  the  ^^^  at  the  Catahoola,  |  ^^^  Tuesday 
which  by  computation  is  fifty  leagues  from  the 
post  of  Washita  :  At  this  place  a  french  man 
named  Hebrard  is  settled,  who  keeps  a  ferry 
across  the  black  river :  here  the  road  from 
Natchez  forks,  one  branch  of  it  leading  to  the 
settlements  on  the  red  river  and  the  other  up 
to  the  Post  of  the  Washita:  The  proprietor  of 
this  place  has  been  a  hunter  and  great  traveller 
up  the  Washita  &  into  the  western  countries; 
he  confirms  generally  the  accounts  we  have  re- 
ceived; it  appears  from  what  he  and  others  say, 
that  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  hot-springs, 

higher 


22" 


[  i82] 

1805  1  higher  up  among  the  mountains,  and  upon  the 
Januaryj  little  niisouri,  during  the  summer  season.  Ex- 
plosions are  very  frequently  heard  proceeding 
from  under  ground,  and  not  rarely  a  curious 
phenomenon  is  seen  which  is  termed  the  blow- 
ing of  the  mountains,  that  is,  confined  elastic 
gaz  forces  a  passage  thro'  the  side  or  top  of  a 
hill  driving  before  it  a  great  quantity  of  earth 
and  mineral  matter :  it  appears  that  during  the 
winter  season  the  explosions  and  blowing  of 
the  mountains  entirely  cease,  from  whence  we 
may  conclude  that  the  cause  of  those  phenom- 
ena is  comparatively  superficial,  being  brought 
into  action  by  the  increased  heat  of  the  more 
direct  rays  of  the  summer-sun. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  the  house  of  M.  Hebrard, 
I  enquired  for  horses  to  carry  me  across  the  low 
country  to  Concord  opposite  to  Natchez,  the 
distance  by  the  road  is  computed  30  miles,  but 
it  is  probable  the  direct  distance  falls  short  of 
25,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the  river  Washita 
preserves  a  kind  of  parallelism  to  the  Missisippi 
until  it  comes  within  the  influence  of  the  high- 
lands of  the  arcansa,  &  thence  it  is  deflected 
to  the  North  west  &  probably  holds  a  middle 
ground  between  the  red  river  and  the  arcansa ; 
the  inclination  of  the  missisippi  is  such  that 
the  walnut-hills  are  30  miles  to  the*east  of  the 
Natchez,  the  Post  of  the  Washita  will  be  found 
therefore  nearly  under  the  same  meridian  with 

that 


[  i83  ] 

that  of  Natchez  very  contrary  to  the  general  f  1805 
idea.  —  M.  Hebrard  very  obligingly  engaged  to  \Ja""a''y 
furnish  me  with  horses,  which  it  was  necessary 
to  hunt  up  in  the  woods ;  In  the  meantime  I 
went  to  view  the  Indian  mounts  spoken  of  in 
the  beginning  of  this  Journal ;  I  find  this  to  be 
a  very  interesting  place,  it  is  the  point  of  conflu- 
ence of  three  navigable  waters  viz  The  Washita 
river.  The  tenza  and  the  Catahoola,  the  second 
communicates  with  the  missisipi  lowlands  by 
the  intervention  of  other  creeks  and  lakes  &  by 
one  in  particular  called  the  Bayou  d'argent  which 
enters  into  the  missisippi  about  14  miles  above 
Natchez,  during  high  water  there  is  navigation 
for  batteaux  of  any  burthen  along  those  bayoux, 
a  large  lake  called  S*  John's  lake  occupies  a  con- 
siderable part  of  this  passage  between  the  Mis- 
sisippi and  the  Tenza  ;  it  is  in  a  horse-shoe  form, 
&  has  been  at  some  former  period  the  bed  of 
the  Missisippi,  the  nearest  part  of  it  is  about  one 
mile  removed  from  the  river  of  the  present  time; 
this  lake  possessing  elevated  banks  similar  to 
those  of  the  river  has  been  lately  occupied  &  im- 
proved ;  many  similar  possessions  and  improve- 
ments have  been  made  since  the  first  news  of 
the  cession  of  Louisiana  by  the  french  to  the 
American  Government ;  I  omitted  to  mention 
in  its  proper  place  that  it  is  understood,  that 
even  the  hot-springs  included  within  a  tract  of 
some  hundreds  of  acres  were  granted  by  the 

late 


[  i84  ] 

1805  \  late  Spanish  Commandant  of  the  Washita  to 
January]  gQj^g  Q^e  of  his  friends,  but  it  is  not  believed 
that  a  regular  patent  was  ever  issued  for  that 
place,  &  it  cannot  be  asserted  that  residence 
w^ith  improvement  can  be  set  up  as  a  plea  to 
claim  the  land  upon. 

The  Catahoola  bayou  is  the  third  navigable 
stream  ;  during  the  time  of  the  inundation  there 
is  an  excellent  communication  by  the  Lake  of 
that  name  &  from  thence  by  large  Creeks  to 
the  red  river ;  The  Country  around  the  point 
of  union  of  those  three  rivers  is  altogether  allu- 
vial ;  but  the  place  of  M.  Hebrard's  residence 
is  no  longer  subject  to  inundation  for  reasons 
which  have  been  already  assigned ;  there  is  no 
doubt  that  as  the  country  augments  in  popula- 
tion and  riches,  this  place  will  become  the  site 
of  a  commercial  inland  town,  which  will  hold 
pace  with  the  progress  and  prosperity  of  the 
country.  On  this  place  are  to  be  found  a  num- 
ber of  Indian  mounts,  one  of  which  is  of  very 
considerable  elevation,  with  a  species  of  rampart 
surrounding  a  very  large  space  which  was  no 
doubt  the  position  of  a  fortified  town ;  having 
taken  some  notes  respecting  this  place,  the  whole 
will  be  digested  and  introduced  into  an  Apendix 
which  will  be  added  to  this  Journal. 

Wednesday  23"?       This  morning  is  cloudy  and  threatens  rain, 
the  horses  are  not  found,  therefore  no  prospect 

of 


[  ^85] 

of  setting  out  to  day;  a  little  rain  fell  about  9!"  fiSos 
a.m. — in  the  afternoon  one  of  the  horses  only  [January 
is  found. 

Last  night  there  was  much  thunder  and  light-  Thursday  24*.'' 
ning  and  this  morning  the  rain  falls  very  fast: 
Having  no  other  employment  I  endeavoured  to 
collect  information,  here  I  met  w^ith  an  Amer- 
ican who  pretends  to  have  been  up  the  Arcansa 
river  300  leagues;  the  navigation  of  that  river 
he  says  is  good  to  that  distance  for  boats  drawing 
3  or  4  feet  water:  I  do  not  give  implicit  faith 
to  this  man,  when  he  speaks  largely  of  the  silver 
which  he  pretends  to  have  himself  collected  upon 
that  river,  and  even  says  that  on  the  Washita  30 
leagues  above  the  hot  springs  he  has  found  silver 
ore  so  rich  that  3  lib  of  it  yielded  one  of  silver,  & 
that  this  was  found  in  a  Cave:  he  asserts  also  that 
the  ore  of  the  mine  upon  the  little  Misouri  was 
carried  to  Kentucky  by  a  certain  Boon,  where  it 
was  found  to  yield  largely  in  silver :  This  Amer- 
ican says  he  has  also  been  up  the  red  river,  that 
there  is  a  great  rapid  just  below  the  raft  or  natu- 
ral bridge  &  several  others  above  it :  The  Cadaux 
Nation  is  50  leagues  above  the  raft,  and  near  to 
their  Village  commences  the  Country  of  the 
great  Prairies,  and  extend  4  or  500  miles  west  to 
the  sand  mountains  as  they  are  termed ;  those 
great  planes  extend  south  far  beyond  the  red 
river;  north  over  the  Arcansa  river  and  among 

the 


[  "86  ] 

i8o5     1  the  numerous  branches  of  the  Misouri.  This  man 
January  J  confirms  the  accounts  of  the  beauty  and  fertility 

of  the  western  Country  &c. — 

This  evening  the  other  horse  has  been  found 

so  that  I  hope  to  set  out  tomorrow  morning. 

Friday  25I''  The  horses  being  late  of  fetching  up,  we  set 
out  only  at  9  o'clock ;  the  weather  was  cloudy 
but  not  cold;  the  meeting  of  three  rivers  here 
which  form  the  black  river,  has  given  it  a  consid- 
erable width  at  this  place,  little  short  I  think  of 
400  yards.  There  is  no  apparent  current  here 
and  the  river  is  rising  very  fast,  which  is  attrib- 
uted to  the  Missisippi  flowing  up  into  the  red 
river.  The  rain  which  has  fallen  these  two  days 
past,  has  rendered  the  roads  extremely  wet  and 
muddy ;  we  made  only  one  league  in  the  hour  ; 
arrived  at  the  bayou  Crocodile  at  2!"  p.m.  This 
place  is  considered  half  way  from  the  black  river 
to  the  Missisippi,  &  is  one  of  those  creeks  which 
are  extremely  numerous  in  the  low  grounds  & 
serve  to  assist  in  venting  the  waters  of  the  inun- 
dation :  the  whole  of  the  Country  thro'  which 
we  have  passed  to  day  appears  to  be  subject  to 
the  annual  inundation ;  there  are  some  places 
higher  than  others  upon  which  Canes  are  found 
growing,  the  margins  of  water  courses  are  always 
found  more  elevated  than  the  lands  at  some  dis- 
tance, which  degenerate  into  Cypress  swamps 
and  lakes. 

At 


[  i87  ] 

At  this  place  we  found  the  waters  of  the  Mis-  fiSos 
sisippi  had  already  flowed  in  so  abundantly,  that  1  January 
there  was  a  necessity  to  prepare  a  raft  for  cross- 
ing, &  having  in  company  three  white  men  who 
understood  the  business,  the  raft  was  prepared  of 
logs  of  the  driest  wood  we  could  procure  lashed 
together  with  our  horse  ropes  and  halters ;  after 
two  hours  delay  we  got  to  the  other  side  of  the 
bayou  which  was  about  60  yards  wide  includ- 
ing the  overflowed  low  margin  of  the  Creek; 
we  had  yet  5  leagues  to  make  &  it  was  already 
4  o'clock;  we  pushed  on,  but  the  roads  were 
little  better  than  mud  and  water  for  several  miles 
together ;  we  were  unable  to  get  on  fast  enough 
to  pass  over  this  bad  part  of  the  road  before  it 
became  extremely  dark,  and  we  expected  to  be 
obliged  to  spend  the  night  in  the  woods  with- 
out fire,  perhaps  without  a  spot  of  dry  land  to  rest 
upon :  it  was  diflicult  to  preserve  the  path ;  in 
this  respect  we  trusted  chiefly  to  the  sagacity  of 
our  horses,  at  length  they  brought  us  out  of 
the  woods  &  at  9!*  p.m.  We  got  to  a  new  settled 
plantation  four  miles  short  of  Concord,  where  we 
were  hospitably  entertained  with  good  homely 
fare,  particularly  milk,  of  which  I  had  not  seen 
a  drop  upon  the  Washita,  not  even  at  their  prin- 
cipal settlement ;  In  those  new  Countries  and  all 
over  the  Opelousa  Country,  the  Horned  Cattle 
are  in  a  semi-savage  state,  no  provision  is  made 
or  laid  up  for  them  during  winter;  in  the  fall  of 

the 


[  '88  ] 

i8o5  1  the  year  it  is  therefore  necessary  to  turn  out  the 
January]  Q^if  -^ith  the  Cow,  Otherwise  she  would  aban- 
don her  young  in  the  hands  of  its  owner  where 
it  would  infallibly  perish;  the  Cattle  move  off 
in  search  of  winter  food  &  the  proprietor  fre- 
quently knows  nothing  of  the  situation  of  his 
stock,  untill  the  warm  weather  of  the  Spring  & 
Summer  season  calls  them  out  in  search  of  the 
young  tender  herbage  of  the  open  fields. 

Saturday  26*.''  Set  Out  in  the  morning  with  a  very  cold  freez- 
ing air;  I  now  think  it  extremely  fortunate  that 
we  were  not  detained  last  night  in  the  woods,  as 
we  certainly  should  have  spent  a  very  disagree- 
able night.  Arrived  in  an  hour  at  Concord  ;  the 
settlement  of  this  place  has  commenced  only 
since  the  treaty  of  limits  between  the  U.  S.  and 
Spain,  but  it  has  received  its  most  considerable 
augmentation  since  the  cession  of  Louisiana  to 
the  U.  S.  by  citizens  of  the  Missisippi  territory 
who  have  either  established  their  residence  alto- 
gether upon  newly  acquired  lands,  or  what  has 
perhaps  been  equally  common,  have  taken  up 
tracts  of  land  under  the  authority  of  the  Spanish 
Commandant  &  have  gone  to  the  expense  of 
improvements  either  in  their  own  names  or  in 
the  names  of  others  before  the  20*!"  of  December 
1803  hoping  thereby  to  hold  their  new  posses- 
sions under  the  Sanction  of  the  law.  Exclusive 
of  the  few  actual  residents  on  the  banks  of  the 

Missisippi 


[  »89] 

Missisippi,  there  are  two  very  handsome  lakes  ("1805 
in  the  interior,  on  the  banks  of  which  settle-  lJ^""^''y 
ments  of  a  similar  nature  have  been  made. 

Crossed  the  ferry  and  breakfasted  at  Natchez 
and  arrived  at  my  own  house  at  ten  o'clock 
where  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  my  family 
all  well. 


JOURNAL  of  a  Geometrical  Survey 
commencing  at  S!  Catherine  s  landing 
on  the  East  shore  of  the  Missisippi 
descending  to  the  mouth  of  the  red 
river,  and  from  thence  ascending  that 
river,  the  black  river  and  river  of  the 
Washita  as  high  as  the  Hot  Springs  in 
the  proximity  of  the  last  named  river. 


[3] 


Preamble 

THE  distances  are  taken  by  time  from  a  portable 
chronometer,  and  proportioned  by  a  log-line 
divided  into  perches,  run  out  for  half  a  minute :  con- 
sideration was  always  had  for  the  velocity  of  the  Cur- 
rent by  deducting  it  immediately  from  the  rate  per 
log,  when  it  merited  attention :  it  is  to  be  understood 
that  the  rate  per  log  noted,  continues  the  same  untill 
it  is  again  noted  with  change. 

All  meridian  or  other  altitudes  of  the  Sun  above 
the  horizon,  noted  in  the  following  Journal,  are  to  be 
understood  of  the  lower  limb,  unless  otherwise  ex- 
pressed. 

An  excellent  Circle  of  reflection  with  a  triple  Index, 
made  byTroughton  of  London  graduated  to  lo''  of 
a  degree,  was  used  for  taking  altitudes,  lunar  distances 
&c ;  this  Circle  is  supported  on  a  pedestal  which  gives 
it  a  solidity  &  perfection  never  to  be  expected  from 
any  instrument  held  in  the  hand ;  the  index  error  was 
regularly  ascertained  immediately  after  taking  a  me- 
ridian altitude,  by  observing  the  Sun's  contact  with  his 
reflected  image  both  above  and  below :  for  facility  in 
practice  the  greater  contact  was  added  to  the  apparent 
double  altitude  when  the  index  error  was  additive  ;  and 
the  lesser  contact  was  added  when  the  error  was  sub- 
tractive;  which  includes  the  Sun's  semi-diameter  and 
the  correction  of  the  index  error  giving  at  once  the 
apparent  double  altitude  of  the  Suns  center,  being 
careful  to  subtract  the  correction  of  refraction  from 
the  altitude  of  the  lower  limb  only  :  altho'  this  was  my 


[4] 

practice,  I  have  agreeably  to  custom  given  always  the 
Index  error :  some  small  differences  will  be  found  in 
calculating  the  Latitudes,  arising  from  my  practice,  of 
prefering  the  Suns  semidiameter  taken  from  my  in- 
strument (generally  smaller)  to  that  found  in  the  nau- 
tical almanack,  Mf.  Maskelyne  astronomer  royal  has 
long  since  observed  that  the  Sun's  diameter  as  taken 
from  Mayer's  tables  is  3''  too  much,  I  observe  that  this 
error  is  corrected  in  the  almanac  for  1 805. 

The  rate  of  going  of  the  Chronometer  having  been 
frequently  changed  by  being  carried  in  the  pocket,  it 
was  not  proposed  to  depend  upon  its  keeping  the 
Longitude  otherwise  than  as  a  good  second  hand  watch 
to  note  the  instance  of  astronomical  observations,  and 
was  always  preserved  carefully  in  a  horizontal  position 
untill  a  connected  series  of  observations  was  completed, 
during  which  time  it  is  believed  that  the  rate  of  going 
was  sufficiently  equable. 


[5] 


"Journal  of  a  Geometrical  Survey  com- 
mencing at  S^  Catherine's  landing  on 
the  East  shore  of  the  Missisippi  de- 
scending to  the  mouth  of  the  red  riv- 
er, and  from  thence  ascending  that 
river,  the  black  river  and  river  of  the 
Washita  as  high  as  the  Hot  Springs  in 
the  proximity  of  the  last  named  river. 

THE  following  courses  and  distances  from  S! 
Catherines  landing  to  the  mouth  of  the  red 
river  were  taken  on  the  return  of  the  boat  at 
the  termination  of  the  voyage,  but  are  now  placed  with 
more  propriety  at  the  commencement  of  the  survey. 

South       2IO  perches. 

S70  W1212 at  810  Hootsell's  plantation  on 

the  right  i  ^  mile  above  the  Island. 
S  30  W  120  passed   between   the   Island    and  right 

bank. 
South  240 
S  40  E  210 
S  30  E  240 
S  20  W  930 
S  60  W  240 
West  492 
S35  W  282 
S  20  W   189 


[6  J 

S  5  W 1 470  At  141 8  passed  Homochilo  river  on 
the  left. 

S   40  E    528 

S   20  W  600 

S   50  W  540 

S   20  W  420 

S   60  E   595 

S  75  E  925  At  805  Buffalo  river  on  the  left;  ar- 
rived at  Fort  adams. 

S  30  W2250  At  1940  the  Line  of  demarcation  on 
the  left  31°  North  Lat :  &  6^  6'.  42''. 
Long:  West  of  Greenwich;  the  last 
by  M.  DeFerrer. 

S   60  W    40 

N  65  W  160 

N  15  W  360 

N  40  W  312 

N  60  W  120 

N  85  W  960  to  the  mouth  of  Red  river. 


[7] 


RED    RIVER 

ARRIVED  at  the  mouth  of  the  Red  river  the  J 1804 
evening  of  the  17*!!  of  October:  The  Latitude  \ October 
and  Longitude  of  this  place  having  been  accurately 
ascertained  by  Doctor  Jose  Joakin  de  Ferrer^  we  did 
not  think  it  necessary  to  lose  any  time  on  that  account 
—  Lat  3 1°  01'  15''  North,  and  Long :  6-7-1 1"  west 
of  Greenwich  —  proceeded  to  take  the  Courses  and 
distances  of  the  Red  river  as  follows,  beginning  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  on  the  right  margin. 

Thursday,  18'? 

N  14°  E  o'123'to  a  point  on  the  same  side:  rate 

p'  Log  4  per :  p'  half  minute,  no 

opposing  Current.  River  550  yards 

wide. 
N     8  W  -.47  to  a  point  on  the  left  side. 
N  20  W  -.23  to  a  point,  right  bank. 
N     5  E  -.   5  alongshore.  River  300  yards  wide. 
N  22  E  -.22  to  a  point  left  side  —  a  Creek  to 

the  right. 
N  10  W  -.  9  along  shore.   Rate  of  going  4  per. 
N  25  W-.  6  .  .  .  d". 
N  45  W-.ii  a  lake  on  the  right  side. 
N  80  W  -.22  to  point  right  side. 
N  40  W-.  4  — river  250  yds  wide. 
N  10  W-.  4  — no  sensible  current. 
N  32  E  -.17  to  a  p"  on  the  left  200  y -' wide. 
N  25  W-.ii  to  a  p"  on  the  right. 


8  Red  River 

1804     1        N°  10  W -.16  to  a  p"  on  the  left. 
October/        N„i5  W-.  6  to  a  p?.  on  the  right. 

N..  25  W-.27  to  a  p"  same  side,  a  bend  to  the 

right. 
N..38  W-.  7  along  shore. 
N„40  E  -,10  d?. 
S    75  E  -.42  to  a  p.'.  on  the  left. 
N  40  E  -.  7  along  shore. 
N     5  E  -.41  to  a  p"  on  the  right. 
N  40  E  -.  6  to  a  p"  on  the  left  —  a  large  Creek 

on  the  right. 
Ns  80  W  -.24  to  a  p.'  on  the  right. 
N..  10  E  -.13  along  shore. 
N..75  W-.23  alongshore. 
S    85W-.i6d?. 
N  75  W-.19  d.*? 

S    50  W  -.46  to  a  point  on  the  right.    Made  this 
day  12  Miles  296  perches. 
Friday  19!^  Thermometer  before  Sun  rise  46° 

N  75  Wo'!i9'to   a    point  on  the  left.      Rate  7 
perches  per  yi  Minute. 
Same  course  0.27  to  do.  on  the  right. 
N  30  W  0.30  along  shore. 

Wo.ii  .  .  .d?. 
N  60  W  0.14  a  point  on  the  left :  rate  of  going 
7  perches  per  ]/2  Minute. 
W  0.23  along  shore. 
Same  course  0.26  a  point  on  the  right. 
N  75  W  0.33  along  shore. 
N  50  W  0.26  to  a  point  on  the  left :  at  5'  a  Creek 

on  the  left. 
N  70  W  0.22  a  point  on  the  right ;  wind  contrary 
hove    the    log    rate    of    going    4 
perches. 


Black  River  9 

N  35  Wo'!22'along  shore.  ri8o4 

NioWo.ija  point  on  the  left,  landed  to  ob-t  October 

serve  and  dined. 
Face  of  the      Doub.  ap.  alt.  O  lower  limb  97^'- 
Circle  West     o"  In :  er :  — 13'  11".  5  Lat :  found 

3iLi5'_48". 
N  60  W  0.40  a  p'  on  right  .  .  rate  5  perches. 
N  50  W  o.ao  along  shore  to  the  mouth  of  black 

river    150  y?!  wide,  red   river   the 

same  width ;  entered  Black  river. 
N  35  E  0.25  a  point  on  the  left. 
N  10  E  0.31  along  shore. 


BLACK   RIVER 

N  40  W  oh6'  along  shore,  river  100  yards  wide. 

S    75  W0.20  to  a  point  on  the  right:  sounded 
20  feet,  black  sand,  encamped  for 
the  night ;  made  this  day  1 5  miles 
102  perches. 
Saturday  20!^  Thermometer  before  Sunrise  47°. 

W  0.30  along    shore  —  hove    the    Log,   4 
perches  per  ^  min. 

N  45  W  0.45  to  a  point  on  the  right  —  tempera- 
ture of  the  river  73°. 

N  10  W0.28  to  a  point  on  the  left  —  Chalybeate 
spring,  temperature  66°. 

N 0.16  along  shore. 

Same  course  0.42  to  a  point  on  the  right  6  J^  perches 
per  log. 

N  20  W0.30  along  shore  rate  of  going  4  perches 
per  log. 


lo  Black  River 

1804     1         N  50  E  0^30'along  shore  river  80  yards  wide  — 
Octoberj  Canes  on  the  right. 

E  o.io  to  the  left  shore  landed  to  observe 

at  noon  &  dine. 
Face  of  the      O    doub  :    mer:   ap  :   alt:  95-34'. 
Circle  East       5''.  In  :  er  +  13^—32''.  5 — Lat  found 

31"  22' 46''.  6. 
S  75  E  0.58  to  a  p?  on  the  right  &  continue  to  the 

left —  Log  4^  perch  per  ^Minute. 
N  63  E  0.47  to  a  point  on  the  right  and  continue 

to  a  point  of  the  left ;  Thermom- 
eter at  3"?  80° 
N  25  E  0.40  along  shore  —  Canes  on  the  right. 
N  45  W  0.27  along  shore. 
S    80  W  I.  6  .  .  ditto;  encamped  for  the  night. 

Soundings  5  fathoms,  black  sand. 

This  day's  voyage  makes  13  miles 

40  perches. 
Sunday  21"  last    )  Thermometer  before  sun  rise  60° 
course  continued  J  a  little  cloudey  near  the  Horizon. 
S  80  W  0.48  along  shore. 
N  45  W 0.5 1  to   an    Island;   rate   per   log   4^ 

perches. 
N  13  W  I.  3  hoist  sail,  rate  per  log  8  perches: 

cane  brake,  little  settlement. 
N  20  E  0.25  to  a  point  on  the  left.   Rate  per  log 

4^  perch. 
N25Wo.i4toa  point  on  the  right. 
N  40  E  o.  6  to  the  left ;  landed  to  observe  and 

dine,  clouds  came  over  just  at  the 

moment  before  the  Sun  came  upon 

the    meridian,  went  off  in    a  little 

time,  he    had  dipped :  the  double 

alt:  is  94?  37'.  o''. 


Black  River  ii 

In'er  :  +  13'.  34'' which  is  too  small,  J 1804 
the  latitude  is  too  far  north.  '[October 

N  75  E  ©{'40' along  shore. 
N  40  E  0.22  ditto  Thermometer  83? 
S   30  E  0.23 
Same  course  i .  6  (sent  the  men  to  track)  along  shore, 
rate  per  log  5  perches. 
S    13  E  0.46  continue  tracking;  cross  and  go  on 

to  a  point  on  the  left. 
N  75  E  0.35  to   the   right  —  encamped   for  the 
night.    Extremes  of  the  Thermom- 
eter 60?  to  82°  cloudy  ;  wind  S.S.E. 
made  this  day  14  Miles  59  perches. 
Monday  22  —  Thermometer    before    Sun    rise    65? 
Wind    S.S.E.  cloudy,    rain   before 
day. 
Continued 

N  75  E  0.20  to  a  point  on  the  right. 
S    65  E  0.35  along  shore  —  by  log  5  perches  per 
j4  Minute. 
E   1. 1 4  to  a  point  on  the  left,  cloudy. 
N  0.30 

Hoist  sail 

N  40  W  o.  1 8  to  a  point  on  the  left  —  by  Log  8 
perch's  per  j4  Minute. 
Wind  fails 

W  2.12  to  a  point  on  the  right  —  by  Log 
4  perches,  long  reach,  rain  at  noon, 
no  observation. 
N  20  W0.35  along  shore  —  Thermometer  79? 
N  40  E   I.  3  to  a  point  on  the  left  —  by  Log  5 

perches. 
N  10  Wo. 1 9  along  shore. 
N  45  W0.20  to  a  point  along  shore  —  sounded 


12  Washita 

1804     1  3  J^  fathom,  black  sand  —  extremes 

October  J  of  the  thermometer  65?  to  79°  made 

this  day  13  Miles  76  perches. 
Tuesday  23^    Thermometer    68?    before    sun    rise. 
Wind    N.N.W.    the   river    fell    3 
inches  in  the  night. 
N  65  Wa*!  5'along  shore  by  log  5^  perches. 
N  10  W  0.50  to  a  point  on  the  right. 
N  10  E  0.38  along    shore   contrary   wind  —  by 
log  3  ^  perches  observed  O  Doub : 
alt:    92?58'.45".    In:  Er:   +13'. 
dinner  45''.  5. 

continue 

N  10  E  0.50  along  shore. 


WASHITA 

N30  E  oh5'to  the  left  shore,  wind  N.N.W.  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  Catahoola, 
West  course  ;  thermometer  75°. 

N  10  E  o.  8  the  mouth  of  Washita  :  Bayu  Tensa 
forks  with  Washita  bearing  N  80° 
E:  log  5§^  perches. 

N  65  Wo.  7  along  shore  on  the  right :  encamped. 
Extremes  of  the  thermometer  68?- 
75°  took  information  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Catahoola  which  detained  us 
iy2  hours;  sounded,  6  fathoms; 
made  this  day  9  miles  77^  perches. 
By  our  reckoning  the  mouth  of 
Washita  is  distant  from  the  mouth 
of  Red  river  77  miles  57  perches ; 


Washita  -      13 

and  by  the  old  estimation  32  French  [1804 

leagues.  "[October 

Wednesday  24    Thermometer    before    sunrise    54? 

Wind  North,  cloudy,  temperature 

of  the  river  71?  no  current  worth 

estimating. 
N  65  Wo"?  9'continued  to  the  right  shore  —  rate 

of  going  per  log  43^  perches. 
N  35  E  0.23  along  shore. 

N 0.20  ditto  —  high  land  on  the  right. 

W0.12  ditto,  by  log  5  perches.    Bayu  Ha- 
ha  on  the  right  coming  in  f  ?  East. 
N 0.12  ditto,  oblique  strata  of  clay,  some 

dipping  under  y'  horizon  30?  in  the 

direction  of  the  river. 
N  60  E  0.1 1  to  the  left  shore, 
breakfast 

N  30  E  0.27  along    shore    by    log    5    perches 

cloudy. 
N  45  Wo. 1 3  ditto,  river  80  yards  wide. 

Wo. 1 8  to  a  point  on  the  right  luxuriant 

vegitation,  grapevines,   &c  in  rich 

dark  festoons. 
N  30  Wo.  6  along  shore. 
N  30  E  o.  3  clearing  up  —  wind  north. 
N  50  E  0.19 
N  0.49  landed  on  the  right  to  observe  O 

Doub:  alt:  92?  4'.  50''  In:   =  er: 
dinner  +13'.  45''  land  high  no  appearance 

of  overflowing,  oak   forest,   white, 

red,   black,    rich    shrubbery.    Lat: 

found  3 1°  42'  3o'^5. 
continued 

N  0.42  to  the  right  shore. 


continue  taking  all 
day  rate  per  log  5 
perches. 


14  Washita 

1804      1         ^  SS  W  0*13 1 'rich  herbage  along  shore. 
October  J         N  40  E  o.ii  along  shore  —  low  and  small  tim- 
ber, upon  the  high  bank. 
N  70  E  0.17  along  shore  " 

E  0.17  ditto 
N  45  E  o.  5  ditto 
N  o.  8  ditto 

N  60  W0.83  ditto 

Wo.  9 
S  72  W0.24  to  the  left  —  a  large  bayu  going  to 

S.  W.  called  Barchelet. 
N  15  W0.39  made  this  day  14  miles  48  perches. 
Thursday  25  Thermometer  49?  temperature  of  the 

river  68?  Wind  North,  cloudy, 
contin** 

N  15  W0.20  at  12'.  pine  point  on  the  left,  and 
Villemont's  prairie  on  the  right,  per 
Log  4  perches. 
N  45  E  o.  3  to  a  point  on  the  right  —  high  land. 

E  0.43  at  3'.  bayu  on  the  left. 
N  20  E  0.29  to  Bayu  Louis  on  the  right,  here 
commences  the  rapids. 
Breakfast. 

N  I    mile  so   many  shoals   in    this  course 

that  no  time  or  log  could  be  kept  — 
by  estimation  we  went  one  mile  and 
then  were  completely  embayed,  be- 
ing enclosed  by  a  bar  of  gravel  and 
sand  with  only  8  to  12  inches  of 
water ;  cloudy,  no  observation ; 
This  day  we  made  only  3  miles 
120  perches. 
Friday  26  Thermometer  40?  Wind  N.W.  light 
clouds  took 


Washita  i  5 

At  loH*'-  A.  M.  O  ap,  dblc  alt :  82?  /.lo''  In  :  er  :  +  1%'.^%"  to  regulate    r  -  Oq  . 

the  watch.  I  „     ^, 

At  II  .40.45  Do  88.  lo.    5  Magnetic  Azim :    [  ^CtODCr 

S  zoX  E. 
At  noon  took  the  0  mer  :  alt :  (doub)  90?  y/ .  l^' 
In  :  er  :  +  13^.  ifl".       Lat.  31?  48'.  Si" •^-     ^'"• 
mometer  at  3  o'clock  70? 

Saturday  27-  Thermometer  32°  temperature  of  the 
river  64?  wind  North,  clear  above 
—  a  fog  on  the  river,  no  observa- 
tion all  our  efforts  being  employed 
Course      ^  to  get  through  a  gravelly  bar  un- 

continued  I ^ mile   till  i  o'clock;  the   rapids  continu- 
North       J  ing  occasioned    frequent   stops    so 

that  we  could  only  estimate  the  re- 
mainder of  this  course  at  ^  of  a 
mile ;  the  rockey  pass  which  com- 
pleted the  rapids  being  200  yards 
from  the  end  of  this  last  course. 

Woh5'  to  a  point  on  the  right — per  log 

4/^  perches. 

N 0.38  at  II  a  bayu  on  the  left  —  a  point 

on  the  left :  encamp :  extremes  of 
the  thermometer  32°— 73"  :  this  day 
made  2  miles  77  perches. 
Sunday  28.  Thermometer    40?    temperature    of  the 
river  water  (i'^°.  wind  N.W.  —  clear 
above  —  fog  on  the  river. 
N  45  Wo. 1 7  rate  by  log  4^  perches. 
N  0.17  at  5'.  a  prairie  or  natural  meadow 

on  the  left  to  a  point  on  the  left. 
N  15  W0.13  Bayoo  Boeuf  on  the  right   at   5'. 

Rockey  hill  on  the  right. 
N  45  W0.17 
N  15  E  0.18 
N  70  W0.20 


1 6  Washita 

1804     1         S  55  Woho'on  the  right — here  we  made  the 
October  J  following  observations 

A.  M.  O  doub  :  alt :  53°  19^.  oc/''.  at  9I1-  e/-W.  — Mag  :  Az  :  S  60  El 
do    58   .14  ,  10       at  9I1  zo  -%%.  d"        S  57  EJ 

In  :Er:+ 13^58, 
Apparent  distance  of  the  Sun  and  Moons  nearest  limbs  53°   24^.  50^^. 

In  :  Er  :  +  13^  1%''.  at  9b  47/.  1%%" . 

Same  course  0.6  on  the  right,  tracking  the  boat ;  by 
log  5  perches. 
Wo. 1 4  ditto. 
N  10  E  0.14 
N  10  W0.17 
Wo.  1 7 
S  10  Wo. II  To  the  right,  landed  to  observe, 
dinner  O  ap  :  doub  :  alt :  88?  58^.45''.  In  : 

er:  +13'.  58".  Lat :  found  31?  53'. 

Contin"! 

S  10  Wo.  8 

S  78  Wo.  8 

S  80W0.10 

N  30  W  I.  8  a  large  prairie  or  savannah  on  the 
right  —  thermometer  78?  at  3*!  the 
plane  is  named  "  Prairie  noyee." 

S  45  W0.32 

N  45  W  0.13  to  the  left. 

N  80  W0.31 

S  45  W0.15 

S  30  E  0.16  rate  by  log  5^  perches. 

S  82  Wo. 1 2  to  the  encampment.  Sounded,  3 
fathom,  mud  and  sand,  made  this 
day  12  miles  116  perches. 

Note  the  rate   of  going   of  the 
watch  to    be  ascertained  from   the 


Washita 


17 


morning  altitudes  of  the  Sun   of 
this  day  and  the  26*- 

In  future  I  have  determined  to 
take   down    the   distances    by   the 
hour   and   minute   as   first   placed 
upon  the  slate  or  blotter,  being  less 
liable   to  error;   the  differences  as 
above   stated  may  be  taken  after- 
wards at  leisure. 
Monday  29'-  Thermometer  41°  temperature  of  the 
river  water  62?  wind  N.W.  fog  on 
the  river. 
Set  out  at     6^22'  rate  per  Log  5^  perches. 
S  32  W6.31 
N  3  5  W  6.40 
N  65  W7.  8 

W  7.20  to  the  right  bank. 
N  45  W  7.30  to  the  left. 

N  55  E  7.48  a  Creek  on  the  left:  landed  and 
made  the  following  observations  of 
the  distances  between  the  nearest 
limbs  of  the  sun  and  moon. 
'At8'!57'.io''dis:4i?58\2o'  ' 
9.  6  .10  .  .  .  41.55.40 
9.26 .18  .  .  .  41.50.10 
A.  M.  ]  Took  the  following  doub :  alt :  of  the 
Sun  and  azimuth. 

At   9':  47'.  46''  doub:  alt:  68?  44^.30'' 
.  Sun's  magnetic  Az :  S  45?  E. 
In:  Er:  the  same  +13'.  45''. 
Set  off  at       lo*!  4'. 

N  55   E  10.20  rate  per  log  ^j4  perches. 
N  30  W10.31 
N  15  E  10.43 


1804 
October 


In:  Er: 

+  ^3' AS' 


i8 

Washita 

1804    \       

OctoberJ         N  — 

Wii^  i' 

-   II-  7 

N45 

E  11.41 

W 1 1.47  took  the  0  mer :  ap  :  doub :  alt : 

88?  10'.  00"  In:  Er:  +13'.  45'' 

Lat:  found  3 1?  5 8'.  2". 

dinner 

1. 12  p.m. 

Continf 

W  1. 19 

N25 

W  1.42 

N65 

W  2.  4  to  the  left. 

N 

-      2.35 

N45 

W  2.46 

N  85 

W  3.15  rate  per  log  6  perches  thermom- 

eter 85? 

N 

-     3.25 

N  85 

E    3.58  lost  4'.    Cliffs   and   pine   woods, 

soil  thin  greyish  sandy  loam. 

N  80  W  4.14 
N  45  W  4.32 
S   55  W  4.55  Wind  S.W.  Log  5  perches. 

W  5.13 
N  35  W  5.28 

N  55   E    5.35  to  the  right  encamped.    Soundings 
3  fathom,  thermometer  62? 

Note.  The  watch  having  been 
suffered  to  run  down  last  night, 
the  times  of  the  altitudes  of  this 
day  have  consequently  no  connec- 
tion with  the  former.  This  day 
made  14  miles  65  perches. 
Tuesday  30'''  Thermometer  47?  temperature  of  the 
river  water  60?  fog  on  the  river 
wind  W.N.W.  clear. 
Set  off  at         6.  5 


Washita  i  9 

N  75  E    6M6'rate  per  log  5  perches.  ri8o4 

N  20  E     6.34  [October 

N  70  W  7.10 

S    50  W  7.35  lost  1'. 
W  7.50 
Breakfast        8.47 

N  10  W  9.12 

N  40  E    9.25 

N  82  E    9.47 

N  68  W10.25 

S    50  W10.55  wind  W. 

N  50  Wii.  7 

N  II. 14 

N  60  E  11.34  landed  and  took  the  Suns  mer: 
doub  :  altitude  87?  16'.  10''  In :  er: 
+  i3'.2o''.,  some  uncertainty  at- 
tended this  observation  ;  the  alti- 
tude observed  may  have  been  a 
minute  too  small,  which  would 
place  the  latitude  Y^  minute  too 
far  north ;  it  is  however  recorded 
with  this  remark  latitude  found 
32°5'.24^ 
Set  off  at        1 .20 

N  50  W  2.  8  rate  per  log  5  perches. 

N  30  E    2.35 

N  45  W  2.42  wind  W. 

W  2.48 

S    60  W  3.37  lost  9'. 

N  55  W  4.  7  lost  4'.  a  rapid :  river30  yards  wide. 

N  60  E    4.28 

N 4-34 

W  5.15  lost  14'  creek  on  the  left,  perhaps 

Bayu  Calumet. 


20  Washita 

1804     1        N 5^5' to  the  left — encamped  extremes 

OctoberJ  of  the  thermometer  47?-83?  Made 

15  miles  150  perches. 
Wednesday  3 1  Thermometer    44°    river  water   62? 

Wind  N.W.    Clear. 
Set  out  at       6.30 

N  45  E    6.50  strong  current,  rate   per   log   re- 
duced, 2  perches. 
N  20  W  6.55 
S   65  W  7.46  lost  5'. 

N  40  W  8.10  got  upon  a  shoal:  breakfasted. 
Set  off  9.58 

N  40  W 1 0.44  lost  10' 
N  10  W11.18 

N25  E11.35  per  log  41^  perches:  landed  and 
took    the    Suns    apparent :    mer : 
double  alt:  86?  27'.   10''  In:  er: 
dinner  +13'-  40''  latitude  found  32?  lo". 

13''  at  seting  out  got  upon  a  bar 
which  detained  us. 
Set  out  again 

at  2.00  got  over  the  bar. 
N  25  E    3.00  lost  6\  per  log  4  perches. 
N  74  W  3.10  a  small  plantation  on  the  right. 
S    25  W  3.35  Thermometer  84? 

W  3.40    . 

N     5  W  4.  8 

N  35  W  4.45  to    a   small   plantation  —  another 
joining  below :  this    day  made   6 
miles  165  perches. 
November    1  Thermometer  48?  river  water  62?  calm 
Thursday  i"J  clear. 

W  j4  mile.    The  first  part  of  this 
course  could  only  be  estimated  by 


Washita  2 1 

the  eye,  as   a   great  part  of  this  [1804 
morning  was  employed  in  getting  [November 
over   a   rapid,  which  we  effected 
about   12   (noon)  it  may  be  put 
down  at  half  a  mile. 
Set  off  after!    1,     , 

,.  }-2.20 

dmner       J 
continu'd  W  2.33  rate  by  log  3   perches  against  a 
current. 
N  40  W  3.12  a  cliff  100  feet  crowned  by  pines, 
lost  14'.  this  course  upon  a  shoal. 
N30  E    3.14 

E    3.42  lost  2'. 
N  30  E    3.44  rate  per  log  4^  perches. 
N  15  E    3.54  Thermometer  85? 
N  45  E    4.36  lost  22'  upon  a  shoal. 
N  25  E    4.40 

W  5.24  a  sand  bar  half  way  across :  river 
50  yards  wide. 
N  70  W  5.44 


N 

5.50 

N45 

E 

5,55  at  8^  thermometer  64?  extremes 
48?  -85?  made  this  day  4  miles 
115  perches. 

Friday  2*! 

Thermometer  48?  river  water  62? 
light  clouds ;  wind  S.S.E.  a  little 
fog  on  the  river. 

Set  off  at 

6.50 

N45 

E 

7.16  rate  per  log  4^  perches. 

N 

— 

7-23 

N  6s 

W 

7-30 

S   55 
breakfast 

W 

8.26  lost  3'. 
9.19 

W 1 0.00  lost  20'  on  a  shoal. 


22  Washita 


1804        1        N 
November  j 

S5 

W 

11^54^ 

lost   ij4    hour   on   a 

log   under 

water. 

N 

10 

E 

12.30 

lost  7'.  on  a  shoal. 

N 

15 

W 

i'^'53 

landed  to  dine. 

Set  of 

'at 

2.25  got  immediately  upon 

a  log  and 

after  getting  off  set  out  again  at 

4.00  Thermometer  84? 

N 

75 

W 

4.14 

N 

25 

W 

4.30 

N 

— 

4-37 

a  cliff  and  pine  hill  on 

the  left. 

N 

85 

E 

4.50 

S 

80 

E 

5-^3 

N 

30 

E 

5-39 

lost  4'. 

N 

45 

W 

5.50 

encamped  at  a  sand 
right  made  this  day  8 
perches. 

bar  on  the 
miles   104 

Saturday- 

3*!  Thermometer  52?  river  water    64°  light 

clouds. 

Set  out  a1 

6.19 

N 

45 

W 

6.34 

by  log  4^  perches. 

N 

22 

W 

7.12 

N 

40 

E 

7.22 

S 

70 

E 

8.10 

lost  25'  on  a  shoal. 

breakfast 

Set  out  at 

9.  8 

S 

70 

E 

9.42 

S 

40 

E 

9-47 

S 

10 

E 

10.00 

lost  3'. 

S 

40 

E 

10.  5 

rate  per  log  5  perches. 

S 

75 

E 

lO.II 

wind  E  S  E. 

N 

10 

E 

10.34 

lost  5'. 

N 

50 

E 
E 

10.47 
11.00 

S 

45 

E 

II.  8 

Washita  23 

iih5'stoped  by  a  shoal.  ri8o4 

S    10  E  11.23  went  ashore  &   prepared  to  ob-\  November 
serve. 
Set  out  after    1.3 1  O  ap :  do:  alt:  84?  18'.  40.  In: 
dinner.  er  :  +13'.  30''.  Lat :  32?  if,  if. 

Set  out  at        1 .3 1  after  dinner. 
S    10  E     1.38 

S   60  E     1.45  towing  the  boat  rate  5^^  perches. 
N  60  E     1.55 
N  30  E    2.  4 

N 2.17 

2.32  stop  upon  a  shoal. 
N  20  W  2.45 

N 3.  5  lost  3'.  thermometer  86°. 

N  45  W  3.25  lost  10'.  rate  per  log  4^  perches. 

S    65  W  3.57  lost  14'.  upon  a  shoal. 

N  45  W  4.  3 

N  20  E    4.20  lost  8'.  —  towing,  rate  per  log  5J^ 

perches. 
N  45   E    4.35  current  —  rate  4  perches. 

N 5.  5  lost  9'. 

N  45   E     5.15  encamped  on  the  left,  Thermome- 
ter at  8!"  p.  m.  72°  made  this  day 
II  miles  140  perches. 
Sunday  4'!'  Thermometer  54?  river  water  64?  clear. 
Set  off  at         9.18  got  aground  in  the  morning. 
N  45   E    9.26  rate  per  log  4  perches. 
N  25   E    9.36 
N  20  W  9.44 

N  45  W10.26  lost  16''  upon  a  shoal. 
S   75  W10.50  lost  3'. 
N  65  Wii.oo 

N  50  W11.29  landed  and  observed  the  O  ap : 
mer:    alt:   double   83°   t^^' '    AS"- 


24  Washita 


1804         1  In:  er:   13'.  32''.   Lat:  32?  21'. 

November  J  10". 

Set  out  at        i!'36' 

N  20  W  3.25  lost  57'  upon  a  shoal  rate  per  log 
2  perches. 
Same  course 

N  20  W  4.00  lost  12'  got  out  the  tow  line  to 

track  ;  per  log  5  Yz  perches. 
N  20  E  y2   mile    this    course    being  over 

shoals   and  rapids  could  only  be 
estimated  by  sight  made  this  day 
4  miles  233  perches. 
Monday  5'"  Thermometer  52?  river  water  62?  heavy 
fog,  had  to  unload  two  turns  of 
our  canoe  to  get  over  a  shoal. 
Set  off  at         9.55 
Last  course 

Conf*  10.  4  rate  per  log  5  perches. 

N  20  W11.15 
N  45  Wi 1. 2 1  lost  3'. 

W 1 1.32  dark  misty  and  cloudy. 

N  45  W12.00  lost  5'. 

N  45  E  12.13 
N  25   E  12.42  lost  1'. 
N  45  E     1.34  lost  10'. 
N  10  W  1.43  wind  N.W.  dined. 
Set  off  at         3.00 

N  75  W  3.12  rate  per  log  6  perches. 
S    50  W  n^.t^c^  Thermometer     68°    Sun     shines 
dimley  through  a  blackish  mist. 

W  4.  2 

N  60  W  4.25  lost  1'. 
N  30  W  4.39 
N 4.55 


Washita  25 

N35W5':8'  ri8o4 

N  15  W  5.25  encamped  on  a  sand  bar  on  the  [November 

right  made  this  day  1 1  miles  276 

perches. 
Tuesday  6*-  Thermometer  45?  river  water  64?  heavy 

fog,  wind  west. 


Set  out  at        6.32 

N  80 
S 

E    6.48  rate  per  log  s}4  perches. 
—      7.10  lost  l'. 

S  45 

N  6s 
Breakfast 

E    7.30 
E    7.40 

E    7.55 
8.57 

Contin^ 

N  65 

N35 

N45 

E    9.42  rate  per  log  4.}^  perches. 

E    9-55 
W10.28  lost  s'- 

N 

—  1 1. 13  lost  3^ 

N40 

WII.I8 

S   65 

Wi  1.30  landed  and  observed  ©  apparent 
double  altitude  82?  5'.  ^f'-  In  :  er: 

+  13^30''.  latitude  found  32?  28'. 

Dinner 

58^ 
1.30 

Cont".^ 

S   6s 
S    60 

W   1.52  rate  per  log  5  perches. 
W  2.00 

N  10 

W  2.  6 

N  15 

E    2.20 

E    2.25 

s  ss 

N  70 
N 
N  25 

E    2.47 
E    2.52 

-     '^•SS 

W  3.25  arrived   at   the   post   of  Washita. 

26  Washita 

1804         1  made  this  day  9  miles  257  perches 

Novemberj  amounting  in  the  whole  from  the 

mouth  of  Red  river  196  miles  and 
256  perches. 
Wednesday  y'-  Took  the  O  ap:  mer:  doub:  alt:  81° 
28^.00''  In:  er: +13'.  33''.5   lat- 
itude found  32?  29'.  52''.  5. 
The  place  where  the  observation 
was  made  is  about  450  feet  to  the 
south  of  the  post   where  Lieut: 
Bowman  and  his  garrison  are  sta- 
tioned, the  latitude  of  the  post  is 
therefore  32?  29'.  57". 
8*"  &  9'"  Both  cloudy  days  remained  at  the  post. 
9*•^  Thermometer  42°-72°  river  61°. 
Saturday  lo*-   Thermometer  40?  made  the  following 
observations. 

by  cal. 

var? 

r  loi'o'.  I  ?''■'.  0  ap.  dble  ^  found 

A  M  J  ^°^*''^"™^'^^'^^3°-5'-5°'^®™^6!AzS  46E  I  In:  er:  io°.9^ 

I  lo.ia.is        65.56.53  S  43  E  r+i3''.47''''.5    10.8 

I10.16.12        66.50.34  S  42  eJ  10  .8 

O  Ap :  mer :  dble :  Alt :  79?  45'.  3" 
In  :  er+  13'.  47'^5  Lat :  found  32° 

There  is  a  difference  of  I'j".  be- 
tween the  Lat :  found  this  day  and 
on  the  7'!"  I  give  the  preference  to 
the  observation  of  this  day,  because 
on  the  7'.''  some  interruption  from 
visitants  occasioned  a  moments 
inattention  and  it  is  believed  the 
Sun  might  have  dipped  a  little 
before  the  altitude  was  taken. 


Washita  27 

O  triple  contact  as  follows  J'1804 

r  ^°^"  "'"'» "  3-1-6  -j  0  ,p  J  D  J  Alt :  49°.  1 5/.  30^'.  t  November 


P  M.  <  Center  3-a-5°  ^  t  _i_     /      // 

Upper  Ibnb     3%_^6rin:er:+i3'.47-.S 


Note  the  center  contact  was  un- 
certain from  intervening  branches. 
Distances  between  the  Sun  and 
moons  nearest  limb  are  as  follows. 


dis :  0           &       C  limbs 

At  3.26''.49''''          92° 34.00 

3.33-43             9* -35-55 

»  M.  . 

3.39.56             9» -38-^5 
3  .42  .36             92.39.00 
3  .46  .   5             92  .40.00 
3.50.14             92.41.50, 

-  Index  er:  +  13''.  47''.  5. 

Triple  contacts  of  the  moons  limbs 

and  center. 

At4h 

\'.\\"  upper   limb"| 

4  • 

3  .    I     center           \  <L  ap  :  D  :  Alt :  62°  5S'.oo 

4  • 

4.52     lower  limb  J                                                            In  :  er  : 

At4  . 

8.55     upper  limb"!                                                         +i3'-47''-5- 

4  • 

10  .41     center           V  d  ap  :  Dble  :  Alt :  649  37''.45'''- 

4  ■ 

12  .24     lower   limb  J 

These  contacts  of  the  moon  are 

not  to  be  considered  as  so  perfect 
as  similar  contacts  of  the  Sun,  on 
account  of  the  pale  light  of  her 
disk  in  the  presence  of  the  Sun, 
the  illuminated  part  being  also 
but  a  small  proportion  of  the  whole 
disk,  the  following  mer  :  alt :  of 
the  moon  taken  in  the  evening  was 
very  correct  .  .  .  C  ap  :  mer  :  dble  : 
alt:  89?i7'.  2o''In:er:  +13'.  47". 
5,  these  were  taken,  because  the  (L 
moon's  alt :  could  not  be  taken  at 
the  same  instants  with  the  distances 
between  the  Sun  and  moon's  limbs 


28  Washita 

1804         "1  and  may  be  used  or  not  as  a  check 

Novemberj  at  the  pleasure  of  the  calculator. 

Distances   of  the   moons  west 
limb  from  a  arietis 

At  7^  42'.57'"  Distance  719  45^.00'''' "| 

7.51.27  71.42.15     lln:er:-i3'47>^'^ 

7  .59  -38  71  .38  -55    J 

Sunday  iV^  Thermometer  24°  At  the  post  of  Washita 
took  the  sun's  ap  :  mer :  dble  :  alt : 
79°  12'  y"    In:  er  :  +  13'.  S^^'-S 
Lat:  32°  29'3o''.5. 
Set  out  at        3^54' from  the  post  of  Washita. 

N  45  W  4.30  lost  2' ;  per  log  8  perches  per  }i 
minute. 

N  30  W  4.55  to  Baron  Bastrop's  plantation  ; 
encamped,  made  this  afternoon  3 
miles.  The  meridian  observations 
of  this  day  and  yesterday  for  the 
Lat :  being  in  my  opinion  both  as 
good  as  the  instrument  admits,  I 
take  the  mean  of  the  two  for  the 
truth,  and  as  the  distance  of  the 
post  from  the  place  of  observa- 
tion is  450  feet  North,  I  consider 
the  true  latitude  of  the  post  as 
fixed  at  32  29'  37".  8. 
Monday  12^''  Thermometer  in  air  2^°  i"  river  water 

54?  clear,  calm. 
Sett  off  at        8.26  took  in  some  fresh  beef  &c. 

N  55   E    8.35  rate  per  log  8  perches. 

N  8.39 

N  60  W  9.15  lost  24'  upon  shoals. 

N  10  W  9.20 

N  25   E    9.40 


Washita  29 

N  9!'46'Bayu  Siard  on  the  right  computed  J'1804 

2  leagues  from  the  Fort.  ]^  November 

N  70  W 1 0.1 5  river  100  yards  wide. 

N  30  W10.23  at  lol'^o'  Bayu  d'Arbonne,  enter 
a  narrow  passage  to  the  left  which 
contains  the  whole  river,  being 
shut  up  on  the  right  except  dur- 
ing freshes :  the  course  of  the  old 
river  upwards  is  east :  and  the 
new  channel  with  high  banks  is 
from  30  to  40  yards  wide. 

N  30  E  10.25 

N  60  E  10.31 
E  10.33 

S   45  E  10.45  ^^  i*^'39  return  to  the  great  river. 

N  60  E  10.55 

N  30  E  11.20 

E  1 1.50  landed  to  observe  O  mer:  ap : 
dble:  alt:  78°  28'  52''  In:  er : 
+ 13'  31''  Latitude  32°  34'  47". 


After  dinner 

set  off  at 

1.48 

Continued 

E 

^'53 

N 

2.00 

N  70  W 

2.10 

N 

2.15 

N40  E 

3-  3 

at    2.30  a   rapid  —  2.45    another 

rapid  and  shoal. 
S    70  W  3.17  lost  5'  upon  a  shoal. 
Stoped  untill  4.27  upon  a  shoal. 

N  50  W  5.30  lost  25'  encamped;  thermometer 

at  8*"  p.m.  54?  made  this  day  16 

miles  32  perches. 


30 


Washita 


1804         1  Tuesday  13'?  Thermometer  in  air  23°  in  river  water 
November  J  ^^°  —  fog  —  calm. 

Set  off  at         6^5 1 'per  log  8  perches. 
Continued 

N  50  W  6.55 

N  7.  2 

E    7.23 

N  45  E    7.40 

N  45  W  7.44 

S   85  W  8.00 

S  55  W  8.40  lost  10'.  at  8*"  10'  an  Island ;  at 
8''  1 2'  a  strong  rapid  landed  to 
breakfast. 
Set  off  at  9.42  9  computed  leagues  from  the 
post :  an  Island  on  the  right  rocks 
called  Roque  rau. 

N  9.46  rate  per  log  7  perches. 

N  45   E    9.53  wind  south. 

N  45  W10.31  river  150  yards  wide  —  banks 
about  25  feet  high. 

N  II. 10  lost    17'    on    shoals  —  at    ii*"   3' 

gravelly  rapids  and  a  house  on 
the  right.  Otter  Bayou  on  the 
left  at  the  end  of  the  course :  an 
Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bayou. 

S  70  E  11.30  lost  12'  the  river  has  a  more  spa- 
cious appearance  than  below. 

N  80  E  11.55  Two  settlements  at  the  end  of  the 
course  on  the  right  called  *  Ecor 
aux  Noyers '  30  feet  bank,  4  feet 
clear  at  high  water.  Some  Cypress 
grows  along  the  bank. 

N  30  E  12.10 

N  70  E  12.30  at  12''  26°  a  house  on  the  right. 


Washita  3 1 

N  10  E  12^.26'a.  shower  of  rain  —  landed  to  dine.  ri8o4 
Set  off  at         3.  3  Thermometer  66°.  [November 

Continued 

N  10  E    3.17  rate  per  log  8  perches. 
N  35  E    3.30 
N  15  E   3.50 

N  40  E    4.00  a  3.54  Bayu  Bartelemi   12  com- 
puted leagues  from  the  post. 
N  55  W  4. 1 1  rate  per  log  6j4  perches. 
S   75  W  4.25  lost  8'. 
N  45  W  4.27 
N  25   E    4.29 
N  65  E    4.38 
E  4.46 

N  30  E    4.51 
N  20  W  5.00 

N  60  W  5.10  Bayou  Pawpa. 
N  20  W  5.20  encamped  on  the  right,  made  this 
day  16  miles  312  perches.    At  8'' 
p.m.    Thermometer  in  air  62°. 
Wednesday  14^-^  Thermometer    in    air   44°  in   river 

water  55°  clear,  calm. 
Set  off  at         7.  6  rate  per  log  554!  perches. 
N  20  W  7.24  Bayu  Mercier  on  the  left. 
N  10  E    7.50  lost  2'. 
*N  10  W  8.12  landed  to  repair  the  rudder  irons 
&  to  breakfast. 
Set  off  10.24 

Continued 

*  On  our  return  we  landed  37  perches  below  the  end  of 
this  course  i.  e.  at  8^  Sy^'  on  the  15^''  January  1805  and 
took  the  Sun's  alt :  to  correct  the  time  of  the  watch,  at 
10^  56'  24"  a.m.  ap :  alt:  O  1.1.  66°  36'  45"  In:  er: 
+  12'  20''. 


32  Washita 

1804        1        N  10  Wiol'35Vmd  N.W. 

November]'       N  40  W 11. 19  at    11.3    *  Bayu    Buttes  '    (mount 

Creek). 
N  II. 21 

N  65  E  11.25  ^^^^  P^^  ^°g  ^  perches. 
N  11.30 

N  70  W11.40  landed  to  observe  O  ap  :  mer  :dble  : 
alt:  76°  54'  25"  I^=  er:  +  13' 
47'\5.  latitude  found 32°  50'  %".S' 


After  dinner 

Set  off  at 

1.40 

Continued 

S   70 
N  80 

W 
E 

1.47 
2.  3 

N 

2.13 

N55 
N35 

W 
W 

2.27 

2.30  lost  8';  at  3''  6'  an  Island  begins, 
main  channel  on  the  left  —  qr.  3'' 
30'  at  2^  13'  End  of  the  Island 
and  Bayu  on  the  left. 

N  10 

W 

3.40  rate  per  log  7  perches;  low  coun- 
try commences. 

N  15 

N35 

N45 
N75 

N 

E 
E 
W 
W 

3'S3 

3'S9 

4.  4  river  from  50  to  60  yards  wide. 

4-  7              _ 

4. 1 5  small  timber ;  overcup  white  oak 

along   the    banks   subject   to    be 

overflowed. 

N35 

N 

E 

4.19 

4.22 

S  70  W  4.26 
N  60  W  4.28 
N  4.29 


Washita  33 

N50  E    4!'33'  ri8o4 

N  20  W  4.35  j^  November 

N  45  W  4.39 

N  4.42 

N  45  E    4.44 

S   85  E    4.50 

N  15  E    4.53 

N  60  W  4.55 

N  80  W  4.58 

N  40  W  5.  2 
*N  40  E    5.  6 

N  80  E    5.10  Wind  west  —  river  ^S  to  40  yards 
wide. 

N  5.13 

N  30  W  5.17  Encamped  on  the  left,  made  this 
day  12  miles  303  perches. 
Thursday    15^''    Thermometer   in    air   ^3°    in   river 
water  55°  hoar  frost — some  clouds. 
Set  off  at         9.14 
Continued 

N  30  W  9.35  rate  per  log  7^  per : 

N  10  W  9.42 

N  40  W  9.50 

N  10.  3 

N  50  Wio.io 

S   70  W10.24  lost  8'. 

N  IO-53  lost  5'  a  rapid. 

N  70  E  1 1 .00  Bank  low  overflows  20  feet  per- 
pendicular. 

N  20  E  II.  4 

N  20  Wii.  7 

*  On  our  return  down  the  Washita,  on  the  14^^  January 
1805  we  observed  an  Eclipse  of  the  moon  at  this  place, 
from  whence  the  longitude  was  deduced. 


34  Washita 

1804         1        N45  Wiii-ij' 

November  J         N  30  E  11.24  No   more   long   moss    (Tilansia) 

seen  above  this. 

N  45  E  11.35  at  11"  33'  'Isle  de  Mallet'  — 
landed  to  observe  and  placed  the 
Instrument  on  the  left  shore  90 
yards  higher  than  the  point  of 
the  Island  :  O  ap  :  dble  :  mer : 
alt:  76°  5' 28''  In:  er:  +13'.  30'' 
Latitude  found  32?  59'  27''. 5. 
The  division  line  between  the 
Territory  of  Orleans  and  that  of 
Louisiana  will  traverse  the  river 
321^''  of  a  degree  north  of  the 
place  of  observation,  and  may  be 
found  at  any  time  by  following 
the  above  remarks  respecting  the 
situation  of  the  N.E.  end  of  the 
Island  of  Mallet. 
Set  off  after 
dinner  at         1.28 

N  10  W  1.46 

N35   E     1.55 

N  25  W  1.58 

N  30  W  2.10  rate  per  log  7  perches. 

N  80  W  2.17 

N  25  W  2.30 

^^  ,     ,^^     ''^^       '^  sand  beaches  (*  les  trois  bat- 

N  60  w  2.42  y  i     ,s 

^    I    tures  ). 
N  10  W  2.51  J 

W  3.13 

S    45  W  3.24  Thermometer  60°. 

W  2-33  rate  per  log  8  perches  *  Bayu  grand 

marais '  on  the  left. 


Washita                           35 

N45 
Stop 

w 

-  ._                                                                     1  November 
3-47                                                                     ^ 

N 

3-57 

N  50 

w 

4.  5 

N 

4-  7 

N  60 

E 

4.12 

N 

4-15 

N40 

W 

4.34 

N 

4.42  Cypriere  Chattelerau  on  the  right 
—  a  point  of  high  land  approaches 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  river  on 
the  same  side. 

N45 

w 

4.46 

S    80 

w 

4.56 

S  75 

w 

5-  2 

N45 

w 

5.  5  Encamped   on   the   left  —  Ther- 
mometer at  8''  p.m.  50?  extremes 
33°-6o?  made  this  day   16   miles 
42  perches. 

Friday  i( 

)*.^  Thermometer  in  air  3  8°  in  river  water  54° 

—  cloudy  —  calm. 

Set  out  al 

t 

6.58 

Continued 

N45 

W 

7.10  rate  per  log  7^  perches. 

N  10 

W 

7.16 

N45 

w 

7-^3 

N  15 

w 

7.26  a  Creek  on  the  left. 

N    5 

E 

7.35 

N45 

W 

7-39 

W 

7.40 

S    70 

W 

7-43 

S    80 

W 

7-49 

N45 

W 

7.51 

N45 

E 

7.54 

36 

Washita 

i8o4         1        .N  65 
November  J          N  25 

E    7!'.58' 
E    8.'  2 

N  10 

W  8.10 

N45 
N 

E    8.22 
8.27 

Breakfast         9.3  5 
Continued 

N 

N  6s 
S   60 

N45 
N 

9.42  rate  per  log  y}4  perches. 
E    9.45 
E    9.50 

E    9.5s 
10.  8 

N  20 

E  10.18 

N  20 

W10.24 

N45 
N 
E 

N30 
N  15 

W10.37 
10.40 

E  10.56 
Wii.io 

N  50 

W11.19  on  the  right,  'marais  de  la  Saline' 

—  a  large  lake  and  point  of  high 
land  about  a  mile  distant  —  Tulip 

N  80 

creek  on  the  right. 
W12.  2  lost  24'. 

S   70 

W12.22 

N45 

S  45 
Dinner 

W12.29 

W12.53  Great  Saline  Bayu  on  the  right. 

2.34 

Cont' 

S    45 

N  20 

W  2.39  rate  per  log  7^  perches. 
W  2.43 
W  2.45 

N  30 

N75 

E    2.57 
W3.  4 

Washita  37 

S    80  W  3!'24'  ri8o4 

S    25   E     3.34  [November 

S    60  W  3.39 

w  3.54 

N  20  E    4.00 
N  45  E    4.14 

N  20  W  4.23  the  3  pine  trees. 
N  55  W  4.46  lost  8'. 
N  4.50 

W  4.52 
S  4.54  encamped :    Thermometer   at    8*" 

p.m.  42°  extremes  38!  51?  made 
this  day  17  miles  185  perches. 
Saturday  17-  Thermometer  in  air  40?  in  river  water 
54°  fog  on  the  river,  calm,  river 
rose  1'%  inches  in  the  night. 
Set  off  at         7.19 
Course  continued 

S  7.23  rate  per  log  6  perches. 

S   75  E    7.27 
N  7.40 

W  7.42 
S  45  W  7.55 
N  45  W  8.00 
N  20  E  8.  9 
N  60  E  8.17 
N  30  W  8.18 
N  80  W  8.27 
N  20  W  8.30 
N    5  W  8.56 

W  8.58  *marais  de  Cannes'  (cane  marsh)  on 
the  right. 
Breakfast       10.  7 

S    15  W10.23  rate  per  log  7  perches. 


38  Washita 

1804         "1        S    65  Wio^42'long  leaf-pine. 
November j         N  45  W  10.49  saw  the  first  swan,  shot  by  one  of 

the  hunters. 
W10.52 
S   45  Wii.   I  pirsimmons  and  small  black  grapes. 
N  45  Wii. 18 
S    75  Wii. 25  small  cane  —  Sun   breaks   out  — 

serene. 

N  55  Wii. 30  no  long  moss  (tilandsia)  seen  since 

we  entered  the  low  alluvial  lands. 

N  11.42  landed  to   observe.     O  mer  :  ap: 

dble:  altitude  74°  37'  52''  In  :  er : 

33°  13' i6".5- 


+  i3'57''.5  latiti 

Dinner 

1.42 

Continued 

N 

1.49  rate  8  perches. 

N45 

E 

1.50 

E 

2.  5 

N 

2.  9  a  rapid. 

W 

2.21  canes  pines. 

N  70 

W 

2.39 

N45 

E 

2.52  saw  an  alligator. 

N 

3.10 

N  80 

W 

3.30  the  Eagle. 

S  45 

E 

3-3^ 

S   30 

E 

3.48  lost  10'. 

S    15 

W 

3'S^ 

S   70 

W 

3-57 

N  80 

W 

4.  4 

N  60 

W 

4.17 

S    80 

W 

4.19 

S    5S 

W 

4.29 

N  80 

W 

4.32 

N  30 

W 

4.35  sand  beaches. 

Washita  39 

N  4^4/  ri8o4 

N  70  W  4.53  I  November 

W  5.  7  Thermometer  at  S^  p.m.  44°  ex- 
tremes 4o°-5i°  made  this  day  15 
miles  308  perches. 
Sunday  18-  Thermometer  in  air  32?  in  river  water  52° 
serene  —  calm,  —  river  rises  a  little. 
Set  out  at        7.20 
Continued 

W  7.23  rate  per  log  j}4  perches. 
S    20  W  7.34 

S  80  W  7.49  lost  3'  by  the  rapid,  at  7.41  an 
Island  and  passage  round  to  the 
right,  the  old  channel  shut  up  by 
a  sand  bar ;  the  whole  river  runs 
through  the  narrow  channel  of 
about  70  feet  wide. 


N  10  E    8.  2 

N  15  W  8.  6 

N  40  W  8.20 

S    80  W  8.23 

S    35  W  8.27 

S    10  W  8.40 

N  80  W  8.48 

S   25  W  8.51 

S   45  E    9.  2 

S                9-  7  *  Cache  la  Tulipe '  (Tulipe's 

hiding 

place). 

Breakfast       10. 11 

Continued 

S               10.22  rate  per  log  j}4  perches. 

W10.34 

N  20  E  10.40 

N  15  W 1 0.44 

40  Washita 

1804        1        N  40  Wio^52' 

November  J         N  lO  Wii.  7 

W11.13 

S    25  Wi  1.20  lost  3' by  a  rapid. 

S    60  Wii. 25 

N  80  W11.30 

N  50  Wii. 4 1  landed  to   observe,    O   ap:  mer: 
dble:alt:74   i' 25''  In:er:+i3'. 
50''  latitude  found  23°  17'  33'^' 
Dinner  1.33 

S    75  W  1.46  rate  per  log  j}4  perches. 


N 

^'5S 

N  30  E 

2.  9 

N 

2.14  Bay  Morau  —  a  large  inlet  on  the 

right,  which  swells  into  a  consider- 

able lake  during  an  inundation. 

N  80  W 

2.26 

South 

2.43 

s  45  w 

2.46  large  pine  trees. 

S  65  w 

2.56 

S   15  w 

3.10 

S  50  w 

3.27  lost  14'. 

S   75  W 

4.19  hill  on  the  left  called  (*Cote  de 

hachis '). 

S   55  W 

4-30 

S   85  w 

4-32 

N  30  W 

4-34 

N 

4.39 

N35  W 

4.41 

N  60  W 

4.44 

S  30  w 

4.52 

S  70  w 

4-57 

N  70  W 

5.00 

N40  W 

5.02 

Washita 


41 


N 


5^05'encamped    Thermometer    at    8''j'i8o4 


p.m.  57°  in  air,  cloudy,    made  this  | November 
day  18  miles  75  perches. 
Monday  19,  Thermometer  in  air  54?  in  river  wa- 
ter 54?  cloudy,  calm,  river   at  a 
stand. 


rate  per  log  'jyi  perches. 


Set  off  at 

6.56 

Continued 

N 

7.00 

N60 

W 

7-15 

N35 

W 

7.18 

S   IS 

w 

7-23 

S   70 

w 

7.24 

N  70 

w 

7.26 

N  30 

w 

7-31 

N  70 

w 

7.40 

N  52 

w 

7-49 

N 

7.52 

Bayu  de  Hachis  on  the  left. 


points  of  high  land  touch  the 
river  at  various  places  —  the  val- 
ley about  a  league  broad  on  each 
side. 


N47 
N 


W 


N  70  E  7.58 
8.17 
8.25 
8.26 
S  55  W  8.37 
N  80  W  8.40 
N  50  W  8.45 
N  50  E  8.52 
N  30  E  8.53 
[o.  6 


Breakfast 


K 


N  30  E  10.15 
N  30  W10.28 
S   25  W10.42 


42 

Washita 

i8o4         1 
November  J          N  c8 

Wio^il' 

W 1 0.46 

N  15 

W10.53 

N40 

W11.08 

Wii.io 

S   25 

W11.26 

S    10 

E  11.29 

S  35 

E  11.34 

S   50 

W11.38 

W11.48 

N  20 

W11.53 

N  60 

W11.58 

N  40 

W12.  4 

N  80 

W12.  8 

S   60 

W12.16 

S  40 

W12.22 

S   55 

W12.32 

S  45 

W  I.  4  lost  20'. 

N65 

W  I. II 

N 

1.30 

Dinner 

3.24  cloudy. 

Continued 

N 

3-29 

N  50 

W  3.32 

W  3.36 

S   55 

W  3.44 

N  70 

W3.45 

N 

3-47 

N55 

W  4.00 

N 

4.  7 

N  60 

W4.15 

N  20 

W  4.20 

N  25 

E    4.30 

N  80 

w  4.34 

Washita  43 

S    80  W  4^42'  ri8o4 

N  35   W  4.45  Cabane  Champignole.  | November 

N  60  W  4.52  rain. 

N  10  W  4.55  encamped,    Thermometer    at    S"! 
p.m.  made  this  day  18  miles  120 
perches. 
Tuesday  20*1'  Thermometer  in  air  59°  in  river  water 

54°  cloudy,  calm. 
Set  off  at         6.48 

North  6.^6  rate  per  log  yj4  perches. 

West  6.58 

S   40  W  7.  4 

S   60  W  7.17 

N  55  W  7.30 

N  20  W  7.39  a  deep   creek    on  the  left   called 
Chemin  couvert. 

N  7.48 

N  50  W  7.52 

S   75  W  7.56 

S    10  W  8.  4 

S    75  W  8.13  a  rapid,  and  gravel  beach,  water 
40  yards  wide. 

N  60  W  8.20 

N  20  W  8.37  a  narrow   passage   to  the  left  60 
feet  wide  a  small  narrow  Island. 

N  45  W  8.44 

N  25  W  8.50 

N  25  E    9.  4 

N  30  W  9.20  lost  10'. 

N  55  W  9.32 
Breakfast       10.50 

S    80  W 1 1.  7  rate  per  log  y}i  perches. 

N  75  W11.14 

N  45  W11.23 


44 

Washita 

i804        1         S    80 
November  J         S    35 

Wii^27' 

W11.29 

S   28 

W11.39 

S    58 

W 1 1.48  saw  an  alligator  /  they  seldom  go 

farther  north  in  this  river. 

S  30 

W 1 1.53  Timber — birch,  maple,  holly  &c. 

S  75 

W12.  2  cloudy  and  uncertain,  did  not  go 

ashore  to  observe. 

N60 

W12.  4 

N  20 

W12.15 

N  25 

E  12.22 

S   75 

E  12.32 

N40 

E  12.36 

N  10 

W12.50 

W12.54 

S   80 

W  I.  4 

Dinner 

3.00  Thermometer  62? 

N  10 

E    3.16  ferruginous  earth. 

N45 

W  3.18 

S    50 

W  3.31 

W  2-2>(> 

N 

3-3^ 

N  50 

E    3-44 

N 

2>'SO 

N45 

W  2'S^ 

N75 

W  4.00 

S   70 

W  4.10 

S    50 

W  4.32  lost  7'. 

S   85 

W  5.  3  at  4.54  a  hill  of  pines  on  the  left; 

at  5''  an  island ;  we  passed  through 

a  small  channel  to  the  right,  made 

this    day    18    miles  308   perches, 

thermometer    at    8*"  p.m.   54°  ex- 

tremes 59°-62°. 

Washita  45 

Wednesday  2 1"  Thermometer  in  air  43?,  in  river  water  J 1804 

54°,  fog,  calm.  j  November 

Set  off  at         7^  y. 
Course  continued. 

S    85  W  7.15  rate  per  log  7  perches. 
N  35  W  7.17  Fin's  hill  a  cHfF  100  feet  perpen- 
dicular. 


N 

N  25 
N  10 
N  25 

7.44  lost  6'  by  a  rapid. 
W  7.52 

w  7.57 

E    8.19 

N35 

W  8.29 
W  8.32 

S 

S   40 

s  ss 

S    85 
Breakfast 

8.35 

E    8.43    _ 

W  8.53  river  80  to  90  yards  wide. 

W  9.  5 

10.12^  Cote   a    Ross'    (Ross'     hill    0: 

N  10 

camp). 
E  10.20 

N45 

W10.26 

S   75 
N45 

N  15 

N45 
S   45 

N45 

W10.32 
W10.35 
W 1 0.47 
E  10.55 
E  II. II 
W11.20 

N  10 

W11.26 

N35 
N 

E  11.34 

1 1.46  landed   to    observe    0   ap  :  mer 
dble:alt:72°i4'48'Mn:er:  +  i3: 
51''  Latitude  found  23°  29' 29'', 

Dinner 

1.30 

N5J 

W   1.39  rate  7  perches. 

46 

Washita 

i8o4         1 
November  J 

S   80 

W 

1^45' 

N75 

W 

1.51 

N  60 

w 

1-55 

N  85 

w 

1-59 

S  45 

w 

2.  2 

S 

2.  4 

S   40 

E 

2.12 

s 

2.15 

S   40 

W 

2.25 

N  80 

W 

^-33 

S    80 

W 

2.47 

lost  8'. 

West 

2.52 

a  creek 

to  the  left. 

N  10 

W 

2.57 

N75 

W 

3.22 

lost  7'  t 

ihermometer  72°. 

N  15 

E 

3-33 

N55 

E 

3-3S 

N  80 

E 

3-46 

N45 

W 

3-5^ 

S   82 

W 

4-  3 

N  60 

W 

4.  9 

N  52 

W 

4.14 

N  70 

W 

4.20 

'  Pointe 

-Coupee'  (a  cut 

off) 

old 

( 

channel 

in  a  continuation  ' 

with  this 

course, 

the  boat  channel 

to 

the 

right. 

N  50 

E 

4.24 

N68 

E 

4.28 

N35 

E 

4.33 

N  58 

E 

4.40 

N 

4-43 

N43 

W 

4.48 

N  15 

W 

4-51 

N  30 

E 

5.00 

N 

5-  5 

Washita  47 

N  45  W  5^  9'encamped  on  the  right:  made  18  ri8o4 

miles  2^  perches  :  thermometer  at  [November- 
8  p.m.  58!  extremes  43°-72°. 
Thursday  22-  Thermometer  in  air  40°  in  river  water 
S3-  l^ght  clouds  —  calm,  set  off  at 

7.6. 

7.15  rate  per  log  6j4  perches. 


s 

62 

W 

7-15 

W 

7.20 

N 

S3 

w 

7-36 

N 

32 

E 

7.42 

N 

7-51 

N 

45 

W 

7.58 

N 

20 

W 

8.  2 

N 

20 

E 

8.  9 

N 

25 

W 

8.12 

N 

55 

W 

8.18 

W 

8.31 

N 

45 

W 

8-33 

N 

20 

W 

8.41 

N 

40 

W 

8.45 

N 

8.53 

N 

45 

W 

8.58 

Breakfast 

] 

[o.  7 

S   80  W10.16 

N  85  W10.21 

S   70  W10.25 

S  ^'^•33  ^t  10.28  the  Cadaux  or  Cadodoquis 

path  crosses  the  river  leading  to 
the  Arcansas. 
W10.48  at  10.43  *  Ecor  a  Fabri '  (Fabri's 
cliffs)  80  to  100  feet  high  lead  said 
to  be  buried  on  the  ridge  by  Fabri 
in  the  direction  of  the  french  and 
Spanish  line. 


48 


Washita 


1804        1 

Novemberj 


N  60  W 

N40  W 
N 

N45 
S   80 

N45 
N 

N  30 

N  70 

N  25 

N 

N  65 

N  20 

N  10 

N45 

N75 
S    85 


E 
E 
E 

W 
W 
W 

E 

E 

W 

W 

W 

W 


N45  W 
N  10  W 
N30  W 
Dinner 
N 

E 
S 
S  45   E 

E 
N40  W 
N  15  W 
N45  W 

w 

S   45  W 
S    15  E 


10^52' 

10.55 

10.59 

11.  8  lost  7'  —  40  yards  wide. 
10.20 

II. 21 

11.23 
11.25 
11.31 

11.36 
11.41 

11.43 
11.45 

11.56  cloudy,  no  observation. 

12.  2 

12.17  lost  8^  at  12.15  *  petit  ecor  a  Fa- 

bri '  (small  clifF  of  Fabri) 
12.20 
12.26 
12.31 

2-34 

2.37 
2.44 

2.45  a  rapid. 

2.47 

2.50 

2.58 

3.  8 
3.10 

3.13  river  30  yards  wide  only  here,  en- 
closed by  bars  &c. 
3.16 
3.20 


Washita  49 

s  45  w  3^23'  ri8o4 

^^  .^27  [November 

S   70  W  3.28 

N  75  W  3.31 

N  20  W  3.34 

N  26  E    2. ^6  lost  9'. 

N  60  E    4.  6 

N  20  E    4.  8 

N    5  W  4.11 

N  50  W  4.15 

W  4.18  rapids. 
S    50  W  4.25      d? 
'    N  60  W  4.53  lost  18'  strong  rapids  and  shoals. 
N  10  E    5.00  encamped  made  this  day  14  miles 

317    perches    thermometer    at    8 

p.m.  54   extremes  40?  68°. 
Friday  23*^  Thermometer  in  air  48?  in  river  water  54? 

light  clouds  —  calm  :  river  on  the 

fall. 
Set  off  at         7.  4 

N  15  W  7.  8  rate  per  log  6  perches. 

W  7.11 
N  55  W  7.13 
N  25  W  7.15 

N  10  W  7.34  lost  5'.  rapids. 
N45  E    7.39 

N  7-43 

N  60  W  7.47 

W  7.53 
S   45  W  8.  2  lost  2'.  rapids. 

W  8.  5 
N  60  W  8.  8 

N  20  W  8.26  lost  2'  on  rapids. 
N  45  W  8.28  lost  i'. 


JO  Washita 


1804        1        S   45  W 
November]  Breakfast 

8^35' 

9.54  Drunkards  Islands. 

N45  W; 

10.   I 

N  15  E 

10.  5 

N  25  E 

10.12 

N45  E 
N45  W 
S 

N45  W; 
N  85  W 

10.17 

10.25  lost  5'. 
10.37  lost  5'. 
10.54  lost  5'. 
II.  0 

N45  W 
N  10  E 
N  15  W 

II.  5 

II.  9  *Cote  a  Sofrion'  (Sofrion's  hill). 

1 1 . 1 5  banks   from  9    to   1 2  feet   high  ; 

N  6s  W] 

yellowish  clay. 
[1.20  lost  4'. 

N45  W] 

[1.43  Landed  to  observe  O  ap  :   dSle : 

mer  :  alt  70°  59' 13''    In:  er  +  14' 
8''  Latitude  found  3f  41'  35''- 

Dinner 

1-43 

N45  E 

1.5 1   *  Pointe-Coupee,'  old  channel  to 
the  east. 

N 

1.54  lost  2'. 

W 

S  70  w 
N45  w 
Lost 

1.56 
1.58 
2.  6 
2.20  stop  to  cut  willows. 

N45  E 
N  15  W 

2.22 
2.30 

N  30  W 
N  10  E 
N35  E 
N  60  E 

2.43 
2.50 

2.56 

3-  7 

N 

N  45  W 

3-  9 

3.12  Thermometer  72°. 

Washita  51 


N  80  W 

3^17' 

ri8o4 

[  November 

S 

75 

W 

3-24 

S 

3S 

W 

3.37  lost  6\ 

S 

3-40 

S 

45 

w 
w 

3-45 
3-S^ 

N 

50 

w 

4.  2 

N 

50 

E 
E 

4.  5 
4-13 

N 

^5 

E 

4.17 

N 

4.30  lost  2'. 

N 

45 

E 

4.33 

N 

4.38 

N 

75 

W 

4.46  rapids. 

N 

20 

W 

5.00 

N 

5.  5  Encamped.     Made    13    i 

miles    28 

perches 

thermometer  at 

8".  p.m. 

54°. 

Saturday 

24': 

Thermometer 

in  air  482  in  river  water 

54-  light 

clouds  —  calm  - 

-  river  at 

a  stand. 

Set  off  at 

6.56 

N 

10 

W 

7.  4  rate  per  log  6  perches. 

S 

45 

w 

7.  8  Iron    ore — black    sand 

'  Auges 

d'Arclon 

(Arclon's  troughs). 

N 

25 

w 

7.36  lost  22'. 

N  60  E 

7.53  river  in  general  80  Yards  wide. 

N 

25 

E 

8.  3 

N 

70 

E 

8.  6 

S 

50 

E 

8.22  lost  2'  — 
rapid. 

-  rocky  bottom  - 

—  strong 

N 

40 

E 

8.30 

N 
Break: 

fast 

8.39 
9.49 

52  Washita 

1804        1        N  35  Wio^  o' 
November  J         N  10-3 

N  40  E  10.56  lost  30'   long  and  strong  rapids. 
N  70  E  11.20  lost  18'   ditto. 

E  11.27 
S  45  E  11.30 
S    15  E  11.39  lost  1'. 

S    45  E  11.48  lost  3'.    a  deserted  corn  patch. 
N  15  E  12.  8  cloudy,  no  observation. 
N  41  W12.18  osiers  or  hoop  willows. 
N  65  W12.25 

W12.34  Bayu  Tallien  on  the  left. 


N  60  W 

I.  0  lost  5'  on  a  rapid. 

N  55  W 

1. 14  Forks  of  the  Washita  and  Little- 

Missouri,  the  latter  coming  in  from 

the  left  in  the  direction  of  the  last 

course. 

Dinner 

3.10 

N  20  W 

3.20 

N  30  E 

3.25  lost  3'. 

N 

Ti'l^Z  lost  s'- 

N40  W 

3-37 

N  60  W 

3.41  lost  3'. 

N45  W 

3.46  lost  n'. 

N  20  W 

3.51  lost  \'    Petit-Washita  on  the  left, 

runs  into  the  Little  Missouri. 

N70  E 

3.58  lost  l'. 

N45  E 

4.18  lost  9'. 

E 

4.22  *  Belle  ance.' 

N35  E 

4.25 

N30  W 

4.47  lost  15'. 

N  25  E 

4-54 

N  60  E 

4.56 

S    85  E 

5.  7  lost  5'. 

Washita  53 

N  60  E     5h3'encamped  —  thermometer    at     8*!  J 1804 

p.m.  59°.  [November 

made  11  miles  152  perches. 
Sunday  25-  confined  all  day    to  camp  by  the  bad 
state  of  the  weather,  raining  great 
part  of  the  day.    Extremes  of  the 
thermometer  54°  to  70°  and  at  S*" 
p.m.  61° 
Monday  26*''  Thermometer  in  air  50°  in  river  water 
57°  —  clear  —  calm  —  river    risen 
3  ^  inches  during  the  night. 
Set  off  at         7.  7 

N  40  E    7.52  lost  30'  rate  per  log  6yi  perches. 

N  8.  5  white  maple. 

N  45  W  8.13  lost  1'. 

N  20  W  8.25  Bear's  head  camp. 

N  60  W  8.30 

N  80  W  8.38  cane  land. 

S  35  W  8.42 

S  75  W  8.47 

W  8.58  lost  i\ 
N  30  W  9.1 1 
N35  E    9.15 
Breakfast       10.  8 

E  10.15  lost  8^* 
N  10.20 

W10.24 
N  40  W10.39  lost  6'. 
N  10.50 

N  80  E  10.53  lost  i'. 
N  1 1 '03 

N  45  Wi  1.24  lost  2' — 'Petite-Cote'  —  anisland. 
N  11.27 

N  22  E  11.33 


54  Washita 


1804        ]^       N  73  E  11^41^ 
November  J         N  35  E  11.46 


N  85  E  11.50  landed  to  observe —  O  ap :  mer: 
dble:  alt:  69°   23'   52''  In:   er : 
+  13'   38''    Latitude   found   ;i2° 
54'   6^5. 
Dinner  1.47 

Continued 

N  85  E    1.50 
N  38  E    1.57  lost  4'. 
N  20  E    2.  3 
N  85  W  2.15 
N  70  W  2.20 

N  45  W  2.29  many  Islands. 
N  25  W  2.52  lost  i6\ 
N  70  E    3.  o 
N  25  W  3.15  lost  9'. 
N  65  W  3.28 

N  50  W  ^.22  at  3.31    *  Bayu  de  Cypre*  on  the 
left,    birch  and  osier. 

N  340 

E  3.46  lost  5'. 

N  30  E    3.15  lost  4^ 

N  55  E    4.40  lost  38\    cut  away  some  logs. 

N  20  W  4.47 

N  75  W  4.52 

S   6s  W  4.55 

S  5.   I  Encamped  —  Thermometer  at    8 

p.m.  62° — extremes  50°-68°  made 

12  miles  21  perches. 
Tuesday  27-   Thermometer  in  air  54° —  in  riverwater 

58° — cloudy  —  river  risen  above 

a  foot. 
Set  off  at        7.   I 


Washita 


55 


S   80  W 

N  70  W 
N45  W 
N  10  W 
N  20  E 
N  80  E 
N40  E 
N30  W 
N  70  W 
S   70  W 
N  50  W 
N 

N30  W 
Breakfast 

W 

S  30  w 

w 

N45  w 
N  10  W 
N45  W 
S  70  W 
S  30  w 
N  70  W 
N  40  W 
N 

N45  E 
N  25  E 
N  40  E 
N 

N45  E 
N  25  E 
N 
N  36  W 


7"?  1 1 'rate  per  log  6}i  perches. 

7.17 
7.21 

7-33 

7.38  rapids  commence. 

7.46  lost  6'. 

7-55 

8.  o 

8.  9  lost  7'  Piraugue  a  Gallien. 

8.15  lost  3'  left  the  rapids. 

8.20 

8.33 
8.48 

9-5^ 


ri8o4 

1  November 


river  rises    i}i   inch    during   the 
hour. 


lost  2'. 


9'S5 
10.10 

10.13 

10.17 

10.30 

10.32 

10.36 

10.40 

10.48 

10.52 

10.54 

II. 12 

11.29  lost  8'    a  large  Island  to  the  left 

11.30 

11-35 

11.42 

11.46 
11.52 

12.04 


cloudy  —  no  observation. 

at  1 2''   '  Cache  a  Ma9on  '  and  bayu 


56  Washita 

1804         1  on    the   right:    about     ij4    mile 

NovemberJ  N.N.W.   explored   the   banks  of 

a  creek  in  search  of  a  coal  mine 
and  found  only  some    fragments 
of  carbonated   wood ;  river  risen 
4  inches  in  2  hours. 
Dinner  2h5' 

N  60  W  3.  o  rate  per  log  6}4  perches. 

W  3.25  lost  17'. 
N  45  W  3.34 
N  3.40 

N  45  W  4.  o  lost  6'    river  150  yards  wide. 
N  70  W  4.  9 

W  4.23  lost  y\ 
N  70  W  4.32  lost  6\ 
N  45  W  4.49 
N  85  W  4.52 

N  70  W  5.  o  encamped  thermometer  @  S'^prm. 
66°  extremes  54° -71°  made  this 
day  13  miles  39  perches. 
Wednesday  28':'' Thermometer  in  air  68°  —  in  river 
water  60°  —  river  fallen  4  inches  in 
the  night  —  cloudy  —  calm, 
p       Set  off  at         7.   5 

S    65  W  7.13  rate  per  log  6^  perches. 
S    80  W  7.22 

S    65  W  7.29  *Ecor  aux  poux  de  bois.' 
N  60  W  7.37 


N 
N35  E 

7.42 

8.16  lost  22'. 

N  50  E 

8.30 

N  30  E 
N 

8.39 

8.54  lost  10'. 

8.57 

Washi' 

FA  ' 

57 

Breakfast 

10'  3 

'beautiful  pine  woods  on  the  right.  [1804 

N 

10.32 

lost  14'  — 

■  Bayu  de  I'eau  froide  on  \  November 

the  right, 

no  cypress 

to  be  seen 

about  this 

creek  on  the  margin  of 

the  river. 

W 

10.36 

S 

45 

W 

10.42 

lost  y. 

N 

75 

w 

10.46 

N 

45 

w 

10.49 

N 

II. II 

lost  11'. 

N 

40 

w 

II. 15 

lost  2'. 

N 

11.25 

lost  5'. 

N 

75 

w 

11.30 

S 

70 

w 

11.46  lost  y\ 

S 

40 

w 

11.58 

N 

75 

w 

12.  2 

cloudy  no 

observation. 

N 

45 

w 

12.  7 

N 

25 

w 

12.20 

N 

40 

w 

12.30 

N 

25 

w 

12.57 

lost  3'. 

Dinner 

3-  9 

S 

70 

w 

3.22 

lost  4'. 

N 

70 

w 

3'^S 

N 

40 

w 

3-42 

lost  5'. 

N  80  W 

3-44 

S 

45 

w 
w 

3-54 
4.  I 

lost  3'. 

N 

» 

40 

w 

4.21 

lost  7  —  al 
salt  lick) 
tant  Bayu 

:  4.7  Grand 

on  the  left  ■ 

de  Cypre 

glaise  (Big 
2  miles  dis- 
opposite  in 

the  interior. 

N 

4.25 

N 

45 

E 

4.28 

N 

5S 

E 

4.31 

58 

Washita 

i804         1                     E 
November  J         S    75  E 

4^34' — river  170  y'^  wide. 

4.44 

E 

4-54 

N45  E 

4.58 

N  10  E 

5-  4 

N20  W 

5.  8  Encamped,    made    12    miles  255 

perches,    thermometer  at  S^.  p.m. 

73°      extremes  68°  78°. 

Thursday  29 

^^  Thermometer  in  air  72°  in  river  water 

62°  —  cloudy  —  wind     south  — 

rain  ;  remained  in  camp  untill  after 

dinner. 

Got  off  at 

1.27 

N  85  W 

1.34  rate  per  log  7  perches  Saline  Bayu  ; 

about  half  a  league   north  a  salt 

spring. 

N  65  W 

1.58  lost  5'. 

N35  W 

2.12 

N  70  W 

2.25 

N40  W 

2-37 

N    5  W 

2.50 

N45  W 

3.18  lost  11'.    at  3''  *Ecor  a  chicots.' 

N 

3.33  lost  3^ 

N 

3.33  lost  3^ 

N  80  E 

3-45 

S   60  E 

3-46 

S    30  E 

3-57 

S    45  E 

4.  2  rapids. 

S    85  E 

4.   8 

N  70  E 

4.18  lost  3'. 

N30  E 

4.22  lost  2'. 

N  60  W 

4.31  lost  6' 

N  30  E 

4.37 

N  40  E 

4.42 

N  70  E 

4.49 

rapids. 


Washita                           59 

N 

5^  0'  Encamped  made  8  miles  2  perches.  [1804 

thermometer  at  8^  p.m.  52?     ex-  iNovember 

tremes  ^2°-']6°. 

Friday  30*-  Thermometer  in  air  38°  in  river  wat :  60° 

—  clear  —  calm  —  river  risen    1 9 

inches  since  last  evening. 

Set  off  at 

7-  7 

N 

7.22  rate  per  log  6  perches. 

N  80  W  7.25 

S   45 

W  7.30 

S   30 

W  7.46  lost  10'   rapids. 

S    60  W  7.49 

N75 

W  7.53  lost  2'. 

N55 

W  8.19  lost  6'. 

N  15 

W  8.26  lost  3'. 

Breakfast 

9-45 

N  10 

W10.18  lost  6'. 

N 

10.27  *  Fourche  des  Cadaux'  on  the  left 

100  yards  wide  —  a  hill  300  feet 

high. 

N  20 

E  10.32 

S    85 

E  10.40 

N  70 

E  II.  5  lost  6'. 

N40 

W 1 1.45  lost  2I^  landed  to  observe,  O  Ap: 

mer:  dble:  alt:  67°  25'  30''    In: 

er:  +13'  42''    latitude  found  34° 

II' 37-- 

Dinner 

2.  0 

N  15 

E    2.15 

N  50 

E    2.i8*Bayu    de    Roches'    on    the    left 

(rocky  Creek). 

E    2.34 

N  65 

E    2.40 

N35 

E     2.44  Encamped  —  Thermometer  at  3"! 

6o  Washita 

1804        1  57°    went  to  visit  a  saline,  made 

November  J  y  miles  28  perches. 

December  i" 

Saturday  Thermometer  in  air  32°  —  river  water  54** 
—  clear  —  calm  —  river  fallen   1 8 
inches  during  the  night. 
Set  off  at         7^  5'  *  Isle  de  roches  '  (rocky  island)  ^ 
mile  long  on  the  right. 
N  35  E    7.23  lost  10' — rate  per  log  6  perches. 
N  75  E    7.31  lost  5'. 
S   70  E    7.42  lost  6'. 
N  65  E    7.52 
N  45  E    8.  o 
N  32  E    8.10 
N  15  E    8.34  lost  13'. 
Breakfast       10.12 
N  55  E  10.18 
S   80  E  1 1. 10  lost  20'. 
N  15  E  11.25  ^ost  11'. 

N  10  W12.  5  lost  35'  on  the  rapids:  no  obser- 
vation. 
N  45  E  12.15  *Bayu    de   I'isle   de    Mellon'   on 
the  right. 
E  12.27 
Dinner  2.29 

E    2.44 
S   45  E    2.53  lost  4'. 
N  45  E    2.56 

N  2-3^  ^ost  11'  at  3*1  30'  a    saline  distant 

2  miles  to  the  left,  and  Isle  de 
mellon  on  the  right. 
N  10  W  4.37  lost  3 8'    encamped — made  7  miles 
148  perches  —  Thermometer  at  S^. 
p.m.  35°    extremes  3 2^-5  8°. 


Washita  6i 

Sunday  2^.  Thermometer  in  air  30"  in  river  water  50°  ri8o4 

clear  —  calm  —  river  fallen  4  inch.  \  December 
Set  off  at         7^35' 

N  10  W  7.44  rate  per  log  3  perches  rapids  com- 
mence. 

N  45  E    7.50 

N75  E    7.55 

S   30  E     8.  4 

S    80  E    8.13 

N  40  E     8.29 

S    80  E    8.32 

N  55  E    8.37 

N  42  E     8.40  rapids  end. 
Breakfast       10.7 

N  42  E  10.35  ^^^^  P^^  ^og  5  perches. 

N  28  E  10.51 

N  15  E  10.58 

N    8  Wii.  o 

N  12  Wii. 12 

N  10  W 1 1.43  lost  15''   rate  per  log  3  perches. 

N  20  E  11.46  rate  per  log  5  perches. 
Dinner  2.  3 

N  20  E  2.30  at  2*? 1 9'  slate  quarry  on  the  left  and 
a  Creek. 

N  55  E     2.23  ^Isle  de  Chevreuil'  (Deer  island). 

N  40  E  2.39  lost  3'  —  Free  stone  and  blue  slate 
to  the  left. 

N  5  W  3.1 1  strong  rapids  rate  per  log  3  perch- 
es —  Bayu  de  prairie  de  Cham- 
pignole  on  the  left. 

N  32  E     3.28  Thermometer  59°  — 

N  45  E    3.46 

S    85  E    3.51  lost  11',  rate  per  log  ^j4  perches. 

N  53   E    4.  7  Encamped:  —  made  6   miles   118 


62  Washita 

1804         1  perches — Thermometer  at  8^  p.m. 

December  J  38°    extremes  30°-^g°. 

Monday  3^  Thermometer  in  air  38°  in  river  water  48" 
—  clear  —  calm  —  river   fallen     8 
inches. 
setofFat         7^2' 

N  35  W  7.20  rate  per  log  5  perches. 
N  20  W  7.31 
N  10  E    8.  4  lost  8^ 

N  30  W  8.26  '  Bayu  de  I'eau  froide '  on  the  left. 
N  30  E    8.45  lost  3'. 
breakfast         9.50 

S    70  E  10.  8  rapid;  rate  3  perches: 

N  75  E  10.20 

N  10.40 

N  10  E  II.  4  lost  18'.   rate  per  log  6  perches. 

S    15  E  11.28  rapids  3  perches  per  log. 

E  1 1 .40  rate  per  log  5  perches,  landed  to 


observe  O  ap  :  mer :  dble  alt :  66° 

12' 00''    In:  er:  +  13'  48^^.5  lati- 

tude found  34°  21'  25^.5. 

Dinner 

1.45 

N35  E 

2.  6  rate  per  log  3  perches. 

N 

2.15  rate  per  log  5  perches. 

N  25  E 

2.42   lost  22^ 

N  60  E 

2.48  rate  per  log  3  perches. 

N40  E 

^•S3 

N  10  W 

3.  8  lost  5'    rate  per  log  5  perches. 

N  20  E 

3-^3 

E 

3.28  lost  13'. 

N45  E 

3-3^ 

N  80  E 

2-25  r^te  per  log  3  perches. 

N45  E 

3.45  rate  per  log  4  perches. 

N 

4.   I  at    3.57    rock    promontory,    hard 

Washita  63 

flint,  on  the  right  with  masses  in  ^1804 
the  river.  [December 

N  30  W  4h8'arrived  at   the   *Chuttes*    passed 
over  and  encamped, 
river  200  yards  wide, 
made    7    miles     218     perches  — 
Thermometer  at  8''  p.m.  44°    ex- 
tremes 38°-59? 
Tuesday  4'!"  Thermometer  in  air  ^6°  in  river  water 
48°  clear  —  calm  —  river  fallen  2 
inches, 
set  oflfat         7.21 

N  45  W   7.34  rate  per  log  4  perches. 

N25  W  8.15  at  8''  passed  a  ledge  of  hard  free 
stone  rocks  —  rocky  bottom,  high 
rocky  hill  in  front  covered  by  pines 
a  fine  situation  350  feet  high. 

N  60  W  8.25 

W  8.33 

Breakfast         9.59 

Wio.  9  rate  per  log  2  perches. 

N  45  Wio. 1 2  rate  per  log  4  perches. 

N  20  W10.15 

N  20  E  10.24  at  10.20  bald  hill  on  the  left  —  ar- 
rive at  the  rapids. 

N  50  E  j4    rnile :    a    very    violent    rapid, 

landed   to    observe    O    ap :   mer : 
dble  alt:    65°  47'  4''  In:  er:    + 
13'  44"     latitude  found    34°  25' 
48''. 
Dinner  1.45  rocky  pine  hill   300  feet  high  on 

the  right. 

N  20  W   1,52  rate  5  perches. 

N  60  W   1.55 


64  Washita 

1804         1         N  85  W  2^  3 'rate  per  log  6  perches:  hills  of  blue 
DecemberJ  slate  (or  shistus)  to  the  left. 

S    80  W  2.17 
N  40  W  72  perches  —  violent   rapid,   long 

detention. 
S    80  W  112  perches  —  encamped  —  *  Bayu 

de  la  Saline '  on  the  right,  made 
4  miles  164  perches — Thermome- 
ter at  S^  p.m.  2^°    extremes  36°- 

Wednesday  5\^  Thermometer    in    air    23?   in    river 
water  47° —  serene  —  calm — river 
fallen  2  inches. 
Set  off  at         7.25 

S    70  W  8.  2  lost  25' — rocky  hills  on  both  sides 

—  rate  per  log  5  perches. 
S    55  W  30    perches  —  a   violent   rapid  or 

cascade  4^  feet  fall  in  80  yards. 
Breakfast       10.57 

S    70  W I  I.I  5  rate  per  log  6  perches. 

W11.20 
N  50  W11.29 

N  40  W  144    perches,  a    strong    rapid. — 

rocky  hills  on  the  right  —  high 
freshes  25  feet  perpendicular  above 
the  present  level  of  the  river,  at 
the  end  of  this  reach  on  the  right 
a  creek,  called  *  Fourche  a  Tigre  ' 
(Tiger  Creek)  good  land  upon  this 
Creek. 
Set  off  at  1.45 

S    80  W   1.55  rate  per  log  4  perches. 
Dinner  3-50 

W3-55 


Washita  65 

N  70  W  4^23 'rate  per  log  3  perches.  ri8o4 

N  45  W  %  mile.  1  December 

Set  off  at         4.54 

N  45  W  4.59  rate  per  log  3  perches. 

S  45  W  5.  I  Encamped  made  only  3  miles 
128  perches.  Thermometer  at  8^ 
p.m.  38?  extremes  23°-56? 
Thursday  6*?  Thermometer  in  air  45?  in  river  water 
48?  cloudy  —  wind  S.W.  light — 
river  fallen  2  inches. 
Set  off  at         7.40 

S   45  W  7.52  rate  4  perches. 

S  30  W  8.  7  hills  to  the  left,  good  land  to  the 
right. 

S    55  W  8.20  lost  4'. 

N  80  W  8.37  lost  12'. 

N  30  W  8.52  lost  1'. 
Breakfast 

N  20  W  ^  a  Mile  :  a  great  rapid,  very  pre- 

cipitous :  3  hours  in  getting  over. 
Set  off  at         1.8 

S  75  W  1. 1 6  rate  per  log  5  perches,  arrived  at 
Ellis'  camp  a  little  below  the 
*  Fourche  a  Calfat ',  encamped 
made  2  miles  and  32  perches, 
thermometer  at  8*"  p.m.  56?  ex- 
tremes 45°- 67°. 

S    25  W  the   course   up  the  river,  Calfat's 

mouth  yi  a  mile  upon  the  left. 

AT    ELLIS    CAMP. 

Friday  7-  Thermometer  in  air  38?  in  river  water  47? 
cloudy,  wind  N.W.  river  risen  4 


66 


Hot  Springs 


1804       1 

Decemberj 


inches.  Took  the  Suns  ap  :  mer : 
dblealt:  64°  59'  47''  Inter:  + 
14'  5'^   latitude  found  34°  27'  31'' 


Thermometer  at  3' 
p.m.  24? 


p.m.  50?  at  8' 


Saturday  8*''  At  Ellis'  Camp.  Thermometer  before 
sunrise  10°  —  river  water  43°  — 
very  serene  —  light  wind  N.W. 
river  risen  4  inches.  Took  the 
Sun's  meridian  ap  :  dble  alt  64° 
46' 58''  In:er:+i4' 19''  latitude 
found  34°  27'  27''  being  a  differ- 
ence of  4''  from  the  result  of  yes- 
terday :  if  we  should  not  make  any 
more  observations  here  for  the  lati- 
tude it  may  be  considered  as  fixed 
at34°  27' 29''.  Thermometer  at  3^ 
p.m.  47?  at  8^  26? 


HOT    SPRINGS. 

Having  determined  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and 
longitude  of  this  place  with  all  due  care  and  attention, 
the  following  series  of  observations  was  Instituted  for 
the  latitude,  using  alternately  the  face  of  the  Circle 
of  reflection  to  the  east  and  to  the  west,  and  reading 
off  the  angle  from  the  three  arms  of  the  Index;  but 
finding  the  Index  error  lyable  to  change  daily,  I  found 
it  preferable  to  calculate  each  days  latitude  independ- 
ently by  itself,  to  that  of  taking  the  means  of  several 
days  altitudes,  more  especially  as  we  were  approach- 
ing the  Solstice ;  but  I  have  preserved  the  results  of 
the  same  face  of  the  Instrument  as  one  series,  and 
taken  the  mean  of  the  two  series  for  the  true  Latitude. 


Hot  Springs 


67 


Face  of  the  Circle  to  the  East. 

DecL  IS***  :  Ap  :  mer  : 

dble  alt :  O  lower  limb.  1"  Index  63-35'-  <:/'  In  :  er  :  +15^-48'''' 
xd  D?.      63-34-30     .      .     .    16-13 


Latitude 


ri8o4 
1  December 


Means      63-34  -45 


16-  o.5-34°3o-s6.''8 


17'.. 


»S'. 


27 


3d  Index  under  the  handle  could 
not  apply  the   Microscope. 
l«  Index  63-25 -10     .      .     .     15-48 


ad  Do      63-24  -40 
Means     63-24-55 


ist  Index  63-23  -50 
2  d  Do  20 


Means     63-23  -35 


1  St  Index  63-34  -50 

2  d  Do  20 


Means     63-34  -35 


16  -13 

16  -  0.5   34-30  -58.   X 


15  -26.6 
15  -51.6 

15 -39-1    34-30-58-75 


13-33.6 
H-  3-6 
13-48.6  34-30-54 


Mean  Latitude  of  the  above  34-30  -56.94 


Face  of  the  Circle  to  the  West. 


1 6t^  Ap  :  mer  :  dble 

alt :  0  lower  limb     ist  Index  64?  i''-2o''' 
2  d  Do                     3  7 
3 .'}  Do                    20 

[n  :er 

-16^-11.2^' 

42.2 
12.2 

Means     64-  1  -26 

16  -21.9    - 

-34°3i  -  4 

241'!     ....     ist  Index  63-51  -50     . 

2d  Do             52  -20     .      . 
3d  Do            51  -50     .      . 

Means     63-52  -  0     .      . 

15  -41.4 
16-13.4 
15  -48.4 

15  -54-4  - 

-34-31  -  0 

26'^     ....     ist  Index  63-58 -30 
24  Dp           59  -00 
3d  Do            58-32 

Means     63-58  -41 

series 
do 

15-28.5 
15  -48.5 
15-28.5 

IS  -35-2 

—34-31  -  4.  2 

Mean  Lat.  from  ye  2d 
Mean  Dp    from  ye  ist 

34-31  -  2.75 
34-30-56.94 

Cabin  at  the  hot  springs  true  Latitude 


34-30  -59.82 

Note  the  Index  error  was  every  day  taken  from  a 
double  contact  of  the  Sun  with  his  image  immediately 
after  the  observation :  When  the  error  was  additive 


68  Hot  Springs 

1804  \  it  was  found  by  subtracting  the  O  diameter  from  the 
December  J  greater  contact  and  when  subtractive  the  lesser  con- 
tact was  subtracted  from  the  diameter,  but  in  prac- 
tize the  greater  or  lesser  contact  was  added  to  the 
ap  :  dole  alt  :  to  save  trouble,  as  explained  in  the 
beginning. 

Courses  taken  from  the  hill  west  of  the  hot  springs 
on  the  13'"   of  December  1804  with  computed  dis- 
tances. 
i*.^  Station. 

N  54  E  ^  mile  to  the  Cabin. 

S    61    E  6  miles  to  the  river  Camp. 

S    2^   E6d"to  the  mouth  of  Hot  spring  fork. 

S    18   E  6  do  to  the  mouth  of  Luke  fork  (west 

side  of  the  river  Washita. 
S    10  W  9  do  . .  to  .  .  do   of  Mont-cerne  (west 

side)  — 
S    16^  W  1 1  do  to  the  top  of  Mont-cerne. 
S    76   W"ii/^  mile   to    the    Source    of    the    Hot 

spring  creek. 
S    76   E  3  miles  to  a  hill  in  the  fork  of  Calfat 

creek. 
N  32    E  Course  of  the  ridge  looking  back. 
S    60  W  to  2^  station  being  about  a  mile  in  a  di- 
rect   line    making    a   Cord  to   the 
arched  form  of  the  ridge. —  Courses 
from  2*^  Station. 
S    II    W  to  Mount-Cerne. 
N  64   W  to  the  passage  of  the  river  between  the 

hills  about  12  miles  distant. 
S3      W  to  the  mouth  of  Bayu-Mont-cerne :   j4 
mile  S.E.  a  great  rapid  or  Cascade 
below  the   mouth  of  Bayu   Mont 
cerne. 


Hot  Springs 


69 


S   48   E  to  the  mouth  of  Hot-spring  creek. 
S    72   E  to  the  River  Camp. 
N  50  miles,  ridge  of  hills  of  the  Arcansa. 

S.E.  50  miles  a  level  of  great  extent,  supposed 

to    be   the   prairies    of  the    Red- 
river. 
Sunday  16  Took  the  Sun's  magnetic  azimuth  be- 
fore and  after  noon  with  the  same  altitude. 

A.m.  at  9''-  50'-! 9''  O  lower  limb  dble  alt:  47° 

30'. 

mag  :  az  :  S  42°  20'  E 
d°.  S  2$°  40   W 

difference       1 6-  40 
Var.  E>^dif-8-20 


1804 
December 


p.m.  time  missed 


Correction  for  change  of  declination.  +  .  .7'' 
Equal  altitudes  O  ap :  dble  alt :  54°  27'   In  :  er :  + 

Contact  upper  limb  at  10''  1 8^-59' 
Center  21  -^6    1-A.M. 

lower  limb  24  -59 

lower  Hmb  at     1-42  -12 
Center  1-45  -15    !-P.M. 

upper  limb        1-48  -12 
Took  the  following  distances  of  the  D's  east  limb 
from  a  Arietis. 


Times       Distances 


I  oh 

31' 

so" 

55° 

iW 

20" 

loh 

39' 

11" 

55° 

41/ 

zo" 

lOh 

47' 

12" 

55° 

44' 

50" 

10 

n 

57 

55 

19 

10 

10 

4J 

53 

55 

41 

40 

10 

SO 

12 

55 

45 

55 

10 

" 

46 

55 

40 

10 

10 

44 

49 

55 

43 

45 

IC 

53 

48 

55 

47 

20 

Index  error 
—  16'  16" 


The  above  may  be  commodiously  divided  into  3 
Sets  or  otherwise  at  the  pleasure  of  the  calculator. 


A.M.  Watch  supposed 
to  have  gained  45'. 


70  Hot  Springs 

1804        1  Monday  17^^ 

December/  Equal  Altitudes 

O  ap  :  dblc  alt :  45°  49/.  o     '''  In  :  err  :  +  1 5'  48''''  f  Magnetic  az:  S  44"  3c/  E 

Upper  limb  at  9b  ^'.$6^^^  "1  1  with  the  Sun's  lower  limb 

Center  9.47.12  }•  A.M.  La.M. 

Lower  limb  9  .49  .30         J 

Lower  limb  2  .27  .57^     "1 

Center  2.30.13  >-P.M. 

Upper  limb  2  .32  .31         J 

These  equal  altitudes  together  with  those  of  the 
preceeding  day  will  correct  the  watch  and  ascertain 
her  rate  of  going,  from  which  the  apparent  times  of 
the  Lunar  distances  will  be  precisely  known. 

ay  23  £q^^j  Altitudes 

Oap  :  dSle  alt :  4. f  4.2^1  s"  In  :  err  :  +  i^'ij''. 
Upper  limb  at  10''  8'  1' 
Center  10. 10. 13 

Lower  limb       10.12.25 
The  contacts  P.M.  lost   by  the  intervention  of 
clouds. 

Altitudes  of  the  Sun's  lower  limb  with  Magnet : 
azim : 

At  io''24'i2'' Alt:  46°3i'  5''  Azim:  S  43°E. 
10.28.57  47.35.40  S  42  E. 

Ind  :  err  :+  15.27. 

Monday  24'.'' 

Equal  Altitudes 

O  ap:dble  alt :  43*32' 47''      Ind  :  err  :+ I5'4i''6 

Upper  limb  at     io''i2' 33^' 

Center  10  14  43 

Lower  limb  10  16    55 

Clouds  intervened  in  the  afternoon 

Wednesday  26'?' 

Set  the  watch  back  one  hour  to  correspond  nearly 

with  the  present  time,   no  alteration  being  made   in 

minutes  &  seconds. 


U.  M. 


Hot  Springs  71 

Equal  Altitudes  J 1804 

O  ap  :  dble  alt:  32*43'.2  5''     Ind  :  err  :  +  15' 27"     |December 
Upper  limb  at     8^  40  .  51^' 

A.M. 


Center  8  .41  .^6^4 

Lower  limb  8  .43  .45 

Clouds  intervened  in  the  afternoon. 
The  last  observations  having  been  made  when  the 
Sun  was  barely  clear  of  the  vapor  of  the  hot  springs, 
I  give  the  preference  to  the  following  observation 
made  for  the  Correction  of  the  Chronometer  &  for 
ascertaining  the  magnetic  variation. 

At  9^  6'  50"  ap  :  dble  alt :  O  low!  limb  39°  16' 40'' 
Magnet :  azim  :  S  49°  E  Ind  :  err  :  +  1 5'. 27''. 

Lunar  observations 
on  the  astronomical   25""  Decem'  took  the  following 
distances  of  the  O  and  D's  limbs 

Times  Distances  Dble  alt  Q  lowr.  limb  by  Dor.  Hunter 

At  22h   t,'.'Lf)"  s8°i4^.c/'  In  :  er  :-i5'' 27^'' 

22.    8  .    5  58.13  .0 

22.11  .10  58.12.0 53057^.30''' Ind  :  err  : -i''22''''. 5 

22.19  •   °  58.10  .0 55-2^7  -lo 

22.22  .5  58.   9  .0 

22.25  .0  58.   8  .0 

22.39  -7  5^-4  -o 

22.42  .  o  58.   3  .0 

22.44.35  58.   2  .0 59.12.10 

22.48  .40  58.   I  .0 59-43  -15 

22.54  .37  57-59  -o 60.25  -^o 

22.57  .47  57.58  .0 60.46  .20 

Survey  of  the  hot-spring  Hill. 

i^t  Station  or  place  of  Commencement  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Creek  opposite  to  the  first  or  highest 
mass  of  Calcareous  matter ;  Courses  taken  at  this 
Station  :  N  40°  E  up  the  Valley  adjoining  the  hot- 
spring  hill ;  and  N  1 5°  W  the  course  of  the  Creek 
upwards  :  Thence 


72  Hot  Springs 

1804        1       S  20°  E    18  perches  to  the  bank  of  the  Creek  on 
Decemberj  the  same  side. 

At  8  per :  opposite  to  the  middle  of 
the  Natural  hot-bed  over  the  Creek, 
a  small  hot-spring  at  its  commence- 
ment. At  14  per  :  a  hot-spring  N?  3 
opposite  side  of  the  Creek. 

S  25  W  14  per :  to  the  hot-spring  N?4  six  feet  to 
the  left  in  the  side  of  the  bank  of  the 
Creek.  At  2  per :  hot-spring  N?  i 
opposite  side  of  the  Creek:  at  12 
per :  hot-spring  N?  2.  over  the  Creek 
distant  4  perches. 

S     3   E    34  per  :  nearly  parallel  to  the  Creek. 

At  7  per :  the  Center  of  the  Cabin 
on  the  right  hand,  and  spring  N?  5  in 
the  gravel  over  the  Creek  :  at  20  per  : 
several  small  springs  over  the  Creek  : 
at  22  per:  the  lowest  hot-spring  N? 
6.  —  All  the  forgoing  Courses  have 
been  nearly  parallel  to  the  Creek,  the 
continuation  of  which  is  S  13°  E. 

S  42  E  20  per  :  immediately  cross  the  Creek,  and 
at  4  per :  the  lowest  calcareous  mass. 

N  60  E  106  per :  At  60  per :  the  valley  on  the 
right  distant  20  per  : 

S  66  E  30  per :  to  the  Valley  base  of  the  hill : 
at  20  p.  yellowish  schistus. 

N  60  E  60  per:  N.E.  corner  of  the  base  of  the 
hill. 

N  23  E  1 74  per :  —  60  per  :  to  the  left  the  ridge 
is  parallel  to  the  Course. 

N  16  E  70  per:  to  a  rocky  ridge  perpendicular 
to  the  course  and  precipice  looking 


Hot  Springs  73 

down  into  a  branch  of  the  Cafatrun-  [1804 
ning  to  the  right;  the  Creek  above  [December 
winds  into  the  direction  of  the  last 
course,  the  ridge  to   the  left  divides 
the  Calfat  from  the  hot-spring  Creek. 

N  44  W  "30  per 

S  84  W  72  per  :  to  the  top  of  a  high  ridge  very- 
narrow,  connected  with  the  hot-spring 
hill. 

S  45  W  60  per :  descending  the  Valley  :  The  top 
of  the  hill  west  of  the  Camp  is  in  the 
direction  of  the  course  :  at  right  angles 
on  the  left  at  the  end  of  the  course 
1^  mile  distant  is  a  gap  or  low  place 
in  the  ridge  contiguous  to  the  hot- 
spring  hill. 

S  3 1  W  80  per  :  down  the  valley  —  veins  of  the 
flinty  rock  nearly  in  the  direction  of 
the  course  and  fissures  at  right  an- 
gles: Flint  and  hard  siliceous  stone 
above,  Schistus  at  the  base  —  and 
from  thence  to  the  place  of  begin- 
ning nearly  in  the  course  of  the  Val- 
ley. 

Courses  and  distances  from  Hot-spring  Camp  to 
the  river  Camp,  commencing  at  the  Cabin  —  Thence 

S  I5°E  788  per:  — to  the  il'  Knoll  122  p.  — to 
the  I'J  branch  162  p.  to  the  2**  branch 
282  p. —  to  3:^  d°  322  p.  —  to  4'.''  d? 
502  p.  —  to  crossing  of  hot-spring 
creek  614  per :  and  at  the  end  of  the 
course  a  branch. 

N  80  E    70  per  :  to  the  top  of  a  ridge. 


74  Hot  Springs 

1804         1       S    69  E  184  per:  to  the  2"^  branch. 

December  J        S    25  E  160  per: 

S    68  E    80  p.  to  the  Big  lick. 

N  55  E  200  p.   to    the    2*^  lick  —  at    160    p.    3*! 

branch. 

N  82  E  534  p.  to  the  5'.''  branch  —  at  168  p.  the 

4^  branch. 

S    84  E  122  p.  to  the  main  Calfat  —  at  56  p.  cross 

the   last    branch,    the    course  of  the 

Calfat  is  S  38°  E. 

S    74  E  178  p.  to  the  3"  Hck. 

S    54  E  304  p.  to   the  river  Camp.  —  at  94  p.  a 

branch. 

1805     \  2620  perches,  equal  to  8  miles  60  perches. 

January!  Saturday  5*>  At  Ellis'  Camp. 

Equal  Altitudes. 

ap:d6le  Alt:  43°  18' 30''. 

Upper  limb  at   q*"  4.7'  10' 

^'^^  ^-  ^^  I   iv.ivi.    ina:  err 

Center  9.  45.  12 

Lower  limb         9.  47.  19 

Lower  limb  at  2.  cq.  22 

_  ■'^  I   r.ivi.    ina:  err 

Center  3.  i.   27 

Upper  limb  ^     3-  3-  33 

As  the  same  instrument  was  to  be  used  for  various 
purposes  on  the  same  day,  the  Index  set  for  equal 
altitudes  could  not  be  screwed  up  untill  the  afternoon 
observation,  and  as  the  Index  error  was  liable  to 
change  in  the  course  of  the  day  particularly  when 
used  much  in  the  sun-shine,  it  is  accordingly  noted 
in  the  last  example  ;  the  slight  error  it  might  occasion, 
would  not  materially  affect  the  result. 

Took  the  following  alt :  and  azim  :  to  ascertain 
the  magnetic  variation  : 

At   to!"   3'  42''  a.m.   O   ap  :  dble    alt  :  low.'  limb 


Hot  Springs  y^ 

47°  2i'  lo''  Magnet:  Azim  :  846°  Ind  :  err  :  +  13'  [1805 
15''.  [January 

At  noon  the  ap :  dble  alt :  O  lowf  limb  was  65° 
8' 40''    Ind:  err: +13'  g'\ 

Lat:  deduced  34°  27'  28''.8  which  is  within  o''.2 
of  the  mean  of  the  former  two  observations. 

Distances  taken  between  the  O  and  3)  limbs 
At  2"  22' 45''  Distance  54°  i'  o''   Ind  :  err:  +  13'  5" 

2. 25. 50     .     .     .     54.  2.  o 

2.28.45     •     •     •     54.3-0 

Distances  taken  of  the  D  's  west  limb  from  Alde- 
baran 

At  7b  i'.  56''''  Distance  84°  52'.  (/■'  In  :  er  :  +  13'  5'^  Alt :  dble  ^'s  lowf  limb 

64°  if  3c/' 
7.  4.    o  84.  51.    o  In :   er : —    i  .20 

7.    6.    6  84.  50.    o  by  Do'  Hunter 

January  14-  Monday.  At  a  point  which  we  passed 
in  ascending  Novf  14'?  —  N  40°  E  5''  6'.  observed 
an  Eclipse  of  the  Moon. 

At  i2''4o'  p'  watch.    Beginning  of  the  Eclipse  — 

uncertain. 
13.37  Beginning  of  total  darkness 

—  good  observation. 

Took  the  following  altitudes  of  the  Sun  to  correct 
the  Chronometer  and  ascertain  the  apparent  time  of 
the  Eclipse. 
15'?  Tuesday 

At  a  point  on  the  river  bank  which  corresponds 
to  the  Courses  and  distances  of  our  voyage  upwards 
viz  Nov^  14"^  N  10°  W  8"?  8^';  took  the  Sun's  alt. 
viz  at  10^  56'  24''.  ap  :  dble  alt  lowf  limb  66°  ^6'  45'' 
Ind:  err  :  +  12'  20". 
Thursday  17"' 

At  the  Post  of  Washita,  the  same  station  where 


76  Hot  Springs 

1805     1  we  observed  on  our  way  up,  Took  the  Sun's  altitude 
January/  yi^ . 

At  8"  S3'  1"  ap :  dble  alt :  O  low.  limb  36°  44'  45'' 
In  r  er:  +  \i'  30''. 

From  the  above  observations  the  apparent  time  of 
the  Eclipse  may  be  found  &  the  whole  refered  to  the 
Meridian  of  the  Post  of  the  Washita. 


tEl)e  KitjerstiOe  ^tt&& :  CambriUge 


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